



 











|
tasting
notes
Bordeaux
overview
Are you rich? Then you might
like to explore Bordeaux, the world's most famous wine region and home to
some of the world's most aristocratic wines. But you'll need to have deep
pockets, because there is no getting round the fact that Bordeaux is
expensive. The easiest way to understand Bordeaux is to split it into the
left and right banks of the Gironde estuary, around which this huge region
is arranged. On the left bank are the Médoc and Graves regions, which
produce some of the most celebrated wines in the world from Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. At the top of
the price and quality pyramid are the classed growths from the
appellations of St Julien, Pauillac, St Estèphe, Margaux, Pessac Léognan
and Graves. On the right bank are found St Emilion and also the small
appellation of Pomerol, which is home to super-expensive 'cult' wines such
as Petrus, Lafleur and Le Pin. As if this was not enough, the Sauternes
region, just south of the Médoc, produces stunning sweet white wines.
However, fine wines such as these only represent a tiny proportion of the
output of Bordeaux: as well as producing some of the world's greatest
wines it also makes some of the worst. Each year a wine-lake full of thin,
hard, miserable wines flows from many of the lesser properties, much of it
finding its way onto supermarket shelves. The generally poor value for
money of these wines has devalued the image of Bordeaux in the eyes of
many consumers. In fact, it's hard work finding an interesting wine from
Bordeaux that costs less than a tenner.
(Prices and stockists in the UK are listed in brackets;
as a rough guide £1 = US$1.50. Date of tasting is indicated by month/year at the end of
the note.)
See also:
Chateau Senejac 2004 Cru Bourgeois, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux
Lovely nose shows some blackcurrant fruit but it's quite restrained, and
not too fruity, with a balanced, complex earthy, gravelly, cigar box sort
of character. Very smooth and elegant. The palate is earthy and spicy with
good density of fruit. Midweight with some nice tannin and really good
balance. A well proportioned sort of wine where nothing sticks out too
much, and at this price a real bargain for Bordeaux. This sort of wine is
what Bordeaux is all about. Very good+ 89/100 (£9.25 Waitrose) 04/07
Château Pavie-Macquin 1997 Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux
So beautifully perfumed, it's almost Burgundian, even though this is
classic Bordeaux. Therefs some gravelly minerality, a faint trace of tar,
and tight red berry fruit, with an underlying earthiness. The palate shows
savoury red fruits with some earthy tannic structure and good acidity. The
wine has a lovely fresh feel to it, although the fact that the fruit seems
to be beginning to recede a little makes me think this is one for drinking
over the next couple of years. Tasting the wine again on day two confirms
this. This is what we come to Bordeaux for, I reckon: complexity allied to
balance allied to drinkability. Very good/excellent 90/100 (Will be
featured in the forthcoming Bibendum sale, http://www.bibendum-wine.co.uk/)
02/07
Les Tourelles de Longueville 2003 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Quite deep coloured. Sweet but slightly muted nose showing ripe dark
fruits and a hint of gravelly minerality. It's quite refined without being
terribly vocal. The palate is smooth and ripe with a good weight of red
and black fruits, together with some smooth structure. Quite modern in
style and lacking real depth and intensity, but still nicely balanced and
very polished. It's a BMW 3-series rather than a Porsche Carrera. I reckon
this will provide satisfying rather than thrilling drinking over the next
few years. I guess my note is beginning to sound a little ambiguous: this
is a stylish, ripe Claret, but it just lacks a bit of excitement for me.
Very good+ 89/100 (£17.99 in the Bibendum sale) 03/07
Valandraud
1994 St Emilion, Bordeaux (Tasted blind)
Soft, smooth nose with a nice minerally edge to it. Refined, ripe and
classy, showing sweet fruit and minerally complexity. The palate is
quite spicy with lovely soft tannic structure and just a hint of
greenness. There’s a bit of chalkiness, too, with some
Bordeaux-style pencil lead character. Very good/excellent 92/100
11/06
Château Le Pin 1988 Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
Serious
right bank Bordeaux here. Sweet fruit with a smooth earthy edge. The
palate shows more sweet fruit with a bright expressive character and a
bit of leafiness. It’s a midweight wine that is fluently expressive,
with a lightness to its personality. Very good/excellent 94/100 11/06
Château Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac 1976 Bordeaux, France
Quite
firm, almost medicinal edge to the nose which is a bit smoky and quite
complex. The palate is firm, evolved and quite earthy. Savoury and
full, with nice density and a spicy, drying finish. An old wine
that’s hanging in there quite well. Very good+ 88/100
11/06
Château
Filhot 1935 Sauternes, Bordeaux, France
Apricotty, fresh, tangy and lemony – very evolved.
Powerful palate with intense tangy flavours. Complex stuff with real
interest. It certainly has some age on it, but it doesn’t taste like
a 70 year old wine. Very good/excellent 93/100
11/06
Château Coutet 1994 Barsac, France
Lovely deep orange and apricot nose with some boiled sweets and barley
sugar notes. The palate is sweet, soft and spicy with richly textured,
apricotty fruit. Deliciously full and approachable, with a nice spicy
finish. Very good/excellent 92/100 04/06
Calvet
Aetios 2003 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France
This is a serious effort: a single-vineyard Merlot from a 4 hectare
block. It has a nice spicy edge to the ripe dark fruit, with an earthy,
spicy mineralic structure and some drying tannins on the finish. Lovely
blackcurrant fruit on the nose. A tightly structured wine that opens out
with some time to reveal nice inky fruit with some richness. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (£14.99 Waitrose) 11/05
Château
d'Arcins Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois 2002 Bordeaux, France
This is good claret at under a tenner - a rare beast. Dark, minerally,
gravelly nose of savoury blackcurrant fruit, which has a nice earthy edge.
The palate is midweight, minerally and shows a nice balance between the
dark fruits and the savoury, gravelly structure. This is a satisfying wine
that is drinking well now: it isn't big, but it's well proportioned. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (£9.49 Oddbins) 11/05
Château
Gruaud Larose 1999 St Julien, Bordeaux
Lots of interest here: it’s dark, rich and earthy with a bit of
farmyard in the background, together with some minerally spiciness. Quite
tannic, dark and earthy on the palate with good acidity. Some spice and
chocolate complement the red and black fruits. This is fairly serious
stuff with a future ahead of it. Very good/excellent 92/100 12/05
Château La Fleur Peyrabon 2003 Pauillac, Bordeaux
This is a nicely refined, classic Claret. Dark coloured, it has an
attractive nose of sweet dark fruit with some chocolatey richness and
subtly tarry, roasted, gravelly definition. It smells fresh. The palate is
supple and midweight with an earthy, gravelly edge to the bright, sweet
dark fruits. There’s really good balance here. Fresh and supple; very
digestible. Very good/excellent (c£15, Millesima) 01/07
Château
Cheval Blanc 1986
Beautifully perfumed nose: aromatic, with nice spicy,
smooth fruit and an elegant leafy edge. The palate is savoury and
elegant with lovely spicy structure. Really nicely poised. Excellent
95/100
10/05
Château
Tassin 1eres Cotes de Bordeaux 20003 Bordeaux, France
Light, fruity and slightly sappy. Simple but joyless, although it is
savoury and digestible. OK 74/100 08/06
Château
La Rousselle 2000 Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
High-toned spicy, roast coffee edge to the restrained dark fruits
nose. The palate is savouy and quite classic with some sweetness to the
ripe fruit, but the overall impression is that of a tight, savoury wine
with good structure, acidity and an earthy, spicy edge. Nicely
proportioned this is a food friendly style. Very classic. Very good+
88/100 (Cadman Fine Wines) 03/05
Château
Vieux Pourret 1998 St Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France
A delightful claret drinking perfectly. There’s some minerally,
gravelly, leafy, savoury complexity on the nose. The palate is quite light
but perfectly poised with red fruits and a savoury, earthy structure. Very
good+ 89/100 03/06
Château
Louvie 2002 St Emilion, Bordeaux, France
An attractive nose of savoury blackcurrant and red fruits with some
earthiness and subtle roasted oak. The palate is balanced with
blackcurrant fruit sweetness (not too much, though) good acidity and
noticeable (although not obtrusive) oak. Savoury and spicy. Balance is the
key here: a delicious claret. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£14.99 Cadman
Fine Wines) 05/05
Château
Veyry 2001 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France
Subtle rounded edge to the firm dark fruits nose. Quite tight and
tannic with a good density of dark fruits and good acidity. I like the
structure here, which is coupled with classy oak and dense dark fruit.
Roasted, slightly coffee-ish edge. Quite sophisticated and modern this is
a very savoury food wine that needs time. Very good+ 89/100 (£19.99
Cadman Fine Wines) 03/05
Château
Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge 1996 Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux
Lovely open nose with a spectacularly chalky, mineralic edge to the
herbaceous fruit. Broad palate with spicy character and bold fruit. Nice
savoury, minerally structure. Very good/excellent 92/100 07/04
Château
Figeac 1986 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux
Quite an evolved leathery, earthy spicy nose which is complex and
full. The palate shows dense, spicy, firm minerally character. Quite full
and structured this is drinking very well now. Very good/excellent 93/100
07/04
Château
Pontet Canet 1996 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Very nicely structured with good acidity and a ripe, tarry, spicy edge to
the fruit. Great balance here. Very good/excellent 91/100
07/04
Château
Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2001 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Lovely nose is spicy, rich and firm. Lots of black fruits with just a
hint of greenness and some smoky, spicy oak. The palate is concentrated
with lovely structure: there’s a bit of greenness but this is backing up
the rich spicy, chocolatey fruit. Tannic finish. A lovely young wine. Very
good/excellent 93/100
07/04
Château
Pichon Longueville Baron 1996 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Delicious open nose: spicy and tarry with some savoury minerality. The
palate is quite structured with firm tannins but also a good depth of
fruit. Lovely structure. Still
quite youthful, but opening out a bit; quite a big, structured wine. Very
good/excellent 93/100 07/04
Château
Cos d’Estournel 1997 St Estèphe, Bordeaux
Quite an open, mineralic, chalky nose. The palate is structured and
minerally, savoury and spicy. Drinking well now. Very good+ 89/100 07/04
Château
Mouton Rothschild 1996 Pauillac, Bordeaux
Deep, intense, structured nose is tight, spicy and smoky. The palate
is structured, bold and a little closed at the moment. Lovely minerality
and structure: this is clearly a wine for the future. Very good/excellent
93/100 07/04
Château
Pavillion Rouge de Margaux 1996 Margaux, Bordeaux
Earthy, spicy, slightly musty nose. Firm, structured palate is quite
elegant. Very good+ 88/100
07/04
Château
La Lagune 1967 Haut Medoc, Bordeaux
Quite
fruity, very refined and still very much alive. Smooth complex nose of
earthy gravely fruit, with a subtle herby, undergrowthy edge. The palate
is perfectly balanced with savoury earthy fruit. It’s the balance here
that is the key. Drinking perfectly. Very good/excellent 91/100 09/04
Château
Lafaurie Peyraguey 1970 Sauternes, Bordeaux
A
deep yellow brown colour. Rather muted nose. The palate is rich and quite
savoury with evolved butterscotch, caramel and nut character. Quite a
thick texture. Impressive in an evolved style. Herb and tea notes, too.
Very good+ 89/100 09/04
Château
Suduiraut 1997 Sauternes, Bordeaux
Slightly
closed nose. Very taut, complex palate with rich apricot, caramel and
lemon notes. Viscous, concentrated, sweet and smooth. Rounded and
delicious. Very good/excellent 92/100 09/04
Château Palmer 1988 2eme Cru Classe Margaux, Bordeaux
Really appealing minerally nose with a touch of leafiness and some
herbaceousness, together with a bit of chocolatey complexity. The palate is
quite savoury and firm with spicy tannins and high acidity. Firm, a touch
austere but with lots happening. Very good+ 87/100 09/03
Château Phelan Segur 1996 St
Estephe, Bordeaux
Quite mature and drinking very nicely with good balance and a savoury,
spicy, minerally edge. Fine grained tannins. Very good/excellent 90/100
11/03
Château Gruaud Larose 1997 St Julien, Bordeaux
Open nose of blackcurrant fruit with a slight herbiness, some
chalkiness and minerals. The palate is earthy and spicy with accessible
black fruits and a touch of meatiness. Drinking nicely but with some time
to go, still. Very good+ 89/100 11/03
Château Gruaud Larose 1982 2eme Cru Classe St Julien,
Bordeaux
Deep coloured. Lovely complex nose is spicy, sweetly fruited and
minerally. The palate is soft but dense with lovely minerality and appealing spiciness. Great concentration. Drinking perfectly
now but some of the people I’m with say this isn’t as good as recent
bottles they’ve had. Very good/excellent 91/100 09/03
Château Leoville Barton 1986 2eme Cru Classe St Julien,
Bordeaux
This traditionally styled Bordeaux is not showing a great deal on the
nose. Very savoury and tight on the palate with firm tannins. Closed at
the moment, this is one of those bottles that you'd like to try again in a
few years time. Very good+ 86/100 09/03
Château
Angélus 1995 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux
One of the top St Emilions from a good year. Dense, tarry, rich and
spicy on the nose. The palate is firm and savoury. It’s very youthful in
a rich, full style with lots of tannic structure and potential. Very
good/excellent 91/100 09/03
Château Barrail du
Blanc 1999 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
Dark coloured. Quite a rich nose with a chocolate and roast coffee
edge, together with dark fruits. Savoury, rich palate with a mineralic,
earthy streak to the dark fruits. Good acidity. A well proportioned,
balanced wine. Not exciting but a good solid wine. Very good+ 87/100 (Corney
& Barrow ) 12/03
Château Doisy Daëne 2000 Sauternes 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Taut, intense herby nose. Viscous, rich palate is intensely sweet and
rounded with a marmalade tang. Very intense and with great balance. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (£11.99/half Waitrose) 04/03
Château Carsin Cuvée Prestige 2001 Bordeaux, France
A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc aged in new and one-year-old
barriques. Very appealing toast, vanilla and brioche nose: oaky but
classy. Savoury, toasty palate with lots of oak. Very good+ 87/100 (£7.99
Waitrose) 04/03
Château Patache
d’Aux Cru Bourgeois Medoc 1996 Bordeaux
Quite a striking herby, spicy nose with some leafy, leathery
complexity. The savoury palate is quite austere with a pronounced herbal
character. Slightly medicinal and the fruit has dried up a bit. Might have
been better younger. Very good+ 03/03
Château d’Yquem 1990 Sauternes 1er Grand Cru Classé,
Bordeaux
Deep yellow/orange. Complex and slightly restrained nose of herbs,
honey and straw, with hints of vanilla and butterscotch. The palate is
intense and waxy with lots of herbal complexity, and notes of caramel
and toast. Seamless, well balanced and not overtly sweet this is a
legendary wine to sip with reverence. Excellent (£200 Waitrose) 10/02
Château Léoville Barton 1994 St Julien, Bordeaux
Classically structured, this is initially a tiny bit closed, but after
a sort while the nose opens out to reveal minerally, spicy notes. The
palate is savoury and structured with nice balance and some cedary
complexity. What I like about this wine is its harmony and balance,
although it could probably do with just a couple more years ageing. Very
good/excellent 10/02
Château Rozier St Emilion Grand Cru 1999
Quite a concentrated, ripe wine with lots of blackcurranty fruit and a
leafy, herby character. The chalky character on the palate is very
appealing. Very good/excellent 03/03
Château Rollan de By 1995 Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, Bordeaux
Deep coloured, this has quite a closed nose initially. When coaxed,
though, it reveals spicy, mineralic fruit with a hint of liquoricey
richness. Very classic. The palate shows good concentration of tight
herb-tinged berry and blackcurrant fruit with an earthy, chalky edge. Good
acidity. This is quite serious but needs more time to open out. Very good+
(01/03)
Château La Vieille Cure 1989 Fronsac, Bordeaux
Every now again you open a bottle you’ve cellared for a while and
find that it’s absolutely at its peak. This is one such example. Lovely
fragrant nose is complex and cedary with notes of smoke, tar and
chalkiness. Quite beguiling and classic. The palate shows midweight
minerally black fruits well supported by firm spicy tannins. There’s a
bit of green pepper character on the palate, but this is a brilliant
effort. Very good/excellent (purchased in 1993 for £7.95 from Sainsbury)
11/02
Château Palmer 1983 Margaux 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux
Deep red/brown colour with a fading rim. Spicy, mineralic nose
with some savoury herbal complexity. The palate is nicely evolved with
firm, mineralic, earthy character. Drinking well now. Very
good/excellent (£170 Waitrose)
10/02
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1989
Pauillac 2ème Cru Classé
Red/brown colour with a fading rim. Lovely mature claret nose with
complex herby and minerally notes. Quite focused. Chewy, savoury
palate with good structure and earthy, leathery, mineralic complexity.
Very good/excellent (£110 Waitrose) 10/02
Château Leoville Poyferré 1973, St Julien, Bordeaux
An interesting wine that’s probably been kept a bit longer than it
should have been. Sweetly spiced ‘old wine’ nose. Palate is mushroomy
and spicy with an earthy, undergrowth character. A bit dried out, but
still alive, just. Very good 05/02
Château Coufran 1997 Cru Bourgeois Haut-Medoc, France
Coufran is a large Cru Bourgeois (76 hectares of vineyard) located
3 miles north of the St-Estèphe boundary in the commune of St-Seurin-de-Cadbourne.
Very deep red/purple. Striking nose of leafy-edged blackcurrant fruit
with a strong mineral/cedar component. Palate is savoury with high
acidity and a good concentration of leafy, almost herbaceous fruit. It’s
lean and austere, but drinking well now with food. Typical of the
1997s but with a touch more structure than some. Very good (£9.95
Berry Bros) 03/02
Château l’Abbaye de St-Ferme 2000, Bordeaux Supérieur
Deep coloured, with a chalky, mineral edge to the berry and black
fruit nose. Satisfyingly rich, chunky, chalky-edged fruit on the
palate, with good concentration. Very impressive for cheap Bordeaux.
Very good+ (£5.99 Majestic) 10/02
Château Caronne St Gemme 1999, Haut Médoc
Focused, mineral-edged black fruits on the nose. Light but nicely
balanced palate has high acidity and minerally fruit. Needs food. Very
good+ (£9.99 Majestic) 10/02
Connétable de Talbot 1997 St Julien
The colour is beginning to fade just a little. Classic claret nose
is quite evolved with leafy, spicy, chalky, cedary notes. Mineralic
palate shows good acid and some tannic structure. Ideally needs food,
but like a lot of 1997 clarets this is drinking brilliantly now. Very
good/excellent (£9.99 Majestic) 10/02
Château Paveil de Luze 1997 Margaux Cru Bourgeois
Colour is fading a little. Sweet, herby fruit on the nose leads to
a chunky, savoury palate with leafy edged, minerally berry fruit and
good acidity. Drinking well now. Very good+ (£9.99 Majestic) 10/02
Moulin de la Lagune 1999, Haut Médoc
Dusty, spicy edge to the nose. Midweight palate shows spicy,
slightly herby berry fruit and high acidity. Nice balance but a bit on
the light side. (£10.99 Majestic) 10/02
Château Beau Site 1997 St Estephe
Forward nose with a rich tarry, herby streak is very appealing.
Good concentration on the palate which is currently dominated by spicy
berry fruit with some oaky richness. Attractive. Very good+ (£11.99
Majestic) 10/02
Château Grand Faurie Larose 1988 St Emilion Grand Cru
Focused spicy berry fruit on the nose. The palate is juicy and
intense but currently a little austere. Very good (£12.99 Majestic)
10/02
Réserve de Léoville Barton 1998 St Julien
Deep coloured. Focused nose with tight blackcurrant fruit. Palate
is still quite primary with vivid, juicy fruit and high acidity.
Simple; needs time to develop some complexity. Very good (£14.99
Majestic) 10/02
Château La Fleur 1998 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé
This Merlot-dominated wine shows vivid juicy berry fruit on the
nose, and minerally, savoury fruit on the palate. Good acidity. Lots
of interest here but it needs food. Very good+ (£15.99 Majestic)
10/02
Château Lagrange 1997 Pomerol
Lovely intense chalky blackcurrant fruit on the nose, which is
nicely mineralic. The palate is quite light in texture but with an
expressive mineralic, high acid character. Drinking well now this is a
beautifully poised food wine. Very good/excellent (£18.99 Majestic)
10/02
Château Corbin 1998 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé
Deep coloured. There’s a smoky edge to the leafy blackcurrant
fruit on the nose. Good depth of fruit. Midweight palate is intensely
juicy with rather primary fruit and good acidity. Needs time, and a
tiny bit austere at the moment. Very good+ (£19.99 Majestic) 10/02
Château Poujeaux 2000, Moulis, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) Deep red purple colour, with an exotic, ripe nose
showing menthol oak notes, an attractive spiciness and ripe fruit.
Great concentration on the palate, with prominent and as yet
unintegrated oak, firm tannins and a dry, spicy finish. A bit angular
and lacks finesse, but superb concentration. Very good (£138 per case
in bond = £14.88 per bottle after duty and VAT; these wines won’t
be delivered until 2003, Bibendum) 11/01
Château La Clotte 2000, St Emilion, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) This is an impressive effort: classy, ripe and full.
Deep purple colour. Palate shows very concentrated ripe fruit and a
lovely herby character. Rich, complex, tannic palate shows very good
intensity of spicy, herby fruit and unobtrusive oak. Very
good/excellent (£18.02 per bottle incl. duty and VAT, Bibendum) 11/01
Château Beauregard 2000, Pomerol, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) Very deep red purple colour and showing great
concentration. Exotic, striking nose of roast coffee, herbs and ripe
fruit. Concentrated, rich palate with a herbal edge and assertive but
fine grained tannins. Delicious stuff; full on and with a good future
ahead of it. Very good/excellent (£27.05 per bottle incl. duty and
VAT, Bibendum) 11/01
Château Clos Fourtet 2000, St Emilion, Bordeaux
(Cask sample) Red/purple colour with an inky intensity. Lush,
herby nose with some ripe fruit. Firm, intense, concentrated palate is
a little closed at the moment, but there’s lots of spicy, oaky,
dense red berry fruit. Needs time. Very good+ (£31.53 per bottle
incl. duty and VAT, Bibendum) 11/01
Château Bellevue 1997, St Emilion, Bordeaux
An attractive wine showing leafy, raspberry fruit with some chalky,
spicy notes. Good acidity and balance. Very good 10/01
Sichel St Emilion (NV), Bordeaux
The bright fruit is recognizably Merlot influenced, dominated by leafy
raspberry fruit and high acid. Nice enough, but quite a simple wine. Good
10/01
Château Cantermerle 1996 5eme Cru Classé, Haut Medoc
(Tasted blind, note as written) Red/black in colour, this is quite
evolved. The lovely chalky, mineral nose shows red berry fruit and some
smoky notes. Spicy berry fruit on the palate with some sweetness to it, this
tastes reasonably evolved, with a nice mineraliness. The mineralic character
leads me to Bordeaux, but the sweet berry fruit and evolved character
suggests it's a restrained effort from the new world, which is what I plump
for. Very good+ 08/01
Les Hauts de Pontet (second wine of Pontet-Canet) 1998, Pauillac
(Tasted blind, note as written) Very deep red/purple colour, with leafy,
minerally notes on the nose. Quite restrained palate has firm, slightly
green tannins with a chalky/minerally edge and some raspberry/blackcurrant
fruit and high acidity. A touch austere. Hard to place: my guess is a
Merlot- or Cabernet Franc-dominated wine from a lesser Bordeaux appellation.
Very good 08/01
Château Pervenche-Puy-Arnauld 1998 Côtes de Castillon,
Bordeaux
Light, but with some attractive chalky tannins and good balance.
Good/very good (£8.49 Majestic) 10/01
Château La Vieille Croix 1998 Fronsac, Bordeaux
Deep red/purple colour. Bright herby cherry fruit on the nose with
some rich blackcurrant undertones. Fresh, bright fruit dominates the
palate with a herbaceous edge. Pleasant but expensive for what it is.
Very good (£10.99 Majestic) 10/01
Pavillon des Connétables 1999, St Julien, Bordeaux
A deep coloured wine, the nose shows bright berry fruit with a
smoky edge. There's a nice tannic core to the brightly fruited palate.
A tiny bit on the light side, but still plenty of stuffing here. Very
good (£10.99 Majestic) 10/01
Château Grand Faurie Larose 1998 St Emilion, Bordeaux
Slightly muted nose leads to a chewy palate with bright fruit,
high acid and a tannic finish. A light wine, and very youthful
tasting. Overpriced (£12.99 Majestic) 10/01
Les Tourelles de Longueville 1997, Pauillac, Bordeaux
For those of you who just have to have your Christmas Claret,
here's what I'd choose. The second wine of Ch. Pichon Longueville
Baron, like many 1997s it's drinking well now -- these were never
wines for the long haul. The nose shows smoky blackcurrant fruit with
rounded, chalky notes. There's some rich fruit on the palate and just
enough complexity to justify the price tag. Very good+ (£14.99
reduced to £12.99 Majestic) 10/01
Poupille 1998 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
Deep coloured wine. The nose is still pretty tight, with bright
fruit and some background smokiness. The palate is dense, tight and
tannic, with a concentrated fruity core. Needs time to open out. Very
good+ (£13.99 Majestic) 10/01
Château Moulin Riche 1997, St Julien, Bordeaux
Quite a serious nose, with a smoky, medicinal edge. Dense, firm,
tannic palate with impressive concentration, but currently it's quite
hard. Will it come round? Very good (£14.99 Majestic) 10/01
Les Pagodes de Cos 1998, St Estèphe, Bordeaux
The second wine of Cos d'Estournel. Dense purple colour. Nose is
quite serious, with a touch of spice, but is a little bit closed at
the moment. There's bright blackcurrant fruit on the palate with high
acidity and a juicy finish. Some tannin. Very good+ (£15.99 Majestic)
10/01
Château Calon-Ségur 1997, St Estephe 3ème cru classé
(Tasted blind) Savoury, slightly lean nose with leafy blackcurrant fruit
and notes of smoke, herbs and olives. The palate is youthful with fruit,
firm tannins and some spice. The finish is slightly astringent. Very good,
but not worth the £25 retail price; 1997 was a weak vintage in Bordeaux,
and it seems that Calon-Ségur have made the mistake of trying to make a
bigger, more extracted wine, rather than a lighter effort that drinks well
earlier. 05/01
Château Peyanché Blanc, Côtes de Francs, Elévé en fût de chêne,
Bordeaux
A slightly old-fashioned style of white, the nose shows lemony fruit
with honey and toasty notes, and a touch of vanilla. The palate is quite
dense, herby and waxy. There's good balance, some complexity and a hint of
oxidation, so drink up fairly soon. Quite woody. Good/very good (Transitvin
£6.75) 05/01
Vieux Château Renaissance 2000 Sauvignon AOC Bordeaux
Nice leafy nose showing grapefruity fruit with a touch of gooseberry.
The palate shows crisp clean fruit. Archetypal Sauvignon. Good/very good
(Transitvin £5.99) 05/01
Château Brandeau 1998 Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
An organic wine, this has a bright red/purple colour. It's a medium
bodied red with a nose showing attractive leafy, cedary blackcurrant fruit.
The rounded palate is dominated by ripe berry fruit, with a touch of spicy
tannin. It's not a big, concentrated effort but it's a nice, well balanced,
digestable Bordeaux. Very good (Transitvin £6.79) 05/01
Château Vieux Saule 1997, Côtes de Francs, Bordeaux
Lovely, open, leafy, cedary nose with some smoky, mineral notes. There
are some slightly green notes the blackcurrant fruit on the palate, and
there are some spicy, stalky tannins. There's a lovely, savoury character.
The next day a delicious minerally character emerges that remains me of wet
pavements. Very good (Transitvin £5.75) 05/01
Château Lavergne Cuvée Prestige 1998, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux
An oak aged wine, this is a medium bodied red/purple with a sweet nose
of leafy/herbaceous fruit (blackcurrant and raspberry), and some smoky
notes. It's not particularly concentrated on the palate, but there's a sweet
core to the fruit and it's showing good balance. The next day it has opened
out nicely. An attractive, digestible wine for current consumption. Very
good+ (Transitvin £6.99) 05/01
Château Montpezat Côtes de Castillon 1996, Bordeaux
Bright red colour with a bricking rim. The nose is slightly green and a
little bit volatile. On the palate it is a bit fruitless with tart acidity.
In danger of becoming a bit plonkish. Drinkable with food. OK/Good (Transitvin
£6.99) 05/01
Château Climens 1991 1er Cru Sauternes-Barsac
Sensational stuff from leading Barsac property Climens, and this is supposed
to be a poor vintage! The smoky, toasty, crème brulée nose leads to a
sensationally rich spicy palate with some apricotty botrytis notes and great
length and complexity. As in all great Sauternes, the sweetness is well
balanced by acidity. Excellent 03/01
Château Fleur Cardinale 1995, Saint Emilion
It's rare to find anything serious from Bordeaux at less than a tenner, but
this St Emilion is super stuff with real class. Nice softly perfumed nose
with herby, smoky and cedary notes leads to a well balanced palate, showing
some minerality and smooth tannins. A great interpretation of a classic
style. Very good/excellent (£8.99 Bentalls) 05/01
Château Lestage Simon 1996, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux
Bordeaux is all about balance, and this is a lovely balanced wine with
good concentration. It shows spice, cedar and some blackcurrant fruit, with
nice chalky tannins. Not a blockbuster, but seamlessly integrated. Very
good+ (Nicolas, price unknown) 06/01
Château Bonnet Entre-Deux-Mers 1999, André Lurton, Bordeaux
A modern-styled white Bordeaux, this is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and
Semillon with a dash of Muscadelle. The gently aromatic nose leads to a
clean palate with fresh, attractive leafy, gooseberry and citrus fruit
flavours. Smooth texture and nice balance between the fruit and acid.
Good/very good (£5.99 Bottoms Up) 03/01
Château Barrabaque Prestige 1994, Canon
Fronsac
One of the most enjoyable wines I've had in recent months: it's no blockbuster, and this
may not be a great appellation, but is drinking deliciously now. The open, leafy nose
gives way to a palate displaying sweet, ripe blackcurrant fruit with generous
oaking.
There are supple, chalky tannins and just enough mineral complexity to provide balance.
Nicely poised. Drink now. Very good/excellent (One of Majestic's last Swedish parcel, so a
great bargain at £4.99) 2/01
Château Lascombes 1990, Margaux
A mature-ish Claret drinking very nicely. Showing a mineralic, cedary, mushroomy nose and
a reasonably complex palate with fine tannins, its perhaps beginning to dry out a
touch on the finish. Nice weight and balance. 1/01
Château Latour 1993, Paulliac
Red purple colour, with medium concentration. Cedary nose is at first a little
closed, but begins to open out after a while. Balanced palate: there is fruit and oak, but
neither donimate. Firm tannins, and a touch of greeness. Perhaps a little closed, it is
none the less drinking well now. Not great, but pretty good. (If you are asking: of course
it isnt worth the money.) 6/99
Château Climens 1988, Barsac
Soft, honeyed nose, with spicy complexity. On the palate it is rounded and not
too sweet. This is a lovely wine that combines subtlety, finesse and just enough botrytis
to add interest without dominating. Excellent. 1/00
Sichel Margaux 1997, Bordeaux
Youthful red/purple colour. Smoky, herby nose with some vegetal greenness, plus blackberry
and raspberry fruit. Medium bodied, with high acidity and firm tannins. Meaty, fruity
texture. There's modest use of oak. Good/very good, but needs time to develop. Poor value
for money though. (£12.99 Threshers) 7/00
Château Le Bon Pasteur 1994, Pomerol, Bordeaux
A 100% Merlot from Michel Rolland's estate in Pomerol. There is
a restrained, smoky, leafy nose with just a hint of greenness and some cigar-box elements
beginning to emerge. The palate is dry, with prominent, fine tannins and some spicy
elements. It is a restrained, complex wine with some appeal, but compared with the Casa
Lapostolle Merlot drunk alongside, seems a touch austere. Very good, none the less. 4/00
Château Barrabaque Cuvée Prestige 1994
Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux
An impressive mature claret at a bargain price. Mature brick red colour. Lovely cedar and
mineral nose. On the palate it is medium bodied with chewy tannins. Superb stuff, drinking
really well now. Very good + (Majestic £4.99) 8/00
Château Haut Mazières Blanc 1998, Bordeaux
Fresh, dry white wine with good flavour intensity. Good+ (Majestic £4.99)
|