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Austrian wine series
The wines of Emmerich Knoll, Wachau

Weingut Knoll, Unterloiben 10, A-3601 Dürnstein, Austria
Website: http://www.loibnerhof.at
UK agent: Richards Walford

This is a stunning line up of wines from one of the Austrian giants, whose fantastically elaborate labels were memorably (and incorrectly) described to me once as the 'exploding Jesus'. Actually, the label depicts not Jesus, but St Urban, the patron saint of wine growing.

Based in Unterloiben in the Wachau, Knoll have plots in many of the leading vineyards of the region, totalling almost 15 hectares in all. Emmerichs II and III are currently in charge of this family-run domaine. 

The notes below are from two tastings, the first in February 2008, and the second in 2006.

Knoll Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles 2006 Wachau, Austria
Open, fresh and slightly herby with some peppery depth. A focused, bright style that’s quite pure. 88/100

Knoll Riesling Kabinett Pfaffenberg 2006 Kremstal, Austria
Pure, focused limey nose. The palate is fresh and bright with good acidity and a mineralic twist. Lovely lime and herb character: a delicious wine. 90/100

Knoll Riesling Kabinett Pfaffenberg 2004 Kremstal, Austria
Nice petrolly, herby evolution on the nose. The palate is focused with some minerally, herby notes. Savoury and dry in character. 90/100

Knoll Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 2005 Wachau, Austria
Nice concentration of tight, herby, minerally, lemony flavours. It’s concentrated, fresh and savoury, with great depth. 91/100

Knoll Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 2004 Wachau, Austria
Focused tight fruit with some herbiness and lime on the nose. The palate has richness and depth, and is focused, broad and mineralic. A really expressive wine. 92/100

Knoll Riesling Auslese 2005 Wachau, Austria
Rich limey nose is forward, sweet and aromatic, with lemon and a bit of apricot. The palate is broad and viscous but avoids being heavy, with bright acidity and lemony, melony fruit. A lovely sweet wine. 92/100

(wines tasted 02/08)

Knoll Grüner Veltliner Schütt Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Clean, pure and fresh on the nose. Gently aromatic with some richness. The palate has a lovely weight and texture with really impeccable balance and a touch of white pepper character. Very good/excellent 93/100

Knoll Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Fresh, clean, almost crisp nose is gently spiced. The palate has lovely freshness and purity, and a nice texture. A bright wine with a peppery finish. Very good/excellent 92/100

Knoll Riesling Reid Pfaffenberg Kabinett 2002 Wachau
Crisp, beautfully aromatic citrussy nose. This is fantastic. The palate is fresh with great poise and explosive acidity. Complex lemony fruit dominates. Very good/excellent 93/100

Knoll Reid Pfaffenberg Kabinett 2003 Wachau
Beautifully poised fresh nose is spicy, lemony and expressive. The palate is tight and crisp with nice acidity and purity of fruit. An elegant dry style. Very good/excellent 92/100

Knoll Riesling Reid Loibenberg Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Wonderful fresh intensity to the rich aromatic nose. The palate is rich, dry and complex with lots of intensity and a mineralic edge to the full fruit. A stunning wine. Excellent 95/100

Knoll Riesling Reid Schütt Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Spicy, lemony fruit on the nose. The palate is quite rich and full textured in a sweeter style. Sort of dry but there’s lots of residual sugar here. Lovely and fresh. Very good/excellent 92/100  

wines tasted 02/06

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