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January 2005

Previous months' recommendations: December 2003 | January 2004 | February 2004 | March 2004 | April 2004 | May 2004 | June 2004 | July 2004 | August 2004 | September 2004 | October 2004 | November 2004 | December 2004

My rating system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com to locate a stockist in your area and my directory of UK wine merchants for details of those listed here. See also: the wineanorak's shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail outlets. These recommendations are truly independent: I don't accept payment or other favours for inclusions, nor do I sell wine.

Palacio de Bornos Verdejo 2003 Rueda, Spain
This is one of my favourite inexpensive whites. The 2003 is a little plumper than the preceding vintage, but still very nice. It shows an appealing, rich, grassy/herby nose which leads to a rich, rounded fruity palate with lovely fruit and a savoury finish. Very good+ 88/100 (£5.49 Waitrose)

Trio Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Cabernet Franc 2002 Maipo, Chile
The first of a couple of Chilean recommendations this month. This intense red has a lovely dark chocolate and spice character to the fruity nose. The palate is rich, bold and spicy with lovely intensity of pure fruit: dark and spicy and very tasty. Very good+ 89/100 (£5.99 Tesco)

VOE Novas Syrah Mourvèdre 2003 Central Valley, Chile
From Chile’s first large scale organic producer (winemaker Alvaro Espinoza is working with biodynamic principles but isn’t certified yet), this is a very attractive wine. It has an intense, ripe, sweet nose with lots of spicy, liquoricey fruit and a savoury twist. The palate is chewy and spicy with lovely vivid fruit. Pure and concentrated – and quite delicious. Look out also for the 2002 Coyam from this producer, which is a little more expensive but probably worth it. Very good+ 89/100 (£7.99 Vintage Roots)

Domaine Evarhis Assyrtiko 2003 Gerania Attica, Greece
This is a varietal Assyrtiko that spends 4 months in French oak, from the 37 hectare Domaine Evarhis. It has a modern nose of fresh fruit with notes of herbs and some toasty, creamy oak. On the palate there is a nice tension between the bright fruit and the sophisticated oak overlay. Good acidity makes this a nicely balanced white of some class. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£7.99 Eclectic Wines, www.eclecticwines.com)

Oremus Tokaji Mandolas Dry Furmint 2002 Hungary
Oremus is under the same ownership as Spain’s Vega Sicilia, and this is a fascinating example of Tokaji as a dry wine. It has an almost wild, open, expressive herb-tinged nose, which leads to a palate that is softly textured, herby, nutty and open. Lovely waxy herby fruit dominates. Very distinctive, lovely and – best of all – affordable. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£8.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)

Rustenberg Chardonnay 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
South Africa does these sorts of Chardonnays really well: they are rich without being overdone, and although the oak makes an impact, I find they are rarely dominated by it to the point that it’s a problem. This has a deep colour and the nose is sophisticated and rich, showing herby, nutty fruit. The palate is very rich, but there’s a nice integration of the oak with the herby fruit, creating a very rounded wine. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£9.99 Waitrose)

Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale 2001 Northern Rhône, France
Robert Michel seems to be doing good things with his 7 ha holding in Cornas, if this wine is anything to go by. From vines planted in 1910, this has a fantastic, intense, liqueur-like meaty Syrah nose, with some olive-like character. The palate is midweight and savoury with fresh high-acid intensity and good definition to the raspberry-like fruit. Very expressive and savoury 92/100 (£24.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)

Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira 2002 Mendoza, Argentina
South America’s best wine yet? By some distance, I’d say. From an Argentinean–Italian partnership, this is a red wine of style and substance. Incredibly opulent nose with sweet, pure blackcurrant and raspberry fruit leads to a palate that is full, spicy and rich with massively concentrated, expressive fruit and a spicy finish. Amazing stuff. 6000 bottles made, and it will be around £40 from Corney and Barrow. Excellent 95/100

Achaval Ferrer Quimera 2002 Mendoza, Argentina
If you can’t afford or get hold of the wine above, then Achaval Ferrer’s Quimera is almost as good for half the price. It’s a blend of Malbec, Cabernet and Merlot from high vineyards (730–1100 metres above sea level). Enticing aromatic nose of dark fruits: sweet and complex with spicy, tarry elements. The palate is quite lush, open and expressive with some earthy, minerally notes adding complexity to the ripe but balanced dark fruits. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£20.80 Corney & Barrow)

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk