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Austrian wines part 6
Hans Schwarz

Hans Schwarz is a butcher. He’s a big man, and so are his wines. He’s best chums with Alois Kracher, and together they make wines from Hans’ vineyards – has has 13 hectares, of which Alois rents five.

I met him at the Kracher tastings, where he was running the grill, turning out some very tasty meat.

You’ve got to admire these wines for their in-yer-face quality, even if they may not be to everyone’s taste. If you are looking for finesse and subtlety, go elsewhere, but if you want a white knuckle, high octane experience, come aboard the good ship Schwarz.

Schwarz Cuvée White 2000 Neusiedlersee
This bold white wine is a blend of Chardonnay and
Grüner Veltliner. Deep yellow in colour with rich, intense sweet fruit and toasty oak on the nose. The palate is rich, intense and almost viscous, with great concentration of fruit and some vanilla notes. Very good/excellent 90/100

Schwarz Cuvée White 2002 Neusiedlersee
Golden yellow. Alluring, rich nose with notes of sweet herbs and vanilla. Well defined. The palate is viscous and rich with a lovely texture and herb-tinged ripe peachy fruit. Viscous and full, this is almost Viognier-like. Very good/excellent 91/100

Schwarz Zweigelt 2000 Neusiedlersee
A varietal Zweigelt. Very rich, ripe and fruity with smooth black fruits and a tarry edge. Almost Australian. Sweetly fruited with some structure: an amazingly bold style. Very good/excellent 90/100

Schwarz Zweigelt 2001 Neusiedlersee
Ripe, smooth dark fruits nose is slightly less showy than the 2002. Firm, quite structured palate with some complexity and lovely taut fruit. Some substance here: this is really nice. Very good/excellent 92/100

Schwarz Zweigelt 2002 Neusiedlersee
Very sweet, ripe open nose with alluring ripe fruit. Very sweet, liquoricey and expressive. The palate shows ripe sweet open fruit and some spicy oak: this is an unashamedly modern-styled wine. Lovely. Very good/excellent 91/100

Availability in the UK: Noel Young Wines

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