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Portugal's
Alentejo
Part
3: Cortes de Cima
 Along
the side of one of the vineyards at Cortes de Cima is a long, rather
bumpy looking strip, perhaps 20 feet wide - it looks like a couple of
vine rows are missing. But this is proprietor Hans Jorgensen's landing
strip. Inside a shed at the side of the winery there's a shiny,
attractive light aeroplane. This used to be a tool of the trade when
Hans worked running sugar plantations in the far east; now I get the
impression it is a rather nice toy. Still, he's had rather scared
employees hanging out of the side door taking photographs of the vines
below in his own take on precision viticulture via airborne
monitoring.
Cortes
de Cima is one of Portugal's two leading 'new world' wineries
(the other being Esporão), and its very successful wines with
good international distribution have helped put this region on
the map. The new world approach begins in the vineyard, where
Richard Smart (an Australian who is one of the best known
viticultural experts) has been consulting. The vines are
trellised here with the Smart-Dyson system (illustrated right).
This involves a tall vertical canopy with a special moveable
system of catch wires. About half way through the growing
season, while things are pretty vigorous, the guidewires are
used to catch some of the sprawling shoots and direct them
downwards. The result is a large green wall - the aim behind
this system is to get vigorous vines (usually a bad thing for
quality) in balance and produce relatively high yields of good
quality grapes. The
wines are made in an unashamedly modern mould, and have proved
tremendously successful with their accessible, forward fruit.
Because of their success, the prices for the top wines are very
high in Portugal, which tends to make them look a little
expensive in the UK when compared with their peers. Still, you
can't blame a winery for their prices: if they sell
substantially below market value, then someone else gets to make
the margin, which isn't really fare. I
especially liked the Syrah 2002, The Touriga Nacional 2003 and
the Homage to Hans Christian Andersen, which I thought were
superb. The Chaminé, the cheapest wine in the line-up, is hard
to resist with its joyful fruit.
Cortes de Cima Chaminé 2003
Aragonez, Syrah and Touriga Nacional fermented and aged in
stainless steel. Lovely forward fresh berry fruit on the nose,
which is vivid and quite bright. The palate is juicy, rich and
fruity, but with some nice chewy structure also. This is
fantastically fresh and vivid. Very good+ 89/100
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Vigorous vines on a high trellis |
Hans Jorgensen demonstrates the Smart-Dyson system, catching the
foliage with moveable guidewires and directing it downwards. |
The result: shots grow down as well as up, creating a wall of
vines. |
Cortes de Cima Aragonez 2002
Tangy earthy edge to the red fruits on the nose. The palate is
savoury and chewy with nice structure. Quite a dense, chewy, earthy
sort of wine that’s best with food. Very good+ 88/100
Cortes de Cima Trincadeira 2003
Fresh red berry fruits dominate the nose, which is ripe and
rounded with a subtle tarry edge. Vivid acidity on the palate which
has a slightly spritzy edge to it. An unusual wine, but quite nice,
still. Very good+ 87/100
Cortes de Cima 2001
A blend of Syrah, Aragonez and Trincadeira with bit part roles for
Cabernet and Touriga Nacional. Ripe, open nose with an appealing
tarry, spicy richness to the red fruits. The palate has evolved quite
nicely with a tarry depth and a spicy finish. Delicious.
(Interestingly, this has 5.7 g/litre of residual sugar.) Very good+
89/100
Cortes de Cima Syrah 2002
Fresh, vivid juicy fruit on the nose – very fresh and clean. The
palate shows ripe berry fruit with nice structure and depth.
Restrained and quite elegant with a savoury edge. A lovely wine. Very
good/excellent 90/100
 Cortes de Cima Touriga Nacional 2003
Fantastic open Touriga nose, which is highly perfumed with a
subtle herby edge. The palate displays ripe berry fruit with good
definition and spicy, tarry structure. Expressive and satisfying, with
the fruit having the upper hand. Great balance. Very good/excellent
93/100
Cortes de Cima ‘Homage to Hans Christian Andersen
2005’ 2003
A varietal Syrah, made to mark the 200th anniversary of the birth
of the famous Dane storyteller. Fantastic nose of perfumed red berry
fruit with nice freshness and depth. There’s also a subtle tarry
edge. The palate is ripe and full with fantastic weight and richness,
countered effectively by spicy structure. Bold but balanced. Very
good/excellent 93/100
Cortes de Cima Incógnito 2003
This has become a bit of a cult wine in Portugal. I saw a bottle
selling for €70 in one shop. It’s a varietal Syrah, and displays a
full, rich, spicy tarry nose with nicely defined fresh red berry
fruits. The palate is open with more berry fruits and some lushness.
It’s a seductive style of wine. Very good/excellent 91/100
Cortes de Cima Reserva 2001
A blend of Syrah and Aragonez. Ripe, open spicy nose shows some
evolution, with spicy, tarry oak evident. It’s quite savoury with
some tea like notes. The palate is soft, open and evolved with nice
soft spicy structure. Tasty stuff that is evolving nicely. Very
good/excellent 91/100
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