August 2004
Previous months' recommendations: July
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2004
My rating
system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com
to locate a stockist in your area and my directory
of UK wine merchants for details of those listed here. See also: the wineanorak's
shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail
outlets. These recommendations are truly independent: I don't accept
payment or other favours for inclusions, nor do I sell wine.
Quinta do Ameal
Loureiro 2003 Minho, Portugal
From Vinho Verde country, Pedro Araujo's wines are exceptional. He
makes around 50 000 bottles of this varietal Loureiro, and 8000 bottles of
his top wine (Escolha). I tried this in a restaurant in Porto and it was
fantastic, but I didn't take notes. The 2002 versions of both wines were
fresh, herby, concentrated yet elegant and showed great balance - I rated
them at 92/100 when I tried them in April. Corney & Barrow have listed
the 2003 and I fully recommend it. (£8.34 Corney & Barrow)
Xerolithia 2003 Peza,
Crete
Made from the Vilana grape, this is a good cheapie from Oddbins.
Fresh, delicate fruity nose with a limey edge. The palate is savoury and
quite bright with some herbal notes in the background. Precise, bright
white wine ideal for summer sipping. Very good+ 88/100 (£5.49 Oddbins)
Château La
Fessadière 2003 Muscadet, Loire, France
Super, full flavoured, herb-tinged white with bags of fresh fruit.
This organic Muscadet is a complete steal at this price. Good
concentration and lots of flavour. Very good+ 88/100 (£4.99 Sainsbury)
The Observatory
Syrah 2001 Swartland, South Africa
Tom Lubbe is making some stunning wines, both in South Africa and also
the Roussillon (previously at Gauby, now at newcomer Matassa). He works as
naturally as possible, and achieves balance by working in the vineyards to
achieve phenolic ripeness without excessive potential alcohol levels. This
is a fascinating wine. It has a taut, intense savoury spicy nose with
smoky complexity to the ripe fruit. There's a concentrated, chewy spicy
earthy core to the rich bold fruit. A lovely complex, savoury wine that
can't be pigeonholed. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£22.95 Berry Bros &
Rudd)
Arranoa Irouleguy
2001 South West France
Irouleguy is a small appellation in Basque country in the Pyrenees,
and this example comes from the Vignerons du Pays Basque. It's a striking
inky dark colour. The nose is dark, savoury and intense with spicy black
fruits dominating. The palate is spicy and earthy with good acidity and
very firm tannins. Extremely intense and tight wound, but with a lovely
fruit quality and quite a bit of minerality. Very individual and quite
challenging. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£9.50 Nicolas)
Gobelsburg Estate St
Laurent 2002 Kamptal, Austria
This is a very interesting Austrian red wine from Schloss Gobelsburg
in Austria's Kamptal. It's a bit like a Burgundy Pinot Noir, with added
herbiness. Quite a fragrant nose of leafy, herby red berry fruit with a
delicate, fresh edge and some underpinning complexity. The palate is
savoury and fresh with lovely herbiness. Chewy, spicy finish. Light, tasty
and moreish. Very good+ 89/100 (£9.99 Marks & Spencer)
E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions
at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk
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