Reliable, independent buying advice from the wine anorak
January 2004

Wines under £8 | Wines over £8

Previous months' recommendations: December 2002 | January 2003 | February 2003 | March 2003 | April 2003 | May 2003 | June 2003 | July 2003 | August 2003 | September 2003 | October 2003 | November 2003 | December 2003

My rating system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com to locate a stockist in your area. See also: the wineanorak's shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail outlets.

Bargain picks   

Domaine Monpertuis Vignoble de la Ramière Cuvée Counoise 2000 Vin de Pays du Gard, France
The Counoise is a red grape that's often used as a blending component in Châtrauneuf du Pape but which is rarely seen on its own. I am very excited by this wine, which shows wonderful personality. It has a slightly cheesy, meaty, savoury edge on the nose. The palate is dense, spicy, meaty and savoury with good acidity, and a bold spicy aftertaste. With its firm, tannic structure it's quite challenging: it's a big, firm wine. (£5.95 Lay & Wheeler)  

Jamet Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes 2002 Rhône, France
Interesting, characterful and savoury, this Northern Rhône Syrah is dangerously easy to drink. With its meaty, spicy fruit and fresh, lively acidity, this won't be a wine for everyone, but I find it quite compelling. It really shouts its origins: an authentic wine that's probably best with food. Very good+ 88/100 (£5.99 Majestic) 

Pic St Loup Réserve 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc
Ignore the rather unassuming packaging: from Les Coteaux du Pic, this is a good introduction to the wines of the Languedoc commune of Pic St Loup. There are hints of meats and spice to the savoury dark fruit nose. The palate is smooth and savoury with earthy, spicy fruit. Lots of typicity in this rather terroir-driven wine. Very good+ 87/100 (£5.99 Thresher)

Luis Fellipe Edwards Malbec Terraced 2002 Colchagua, Chile
Chilean reds often offer little more than pure bright fruit, but this lovely Malbec shows elegant structure some minerally complexity, too. It’s delicious, and well worth the money. Rich ripe fruit dominates with a spicy finish. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£6.99 Co-op)

Wines over £8

Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon 2001 Loire, France
From a butterfly shaped vineyards with schistous soils, this is a distinctive, serious dry white wine that will age well. Tight, complex herby nose is savoury and firm. The palate is taut and shows lots of herby, straw-like, waxy flavours. Lovely acid structure and minerality. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£12.25 Berry Bros & Rudd)  

Millfield Hunter Valley Semillon 2000 Australia
The Hunter Valley is the home of Semillon in Australia, and this is one of the best I've tasted. It has an intense lemon and herb nose with a straw-like edge - it's almost Chenin-like. The palate is rich, savoury and fruity with great balance and good acidity. Quite complex with a toasty edge. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£11 Corney & Barrow)

Millton Vineyards Opou Chardonnay 2002 Gisborne
James Millton is a biodynamic producer from New Zealand, and he's making delicious wines. This Chardonnay has a rich classy nose with lots of nutty oak complexity and ripe fruit. Rich, creamy/nutty palate shows a nice texture. A brilliantly bold new world Chardonnay. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£8.99 Vintage Roots, www.vintageroots.co.uk)

Domaine Mittnacht Frères Pinot Gris Muhlforst 2000 Alsace
This family owned domaine has 55 ha overlooking Hunawihr and Ribeauvillé. Vines are cultivated organically, with some under biodynamics. Deep coloured. Quite a fat herby nose which is varietally true with some bacon fat character. Lovely rich-texture, almost fat palate with lots of richness. Dry but with a little residual sugar. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£12.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)  

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk