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[For the
uninitiated, a 'blog' (or weblog)
is a web journal with links. This gives me a chance to add short, 'off the record' style items that
wouldn't merit a separate article. I try my best to keep entries informal,
frequent, brief and (hopefully) interesting. For more information
about Jamie Goode, see the about the author
section.]
A
NEW FORMAT FOR MY BLOG
It's time for some change around
here. Not just for the sake of it, but because I've decided that this
blog - one of the most visited pages on this site - needs some new
functionality. So I've chosen to go to a proper blog format, with
comments and a feed. Readers for whom this means something will
probably find the new features useful. Others will find that little
has changed, other than the appearance, and perhaps the posting
frequency - I'll probably make more frequent entries. Feedback on the
new format is welcomed; it's not set in stone.
The
new blog is here. Please change your bookmarks, if you use
them.
Sunday
15th January 2006
Last night I made the mistake of trying to taste wine while typing
notes directly into my laptop. Predictably a glass of wine got spilled
onto it. I tipped it upside down, whipped the battery out and tried to
get as much wine out as possible. An hour later I powered it up and
was relieved to find it works. It smells of stale wine now. Don't try
this at home, etc. One of the wines I tried was a Vin de Pays des
Côtes de Gascogne white from 2000, sealed with an Integra (injection-moulded
synthetic). Why is someone trying to sell this wine? It should have
been drunk four years ago. Predictably, it was oxidised. The evening
was much redeemed by watching The Island (a clever film, even if it is
slightly spoiled by the highly improbably James Bond-like last 40
minutes) and then watching City beat United 3-1. Fantastic.
Saturday
14th January
Friday, what a day. Fiona had been pretty ill for a couple of days
so we decided it would be good if she saw a doctor. Our GP is useless,
unfortunately, so we went to Casualty Plus, a private walk in service
that is worth the £39 per appointment. What a surprise when the nice
South African doctor (they're all South African, and mostly young
-who's looking after the South Africans?) said she needed to get to
hospital, quick. Wow. So it was off to West Middlesex, where she was
admitted and put on iv fluids and antibiotics. She's now back home,
looking a lot brighter. West Middlesex has been rebuilt since I was
there for a week having my face taken off and put back on again a few
years back, but there's still the same old problem: you can't get the
staff. The doctors were fantastic, but the nursing and support staff
were just well off the pace, there weren't enough of them and they
were completely non-customer-focused. The ENT doctor supervising Fiona
was really frustrated that they didn't do what they were told to, so
this made looking after patients quite tricky. While she's returning
to health, poor old Fiona is off wine for at least another week.
That's tough.
Thursday
12th January
The wine trade has kicked into action this week as the
tasting season was launched with a bang. The Bunch tasting (a
collaborative event with Berry Bros, Corney & Barrow, Yapp,
Tanners, Adnams and Lay & Wheeler) had plenty of interesting
wines, but otherwise it's been all about the Burgundy 2004 en
primeur. Loads of merchants are doing tastings. These are great
for consumers, because you get a chance to try before you buy. I wish
Bordeaux would change their en primeur campaigns and run them
on similar lines: the wines would be almost a year further on in their
development and punters wouldn't have to rely so much on critics
because they'd be able to form their own judgments. I guess I
shouldn't be saying this as a journo - after all, the current
arrangement suits both journos and the trade quite well. And the 2004s
from Burgundy? My initial impression is that it's a pretty good
vintage - better than 2003. The wines are quite fruity and forward,
but with nice typicity, and some are quite serious.
It was nice that US publication Food and Wine Magazine recently highlighted this as one of the top
wine-related blogs. It’s always rewarding to get a bit of
recognition. However, some of the blogging community complained that
this isn’t a proper blog because it lacks an RSS feed and comments.
It’s true, it’s not a true blog in the sense that it doesn’t use
blogging software, but is created like the rest of the site, manually,
by me. It would be nice to have an RSS feed and I’d be interested in
comments, but this isn’t trivial to implement unless you use
blogging software. Most people blog with the likes of typepad, where
the blog and the software that run it are hosted externally. This is
no good for wineanorak; I’d take a financial hit if I didn’t run
adverts on this page, one of the most visited on the site. So, for the
last couple of days I’ve been tussling with moveable
type, to see
whether this is the answer. It’s typepad’s software, but you host
it on your own site. And it’s designed for expert technical dudes
who know what they’re doing. Installing it means dealing with cgi
scrips, permissions, SQL databases, CSSs and all that sort of stuff,
and it is non-trivial. So far I’ve got most of it to work, despite
having just a skeleton knowledge of the intricacies of what makes
modern websites tick. I stopped learning after I’d got to grips with
html. But there are some glitches, and I don’t know if I have the
time or enthusiasm to pursue this right now. For the time being, you
are going to have to stick with the blog the way it is.
Monday
9th January
Tonight was the first night back on the football pitch
since before Christmas. It always hurts a bit after a lay-off, and I
guess in two days time I’ll be paying the price – strangely, the
exercise-induced stiffness takes 48 hours or so to develop. I’m
spurred on by the fact that I think I’m getting better still. Sport
is fun. I can run hard for an hour after a football, or a tennis ball,
or even a tiny rubber squash ball; it’s much harder just to run for
an hour with no ball to distract you from the pain message the body is
sending. For fitness, I also really enjoy swimming, although not for
too long, because it’s an intrinsically boring activity to plough up
and down a swimming pool. My theory: it’s good to exercise, but just
as with wine and other recreational drugs, you can become addicted and
then this takes the fun out of things. Keep it in perspective. Ever
spent time with a serious runner? They’re always itching to get out
of the house for a run, and will flout well established social
conventions in order to feed their need. It’s a socially acceptable
addiction – running excessively even has a bit of a cachet with
metropolitan sophisticates - but it can screw your life up.
Ultimately, exercise addiction suggests a propensity towards
narcissism. As I write, I’m celebrating a relatively successful
return to the football pitch with some fizz. It’s the Laurent
Perrier NV Champagne (£24.99 Oddbins) and it’s rather good.
I’m continuing with my exploration of Champagne, and this is up
there with the top-notch NV’s I’ve tried in recent weeks.
There’s some richness and complexity, but contained within a very
fresh, bright package: there’s a clean fruitiness here and good
lemony acidity. Very refined. Not as rich as the wonderful Roederer,
but just as refined. My only regret is the price. Good Champagne is
undeniably expensive.
Saturday 7th January
Just a quickie. I'm going to Australia again in March, where I'm
involved in a conference (6-9th). It's a long way to go just for this
so I'd like to do a few day's wine stuff at the end. I'm happy to take
internal flights, which are quite cheap. Has anyone got any bright
ideas about how I could spend my time - this might help me make my
mind up, something I'm finding difficult to do. I need to book my
flights soon-ish.
Friday 6th January
Coffee
isn't wine. But I'm going to mention it here because it shares a
number of attributes with wine, aside from being a beverage.
Significantly, there is a connoisseurship (get that one right without
the spellchecker...) associated with coffee that is almost as involved
as that with wine. However, while wine geeks just have to pour the
stuff, coffee geeks have an instrumental role in making their drink of
choice. It's the equivalent of being given the grapes and told to make
wine from them. Well, not quite, but you get the idea.
My
wife has been on a rich vein of form in her present buying in recent
months. She's generally an expert gift purchaser (hence I am relieved
from a task I'm not the best at), but with my recent birthday and
Christmas pressies she has excelled. The latter was an espresso maker
(pictured). As a non-coffee geek I've been introduced to the new realm
of serious coffee, although I'm just taking my first fumbling
steps.
To
make a really good espresso (apparently) you need to grind your own
beans, and these beans need to be fresh. Like most wine, the enemy of
coffee is air. Ground coffee rapidly loses its myriad aromatic
compounds. Really serious coffee dudes complain of roasted beans
losing their freshness even when stored in an airtight container in
the freezer. For this reason, some people even roast their own
beans.
To
grind coffee for espresso, even I know that a blade grinder is no
good. That's a shame, because they are cheap. It needs to be what is
called a burr grinder. I don't yet have a grinder of any description.
It's complex, isn't it. For the time being I'm using ready ground
coffee which I keep in the freezer, but don't tell anyone.
Monday 2nd January
It's a bit lull-ish, this period over the new year. In some ways
it's quite nice that here, in the northern hemisphere, we don't have
Christmas and summer at the same time. I get the impression
that in South Africa, Australia and other southern hemisphere nations,
each country virtually shuts down because of the
coincidence of the two holidays. Nothing wrong with that, other than
anywhere nice becomes horribly, impossibly busy. Us northerners aren't
forced to take our summer holiday all at the same time, and we get a
separate Christmas break too.
Since we got back from skiing things have been pretty
low key. Lunch with friends yesterday was fun, followed by a twilight
walk along the Thames. In the evening we watched the wonderful Shaun
of the Dead, a very funny if slightly tasteless film. Today we
went back to the river, for lunch at the lovely Minnows in Weybridge.
To accompany a rather good mushroom risotto, I drank Leffe Blonde,
a deliciously rich-textured Belgian beer with lots of yeasty, tangy
complexity. The Thames was quite peaceful today, a reflective grey
sort of colour in the weak winter light.
I've
done a bit of fizz recently. Over the last couple of days we've been
struggling to get through a bottle of Lanson Gold Label 1996.
It's quite refined on the nose but it's almost impossibly acidic on
the palate. It may well age brilliantly, but at the moment I can't get
past the acidity. I was also surprised to find a rather obvious typo
on the back label (below). Roederer NV consumed on our
last day in Switzerland was as delicious as usual. Impressive stuff. Champagne
Pommery Maxi-Pop NV is an example of Champagne marketed directly
at trendy yoof of the clubbing variety. Nice packaging, but the wine
is merely bright, lemony and crisp in a rather simple, accessible
style. Pol Roger Rosé 1998 shows a distinctive strawberry edge
to the elegant, fresh, taut fruit. This is classy. These last two were
had at a Boxing day bash at the Beavington's pad (sister and
brother-in-law) with the family, where we were treated to an enormous
Stilton (pictured below right with a bottle next to it for
scale).
 
Sunday 1st January
What will 2006 hold? All things considered, 2005 was a good year.
Lots of good things happened, although it presented some tremendous
challenges too. I suspect there's no way of insulating yourself from difficult stuff. It's best
to accept that life is going to be mixed, and, while it's a bit of
a cliché, there are few of us who could survive an easy life without
taking a corresponding hit in our character development.
New
year's eve chez Goode was brought forward a few hours (our kids can't
handle staying up late), so by midnight I was sitting up alone
watching a re-run of the Ashes highlights sipping De Bortoli's Show
Liqueur Muscat. At £8.50 from Majestic this is a complete
bargain: it's the real deal, thick, raisined and very sweet, but in
balance. For those of you who like Pedro Ximenez sherry, this is very
similar in style. The ultimate winter wine.
Friday 30th December
We've
been skiing. This is why there hasn't been an update for a few days,
for which I apologize. This was the first time our boys had been on
the slopes, and it was my first time since Christmas 1999, when on
Christmas eve at Megeve, our first day, I snapped the bone in the base
of my thumb clean through (it now has a titanium plate in it, attached
neatly with six screws). This time we drove to Geneva to stay with
Fiona's brother and family at their home in Commugny. Fortunately, the
Jura mountains, which are just 20 minutes drive, had amazingly good
snow for this time of year, so we spent our time there. We all had
lessons to begin with, and then spent the rest of our time on some
delightful easy slopes, including a gentle 3 km descent through the
trees. It was very beautiful, and I've survived unscathed. Going down
the sides of mountains with bits of fibreglass stuck to your feet is a
rather daft and potentially hazardous way of spending your leisure
time, but it is tremendous fun if you stick to slopes that are scary
good, rather than scary bad. It's an important difference.
It's
also a way of burning lots of money fast. Skiing gets expensive, once
you add all the different bits together. In our case
it was a bit cheaper because we didn't have to pay for accommodation
and the Eurotunnel crossing was a complimentary one. It's a long way
to drive, though, for just three days, and it hurts driving so close
to serious wine country (Champagne, Burgundy, Northern Rhône) without
stopping off. Still, well worth it for the magic of the mountains. In
the evening we've been doing some wine. Gruaud Larose 1999 is
actually quite a serious effort, despite the vintage. It's earthy,
savoury and tight with good concentration, and will age well over the
medium term. Castello di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva 2000 is a taut, full Chianti with an intense,
slightly medicinal tang to the plummy fruit. Satisfying and reasonably
serious. The Abbe Rous Cornet & Co Banyuls Rimage 2003
really appealed to me: this is a sweet Grenache and shows lovely spicy
complexity. It's quite Port like, but you can really spot the Grenache
with its distinctive varietal character. We've also had a couple of
nice Swiss whites, and the remarkable Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine
2002 from Niagara in Canada - intensely sweet with ripe
apricot and tinned mandarin fruit, finishing off with huge acidity.
I'm not normally a big fan of icewine*, preferring botrytised wines,
but this was quite impressive.
*I've
always had this sneaking suspicion that icewine was fiercely expensive
and sought after merely because it was hard to do - winemakers have to
leave a crop on the vine and keep it healthy until the middle of
winter. Crushing part frozen grapes yields hugely sweet musts with sky
high acidity, which is what you want if you are making sweet wine, but
why not do this artificially? The grapes gain very little from being
left to hang until mid-December. The wine just gets rarer and more
expensive with all the effort.
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