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Portugal's
Alentejo
Part
4: Quinta do Mouro
Quinta do Mouro is one of the Alentejo’s leading
estates, but rather than adopt a new world approach, Mouro does things
in a distinctly old world manner. The well situated vineyards have a
natural, almost organic feel to them (see above), and no irrigation is used –
this is rare for the hot Alentejo. Like many great Bordeaux properties, the centre
of this estate is a large Chateau. It’s a grand old house that was
purchased by the Louro family some 30 years ago. Winemaking didn’t
start here until the early 1990s, and the first commercial release of
Mouro was
in 1994. Vineyards are largely planted around house, and the original 6 hectares
has now grown to 22 (including some vines around Estremoz).
 Luis Louro showed us around. He’s son of the owner
and founder, Miguel, and has studied in Lisbon. Since 1998 Luis Duarte
has been consulting here (we met him earlier in the series at
Malhadinha Nova). The winery occupies the bottom floor of the ‘Z’
shaped house. Now for the details. Everything is harvested by hand
into 20 kg boxes. During vintage the courtyard area is covered over
and houses the destemmer and some open fermenters. Grapes are crushed
by feet for two days and then go into the winery. The cap is pushed
down and pumped over three times a day. Most vintages, some 70 tons are
crushed. A mixture of French and Portuguese oak is used. But, of
course, while the methods are important, we’re interested in the
results. And they're pretty impressive.
Zagalos 2001
Zagalos is the given name of the second wine. A blend of Trincadeira (50%) with lesser amounts of Cabernet,
Touriga Nacional and Alicante. Luis points out that Trincadeira is
problematic in Estremoz, showing lots of vigour in the vineyard and
little body or tannin in the winery. This wine has a fresh, bright
nose with some juicy herbal character. Dense, savoury, spicy palate
with a dusty savoury edge. I like this a lot: savoury and satisfying
with a lot of weight. Very good/excellent 90/100
 Zagalos 2002
A difficult year. It started raining on September 12th and
didn’t stop for ages. Mouro had 80% of their grapes in the winery at
that stage. This wine has a dark, fresh fruity nose which is quite
savoury. The palate is full with dense dark fruits and some richness.
An expressive wine with an earthy edge, and nice balance between fruit
and structure. Very good/excellent 90/100
Zagalos 2003
Ripe full red fruits nose with a herby edge. Fruity, rounded
palate is juicy but a little simple at the moment. Very good+ 88/100
Quinta do Mouro 1998
Mostly Aragonêz and Alicante. 1998 was the worst Alentejo vintage
in the last 50 years, with lots of rotten grapes. Much less was made
this year. Perfumed, evolved earthy, herby nose. The palate is open
and rounded with some evolution. Nice red fruits to this midweight,
savoury wine that should be drunk soon. Very good+ 89/100
Quinta do Mouro 1999
This was aged in 100% Portuguese oak, and when it was young Luis
says that no one liked it because of its hard tannins. Luis clearly
likes Portuguese oak, which is quite different to French and American.
The wine has a dark,
complex spicy nose with hints of tar, wood and herbs. It’s still
quite tight. The palate is savoury, firm and complex with a tarry
spicy profile and red and black fruits. Still firm and structured with
some medicinal notes. A big, dark wine that’s slightly unusual but
shows lots of potential. Very good/excellent 92/100
 Quinta do Mouro 2001
More French oak than Portuguese for this one. A little shy on the
nose, although there are minerally, herby and medicinal hints. The
palate shows appealing red fruits, juicy and vibrant but buttressed
with a dark tarry edge. Nice balance between the fruit and the
structure. Very good/excellent 92/100
Quinta do Mouro 2002
Dark spicy nose of intense red and black fruits. Savoury dense and
full; hints of chocolate. The palate is concentrated and full with
lovely spicy savouriness. Dense, structure and quite elegant. A lovely
wine and you'd be hard pressed to tell this was a tricky vintage. Very
good/excellent 94/100
Quinta do Mouro 2003
Dark, rich and full on the nose with lots of pure fruit. The
palate shows medium concentration with supple structured fruit.
Youthful, tight and well balanced. Very good/excellent 91/100
Quinta do Mouro Touriga Nacional 2003
Aged in new French, Hungarian and Portuguese new oak. 3000 litres
made. Wonderful open Touriga nose of ripe red and black fruits with a
lifted herby edge. Open, concentrated palate is juicy and rich,
showing vivid fruit and well integrated oak. Big and bold. Very
good/excellent 93/100
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