jamie goode's wine blog

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Moldovan wine

I was recently sent three wines from Moldova to try: an aged red wine, an aged dessert wine and a more recent Chardonnay (2005). The Chardonnay was minerally but a bit flat and showing some traces of oxidation, but the two older wines were of real interest.

They come from Cricova, a company famous for its amazing underground cellars: see their website here. They're distributed in the UK by Exquisite Wines, whose blog makes interesting reading.

Cricova Vin de Colectie Dionis 1992 Moldova
10% alcohol. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, which I think is the first time I've had this combination. It's a bright cherry red colour without much fading at the rim. The nose shows lovely aromatics with notes of leather and herbs under the sweet, focused raspberry and plum fruit. The palate shows nice fresh fruit with an earthy, savoury undercurrent and just a hint of earthy funkiness on the finish. It's evolving really well, and would have got a higher rating had it not been for the slight savoury funk. Overall, though, I was really impressed by this wine. 89/100

Cricova Vin de Colectie Gratiesti Nectar 1990 Moldova
16% alcohol. Orange/brown colour. Bold, rich and sweet with flavours of raisins, barley sugar, nuts, apricots and dates. Quite richly textured and very sweet. Warming, like a Tawny Port crossed with a sweet sherry, with nice complexity. 90/100