Recommended wines: July 2004

July 2004

My rating system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com to locate a stockist in your area and my directory of UK wine merchants for details of those listed here. See also: the wineanorak's shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail outlets. These recommendations are truly independent: I don't accept payment or other favours for inclusions, nor do I sell wine.

Olivier Merlin Pouilly Fuissé Terroir de Chaintré 2001 Burgundy, France
Very expressive, full classical nose is herby, minerally and intense. The palate is concentrated and savoury with good balance. This is pretty serious white Burgundy, and while it's expensive for Pouilly Fuissé, its definitely worth the extra cost. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£22 Berry Bros & Rudd)

Boisset Bourgogne Chardonnay 2002 Burgundy, France
Another Burgundy, but from the other end of the spectrum. What am I doing recommending a £6 Bourgogne Chardonnay from one of Burgundy's largest negociants? Well, it's actually pretty sophisticated, and this probably reflects the rising standard in inexpensive Burgundy over the last few years. Slightly herby, nutty nose is very appealing and leads to a palate that's savoury, rounded and nutty. Very good+ 88/100 (£5.99 Waitrose)

Quinta de Simaens 2003 Vinho Verde, Portugal
Not the best Vinho Verde, but a perfectly acceptable one: I'm recommending it because it's an ideal summer wine, versatile and fresh with zippy acidity. Intense, grassy and fresh, this shows good typicity even it it's a little neutral. Very good Vinho Verdes do exist, but they are more expensive than this and very hard to find. Very good 84/100 (Waitrose £5.49)

Pedra Feliz Pinot Noir 2001 Casablanca, Chile
A collaboration between Michel Laroche and Jorge Corderch, this is by far the best Chilean Pinot Noir I've yet tried. A palish colour (not a bad thing with Pinot) it has an almost overpowering ripe nose of cherry liqueur. The palate is rich, ripe, sweet and very smooth. It's a deliciously rich and spicy new world style Pinot, but very well balanced at the same time. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£9.99 Sainsbury, Waitrose)

Domaine du Cros Marcillac 2002 Southwest France
Marcillac is a small appellation in Southwest France, and the grape here is Fer Servadou. Deep coloured. Intensely savoury, gravely, minerally nose with a smoky, earthy character to the dark raspberry fruits. The palate is savoury, dense and firm with intense spicy, tarry black fruits and a bloody, earthy character. Sensational stuff, and a perfect food wine. Very good/excellent 90/100 (This is one of the July wines of the month at Café Rouge, where it is £12.95, but you can buy it from Les Caves Pyrene, who have a retail shop in Guildford and do mail order, price around £6. A fantastic bargain.)

Château Coutet 1997 Barsac, Bordeaux, France
I don't drink enough Sauternes (or Barsac). This is a brilliant example, with a lovely aromatic nose of apricot, honey and melon. The palate is richly textured with sweet herby fruit and subtle notes of almonds and caramel, with a citrussy marmaladey edge. Lovely balance and richness. Very good/excellent 94/100 (£32 Corney & Barrow)

JL Chave Hermitage 2001 Northern Rhône, France
Few will be privileged enough to drink this wine, which is probably consistently the best expression of Northern Rhône Syrah made, but I had to include it. Very fine floral aromatic nose with pure raspberry fruit and a spicy minerally depth. There are some animal notes in the background. The palate is perfectly balanced with good acidity and spice. Chewy and structured with brilliant balance and lovely acidity. Excellent 97/100 (UK agent is Yapp, but this will have sold out by now and will only be available from brokers. Look on www.wine-searcher.com, and the price will be around £100 per bottle, alas. Fantastic quality, high demand and relatively low production are to blame.)

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk