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August 2004

Previous months' recommendations: July 2003 | August 2003 | September 2003 | October 2003 | November 2003 | December 2003 | January 2004 | February 2004 | March 2004 | April 2004 | May 2004 | June 2004 | July 2004

My rating system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com to locate a stockist in your area and my directory of UK wine merchants for details of those listed here. See also: the wineanorak's shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail outlets. These recommendations are truly independent: I don't accept payment or other favours for inclusions, nor do I sell wine.

Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2003 Minho, Portugal
From Vinho Verde country, Pedro Araujo's wines are exceptional. He makes around 50 000 bottles of this varietal Loureiro, and 8000 bottles of his top wine (Escolha). I tried this in a restaurant in Porto and it was fantastic, but I didn't take notes. The 2002 versions of both wines were fresh, herby, concentrated yet elegant and showed great balance - I rated them at 92/100 when I tried them in April. Corney & Barrow have listed the 2003 and I fully recommend it. (£8.34 Corney & Barrow)

Xerolithia 2003 Peza, Crete
Made from the Vilana grape, this is a good cheapie from Oddbins. Fresh, delicate fruity nose with a limey edge. The palate is savoury and quite bright with some herbal notes in the background. Precise, bright white wine ideal for summer sipping. Very good+ 88/100 (£5.49 Oddbins)

Château La Fessadière 2003 Muscadet, Loire, France
Super, full flavoured, herb-tinged white with bags of fresh fruit. This organic Muscadet is a complete steal at this price. Good concentration and lots of flavour. Very good+ 88/100 (£4.99 Sainsbury)

The Observatory Syrah 2001 Swartland, South Africa
Tom Lubbe is making some stunning wines, both in South Africa and also the Roussillon (previously at Gauby, now at newcomer Matassa). He works as naturally as possible, and achieves balance by working in the vineyards to achieve phenolic ripeness without excessive potential alcohol levels. This is a fascinating wine. It has a taut, intense savoury spicy nose with smoky complexity to the ripe fruit. There's a concentrated, chewy spicy earthy core to the rich bold fruit. A lovely complex, savoury wine that can't be pigeonholed. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£22.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)

Arranoa Irouleguy 2001 South West France
Irouleguy is a small appellation in Basque country in the Pyrenees, and this example comes from the Vignerons du Pays Basque. It's a striking inky dark colour. The nose is dark, savoury and intense with spicy black fruits dominating. The palate is spicy and earthy with good acidity and very firm tannins. Extremely intense and tight wound, but with a lovely fruit quality and quite a bit of minerality. Very individual and quite challenging. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£9.50 Nicolas) 

Gobelsburg Estate St Laurent 2002 Kamptal, Austria
This is a very interesting Austrian red wine from Schloss Gobelsburg in Austria's Kamptal. It's a bit like a Burgundy Pinot Noir, with added herbiness. Quite a fragrant nose of leafy, herby red berry fruit with a delicate, fresh edge and some underpinning complexity. The palate is savoury and fresh with lovely herbiness. Chewy, spicy finish. Light, tasty and moreish. Very good+ 89/100 (£9.99 Marks & Spencer)

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk