September 2004
Previous months' recommendations: August 2003 | September
2003 | October 2003 | November
2003 | December 2003 | January
2004 | February 2004 | March
2004 | April 2004 | May
2004 | June 2004 | July
2004 | August 2004
My rating
system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com
to locate a stockist in your area and my directory
of UK wine merchants for details of those listed here. See also: the wineanorak's
shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail
outlets. These recommendations are truly independent: I don't accept
payment or other favours for inclusions, nor do I sell wine.
Defaix Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2000 Burgundy, France
I'll begin this month's reccos with two Chablis (is that the plural?).
Defaix are one of my favourite Chablis producers, making very
traditional-styled wines and releasing them late with some bottle age.
This has a complex nose of citrus fruits, herbs, nuts and minerals. The
palate is full flavoured but tight with lots of nutty, minerally character
and lively acidity. Very good/excellent 92/100 (Threshers/Wine Rack £12.99)
William Fevre Chablis 2002 Burgundy, France
Lovely fresh nose: crisp and minerally with citrus and grapefruit
character, together with a perfumed, nutty, damp straw note. The palate is
savoury with a good concentration of minerally fruit. Lovely definition
and balance. Despite the concentration this is not at all thick and heavy.
Very good/excellent 91/100 (£8.99 Sainsbury)
Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Constantia, South Africa
Next two Sauvignons. Sauvignon Blanc can get a little boring, but
it’s an incredibly useful grape that makes wines that drink well with a
wide range of foods, or even on their own. This is a very good one. Full,
open nose with blackcurrant (yes) and herb notes: quite aromatic and full.
The palate is concentrated and ripe with a lovely grassy edge to the rich
fruit. Impressive full flavoured style. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£7.99
Sainsbury)
Greenhough Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Nelson, New Zealand
Marlborough is the New Zealand region most associated with Sauvignon,
but this one from Nelson is worth checking out. Enticing, rich grassy nose
with some sweetness, hints of tropical fruit and an appealing grassiness.
The palate shows good complexity: it is crisp and herby with nice fruit. A
textbook, concentrated rich style of Sauvignon with good balance. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (Around £12 - I'll double check - Lay &
Wheeler)
Albert Mann Pinot Blanc Auxerrois 2002 Alsace
I’m a keen fan of decent Alsace whites, and this fits the bill.
Fresh, open, fruity and grapey with a slightly sweet honeyed character and
subtle herbiness. There’s a bit of spiciness too. Overall this is dry,
but there’s some sweetness to the fruit. It’s an expressive white with
great balance. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£9.99 Oddbins)
Lowe Hunter Valley Shiraz 2000 Australia
A classic Hunter Valley Shiraz: aromatic, spicy, tarry nose with sweet
ripe red fruits. The palate is rich and spicy: quite elegant with high
acidity. The balance is just right between the sweet fruit, high acid and
the spicy tannins, with some earthy undercurrents. A lovely wine showing
great typicity. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£12.50 www.strathardlefinewines.co.uk)
Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Shiraz 2002 Eden Valley,
South Australia
This is the first vintage of this exciting new wine, which was made in
a rather unusual Italian-inspired way. Prior to crush the handpicked fruit
was dried on racks, before fermentation and then ageing 18 months in a mix
of new and old French and American barriques. The first thing that you
notice about this wine is its colour: it is a dark red/black without some
of the vibrancy seen in young wines. The nose is very striking, dominated
by clearly defined black fruit aromas, together with some earthy
spiciness. Great fruit purity. The palate is very concentrated, sweet,
lush and smooth, with a spicy black cherry edge. Great length here, with a
seamless elegance to the intense fruit. A drinkable yet serious wine with
a distinctive personality, it will be interesting to see how this evolves.
Tried twice, with consistent notes: it kept its shape very well after
opening and was still superb three days later. Excellent 95/100 (£25, Cellar Door in Hampshire, www.thecellardoor.co.uk)
Teusner Joshua 2003
Barossa Valley, Australia
A repeat recommendation: I tried this again in Australia, and my notes
and rating tallied well. An elegantly packaged unoaked blend of Grenache,
Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Lovely open nose dominated by distinctive peppery
fruit (primarily cherries and berries) with a liqueur-like sweetness, and
a hint of earthiness. The palate is ripe and open with sweet peppery,
spicy berry fruit. The finish is spicy and earthy. Quite a distinctive
wine and almost southern Rhône-like. Not too obvious - I really like
this. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£12.95 The Cellar Door, www.thecellardoor.co.uk)
E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions
at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk
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