Reliable, independent buying advice from the wine anorak
October 2003

Wines under £8 | Wines over £8

Previous months' recommendations: September 2002 | October 2002 | November 2002 | December 2002 | January 2003 | February 2003 | March 2003 | April 2003 | May 2003 | June 2003 | July 2003 | August 2003 | September 2003 

My rating system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com to locate a stockist in your area. See also: the wineanorak's shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail outlets.

Bargain picks   

Beyerskloof Pinotage 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Reknowned winemaker Beyers Truter is one of the partners in this operation, which unusually for South Africa makes both estate wines and brands made from brought in grapes. Beyers is an expert with Pinotage, which is the focus of production here, and this is a good example of what this grape is about. You'll either love or loathe the distinctive herbal, slightly cheesy edge to the fruity nose. On the palate ripe red fruits dominate. Interesting, savoury and a touch rustic. Very good+ (£5.99 Majestic)

Château Planèzes Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2000 France
From old vineyards on schistous slopes in the Roussillon, here's a wine with a lovely sense of place to it. Sweet berry and black fruits on the nose are quite enticing, leading to a concentrated palate showing rich, spicy fruit with a savoury edge. Very good+ (£6.99 Marks & Spencer)

Excelsior Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Robertson, South Africa
An appealing bargain-priced Sauvignon. There's a hint of smoky minerality to the fresh, grassy nose. The palate shows a nice density of grassy fruit. More character here than you'd expect for the price. Very good+ (£4.99 Sainsbury)

Wines over £8

Peter Lehmann Reserve Riesling 1997 Eden Valley, Australia
This is a brilliantly forward, intense style of Riesling that is showing some benefit from its six years' bottle age. Striking full nose shows intense, aromatic citrussy fruit. Great concentration on the palate which displays a toasty edge to the vivid, savoury fruit. Fresh acidity keeps things lively. Very good/excellent (£9.99 Sainsbury at sainsbury.co.uk/wine)

Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage 2001 Northern Rhône, France
One of the leading producers in Crozes Hermitage, Graillot has fashioned a seductive fruit forward wine in the 2001 vintage that is excellent value at £10.99. There's a slightly creamy edge to the vivid raspberry fruit nose, which is pure and ripe. The palate is intense  with vivid raspberry fruit and a slightly meaty, olive-like edge. Good acidity - a modern wine that still retains a sense of typicity. Very good/excellent (£10.99 Sainsbury at sainsbury.co.uk/wine).  

Kumala Winemaker's Selection Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Western Cape, South Africa
I wasn't expecting a great deal from this wine - an upmarket brand from an undefined vineyard source ('Western Cape' is a catch-all encompassing the vast majority of  South Africa's winelands) - but I try to be open-minded, and was actually very impressed. It shows a sweet, cinnamon-spiced nose with rich fruit and a chocolatey, tarry edge. Very smooth and accessible. The palate is surprisingly elegant with smooth, sweetly spiced fruit and elegant tannins. Good concentration, but the winemakers have clearly been aiming at elegance rather than raw power. Impressively crafted, this is a high quality red. Very good/excellent (£9.99 Threshers)

William Fevre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2000 Burgundy, France
This is a brilliant example of Chablis at its best, and its drinking very well now with a few years of bottle age. Quite an assertive, savoury nose with notes of herbs, straw and lemons. The palate is quite concentrated and savoury, showing a rich herby texture, good acid and some herby, waxy character. Tasty stuff with plenty of flavour. Very good/excellent (£11.99 Waitrose)

Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2000 Priorat, Spain
Sweet dark fruits on the nose with a liquoricey, herby edge. Midweight, spicy herby palate shows some minerality. It opens out to reveal rich raspberry fruit with some ripe, herby complexity after a while. Smooth yet firm tannins. Not a big wine but quite an expressive and elegant one which may well develop over the next few years. Very good/excellent (£11.99 Majestic)

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk