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tasting notes
Bordeaux

overview
Are you rich? Then you might like to explore Bordeaux, the world's most famous wine region and home to some of the world's most aristocratic wines. But you'll need to have deep pockets, because there is no getting round the fact that Bordeaux is expensive. The easiest way to understand Bordeaux is to split it into the left and right banks of the Gironde estuary, around which this huge region is arranged. On the left bank are the Médoc and Graves regions, which produce some of the most celebrated wines in the world from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. At the top of the price and quality pyramid are the classed growths from the appellations of St Julien, Pauillac, St Estèphe, Margaux, Pessac Léognan and Graves. On the right bank are found St Emilion and also the small appellation of Pomerol, which is home to super-expensive 'cult' wines such as Petrus, Lafleur and Le Pin. As if this was not enough, the Sauternes region, just south of the Médoc, produces stunning sweet white wines. However, fine wines such as these only represent a tiny proportion of the output of Bordeaux: as well as producing some of the world's greatest wines it also makes some of the worst. Each year a wine-lake full of thin, hard, miserable wines flows from many of the lesser properties, much of it finding its way onto supermarket shelves. The generally poor value for money of these wines has devalued the image of Bordeaux in the eyes of many consumers. In fact, it's hard work finding an interesting wine from Bordeaux that costs less than a tenner.

(Prices and stockists in the UK are listed in brackets; as a rough guide £1 = US$1.50. Date of tasting is indicated by month/year at the end of the note.)

See also: 

Château Le Boscq 2005 Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux
The nose here is perhaps slightly reductive, with a hint of rubber and some roasted notes (or is that from the oak?). The palate, though, is fresh and dense with well proportioned, ripe, slightly chocolatey dark fruits, as well as firm tannins and some supporting oak. It’s dense but not at all heavy, with some minerality and plenty of upside potential for the patient. 89/100 (£17.39 Sunday Times Wine Club, Laithwaites) 04/08

Château Pey de la Tour Reserve 2005 Bordeaux Supérieur
95% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot, so pretty much varietal Merlot. This is pretty impressive for the price. It’s dense, tight and firm at the moment, with the ripe dark fruits somewhat clamped by firm tannins and good acidity. But there’s lots of weight here, and plenty of charm waiting to emerge. I reckon this is one to hold onto for a couple of years, although you could drink it now with food. It’s proper Bordeaux, without the greenness and unresolved tannins that are the besetting sins of many wines at this price point. 88/100 (£8.99 Waitrose, The Wine Society) 04/08

Dourthe Barrel Select Saint-Émilion 2005 Bordeaux
70% Merlot blended with 30% Cabernets (Franc and Sauvignon). Fresh nose is quite classic, with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit along with herbal, subtly green notes. The palate has a distinctive minerally, chalky, slightly herbaceous streak alongside the fruit, which makes it very fresh and savoury. It’s a good food wine, but for me (and I’m probably being fussy here) the tannins are just a little too green, and the fruit just a little short of ripeness for this to really hit the spot. But it isn’t unripe, and there’s some class here, although I think Dourthe do better for the price elsewhere. 82/100 (£8.99 Waitrose, £9.46 Tesco) 04/08

Cabernet Franc sample from Calvet Reserve 2005 Bordeaux
In 2005 some Cabernet Franc found its way into the Calvet Reserve blend, and this is a sample of it. Smells a bit funky (as tank samples often do, with some oxidation) on the nose, but the palate shows lovely dense, tight, ripe red fruit character with lovely firm structure. Pretty good stuff, and a bit of a shame to see it in a bigger blend – it’s a really nice wine in its own right. 04/08

Calvet Reserve Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Bordeaux, France
Pleasant sappy dark fruits nose with a slightly green edge. It’s savoury and fresh. The palate shows some ripe red fruit character, together with a leafy, chalky greenness that isn’t unpleasant. There’s some firm tannic structure on the palate, which is overtly savoury. For negociant Bordeaux at this price it is a good effort: if you are used to reds with sweet fruit and soft tannins, this might come as a bit of a shock. I reckon it’s a good session claret, and with food you could drink this quite happily. Top marks for the packaging, though – it’s a nice bottle shape and the label design is quite classy. 82/100 (£6.99 Waitrose, Co-op, Sainsbury’s) 04/08

Château Lapelletrie 2005 Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux
70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, from a 12 hectare vineyard. Quite deep coloured. Aromatic, with attractive blackberry and blackcurrant fruit on the nose, framed with a nice chalkiness. The palate shows ripe red and black fruits combining well with firm, spicy tannins. There’s some softness here, as well as a bit of sweetness to the fruit, which in combination with the slightly grippy structure makes for a very self-assured, versatile and food friendly Saint Emilion. This is pretty serious for the price. 89/100 (£11.99 Tesco) 04/08

Château Tour Prignac 2005 Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, Bordeaux
A roughly equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from a 147 hectare estate. I like the nose, which is quite classic. There’s some smoky, earthy, tarry red fruit along with a subtle gravelliness. The palate already shows some evolution, with lovely balance between the sweet fruit and the slightly earthy, minerally savouriness. Drinking well now, although with potential for development over the next couple of years. I guess this is what most people come to Bordeaux for: something digestible and approachable that shows some character but isn’t too heavy. 86/100 (£9.99 Oddbins) 04/08

Château d’Arcins 2005 Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon from a 100 hectare vineyard. Very attractive nose, showing some evolution. It’s fresh, gravelly and attractively fruited, with some warm plummy blackberry fruit. The palate has soft, ripe fruit bolstered by grippy, minerally structure and a hint of oak. A really approachable wine: a classic claret for current drinking, but don’t hold on to this in the hope of improvement – it’s nice now. 87/100 (£13.50 Nicolas) 04/08  

Château De La Ligne Cuvée Prestige 2005 Bordeaux Supérieur
This property, with 11 hectares of vines planted in 2002, is owned by Northern Irish businessman Terry Cross (read about the project here). It comes in a heavy, broad-shouldered bottle. The fresh nose shows some fresh red fruits with a bit of tarry spiciness – some American oak was used here as well as French. The palate is bright with super-fresh red berry fruits and a bit of spice, but the dominant theme here is the firm tannic structure and high acidity, giving the wine an almost austere, savoury feel. While I like the freshness of the fruit, and the ample concentration, there’s not enough charm here - and far too much structure - for this to be an enjoyable drink at the moment. It may well blossom, however, with a decade in the cellar – hard to tell. Considering that the vines are still young, it’s a good performance. 85/100 05/08

Château Barreyres 2005 Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
Given a couple of hours of air, this wine opens out to show a classic, attractive Bordeaux nose of subtly leafy, minerally blackcurrant and red berry fruit. The palate is beginning to evolve a little, showing soft green spicy notes underneath the fruit, held together with some tannic structure and good acidity. A balanced, well proportioned claret beginning to enter its drinking phase, and offering good value. Drink now and over the next couple of years? 86/100 (£8.75 Sainsbury’s) 05/08

Diane de Belgrave 2005 Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
The second wine of fifth growth Château Belgrave, this has a really attractive nose showing dark fruits, minerals, olives and spice. The palate shows generous, rich blackcurrant and raspberry fruit backed up by spicy, mineralic structure. There’s some elegance here, and it isn’t as square and tannic as some of the other 2005s I have been tasting of late. Stylish stuff that’s beginning to be approachable now. Drink now and over the next three years? 89/100 (£11.99 Majestic) 05/08

Chateau Haut Bergeron Sauternes 2004 Bordeaux
Golden colour. Attractive sweet herbal nose with dried fruit, apricot, citrus peel and spice. The palate is viscous with citrus and barley sugar character as well as some appealing spiciness. A dense, mouthfilling sweet wine with some complexity. Deliciously rich. 90/100 (Asda £9.99/half) 07/08

Château Preuillac 2005 Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, Bordeaux
Very attractively packaged, this deep coloured wine has a slightly closed nose showing fresh blackcurrant fruit with some dark spice character. The palate is ripe and fresh, with a strongly savoury, gravelly, spicy streak, as well as some attractive chocolatey richness. The tannic structure is fairly dominant at the moment, and there’s good acidity, as well as a bit of oak. Tastes a bit tight and young at the moment, but there’s no reason to suppose that this won’t age well in the medium term. Finishes with dry, grippy tannins. Lose in the cellar for five years? 87/100 (£12.99 Soho Wine Supply) 05/08

Chateau Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac 2005 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux
14% alcohol. Sweet, open blackcurrant fruit with a bit of herbiness and some attractive minerality on the nose. The palate has classic dark fruits with a gravelly edge. This is ripe, balanced and quite elegant, with nice tannins, but it's not unapproachable. 90/100 05/08

Chateau La Clariere Laithwaite 2005 Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux
14.5% alcohol. Rich blackcurranty fruit on the nose with some chocolatey richness and spice, but to an extent this is closed. The palate is rich and spicy with sweet fruit and some alcoholic heat. A rich, ripe, modern-styled Claret that's a little closed now - needs time to open out. 88/100 (£14.99 Laithwaites) 05/08

Ulysse Cazabonne Pauillac 2005 Bordeaux
 This negociant wine is declassified from a top Pauillac property, and it's quite a serious effort. It's dark, minerally, savoury and gravelly with a tight structure and good acidity. The focused dark fruits and firm tannic depth make this quite challenging without food, but I really like it - it tastes like left bank Bordeaux should taste, and while it will probably age nicely over the next five years, I'm enjoying it now. 90/100 (£15.49 Averys)  02/08

Château Belgrave 1996 Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France
 Fifth growth Belgrave is owned by Dourthe. This 1996 is ageing beautifully, with earthy, spicy, almost tarry notes coupled with nicely dense black fruits and some minerally notes. I’d say it was probably peaking now, with soft tannins and an attractive aromatic warm herby sort of character. Classic Médoc in a traditional style; drink now. 90/100 04/08

Château Marsau 2006 Côtes de Francs, Bordeaux
 A property owned by the Chadronniers of Dourthe fame. It’s a powerful, modern-styled Bordeaux that weighs in at 14.5%. The nose is intense with ripe dark fruits and chocolatey, spicy, slightly roasted notes. The palate is super-concentrated with ripe, tight dark fruits and firm, spicy tannins. There’s lots of impact, but it needs some time to show what it’s really capable of. Not over-the-top, but a very rich, modern style that’s initially quite seductive and impressive. 89/100 04/08

Château Le Boscq 2005 Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux
The nose here is perhaps slightly reductive, with a hint of rubber and some roasted notes (or is that from the oak?). The palate, though, is fresh and dense with well proportioned, ripe, slightly chocolatey dark fruits, as well as firm tannins and some supporting oak. It’s dense but not at all heavy, with some minerality and plenty of upside potential for the patient. 89/100  (£17.39 Sunday Times Wine Club, Laithwaites) 04/08

Château Pey de la Tour Reserve 2005 Bordeaux Supérieur
 95% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot, so pretty much varietal Merlot. This is pretty impressive for the price. It’s dense, tight and firm at the moment, with the ripe dark fruits somewhat clamped by firm tannins and good acidity. But there’s lots of weight here, and plenty of charm waiting to emerge. I reckon this is one to hold onto for a couple of years, although you could drink it now with food. It’s proper Bordeaux, without the greenness and unresolved tannins that are the besetting sins of many wines at this price point. 88/100 (£8.99 Waitrose, The Wine Society) 04/08

Dourthe Barrel Select Saint-Émilion 2005 Bordeaux
 70% Merlot blended with 30% Cabernets (Franc and Sauvignon). Fresh nose is quite classic, with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit along with herbal, subtly green notes. The palate has a distinctive minerally, chalky, slightly herbaceous streak alongside the fruit, which makes it very fresh and savoury. It’s a good food wine, but for me (and I’m probably being fussy here) the tannins are just a little too green, and the fruit just a little short of ripeness for this to really hit the spot. But it isn’t unripe, and there’s some class here, although I think Dourthe do better for the price elsewhere. 82/100 (£8.99 Waitrose, £9.46 Tesco) 04/08

Cabernet Franc sample from Calvet Reserve 2005 Bordeaux
 In 2005 some Cabernet Franc found its way into the Calvet Reserve blend, and this is a sample of it. Smells a bit funky (as tank samples often do, with some oxidation) on the nose, but the palate shows lovely dense, tight, ripe red fruit character with lovely firm structure. Pretty good stuff, and a bit of a shame to see it in a bigger blend – it’s a really nice wine in its own right. 04/08

Château La Garde Blanc 2006 Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux
 Graves whites have a noble tradition, and this is quite a serious effort. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. The exuberantly fruity nose is quite distinctive, with grapefruit and tangerine notes. The palate is crisp with high acidity and mouthwateringly tangy citrus and clementine fruit, finishing with a bitter twist, as well as some vanilla oak. Classy, tight and in need of a bit of cellar time for all the components to integrate properly: a very distinctive wine. 90/100 04/08

Château La Vieille Cure Fronsac 2002 Bordeaux, France
I’d actually ordered the 2000 vintage of this wine, but Sainsbury delivered the 2002. I phoned customer services, and they said they did have some 2000 in stock, and they’d arrange an exchange. A month later they hadn’t, so I ended up losing patience and opened a bottle of the six that had been delivered. It’s pretty good, considering this is Bordeaux and it cost just a little more than £10. There’s some evident oak, but with it some rather stylish gravelly, minerally red and black fruit. Good concentration and nice definition are allied with nice but not too advanced ripeness levels. A solid Claret that may well age nicely over the next 3–5 years. 88/100 (£14.99 Sainsbury’s, on offer at 25% discount) 12/07

Chateau Senejac 2004 Cru Bourgeois, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux
Lovely nose shows some blackcurrant fruit but it's quite restrained, and not too fruity, with a balanced, complex earthy, gravelly, cigar box sort of character. Very smooth and elegant. The palate is earthy and spicy with good density of fruit. Midweight with some nice tannin and really good balance. A well proportioned sort of wine where nothing sticks out too much, and at this price a real bargain for Bordeaux. This sort of wine is what Bordeaux is all about. Very good+ 89/100 (£9.25 Waitrose) 04/07

Waitrose Saint-Emilion 2005 Bordeaux, France
In partnership with Hubert de Boüard and the Union de Producteurs de Saint-Emilion. This has a savoury, fresh, gravelly, earthy nose with a tight, quite tannic palate showing good density and high acidity. The overall result is extremely savoury and quite fresh: it really needs food to show its best. I quite like this digestible, semi-austere, food friendly style, but it could probably do with a little more richness to give balance. 86/100 (Waitrose) 09/07

Château Clauzet 2002 Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France
 A firm, savoury, gravelly nose leads to a bright, darkly fruited palate which displays savoury freshness and good acidity. It’s earthy and gravelly, and not overtly fruity. A classically styled claret with nice balance for drinking now and over the next few years. 86/100 (www.handpickedwines.co.uk) 03/07

Château La Côme 2001 Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France
 Evolved, savoury, earthy edge to the red and black fruits. This is fully mature and drinking well now with an appealing spicy earthy character and some grippy, drying tannins on the finish. Midweight and classically styled. 85/100 (www.handpickedwines.co.uk) 03/07

Château Picoron 2003 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
A really nicely judged, light, aromatic style of claret that’s drinking well now. The nose is quite open with dark fruits combining well with herbs, minerals and a hint of earthiness in a very nicely balanced way. The palate has some sweet fruit seamlessly interweaved with good acidity and a bit of earthy, gravelly structure. It’s not terribly concentrated or serious, but it’s balanced, highly drinkable and probably peaking now. The dry, slightly grippy finish makes this food friendly. 87/100 10/07

Château Pavie-Macquin 1997 Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux
So beautifully perfumed, it's almost Burgundian, even though this is classic Bordeaux. Therefs some gravelly minerality, a faint trace of tar, and tight red berry fruit, with an underlying earthiness. The palate shows savoury red fruits with some earthy tannic structure and good acidity. The wine has a lovely fresh feel to it, although the fact that the fruit seems to be beginning to recede a little makes me think this is one for drinking over the next couple of years. Tasting the wine again on day two confirms this. This is what we come to Bordeaux for, I reckon: complexity allied to balance allied to drinkability. Very good/excellent 90/100 (Will be featured in the forthcoming Bibendum sale, http://www.bibendum-wine.co.uk/) 02/07

Château Suduiraut 2001 Sauternes
This is fantastic. Wonderfully intense, full nose with apricot, lemon, spice and vanilla notes. The palate is broad and super-concentrated, showing complex, viscous apricotty, marmaladey fruit bolstered by good acidity and with some honey notes. Even at such an early stage itfs already a first-rate example of Sauternes and is potentially immortal. Excellent 95/100 12/06

Château Lynch Bages 1973 Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Earthy, evolved nose with herbs, soy sauce and burnt wood notes. The palate is dense and rich with a burnt wood character. Very spicy and earthy; still some fruit here. Drinkable if you like old wine. Very good+ 86/100 02/06

Les Tourelles de Longueville 2003 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Quite deep coloured. Sweet but slightly muted nose showing ripe dark fruits and a hint of gravelly minerality. It's quite refined without being terribly vocal. The palate is smooth and ripe with a good weight of red and black fruits, together with some smooth structure. Quite modern in style and lacking real depth and intensity, but still nicely balanced and very polished. It's a BMW 3-series rather than a Porsche Carrera. I reckon this will provide satisfying rather than thrilling drinking over the next few years. I guess my note is beginning to sound a little ambiguous: this is a stylish, ripe Claret, but it just lacks a bit of excitement for me. Very good+ 89/100 (£17.99 in the Bibendum sale) 03/07

Valandraud 1994 St Emilion, Bordeaux (Tasted blind)
Soft, smooth nose with a nice minerally edge to it. Refined, ripe and classy, showing sweet fruit and minerally complexity. The palate is quite spicy with lovely soft tannic structure and just a hint of greenness. There’s a bit of chalkiness, too, with some Bordeaux-style pencil lead character. Very good/excellent 92/100 11/06

Château Le Pin 1988 Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
Serious right bank Bordeaux here. Sweet fruit with a smooth earthy edge. The palate shows more sweet fruit with a bright expressive character and a bit of leafiness. It’s a midweight wine that is fluently expressive, with a lightness to its personality. Very good/excellent 94/100 11/06

Château Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac 1976 Bordeaux, France
Quite firm, almost medicinal edge to the nose which is a bit smoky and quite complex. The palate is firm, evolved and quite earthy. Savoury and full, with nice density and a spicy, drying finish. An old wine that’s hanging in there quite well. Very good+ 88/100 11/06

Château Filhot 1935 Sauternes, Bordeaux, France
Apricotty, fresh, tangy and lemony – very evolved. Powerful palate with intense tangy flavours. Complex stuff with real interest. It certainly has some age on it, but it doesn’t taste like a 70 year old wine. Very good/excellent 93/100 11/06

Château Coutet 1994 Barsac, France
Lovely deep orange and apricot nose with some boiled sweets and barley sugar notes. The palate is sweet, soft and spicy with richly textured, apricotty fruit. Deliciously full and approachable, with a nice spicy finish. Very good/excellent 92/100 04/06

Calvet Aetios 2003 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France
This is a serious effort: a single-vineyard Merlot from a 4 hectare block. It has a nice spicy edge to the ripe dark fruit, with an earthy, spicy mineralic structure and some drying tannins on the finish. Lovely blackcurrant fruit on the nose. A tightly structured wine that opens out with some time to reveal nice inky fruit with some richness. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£14.99 Waitrose) 11/05

Château d'Arcins Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois 2002 Bordeaux, France
 This is good claret at under a tenner - a rare beast. Dark, minerally, gravelly nose of savoury blackcurrant fruit, which has a nice earthy edge. The palate is midweight, minerally and shows a nice balance between the dark fruits and the savoury, gravelly structure. This is a satisfying wine that is drinking well now: it isn't big, but it's well proportioned. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£9.49 Oddbins) 11/05

Château Gruaud Larose 1999 St Julien, Bordeaux
Lots of interest here: it’s dark, rich and earthy with a bit of farmyard in the background, together with some minerally spiciness. Quite tannic, dark and earthy on the palate with good acidity. Some spice and chocolate complement the red and black fruits. This is fairly serious stuff with a future ahead of it. Very good/excellent 92/100 12/05  

Château La Fleur Peyrabon 2003 Pauillac, Bordeaux
This is a nicely refined, classic Claret. Dark coloured, it has an attractive nose of sweet dark fruit with some chocolatey richness and subtly tarry, roasted, gravelly definition. It smells fresh. The palate is supple and midweight with an earthy, gravelly edge to the bright, sweet dark fruits. There’s really good balance here. Fresh and supple; very digestible. Very good/excellent (c£15, Millesima) 01/07

Château Cheval Blanc 1986
Beautifully perfumed nose: aromatic, with nice spicy, smooth fruit and an elegant leafy edge. The palate is savoury and elegant with lovely spicy structure. Really nicely poised. Excellent 95/100 10/05

Château Tassin 1eres Cotes de Bordeaux 20003 Bordeaux, France
Light, fruity and slightly sappy. Simple but joyless, although it is savoury and digestible. OK 74/100 08/06  

Château La Rousselle 2000 Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
High-toned spicy, roast coffee edge to the restrained dark fruits nose. The palate is savouy and quite classic with some sweetness to the ripe fruit, but the overall impression is that of a tight, savoury wine with good structure, acidity and an earthy, spicy edge. Nicely proportioned this is a food friendly style. Very classic. Very good+ 88/100 (Cadman Fine Wines) 03/05  

Château Vieux Pourret 1998 St Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France
A delightful claret drinking perfectly. There’s some minerally, gravelly, leafy, savoury complexity on the nose. The palate is quite light but perfectly poised with red fruits and a savoury, earthy structure. Very good+ 89/100 03/06

Château Louvie 2002 St Emilion, Bordeaux, France
An attractive nose of savoury blackcurrant and red fruits with some earthiness and subtle roasted oak. The palate is balanced with blackcurrant fruit sweetness (not too much, though) good acidity and noticeable (although not obtrusive) oak. Savoury and spicy. Balance is the key here: a delicious claret. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£14.99 Cadman Fine Wines) 05/05

Château Veyry 2001 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France
Subtle rounded edge to the firm dark fruits nose. Quite tight and tannic with a good density of dark fruits and good acidity. I like the structure here, which is coupled with classy oak and dense dark fruit. Roasted, slightly coffee-ish edge. Quite sophisticated and modern this is a very savoury food wine that needs time. Very good+ 89/100 (£19.99 Cadman Fine Wines) 03/05

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge 1996 Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux
Lovely open nose with a spectacularly chalky, mineralic edge to the herbaceous fruit. Broad palate with spicy character and bold fruit. Nice savoury, minerally structure. Very good/excellent 92/100 07/04

Château Figeac 1986 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux
Quite an evolved leathery, earthy spicy nose which is complex and full. The palate shows dense, spicy, firm minerally character. Quite full and structured this is drinking very well now. Very good/excellent 93/100 07/04

Château Pontet Canet 1996 Pauillac, Bordeaux
 Very nicely structured with good acidity and a ripe, tarry, spicy edge to the fruit. Great balance here. Very good/excellent 91/100 07/04

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2001 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Lovely nose is spicy, rich and firm. Lots of black fruits with just a hint of greenness and some smoky, spicy oak. The palate is concentrated with lovely structure: there’s a bit of greenness but this is backing up the rich spicy, chocolatey fruit. Tannic finish. A lovely young wine. Very good/excellent 93/100 07/04

Château Pichon Longueville Baron 1996 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Delicious open nose: spicy and tarry with some savoury minerality. The palate is quite structured with firm tannins but also a good depth of fruit. Lovely structure.  Still quite youthful, but opening out a bit; quite a big, structured wine. Very good/excellent 93/100 07/04

Château Cos d’Estournel 1997 St Estèphe, Bordeaux
Quite an open, mineralic, chalky nose. The palate is structured and minerally, savoury and spicy. Drinking well now. Very good+ 89/100 07/04

Château Mouton Rothschild 1996 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Deep, intense, structured nose is tight, spicy and smoky. The palate is structured, bold and a little closed at the moment. Lovely minerality and structure: this is clearly a wine for the future. Very good/excellent 93/100  07/04

Château Pavillion Rouge de Margaux 1996 Margaux, Bordeaux
Earthy, spicy, slightly musty nose. Firm, structured palate is quite elegant. Very good+ 88/100 07/04

Château La Lagune 1967 Haut Medoc, Bordeaux
Quite fruity, very refined and still very much alive. Smooth complex nose of earthy gravely fruit, with a subtle herby, undergrowthy edge. The palate is perfectly balanced with savoury earthy fruit. It’s the balance here that is the key. Drinking perfectly. Very good/excellent 91/100 09/04

Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 1970 Sauternes, Bordeaux
A deep yellow brown colour. Rather muted nose. The palate is rich and quite savoury with evolved butterscotch, caramel and nut character. Quite a thick texture. Impressive in an evolved style. Herb and tea notes, too. Very good+ 89/100 09/04

Château Suduiraut 1997 Sauternes, Bordeaux
Slightly closed nose. Very taut, complex palate with rich apricot, caramel and lemon notes. Viscous, concentrated, sweet and smooth. Rounded and delicious. Very good/excellent 92/100 09/04

Château Palmer 1988 2eme Cru Classe Margaux, Bordeaux
Really appealing minerally nose with a touch of leafiness and some herbaceousness, together with a bit of chocolatey complexity. The palate is quite savoury and firm with spicy tannins and high acidity. Firm, a touch austere but with lots happening. Very good+ 87/100 09/03  

Château Phelan Segur 1996 St Estephe, Bordeaux
 Quite mature and drinking very nicely with good balance and a savoury, spicy, minerally edge. Fine grained tannins. Very good/excellent 90/100 11/03

Château Gruaud Larose 1997 St Julien, Bordeaux
 Open nose of blackcurrant fruit with a slight herbiness, some chalkiness and minerals. The palate is earthy and spicy with accessible black fruits and a touch of meatiness. Drinking nicely but with some time to go, still. Very good+ 89/100 11/03

Château Gruaud Larose 1982 2eme Cru Classe St Julien, Bordeaux
Deep coloured. Lovely complex nose is spicy, sweetly fruited and minerally. The palate is soft but dense with lovely minerality and  appealing spiciness. Great concentration. Drinking perfectly now but some of the people I’m with say this isn’t as good as recent bottles they’ve had. Very good/excellent 91/100 09/03

Château Leoville Barton 1986 2eme Cru Classe St Julien, Bordeaux
This traditionally styled Bordeaux is not showing a great deal on the nose. Very savoury and tight on the palate with firm tannins. Closed at the moment, this is one of those bottles that you'd like to try again in a few years time. Very good+ 86/100 09/03

Château Angélus 1995 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux
One of the top St Emilions from a good year. Dense, tarry, rich and spicy on the nose. The palate is firm and savoury. It’s very youthful in a rich, full style with lots of tannic structure and potential. Very good/excellent 91/100 09/03  

Château Barrail du Blanc 1999 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
Dark coloured. Quite a rich nose with a chocolate and roast coffee edge, together with dark fruits. Savoury, rich palate with a mineralic, earthy streak to the dark fruits. Good acidity. A well proportioned, balanced wine. Not exciting but a good solid wine. Very good+ 87/100 (Corney & Barrow ) 12/03

Château Doisy Daëne 2000 Sauternes 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Taut, intense herby nose. Viscous, rich palate is intensely sweet and rounded with a marmalade tang. Very intense and with great balance. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£11.99/half Waitrose) 04/03

Château Carsin Cuvée Prestige 2001 Bordeaux, France
A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc aged in new and one-year-old barriques. Very appealing toast, vanilla and brioche nose: oaky but classy. Savoury, toasty palate with lots of oak. Very good+ 87/100 (£7.99 Waitrose) 04/03

Château Patache d’Aux Cru Bourgeois Medoc 1996 Bordeaux
Quite a striking herby, spicy nose with some leafy, leathery complexity. The savoury palate is quite austere with a pronounced herbal character. Slightly medicinal and the fruit has dried up a bit. Might have been better younger. Very good+ 03/03

Château d’Yquem 1990 Sauternes 1er Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux
Deep yellow/orange. Complex and slightly restrained nose of herbs, honey and straw, with hints of vanilla and butterscotch. The palate is intense and waxy with lots of herbal complexity, and notes of caramel and toast. Seamless, well balanced and not overtly sweet this is a legendary wine to sip with reverence. Excellent (£200 Waitrose) 10/02  

Château Léoville Barton 1994 St Julien, Bordeaux
Classically structured, this is initially a tiny bit closed, but after a sort while the nose opens out to reveal minerally, spicy notes. The palate is savoury and structured with nice balance and some cedary complexity. What I like about this wine is its harmony and balance, although it could probably do with just a couple more years ageing. Very good/excellent 10/02

Château Rozier St Emilion Grand Cru 1999
Quite a concentrated, ripe wine with lots of blackcurranty fruit and a leafy, herby character. The chalky character on the palate is very appealing. Very good/excellent 03/03

Château Rollan de By 1995 Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, Bordeaux
Deep coloured, this has quite a closed nose initially. When coaxed, though, it reveals spicy, mineralic fruit with a hint of liquoricey richness. Very classic. The palate shows good concentration of tight herb-tinged berry and blackcurrant fruit with an earthy, chalky edge. Good acidity. This is quite serious but needs more time to open out. Very good+ (01/03)

Château La Vieille Cure 1989 Fronsac, Bordeaux
Every now again you open a bottle you’ve cellared for a while and find that it’s absolutely at its peak. This is one such example. Lovely fragrant nose is complex and cedary with notes of smoke, tar and chalkiness. Quite beguiling and classic. The palate shows midweight minerally black fruits well supported by firm spicy tannins. There’s a bit of green pepper character on the palate, but this is a brilliant effort. Very good/excellent (purchased in 1993 for £7.95 from Sainsbury) 11/02

Château Palmer 1983 Margaux 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux
Deep red/brown colour with a fading rim. Spicy, mineralic nose with some savoury herbal complexity. The palate is nicely evolved with firm, mineralic, earthy character. Drinking well now. Very good/excellent (£170 Waitrose) 10/02

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1989 Pauillac 2ème Cru Classé
Red/brown colour with a fading rim. Lovely mature claret nose with complex herby and minerally notes. Quite focused. Chewy, savoury palate with good structure and earthy, leathery, mineralic complexity. Very good/excellent (£110 Waitrose) 10/02

Château Leoville Poyferré 1973, St Julien, Bordeaux
An interesting wine that’s probably been kept a bit longer than it should have been. Sweetly spiced ‘old wine’ nose. Palate is mushroomy and spicy with an earthy, undergrowth character. A bit dried out, but still alive, just. Very good 05/02

Château Coufran 1997 Cru Bourgeois Haut-Medoc, France
Coufran is a large Cru Bourgeois (76 hectares of vineyard) located 3 miles north of the St-Estèphe boundary in the commune of St-Seurin-de-Cadbourne. Very deep red/purple. Striking nose of leafy-edged blackcurrant fruit with a strong mineral/cedar component. Palate is savoury with high acidity and a good concentration of leafy, almost herbaceous fruit. It’s lean and austere, but drinking well now with food. Typical of the 1997s but with a touch more structure than some. Very good (£9.95 Berry Bros) 03/02 

Château l’Abbaye de St-Ferme 2000, Bordeaux Supérieur
Deep coloured, with a chalky, mineral edge to the berry and black fruit nose. Satisfyingly rich, chunky, chalky-edged fruit on the palate, with good concentration. Very impressive for cheap Bordeaux. Very good+ (£5.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château Caronne St Gemme 1999, Haut Médoc
Focused, mineral-edged black fruits on the nose. Light but nicely balanced palate has high acidity and minerally fruit. Needs food. Very good+ (£9.99 Majestic) 10/02

Connétable de Talbot 1997 St Julien
The colour is beginning to fade just a little. Classic claret nose is quite evolved with leafy, spicy, chalky, cedary notes. Mineralic palate shows good acid and some tannic structure. Ideally needs food, but like a lot of 1997 clarets this is drinking brilliantly now. Very good/excellent (£9.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château Paveil de Luze 1997 Margaux Cru Bourgeois
Colour is fading a little. Sweet, herby fruit on the nose leads to a chunky, savoury palate with leafy edged, minerally berry fruit and good acidity. Drinking well now. Very good+ (£9.99 Majestic) 10/02

Moulin de la Lagune 1999, Haut Médoc
Dusty, spicy edge to the nose. Midweight palate shows spicy, slightly herby berry fruit and high acidity. Nice balance but a bit on the light side. (£10.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château Beau Site 1997 St Estephe
Forward nose with a rich tarry, herby streak is very appealing. Good concentration on the palate which is currently dominated by spicy berry fruit with some oaky richness. Attractive. Very good+ (£11.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château Grand Faurie Larose 1988 St Emilion Grand Cru
Focused spicy berry fruit on the nose. The palate is juicy and intense but currently a little austere. Very good (£12.99 Majestic) 10/02

Réserve de Léoville Barton 1998 St Julien
Deep coloured. Focused nose with tight blackcurrant fruit. Palate is still quite primary with vivid, juicy fruit and high acidity. Simple; needs time to develop some complexity. Very good (£14.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château La Fleur 1998 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé
This Merlot-dominated wine shows vivid juicy berry fruit on the nose, and minerally, savoury fruit on the palate. Good acidity. Lots of interest here but it needs food. Very good+ (£15.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château Lagrange 1997 Pomerol
Lovely intense chalky blackcurrant fruit on the nose, which is nicely mineralic. The palate is quite light in texture but with an expressive mineralic, high acid character. Drinking well now this is a beautifully poised food wine. Very good/excellent (£18.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château Corbin 1998 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé
Deep coloured. There’s a smoky edge to the leafy blackcurrant fruit on the nose. Good depth of fruit. Midweight palate is intensely juicy with rather primary fruit and good acidity. Needs time, and a tiny bit austere at the moment. Very good+ (£19.99 Majestic) 10/02

Château Poujeaux 2000, Moulis, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) Deep red purple colour, with an exotic, ripe nose showing menthol oak notes, an attractive spiciness and ripe fruit. Great concentration on the palate, with prominent and as yet unintegrated oak, firm tannins and a dry, spicy finish. A bit angular and lacks finesse, but superb concentration. Very good (£138 per case in bond = £14.88 per bottle after duty and VAT; these wines won’t be delivered until 2003, Bibendum) 11/01

Château La Clotte 2000, St Emilion, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) This is an impressive effort: classy, ripe and full. Deep purple colour. Palate shows very concentrated ripe fruit and a lovely herby character. Rich, complex, tannic palate shows very good intensity of spicy, herby fruit and unobtrusive oak. Very good/excellent (£18.02 per bottle incl. duty and VAT, Bibendum) 11/01

Château Beauregard 2000, Pomerol, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) Very deep red purple colour and showing great concentration. Exotic, striking nose of roast coffee, herbs and ripe fruit. Concentrated, rich palate with a herbal edge and assertive but fine grained tannins. Delicious stuff; full on and with a good future ahead of it. Very good/excellent (£27.05 per bottle incl. duty and VAT, Bibendum) 11/01

Château Clos Fourtet 2000, St Emilion, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) Red/purple colour with an inky intensity. Lush, herby nose with some ripe fruit. Firm, intense, concentrated palate is a little closed at the moment, but there’s lots of spicy, oaky, dense red berry fruit. Needs time. Very good+ (£31.53 per bottle incl. duty and VAT, Bibendum) 11/01

Château Bellevue 1997, St Emilion, Bordeaux
An attractive wine showing leafy, raspberry fruit with some chalky, spicy notes. Good acidity and balance. Very good 10/01

Sichel St Emilion (NV), Bordeaux
The bright fruit is recognizably Merlot influenced, dominated by leafy raspberry fruit and high acid. Nice enough, but quite a simple wine. Good 10/01

Château Cantermerle 1996 5eme Cru Classé, Haut Medoc
(Tasted blind, note as written) Red/black in colour, this is quite evolved. The lovely chalky, mineral nose shows red berry fruit and some smoky notes. Spicy berry fruit on the palate with some sweetness to it, this tastes reasonably evolved, with a nice mineraliness. The mineralic character leads me to Bordeaux, but the sweet berry fruit and evolved character suggests it's a restrained effort from the new world, which is what I plump for. Very good+ 08/01

Les Hauts de Pontet (second wine of Pontet-Canet) 1998, Pauillac
(Tasted blind, note as written) Very deep red/purple colour, with leafy, minerally notes on the nose. Quite restrained palate has firm, slightly green tannins with a chalky/minerally edge and some raspberry/blackcurrant fruit and high acidity. A touch austere. Hard to place: my guess is a Merlot- or Cabernet Franc-dominated wine from a lesser Bordeaux appellation. Very good 08/01

Château Pervenche-Puy-Arnauld 1998 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
Light, but with some attractive chalky tannins and good balance. Good/very good (£8.49 Majestic) 10/01

Château La Vieille Croix 1998 Fronsac, Bordeaux
Deep red/purple colour. Bright herby cherry fruit on the nose with some rich blackcurrant undertones. Fresh, bright fruit dominates the palate with a herbaceous edge. Pleasant but expensive for what it is. Very good (£10.99 Majestic) 10/01

Pavillon des Connétables 1999, St Julien, Bordeaux
A deep coloured wine, the nose shows bright berry fruit with a smoky edge. There's a nice tannic core to the brightly fruited palate. A tiny bit on the light side, but still plenty of stuffing here. Very good (£10.99 Majestic) 10/01

Château Grand Faurie Larose 1998 St Emilion, Bordeaux
Slightly muted nose leads to a chewy palate with bright fruit, high acid and a tannic finish. A light wine, and very youthful tasting. Overpriced (£12.99 Majestic) 10/01

Les Tourelles de Longueville 1997, Pauillac, Bordeaux
For those of you who just have to have your Christmas Claret, here's what I'd choose. The second wine of Ch. Pichon Longueville Baron, like many 1997s it's drinking well now -- these were never wines for the long haul. The nose shows smoky blackcurrant fruit with rounded, chalky notes. There's some rich fruit on the palate and just enough complexity to justify the price tag. Very good+ (£14.99 reduced to £12.99 Majestic) 10/01

Poupille 1998 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
Deep coloured wine. The nose is still pretty tight, with bright fruit and some background smokiness. The palate is dense, tight and tannic, with a concentrated fruity core. Needs time to open out. Very good+ (£13.99 Majestic) 10/01

Château Moulin Riche 1997, St Julien, Bordeaux
Quite a serious nose, with a smoky, medicinal edge. Dense, firm, tannic palate with impressive concentration, but currently it's quite hard. Will it come round? Very good (£14.99 Majestic) 10/01

Les Pagodes de Cos 1998, St Estèphe, Bordeaux
The second wine of Cos d'Estournel. Dense purple colour. Nose is quite serious, with a touch of spice, but is a little bit closed at the moment. There's bright blackcurrant fruit on the palate with high acidity and a juicy finish. Some tannin. Very good+ (£15.99 Majestic) 10/01

Château Calon-Ségur 1997, St Estephe 3ème cru classé
(Tasted blind) Savoury, slightly lean nose with leafy blackcurrant fruit and notes of smoke, herbs and olives. The palate is youthful with fruit, firm tannins and some spice. The finish is slightly astringent. Very good, but not worth the £25 retail price; 1997 was a weak vintage in Bordeaux, and it seems that Calon-Ségur have made the mistake of trying to make a bigger, more extracted wine, rather than a lighter effort that drinks well earlier. 05/01

Château Peyanché Blanc, Côtes de Francs, Elévé en fût de chêne, Bordeaux
A slightly old-fashioned style of white, the nose shows lemony fruit with honey and toasty notes, and a touch of vanilla. The palate is quite dense, herby and waxy. There's good balance, some complexity and a hint of oxidation, so drink up fairly soon. Quite woody. Good/very good  (Transitvin £6.75) 05/01

Vieux Château Renaissance 2000 Sauvignon AOC Bordeaux
Nice leafy nose showing grapefruity fruit with a touch of gooseberry. The palate shows crisp clean fruit. Archetypal Sauvignon. Good/very good  (Transitvin £5.99) 05/01

Château Brandeau 1998 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
An organic wine, this has a bright red/purple colour. It's a medium bodied red with a nose showing attractive leafy, cedary blackcurrant fruit. The rounded palate is dominated by ripe berry fruit, with a touch of spicy tannin. It's not a big, concentrated effort but it's a nice, well balanced, digestable Bordeaux. Very good  (Transitvin £6.79) 05/01

Château Vieux Saule 1997, Côtes de Francs, Bordeaux
Lovely, open, leafy, cedary nose with some smoky, mineral notes. There are some slightly green notes the blackcurrant fruit on the palate, and there are some spicy, stalky tannins. There's a lovely, savoury character. The next day a delicious minerally character emerges that remains me of wet pavements. Very good (Transitvin £5.75) 05/01

Château Lavergne Cuvée Prestige 1998, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
An oak aged wine, this is a medium bodied red/purple with a sweet nose of leafy/herbaceous fruit (blackcurrant and raspberry), and some smoky notes. It's not particularly concentrated on the palate, but there's a sweet core to the fruit and it's showing good balance. The next day it has opened out nicely. An attractive, digestible wine for current consumption. Very good+  (Transitvin £6.99) 05/01

Château Montpezat Côtes de Castillon 1996, Bordeaux
Bright red colour with a bricking rim. The nose is slightly green and a little bit volatile. On the palate it is a bit fruitless with tart acidity. In danger of becoming a bit plonkish. Drinkable with food. OK/Good (Transitvin £6.99) 05/01

Château Climens 1991 1er Cru Sauternes-Barsac
Sensational stuff from leading Barsac property Climens, and this is supposed to be a poor vintage! The smoky, toasty, crème brulée nose leads to a sensationally rich spicy palate with some apricotty botrytis notes and great length and complexity. As in all great Sauternes, the sweetness is well balanced by acidity. Excellent 03/01

Château Fleur Cardinale 1995, Saint Emilion
It's rare to find anything serious from Bordeaux at less than a tenner, but this St Emilion is super stuff with real class. Nice softly perfumed nose with herby, smoky and cedary notes leads to a well balanced palate, showing some minerality and smooth tannins. A great interpretation of a classic style. Very good/excellent (£8.99 Bentalls) 05/01

Château Lestage Simon 1996, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux
Bordeaux is all about balance, and this is a lovely balanced wine with good concentration. It shows spice, cedar and some blackcurrant fruit, with nice chalky tannins. Not a blockbuster, but seamlessly integrated. Very good+ (Nicolas, price unknown) 06/01

Château Bonnet Entre-Deux-Mers 1999, André Lurton, Bordeaux
A modern-styled white Bordeaux, this is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with a dash of Muscadelle. The gently aromatic nose leads to a clean palate with fresh, attractive leafy, gooseberry and citrus fruit flavours. Smooth texture and nice balance between the fruit and acid. Good/very good (£5.99 Bottoms Up) 03/01

Château Barrabaque Prestige 1994, Canon Fronsac
One of the most enjoyable wines I've had in recent months: it's no blockbuster, and this may not be a great appellation, but is drinking deliciously now. The open, leafy nose gives way to a palate displaying sweet, ripe blackcurrant fruit with generous oaking. There are supple, chalky tannins and just enough mineral complexity to provide balance. Nicely poised. Drink now. Very good/excellent (One of Majestic's last Swedish parcel, so a great bargain at £4.99) 2/01

Château Lascombes 1990, Margaux
A mature-ish Claret drinking very nicely. Showing a mineralic, cedary, mushroomy nose and a reasonably complex palate with fine tannins, it’s perhaps beginning to dry out a touch on the finish. Nice weight and balance. 1/01

Château Latour 1993, Paulliac
Red purple colour, with medium concentration. Cedary nose is at first a little closed, but begins to open out after a while. Balanced palate: there is fruit and oak, but neither donimate. Firm tannins, and a touch of greeness. Perhaps a little closed, it is none the less drinking well now. Not great, but pretty good. (If you are asking: of course it isn’t worth the money.) 6/99

Château Climens 1988, Barsac
Soft, honeyed nose, with spicy complexity. On the palate it is rounded and not too sweet. This is a lovely wine that combines subtlety, finesse and just enough botrytis to add interest without dominating. Excellent. 1/00

Sichel Margaux 1997, Bordeaux
Youthful red/purple colour. Smoky, herby nose with some vegetal greenness, plus blackberry and raspberry fruit. Medium bodied, with high acidity and firm tannins. Meaty, fruity texture. There's modest use of oak. Good/very good, but needs time to develop. Poor value for money though. (£12.99 Threshers) 7/00

Château Le Bon Pasteur 1994, Pomerol, Bordeaux
A 100% Merlot from Michel Rolland's estate in Pomerol. There is a restrained, smoky, leafy nose with just a hint of greenness and some cigar-box elements beginning to emerge. The palate is dry, with prominent, fine tannins and some spicy elements. It is a restrained, complex wine with some appeal, but compared with the Casa Lapostolle Merlot drunk alongside, seems a touch austere. Very good, none the less. 4/00

Château Barrabaque Cuvée Prestige 1994 Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux
An impressive mature claret at a bargain price. Mature brick red colour. Lovely cedar and mineral nose. On the palate it is medium bodied with chewy tannins. Superb stuff, drinking really well now. Very good + (Majestic £4.99) 8/00

Château Haut Mazières Blanc 1998, Bordeaux
Fresh, dry white wine with good flavour intensity. Good+ (Majestic £4.99)