[For
the uninitiated, a 'blog' (or weblog) is a web journal with links.
This gives me a chance to add short, 'off the record' style items
that wouldn't merit a separate article. I try my best to keep
entries informal, frequent, brief and (hopefully) interesting. For
more information about Jamie Goode, see the about
the author section.]
A
NEW FORMAT FOR MY BLOG
It's time for some change
around here. Not just for the sake of it, but because I've decided
that this blog - one of the most visited pages on this site -
needs some new functionality. So I've chosen to go to a proper
blog format, with comments and a feed. Readers for whom this means
something will probably find the new features useful. Others will
find that little has changed, other than the appearance, and
perhaps the posting frequency - I'll probably make more frequent
entries. Feedback on the new format is welcomed; it's not set in
stone.
Added Feb 2010:
And an even newer version of the BLOG
IS HERE. Please change your bookmarks if you use them.
See also: My
blog from January 2006-February 2010.
Sunday
15th January 2006
Last night I made the mistake of trying to taste wine while
typing notes directly into my laptop. Predictably a glass of wine
got spilled onto it. I tipped it upside down, whipped the battery
out and tried to get as much wine out as possible. An hour later I
powered it up and was relieved to find it works. It smells of
stale wine now. Don't try this at home, etc. One of the wines I
tried was a Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne white from 2000,
sealed with an Integra (injection-moulded synthetic). Why is
someone trying to sell this wine? It should have been drunk four
years ago. Predictably, it was oxidised. The evening was much
redeemed by watching The Island (a clever film, even if it is
slightly spoiled by the highly improbably James Bond-like last 40
minutes) and then watching City beat United 3-1. Fantastic.
Saturday
14th January
Friday, what a day. Fiona had been pretty ill for a couple of
days so we decided it would be good if she saw a doctor. Our GP is
useless, unfortunately, so we went to Casualty Plus, a private
walk in service that is worth the £39 per appointment. What a
surprise when the nice South African doctor (they're all South
African, and mostly young -who's looking after the South
Africans?) said she needed to get to hospital, quick. Wow. So it
was off to West Middlesex, where she was admitted and put on iv
fluids and antibiotics. She's now back home, looking a lot
brighter. West Middlesex has been rebuilt since I was there for a
week having my face taken off and put back on again a few years
back, but there's still the same old problem: you can't get the
staff. The doctors were fantastic, but the nursing and support
staff were just well off the pace, there weren't enough of them
and they were completely non-customer-focused. The ENT doctor
supervising Fiona was really frustrated that they didn't do what
they were told to, so this made looking after patients quite
tricky. While she's returning to health, poor old Fiona is off
wine for at least another week. That's tough.
Thursday
12th January
The wine trade has kicked into action this week as the
tasting season was launched with a bang. The Bunch tasting (a
collaborative event with Berry Bros, Corney & Barrow, Yapp,
Tanners, Adnams and Lay & Wheeler) had plenty of interesting
wines, but otherwise it's been all about the Burgundy 2004 en
primeur. Loads of merchants are doing tastings. These are
great for consumers, because you get a chance to try before you
buy. I wish Bordeaux would change their en primeur
campaigns and run them on similar lines: the wines would be almost
a year further on in their development and punters wouldn't have
to rely so much on critics because they'd be able to form their
own judgments. I guess I shouldn't be saying this as a journo -
after all, the current arrangement suits both journos and the
trade quite well. And the 2004s from Burgundy? My initial
impression is that it's a pretty good vintage - better than 2003.
The wines are quite fruity and forward, but with nice typicity,
and some are quite serious.
It was nice that US publication Food and Wine Magazine recently highlighted this as one of the top
wine-related blogs. It’s always rewarding to get a bit
of recognition. However, some of the blogging community complained
that this isn’t a proper blog because it lacks an RSS feed and
comments. It’s true, it’s not a true blog in the sense that it
doesn’t use blogging software, but is created like the rest of
the site, manually, by me. It would be nice to have an RSS feed
and I’d be interested in comments, but this isn’t trivial to
implement unless you use blogging software. Most people blog with
the likes of typepad,
where the blog and the software that run it are hosted externally.
This is no good for wineanorak; I’d take a financial hit if I
didn’t run adverts on this page, one of the most visited on the
site. So, for the last couple of days I’ve been tussling with moveable
type, to see whether this is the answer. It’s
typepad’s software, but you host it on your own site. And it’s
designed for expert technical dudes who know what they’re doing.
Installing it means dealing with cgi scrips, permissions, SQL
databases, CSSs and all that sort of stuff, and it is non-trivial.
So far I’ve got most of it to work, despite having just a
skeleton knowledge of the intricacies of what makes modern
websites tick. I stopped learning after I’d got to grips with
html. But there are some glitches, and I don’t know if I have
the time or enthusiasm to pursue this right now. For the time
being, you are going to have to stick with the blog the way it is.
Monday
9th January
Tonight was the first night back on the football pitch
since before Christmas. It always hurts a bit after a lay-off, and
I guess in two days time I’ll be paying the price – strangely,
the exercise-induced stiffness takes 48 hours or so to develop.
I’m spurred on by the fact that I think I’m getting better
still. Sport is fun. I can run hard for an hour after a football,
or a tennis ball, or even a tiny rubber squash ball; it’s much
harder just to run for an hour with no ball to distract you from
the pain message the body is sending. For fitness, I also really
enjoy swimming, although not for too long, because it’s an
intrinsically boring activity to plough up and down a swimming
pool. My theory: it’s good to exercise, but just as with wine
and other recreational drugs, you can become addicted and then
this takes the fun out of things. Keep it in perspective. Ever
spent time with a serious runner? They’re always itching to get
out of the house for a run, and will flout well established social
conventions in order to feed their need. It’s a socially
acceptable addiction – running excessively even has a bit of a
cachet with metropolitan sophisticates - but it can screw your
life up. Ultimately, exercise addiction suggests a propensity
towards narcissism. As I write, I’m celebrating a relatively
successful return to the football pitch with some fizz. It’s the
Laurent Perrier NV Champagne (£24.99 Oddbins) and it’s
rather good. I’m continuing with my exploration of Champagne,
and this is up there with the top-notch NV’s I’ve tried in
recent weeks. There’s some richness and complexity, but
contained within a very fresh, bright package: there’s a clean
fruitiness here and good lemony acidity. Very refined. Not as rich
as the wonderful Roederer, but just as refined. My only regret is
the price. Good Champagne is undeniably expensive.
Saturday 7th January
Just a quickie. I'm going to Australia again in March, where
I'm involved in a conference (6-9th). It's a long way to go just
for this so I'd like to do a few day's wine stuff at the end. I'm
happy to take internal flights, which are quite cheap. Has anyone
got any bright ideas about how I could spend my time - this might
help me make my mind up, something I'm finding difficult to do. I
need to book my flights soon-ish.
Friday 6th January
Coffee
isn't wine. But I'm going to mention it here because it shares a
number of attributes with wine, aside from being a beverage.
Significantly, there is a connoisseurship (get that one right
without the spellchecker...) associated with coffee that is almost
as involved as that with wine. However, while wine geeks just have
to pour the stuff, coffee geeks have an instrumental role in
making their drink of choice. It's the equivalent of being given
the grapes and told to make wine from them. Well, not quite, but
you get the idea.
My
wife has been on a rich vein of form in her present buying in
recent months. She's generally an expert gift purchaser (hence I
am relieved from a task I'm not the best at), but with my recent
birthday and Christmas pressies she has excelled. The latter was
an espresso maker (pictured). As a non-coffee geek I've been
introduced to the new realm of serious coffee, although I'm just
taking my first fumbling steps.
To
make a really good espresso (apparently) you need to grind your
own beans, and these beans need to be fresh. Like most wine, the
enemy of coffee is air. Ground coffee rapidly loses its myriad
aromatic compounds. Really serious coffee dudes complain of
roasted beans losing their freshness even when stored in an
airtight container in the freezer. For this reason, some people
even roast their own beans.
To
grind coffee for espresso, even I know that a blade grinder is no
good. That's a shame, because they are cheap. It needs to be what
is called a burr grinder. I don't yet have a grinder of any
description. It's complex, isn't it. For the time being I'm using
ready ground coffee which I keep in the freezer, but don't tell
anyone.
Monday 2nd January
It's a bit lull-ish, this period over the new year. In some
ways it's quite nice that here, in the northern hemisphere, we
don't have Christmas and summer at the same time. I get the
impression that in South Africa, Australia and other southern
hemisphere nations, each country virtually shuts down because of the
coincidence of the two holidays. Nothing wrong with that, other
than anywhere nice becomes horribly, impossibly busy. Us
northerners aren't forced to take our summer holiday all at the
same time, and we get a separate Christmas break too.
Since we got back from skiing things have been pretty
low key. Lunch with friends yesterday was fun, followed by a
twilight walk along the Thames. In the evening we watched the
wonderful Shaun of the Dead, a very funny if slightly
tasteless film. Today we went back to the river, for lunch at the
lovely Minnows in Weybridge. To accompany a rather good mushroom
risotto, I drank Leffe Blonde, a deliciously rich-textured
Belgian beer with lots of yeasty, tangy complexity. The Thames was
quite peaceful today, a reflective grey sort of colour in the weak
winter light.
I've
done a bit of fizz recently. Over the last couple of days we've
been struggling to get through a bottle of Lanson Gold Label
1996. It's quite refined on the nose but it's almost
impossibly acidic on the palate. It may well age brilliantly, but
at the moment I can't get past the acidity. I was also surprised
to find a rather obvious typo on the back label (below). Roederer
NV consumed on our last day in Switzerland was as delicious as
usual. Impressive stuff. Champagne Pommery Maxi-Pop NV is
an example of Champagne marketed directly at trendy yoof of the
clubbing variety. Nice packaging, but the wine is merely bright,
lemony and crisp in a rather simple, accessible style. Pol
Roger Rosé 1998 shows a distinctive strawberry edge to the
elegant, fresh, taut fruit. This is classy. These last two were
had at a Boxing day bash at the Beavington's pad (sister and
brother-in-law) with the family, where we were treated to an
enormous Stilton (pictured below right with a bottle next to it
for scale).
 
Sunday 1st January
What will 2006 hold? All things considered, 2005 was a good
year. Lots of good things happened, although it presented some
tremendous challenges too. I suspect there's no way of insulating yourself from difficult stuff. It's best
to accept that life is going to be mixed, and, while it's a bit of
a cliché, there are few of us who could survive an easy life
without taking a corresponding hit in our character development.
New
year's eve chez Goode was brought forward a few hours (our kids
can't handle staying up late), so by midnight I was sitting up
alone watching a re-run of the Ashes highlights sipping De
Bortoli's Show Liqueur Muscat. At £8.50 from Majestic this is
a complete bargain: it's the real deal, thick, raisined and very
sweet, but in balance. For those of you who like Pedro Ximenez
sherry, this is very similar in style. The ultimate winter wine.
Friday 30th December
We've
been skiing. This is why there hasn't been an update for a few
days, for which I apologize. This was the first time our boys had
been on the slopes, and it was my first time since Christmas 1999,
when on Christmas eve at Megeve, our first day, I snapped the bone
in the base of my thumb clean through (it now has a titanium plate
in it, attached neatly with six screws). This time we drove to
Geneva to stay with Fiona's brother and family at their home in
Commugny. Fortunately, the Jura mountains, which are just 20
minutes drive, had amazingly good snow for this time of year, so
we spent our time there. We all had lessons to begin with, and
then spent the rest of our time on some delightful easy slopes,
including a gentle 3 km descent through the trees. It was very
beautiful, and I've survived unscathed. Going down the sides of
mountains with bits of fibreglass stuck to your feet is a rather
daft and potentially hazardous way of spending your leisure time,
but it is tremendous fun if you stick to slopes that are scary
good, rather than scary bad. It's an important difference.
It's
also a way of burning lots of money fast. Skiing gets expensive,
once you add all the different bits together. In our case
it was a bit cheaper because we didn't have to pay for
accommodation and the Eurotunnel crossing was a complimentary one.
It's a long way to drive, though, for just three days, and it
hurts driving so close to serious wine country (Champagne,
Burgundy, Northern Rhône) without stopping off. Still, well worth
it for the magic of the mountains. In the evening we've been doing
some wine. Gruaud Larose 1999 is actually quite a serious
effort, despite the vintage. It's earthy, savoury and tight with
good concentration, and will age well over the medium term. Castello
di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva 2000 is a taut, full Chianti with an intense,
slightly medicinal tang to the plummy fruit. Satisfying and
reasonably serious. The Abbe Rous Cornet & Co Banyuls
Rimage 2003 really appealed to me: this is a sweet Grenache
and shows lovely spicy complexity. It's quite Port like, but you
can really spot the Grenache with its distinctive varietal
character. We've also had a couple of nice Swiss whites, and the
remarkable Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine 2002 from Niagara
in Canada - intensely sweet with ripe apricot and tinned mandarin
fruit, finishing off with huge acidity. I'm not normally a big fan
of icewine*, preferring botrytised wines, but this was quite
impressive.
*I've
always had this sneaking suspicion that icewine was fiercely
expensive and sought after merely because it was hard to do -
winemakers have to leave a crop on the vine and keep it healthy
until the middle of winter. Crushing part frozen grapes yields
hugely sweet musts with sky high acidity, which is what you want
if you are making sweet wine, but why not do this artificially?
The grapes gain very little from being left to hang until
mid-December. The wine just gets rarer and more expensive with all
the effort.
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