The wines of Austria, part 12, Stadt Krems

Weingut Stadt Krems, A-3500 Krems, Stadtgraben 11, Austria
T: +43-2732-801-441, F: +43-2732-801-442
E: weingut@krems.gv.at; www.weingutstadtkrems.at

The boyish-looking Fritz Miesbauer (right) has already established quite a reputation. One of a two-man team, he propelled the cooperative Freie Weingartner Wachau (FWW) to the forefront of the Austrian wine scene before having to leave. FWW’s loss was the gain of Weingut Stadt Krems, and in just a couple of years (Fritz was appointed in July 2003) he’s made this previously slumbering producer one to watch out for.

Stadt Krems is rather unusually owned by the municipality of Krems, and has 30 hectares of vineyards all within the city limits. It has been making wine for 550 years. The wines I tried from the 2003 vintage, which were the first ones made here by Fritz, are very impressive.

Interestingly, Miesbauer is adopting the novel Vinolok closure for some of the wines: this is a glass stopper with a plastic sealing gasket, topped with a metal cap.

Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Sandgrube 2003
This is a vineyard that is a mixture of sand and loess, with the grapes picked at the end of Septmember. Fresh, modern fruity nose is quite refined, leading to a rich palate with full texture and some freshness. Very good+ 87/100

Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Weinzierlberg 2003
Quite a bright peppery nose, which is modern, clean and crisp with some interest. The palate is dense and quite concentrated showing a rich, smooth texture and a peppery finish. Savoury style with high acid. Very good+ 89/100

Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Wachtberg 2003
This is a 12th century vineyard with gneiss and loess terraces. Clean grapes harvested on 7th November. 1.5 days skin contact and then the wine is fermernted in 2000 litre oak barrels with natural yeasts. There’s a savoury, spicy, peppery density here. Fresh with some complexity. The palate is quite richly textured with some fruit sweetness and a nice spiciness. A rich, expressive wine: pure and quite full. Very good/excellent 91/100

Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2003
Harvested on the 15/16 November, and including some selected botrytis bunches. Handled in the same way as the Wachtberg. Weighs in at 14.5% alcohol. Very rich, intense nose showing full sweet, herby fruit with a pronounced peppery overlay. Concentrated, rich, smooth palate with an intense peppery edge to the sweet fruit. Finishes dry. Very good/excellent 93/100

Nice new stainless steel tanks

2000 litre casks

Stadt Krems Riesling Kögl 2003
Very bright, fresh limey nose with some minerality. The palate is fresh, full and minerally, showing good balance. Quite straightforward in a lean, minerally style. Delicious. Very good/excellent 90/100

Stadt Krems Riesling Grillenparz 2003
From 100% gneiss soils and 48 year old vines. Fresh, savoury, fruity nose. The palate is rounded and full with nice fruit. Some plumpness in a rich style, although a little simple now. Very good+ 89/100

Stadt Krems Riesling Reserve 2003
Picked 17 November, fermented in 2000 litre barrels with natural yeasts. Lovely aromatic nose that is crisp and perfumed with subtly lemony fruit. Nice richness to the expressive palate. Delicate but quite fat at the same time: fantastic. Rich round fruit with a hint of sweetness – a very expressive wine. 13.5% alcohol and 21 g/l residual sugar. Very good/excellent 93/100

A publicity pic from Wine & Partners showing Kathrin Bründlmayer, Fritz Miesbauer, Leopold Figl and Julia Nachförg in the Kögl vineyard. It's very Eurovision, isn't it. Pass the cheese.

Back to top