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Tasting
notes of South African wines
(Prices and
stockists in the UK are listed in brackets; as a rough guide £1 = US$1.80. Date of
tasting is indicated at the end of each note as month/year)
See also:
The
wineanorak's guide to South African wine
- Top
ten Pinotage: can I fall for it?
- South
Africa's leading red wines
- Quick
guide to South Africa's wine regions
- The wines of Boekenhoutskloof,
Franschoek
- The wines of
Bouchard Finlayson, Walker Bay
- The wines of Buitenverwachting,
Constantia
- The wines of Chamonix,
Franschoek
- The wines of Constantia
Uitsig
- The
wines of Danie De
Wet, Robertson
- The wines of Fairview,
Paarl
- The wines of Glen
Carlou, Paarl
- The wines of Graham
Beck
- The wines of Groot
Constantia
- The wines of Hamilton
Russell, Walker Bay
- The wines of Hartenberg
Estate, Stellenbosch
- The wines of Kaapzicht,
Stellenbosch
- The wines of Klein
Constantia, Constantia
- The wines of KWV
- The wines of Lomond,
Cape Agulhas
- The wines of Meerlust,
Stellenbosch
- The wines of Morgenhof,
Stellenbosch
- The wines of Paul
Cluver, Elgin
- The wines of Rupert
& Rothschild, Paarl
- The wines of Steenberg,
Constantia
- The wines of Thelema,
Stellenbosch
- The wines of De
Trafford, Stellenbosch
- The wines of Vergelegen,
Stellenbosch
- The wines of Warwick
Estate, Stellenbosch
- The
white wines of South Africa
Meerlust Chardonnay 2006 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Quite a European-styled nose with tight, minerally,
lemony fruit supported by classy vanillin oak – not at all fat or showy.
The palate is mineralic and fresh with taut, rather lean fruit, high
acidity, and plenty of new oak in evidence. This is quite a serious effort
that needs time to fully integrate and unwind. It’s sort of hard to
judge right now, but I think it will turn out to be a really interesting
wine with a few more years in bottle. 91/100 (£17.99) 02/08
Cederberg Sustainable Shiraz 2006 Cederberg, South
Africa
Ripe but focused red berry fruit nose with a subtle
greenness. The palate is vivid and fruity with a vibrant berryish
character and good acidity. There’s a hint of spicy seriousness, but
overall, this is a juicy good-time red of some appeal. 86/100 (£6.99
Waitrose) 02/08
Cederberg Sustainable Chenin Blanc 2007 Cederberg,
South Africa
An organic Chenin grown at an altitude of over 1000 m,
this is incredibly fresh with lovely bright lime and herb aromas, as well
as a tanky ester-like character. The palate has a bit of creamy richness,
but, again, the dominant feature is citrussy freshness, along with a bit
of spice. A versatile fresh white wine. 87/100 (£6.99 Waitrose) 02/08
Brampton Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Western Cape, South
Africa
Slightly muted herby, minerally nose. The palate has
some rich, quite ripe tropical fruit which combines with a fresher,
grassy, green pepper character. I’m a bit unsure about this – it doesn’t
seem very integrated to me. 84/100 (Virgin Wines) 02/08
Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Walker Bay, South
Africa
A fresh, intense and rather unusual Sauvignon Blanc
from a relatively cool-climate maritime region in South Africa. The
dominant feature here is a distinctive green pepper, chalky
methoxypyrazine streak, which adds some savoury complexity to the intense
herby, grassy fruit. It’s a concentrated wine that would work very well
with food, but isn’t really suited to casual sipping. Beautifully
packaged with a lovely label, a half-length silver capsule (a la Ridge)
and a high quality natural cork. 88/100 (£8.99 Noel Young, www.sawinesonline.co.uk)
01/08
La Motte Sauvignon Blanc Pierneef Collection 2006
Walker Bay, South Africa
Very fresh, intense nose with a bit of green chalkiness
alongside the bright, grassy fruit. The palate is concentrated and fresh
with restrained, stylish, herb-tinged fruit, and a hint of richness and
minerality. Old world meets new: very stylish. 901/100 03/07
La Motte Shiraz 2004 Western Cape, South Africa
Open, meaty, spicy nose with a bit of a herby tang to
the dark, fresh fruits. The palate is quite savoury and meaty with good
balance, juicy acidity and a subtle medicinal note, plus some drying
tannins. A rather extreme style that needs food, with its distinctive herb
and olive edge. 85/100 (£8.99 Majestic) 03/07
La Motte Shiraz Viognier Pierneef Collection 2005
Franschoek, South Africa
With a relatively large contribution from Viognier
(9%), this is an attractive wine. Deep coloured, it has a sweet, ripe,
meaty nose with perfumed black fruits and spicy depth. The palate is
concentrated and ripe, showing smooth dark meaty fruit backed up by spicy
tannins. A dark, sweet, intense wine with nice balance and a savoury edge.
90/100 (£9.99 Tesco) 03/07
Graham Beck Pheasant’s Run Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Durbanville, South Africa
Powerful, perfumed nose of sweet lychee fruit with some
green pepper and grassiness. The palate is concentrated with a herbal,
grassy character and thick-textured fruit. A powerful wine of real
personality. 88/100 07/06
Crow’s Fountain Traditional Bush Vine Sauvignon Blanc
2007 Stellenbosch, South Africa
From Villiera. Chalky, limey, minerally nose is quite
fresh, with a hint of green pepper. The palate is crisp and quite savoury,
with a minerally mouthfeel. It’s very dry and quite refreshing. 86/100 (£8.99
Marks & Spencer) 10/07
Excelsior Paddock Shiraz 2006 Robertson, South Africa
This has an appealing nose of dark, spicy fruit with a
distinctive roast coffee edge to it. There’s a hint of meatiness, too.
The palate has ripe fruit complemented by a meaty, herbal savouriness.
It’s fruity, but not too sweet, and the savoury spiciness means that
this would work well at the table. 87/100 (£5.99 Tesco, Sainsbury,
Waitrose, Somerfield) 09/07
The FMC Forrester Meinert Chenin 2006 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
This is perhaps South
Africa’s finest expression of Chenin blanc. It’s a big old wine with a
mighty flavour impact, and comes mainly from low-yielding old bush vines
planted in 1967, which is my vintage. Harvested at full maturity, the
grapes are treated to a wild-yeast fermentation in new French oak 400
litre barrels, using late harvested botrytised Chenin as a blending wine.
Maturation on the lees ensues, with a total of 10 months in the barrel.
9.7 g/litre residual sugar. This is powerful, viscous and concentrated,
with sweet vanilla, herb, honey and spice notes. It’s very broad and
attractive with an almost sweet tropical fruit quality and some warm,
sweet creamy depth. Not really in a Loire style, but really intense and
interesting. 93/100 (Tesco,
Waitrose, Great Western Wine £16.95) 12/07
Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2006 Stellenbosch, South
Africa
Reductive spicy, burnt match edge to the nose, masking
the fruit a bit. The palate has some generous, straw-like Chenin fruit
trying to get out, but it’s held back by minerally, slightly bitter
reductive notes. 82/100 (£7.99 Waitrose) 09/07
Pearly Bay Cape White 2007 Western Cape, South Africa
From KWV. Fruity, fresh and quite citrus-pithy on the
nose. The palate is fruity, clean and bright with a soft texture and a
grapey freshness. There’s nothing wrong with this accessible white wine,
and for the price it’s a total bargain. (£2.99 Morrisons) 09/07
Stellar Organics Cabernet Sauvignon No Added Sulphur
2006 Western Cape
Made from organically grown grapes, with no added sulfur dioxide. A
fantastic deep red/black colour, this looks like a barrel sample. It has a
wonderfully perfumed, seductive nose of pure sweet blackcurrant fruit with
an earthy edge and some gravelly minerally notes in the background. The
palate is concentrated and quite lush, but underneath the sweet dark fruit
lies a complex earthy core with a very subtle spicy green herby note
adding an extra dimension. Despite the fact that this is quite a big wine,
there's a lovely elegance here, and a delicious textural richness. I
reckon you need to drink this gorgeously forward wine in the first flush
of its youth: I suspect it will taste a bit tired and go all earthy by
this time next year. 90/100 (£6.50 Vintage Roots, on offer a £5.95 until
11 January 2008) 12/07
Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling 2007 Elgin, South
Africa
'Weisser Riesling' is a term used in South Africa to describe the true
Riesling variety, and this wine comes from the cool climate Elgin region.
It's an elegant, dry style of Riesling with apple and lemon fruit
combining with a distinctly crisp, mineralic core to make a bone dry wine
with a distinctly savoury character that is extremely food friendly. This
is a moderately serious wine that is extremely versatile, and represents
good value at the price. It is stylistically similar to Clare Valley
Riesling, I reckon. South Africa should be making more Riesling, although
I imagine it can be a tough wine to sell. 88/100 (£7.99 Jeroboams/Laytons)
12/07
Brampton Shiraz 2004 Coastal Region, South Africa
This may be Rustenberg's
second label, but don't let this dissuade you from seeking this beauty
out. It has a nose of sweet dark fruits supported by some pepper, spicy
notes and a dark, savoury meatiness, together with a hint of olive. The
palate is sweetly fruited but at the same time quite savoury, showing some
tannin. This is deliciously balanced, and could just about pass muster as
an old world wine (a sort of combination of Languedoc, Northern Rhone and
Southern Rhone). I'm uneasy about the fact that it's 15% alcohol, but the
wine carries it remarkably well. Very good/excellent 90/100 (on checking,
I find this is the same score I gave the wine when I visited in December
2005, which is reassuring.) UK availability: Waitrose, Andrew Chapman,
South African Wines Online, around £8. 02/07
The Cloof Cellar Blend 2004 Darling, South Africa
Spicy, dark, intense, tannic, this is a bit of a beast of a wine. It's an
undisclosed blend, 25% of which was matured in new French oak, and it
weighs in at 14.5% alcohol. The nose shows sweet berries with a hint of
chalky minerality, some jamminess and a touch of tar. The palate combines
very sweet fruit with some grippy tannins and a bit of spice, and in the
background there's just a tiny hint of greenness. It's one of those wines
that has that characteristic of deliciousness: it's robust, concentrated
and moreish. In fact, that's what worries me a little. Am I being conned
by this almost over-the-top wine? I think it's really nice in an obvious,
forward sort of way, but have I been duped by the winemaker? Is there a
bit of residual sugar papering over the cracks? But I do like those grippy
tannins: they are what saves this wine for me. It's the sort of wine that
if you open it with friends, the bottle will very soon be drained. Very
good+ 89/100 (RRP £9.99, more info from alison@ew-pr.co.uk) 02/07
M&S Crow's Fountain Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Stellenbosch, South Africa
From Villera, this is fresh, bright and spicy with a nice grassy
character to the fruit. Good weight and some richness too. A tasty, full
flavoured Sauvignon. 88/100 (Marks & Spencer) 11/06
Douglas Green Chenin Blanc 2006 Western Cape, South Africa
Bright, full flavoured and fruity. Rich grapeskin and peach character,
coupled with fresh acid. 83/100 (£4.49 Tesco) 11/06
Eaglevlei Merlot 2005 Western Cape, South Africa
Bright, sweet chocolatey black fruits nose is modern
and alluring. The palate is sweet and ripe with a green herbal edge and
some grippy tannins. There’s an odd mix here of extreme ripeness and
some underripeness that is quite common in South African reds. Nice
enough, though. 84/100 (Sainsbury) 02/07
Boschendal Rosé 2006 Coastal Region, South Africa
Pretty, deep salmon/pink colour. Sweet fruity nose
showing strawberries and berry fruit. The palate is soft and rich textured
with sweet fruit backed up by a nice soft herbiness. Delicious full
flavoured style of rosé. 86/100 (£6.99 Majestic) 02/07
Flagstone The Last Word 2002 Fortified Red Wine, South Africa
A blend including Mourvedre, Shiraz, Carignan, Cabernet, Barbera,
Tannat, Sangiovese and Sousao. Should be more interesting than it is.
Sweet alcoholic red fruits nose and a ripe sweet palate with a green
herbal character. Has the flavour profile of a cheap SA red with a big
whack of alcoholic warmth. Very good 82/100 (£12.99 Oddbins) 06/06
Engelbrecht Els 2003 Western Cape, South Africa
Spicy, ripe nose with rich blackcurrant fruit and a bit of greenness.
The palate is quite structured with sweet ripe berry and blackcurrant
fruit, together with some chocolatey, spicy richness. Quite ripe and
alcoholic yet still has some greenness. Might age gracefully. Very good+
87/100 06/06
Charles
Back Chenin Blanc Viognier 2006 Paarl, South Africa
Gorgeous forward, ripe nose with pear, melon and a bit of honey. Ripe,
broad and perfumed. The palate is fat and fruit, yet fresh and expressive.
Lots of flavour here, hitting all the way across the spectrum. Finishes
Fresh. Very good+ 88/100 (£7.99 Somerfield) 12/06
Bellingham The Maverick Chenin Blanc 2005
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Deep yellow gold colour. Big nose of sweet vanilla, honey, herbs and
cream. The palate is dry but quite rich with toasty, melony fruit. Richly
textured, this is a bold style of Chenin that’s right in-yer-face. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (£8.99 Waitrose, Majestic) 09/06
Nederberg
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 Western Cape, South Africa
Sweet blackcurrant fruit dominates. Mouthfilling and with a bit of
green rusticity. Slightly harsh spicy finish. Good 79/100 (Morrisons)
08/06
Meinert Pinotage 2003
Devon Valley, South Africa
Deep spicy nose with vivid red fruits and a hint of herbiness.
There’s a touch of meatiness in the background. The palate shows lovely
vivid clean red fruits with a pleasant herbal edge and just a hint of that
Pinotage funk. Some clove spiciness and a rustic twist. Very good+ 87/100
(£7.95 Great Western Wine) 02/06
Yonder
Hill Inanda 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
A Bordeaux-style blend. Nice minerally, earthy edge to the nose which
shows red berry fruits. The palate has a slight green herbaceousness. A
fresh, easy drinking style that’s food compatible. Distinctly South
African. Not great value for money though. Very good+ 85/100 (£8.99
Sainsbury) 01/06
Spier
Inspire Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Western Cape, South Africa
Bright
and fruity with nice balance: a good drinking with at ease with itsefl,
and has a touch of herbal freshness and mild mannered grassiness. Very
good 82/100 (£5.99 Somerfield, Morrisons) 12/05
Eben
Sadie Sequillo 2003 Malmesbury, South Africa
If you can’t afford Eben Sadie’s fantastic Columella red wine,
then why not try his Sequillo. It’s still not cheap, but it’s pretty
good stuff. A blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache, it offers a
perfumed, sweet nose of red fruits with some meatiness in the background.
The palate is smooth and ripe with lovely freshness to the fruit, backed
up by some savoury spiciness. This is delicious for current drinking. Very
good/excellent 92/100 (£15 Jeroboams, Richards Walford) 11/05
Charles
Back Chenin Blanc Viognier 2005 Paarl, South Africa
A distinctive dry white with a fresh limey edge to the rich peachy
fruit on the nose. The palate combines freshness and richness very
effectively: a nicely balanced wine with some personality. (£7.99
Somerfield) 03/06
Joubert Tradauw Syrah 2004 Tradouw, South Africa
This is a new wine from an ambitious new producer whose heart seems to
be in the right place (even if the other wine of theirs I tried seemed
pretty bretty). A naturally fermented Syrah, this has a nose of sweet,
ripe red and black fruits, together with some tarriness and minerality.
The palate is sweet and quite lush with punchy, ripe, spicy fruit.
There’s some tannic structure, but at the moment it is dominated by
sweet, accessible fruit backed up by spicy new oak. A forward, new
world-style red, but one that will likely develop complexity with age.
Very good/excellent 91/100 (£9.99 Oddbins) 04/06
Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2005 Stellenbosch, South
Africa
I’m a big fan of Ken’s Chenins, and this one strikes a nice line
between commercial accessibility and that ever so slightly funky Chenin
character that sets this variety apart. There’s a herby, lemony edge to
the rich, plump oak-enhanced fruit, together with just a hint of dry hay.
Very tasty. Very good+ 89/100 (£6.99 Waitrose, on offer at £5.99) 04/06
Vergelegen ‘The Vergelegen’ 2001 Helderberg,
South Africa
Perhaps South Africa’s best Bordeaux-style red? A blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, with just a dash of cabernet franc. This is a
beautiful wine with sweet, ripe red and black fruit backed up by
ultra-smooth tannic structure and with a chalky, minerally edge.
Modern-styled, but great balance. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£19.99
Tesco) 09/05
Glen
Carlou Syrah 2004 Paarl, South Africa
I'm going to be recommending plenty of the wines I tried on my recent
visit to South Africa, but I thought I'd get this one in quick while you
can still get it - the influential Platter Guide has just named this as
their wine of the year, so it will disappear from shelves fast. It's a
modern, sleek, ripe style of Syrah with the sweet dark fruit supplemented
by notes of black olive and savoury herbs. There's a subtle green streak I
often find in South African reds, but it's in control. The vanilla oak
adds a sheen to the fruit without dominating it: overall, this is quite a
convincing, nicely structured wine. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£13.99
Oddbins) 12/05
Glen Carlou Tortoise Hill Red 2003 Paarl,
South Africa
Deep coloured. Lovely nose of ripe black fruits with a minerally,
tarry edge. Quite refined. The palate has a nice balance between the sweet
dark fruits and the spicy, earthy structure. There's a slightly meaty
richness to this win that is very appealing. Very good+ 89/100 (£6.99
Oddbins, sawinesonline.co.uk, Christopher Piper, George Hills) 10/05
Kumala
Rosé 2005 Western Cape, South Africa
Dark
pink, this has a sweet boiled sweets, cherry and strawberry nose. The
palate is fruity and a bit confected. OK 72/100 (£3.48 Tesco) 06/05
Oracle Pinotage 2004 Western Cape, South Africa
Lovely ripe, rich, sweetly fruited nose with a slightly tarry vanilla
edge and a hint of herbal character. Quite forward and delicious. The
palate has lovely balance with a nice spicy vanillin sheen to the vibrant
berry and plum fruit. Modern and quite sophisticated. Very good+ 87/100 (£4.99
Oddbins) 02/05
Older notes, arranged by
region
Constantia Back to top
Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Constantia, South Africa
Sauvignon Blanc can get a little boring, but
it’s an incredibly useful grape that makes wines that drink well with a
wide range of foods, or even on their own. This is a very good one. Full,
open nose with blackcurrant (yes) and herb notes: quite aromatic and full.
The palate is concentrated and ripe with a lovely grassy edge to the rich
fruit. Impressive full flavoured style. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£7.99
Sainsbury) 07/04
Buitenverwachting Buiten Blanc 2002 Constantia, South
Africa
Lovely and fresh. Light with a nice delicacy and some grassiness. Joyful
stuff for lunchtime drinking. Very good+ 02/03
Buitenverwachting
Rhine Riesling 2001 Constantia, South Africa
Very fresh, intense limey nose with a hint of grassiness. The palate
is crisp and dry with good acidity. Quite youthful tasting and very fresh.
I reckon this will develop some more. Very good+ (£6.99 Oddbins) 03/03
Groot Constantia Chardonnay 2002 Constantia, South Africa
Quite fresh and modern with yeasty aromas. The 14.5% alcohol is a bit
overpowering, but when you see the big fat Chardonnay grapes on the vine,
pinky orange with sunburn, you can see that they’re pretty ripe. Very
good 02/03
Steenberg Merlot 2000, Constantia, South Africa
Slightly faded colour. Bright blackcurranty herby fruit on the
nose. Lots of pure berry fruit on the palate. Good concentration, but
overall a slightly old-fashioned style with an austere finish. Very
good+ (£9.99)
05/03
Groot Constantia Sauvignon Blanc 2000, Constantia, South Africa
(Tasted blind) Aromatic nose with a fresh grassy character and a little
bit of herbiness. The palate shows fruity richness combined with high
acidity; there's a touch of sweetness on the finish. Well made, fairly
intense Sauvignon in a new world style. Very good+ 04/01
Groot Constantia Gouverneurs Reserve 1999, Constantia, South Africa
(Tasted blind) This is a fascinating full-on red, with an exotic nose
showing complex herby, menthol and eucalyptus aromas, along with mint and
blackberry notes. The full, dry palate has rich fruit and tannins: it's a
ripe, meaty, savoury wine. Tastes expensive! I was a bit surprised to find
that this is a £12 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinotage. Very
good/excellent 04/01
Buitenverwatching ‘Christine’ 1996, Constantia
There’s a slightly leafy, herbaceous edge to the chalky, spicy nose.
Midweight palate has a nice spicy edge to the fruit. A bit light? Very
good. 05/02
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1997, Constantia, South
Africa
This is sensationally good. A deep yellow/orange colour the nose
shows lovely, complex crystallized fruit and marmalade character: it
is sweet and rich with a little lifted acidity to keep it lively. The
palate is intense, complex and well balanced despite the sweetness.
Quite brilliant. Excellent (£21.50/50 cl Waitrose)
10/02
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1995, Constantia, South
Africa
This is the modern recreation of the wine that was famous from the
17th to 19th centuries, and even got a mention from Dickens! It’s a deep
golden/orange colour and has a lovely nose of sweet citrus fruit and
orange peel, with a bit of spice. The palate is rich and complex, with
good balance between the fruit and spiciness. Not too sweet, this is
lovely stuff with a brilliant
texture. Very good/excellent 04/02
Klein Constantia Rhine Riesling 1998, Constantia, South Africa
Light coloured wine with a slight petillance. Attractive, taut, crisp white wine with good
concentration and a pleasant citrus edge. On the palate there is complex, lemony fruit.
There is probably potential for evolution here; overall it is a bargain. Very good.
(£4.99 Oddbins) 08/00
Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc 1998, Constantia, South Africa
From an estate with a good reputation for Sauvignon, I was a little bit disappointed by
this alcoholic monster (it weighs in at 14.5%). Full-bodied and richly textured, with a
distinctive grassy edge. Quite intense, but lacking a real cutting edge. OK/Good. (£6.99,
Oddbins) 08/00
Buitenverwatching Sauvignon Blanc 1998, Constantia, South Africa
A ripe, fat-textured, full flavoured Sauvignon with crisp acidity to keep it fresh. Cut
grass elements predominate on the nose, which are followed up with a rich, lively, spicy
palate. Very different to the Marlborough NZ style, but just as interesting. Very good.
(Oddbins £7.69) 07/00
Franschoek Back to top
La Cotte Cabernet Sauvignon 1996, Franschoek, South Africa
Lovely sweet spicy nose with a warm, dusty character. On the palate there's prominent
lemony acidity and the fruit is drying out a bit. It's drinking very nicely now, but drink
up soon. Very good+ 2/01
Stonybrook Estate Pinotage 1999, Franschoek, South
Africa
Lovely, dense, tannic wine in a modern style. This lacks the rather rustic, funky
character that many Pinotages express, and it is better for it. This is impressive stuff,
with rich, ripe fruit and nice texture. Very good/excellent. (Adnams £8.95) 11/00
Chamonix Reserve Chardonnay 1997, Franschoek, South
Africa
(Tasted blind, note as written) A deep yellow colour, this has an
intense, savoury, herbal nose with a distinct vegetal edge: powerful fruit
is competing with the oak. Serious, complex, taut youthful palate has a
tough high-acid finish. It’s all very concentrated and tight knit at the
moment, but it’s a very substantial, savoury white wine. Plenty of oak,
but plenty of fruit as well, and potential for development. I’d guess
that this was a fairly serious, modern-styled white Burgundy. Very
good/excellent 11/01
Chamonix Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, Western Cape, South
Africa
(Tasted blind, note as written) Deep purple/red colour. Intense nose
showing savoury, spicy red berry fruit with a sweet blackcurrant/minty
edge. The palate is rich, savoury and quite evolved with firm, dry tannins
on the finish. Good concentration, but beginning to dry out a little, so
drink up. This is clearly a new world Cabernet with some age, and my guess
would be that it’s from South Africa. Very good 11/01
Paarl Back to top
Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2001 Paarl, South Africa
Intensely fruity with good acidity and some toasty, spicy complexity
from well judged oak. Really attractive with lots of character and some
elegance. Very good/excellent (68 Rand) 02/03
Homtini 2000 Paarl, South Africa
93% Shiraz and 7% Viognier from Anthony
de Jager. Unusual stuff. It is slightly green round the edges with some
sweet berry fruit, and a touch of meatiness. Made in a modern style. Some
structure. Very good+ 02/03
Fairview Cyril Back Shiraz 2000, Paarl, South Africa
Pure berry fruit nose leads to a palate displaying rich, ripe
berry fruit, good acidity and a tarry, slightly medicinal edge.
Attractive. Very good+ (£8.99 Waitrose) 10/02
Nederburg Private Bin S354 1987, Special Late Harvest,
Paarl
A late-harvested Chenin Blanc, this is a deep yellow/orange colour. It
has an inviting spicy nose displaying lifted apricotty, marmaladey fruit, a
touch of caramel and some piercing lime notes. The palate shows good balance
between the acidity and the sweetness, with more of the marmalade and lime
character. Quite rich textured, this is delicious. Very good/excellent 11/01
Veenwouden Vivat Bacchus 1998, Paarl, South Africa
A blend of Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. (Tasted
blind, note as written.) Sweet nose of supple, ripe fruit leads to a soft,
slightly spicy palate with rich berry fruit. It’s a bit chalky.
Mouthfilling wine with a lush texture, some complexity and a touch of
tannin. Seamless. Reminds me of a Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon.
Very good+ 07/01
Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 1995, Paarl,
South Africa
Deep purple/black colour. Sweet blackcurrant fruit with cedar and herby notes, followed by
a touch of vegetal character. Good concentration. Quite Bordeaux-like rather than new
world in style. The firm tannins suggest that this wine needs some time to open out fully.
Very good + (£10.99 Tesco) 6/00
Plaisir de Merle Chardonnay 1997, Paarl
A very modern South African Chardonnay that almost gets it right. Light textured, subtle,
but with noticeable toasty oak, this is a fresh Chardonnay with some bottle age. Lean and
balanced in character, but a bit light in texture and fruit to carry the oak. Good.
(£8.99 Tesco) 8/00
Fairview Merlot 1997, Paarl, South Africa
A disappointing wine: quite subdued on both nose and palate, with savoury
character and dry tannins. Good structure and concentration, but no real interest. OK.
(£5.99 Fullers, on sale at £3.99) 3/00
Veenwouden Classic 1995, Paarl
Bordeaux style blend, this is a deep, concentrated red/black colour. Big, ripe
cassis nose, backed up with strong but velvety tannic structure. There is a little
sweetness from the upfront fruit and the oak, but there is plenty of complexity too. Tasty
now, this should improve for a few years to come. Very good. 7/99
Robertson Back to top
Springfield Estate Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2000,
Robertson
Attractive chalky, earthy edge to the nose with some vivid
blackcurrant fruit on the palate. Brightly fruited but slightly austere:
savoury with a medicinal, herbaceous edge. Despite the good concentration,
this herbaceous edge is a little off-putting. Very good (£7.99 Wannop
Wines) 08/02
Excelsior Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Roberston, South
Africa
Good concentration. Pure, ripe blackcurrant and cherry fruit
dominates this wine, which is warm and approachable with an attractive
spicy finish. Brilliant commercial winemaking. Very good+ (£4.99
Waitrose) 10/02
Danie De Wet Bataleur Chardonnay 1998, Robertson, South Africa
Remarkably expressive high-end South African Chardonnay, with a full nose of
toasty, nutty barrel-ferment character and a concentrated palate of lemony fruit, minerals
and high acidity. Despite the new oak, this wine is not at all fat: I suspect it was not
allowed to undergo full malolactic fermentation, and the resulting bright acidity really
brings this complex wine to life. Very good/excellent (£12, Fortnum and Mason) 7/00
De Wetshof Estate Bateleur Chardonnay 1998, Robertson, South Africa
Geisenheim-trained Danie De Wet is a Chardonnay specialist, and this is his top wine -- in
my book this is a real winner. It has a stunning, complex, nutty nose; not overblown, but
quite restrained, with hints of butterscotch, minerals and toast. On the palate the wine
shows a spicy complexity: it's mineralic, has good lemony acidity and is concentrated yet
lean. Thoroughly enjoyable, and not at all the typical new world style, despite the
relatively prominent oak influence. Excellent (£12 Fortnum & Mason) 1/01
De Wetshof Estate Lesca Chardonnay 1998, Robertson, South Africa
A crisp, fresh and full flavoured Chardonnay, with attractive nutty and toasty character.
There is firm acidity, and a slight bitterness on the palate. This is a nice, savoury dry
white with well judged but noticeable oak, which represents good value for money.
Good/very good. (£5.99 Sainsbury) 8/00
Graham Beck Lone Hill Chardonnay 1998, Robertson, South Africa
A classy barrel fermented Chardonnay at a good price (100% barrel fermentation in French
oak; 50% new, 50% second use). Full lemony nose with an edge of vanilla and toast. On the
palate there is ripe, rich fruit with nice oaking (nutty and rich-textured), and there's
some lemony acidity. Quite a modern-styled wine, but very well balanced and extremely
sophisticated for the price. Very good+ (£5.99, Wine Rack, Bottoms Up, Thresher)
1/00
Graham Beck Waterside White 2001, Robertson, South Africa
This producer is turning out an impressive, modern-styled range of wines.
Unfortunately, this is one of their rare misses. It starts off well with a
striking nose of tropical fruit, but despite the lively acidity the palate
is short and a bit rough, which ruins things a little. Good (Sainsbury
£4.49) 09/01
Graham Beck Lone Hill Chardonnay 1998, Robertson, South Africa
100% barrel fermented in a mix of new and second fill French oak. A rich,
concentrated wine with brisk acidity, well-judged oak and smoky, mineral-laced, nutty
complexity. Very good + (£6.99, Thresher) 7/00
Rooiberg Winery Chardonnay 1999, Robertson, South Africa
Neutral, lean and acidic Chardonnay without much character. Dull. (Safeway £3.99) 8/00
Stellenbosch
Back to top
Vergelegen ‘Vergelegen’ 2000
Stellenbosch, South
Africa
(Tasted blind, note as written) Lovely savoury, rich intense nose with
some chalky minerality. The palate is concentrated and minerally with rich
but elegant fruit. Great concentration and some spiciness with good
structure. Quite a bold style, somewhere between the new world and old
world. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£24.99 Oddbins) 03/04
Kumala’s
Journey’s End Chardonnay 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
This premium Chardonnay, fashioned from hand-picked grapes barrel
fermented in new French oak, is delicious. It has a remarkably complex
nose of ripe, intense figgy fruit with a rich, slightly sweet spicy
character, together with some nutty, toasty notes. The palate is rich and
ripe with sweet edged, spicy creamy fruit and nutty richness. A big
Chardonnay made in a very classy style. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£14.99
Waitrose) 09/03
Kumala
Winemaker's Selection Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Western Cape, South
Africa
I wasn't
expecting a great deal from this wine - an upmarket brand from an
undefined vineyard source ('Western Cape' is a catch-all encompassing the
vast majority of South Africa's winelands) - but I try to be
open-minded, and was actually very impressed. It shows a sweet,
cinnamon-spiced nose with rich fruit and a chocolatey, tarry edge. Very
smooth and accessible. The palate is surprisingly elegant with smooth,
sweetly spiced fruit and elegant tannins. Good concentration, but the
winemakers have clearly been aiming at elegance rather than raw power.
Impressively crafted, this is a high quality red. Very good/excellent (£9.99
Threshers) 08/03
Ken Forrester FM Chenin Blanc 2001 Stellenbosch, South
Africa
Aged in 400 litre new French oak barrels this is a serious
interpretation of this oft-despised but fascinating grape. Deep coloured,
it has a slightly closed taut, woody nose. This leads to a thick textured
herby, straw-like palate boasting huge concentration. Almost medium sweet.
Very classy and unusual. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£14.99 Waitrose)
04/03
Thelema Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Very classy. Lovely herby, grassy complexity to the nose with some
rich fruity aromatics. Palate is well balanced with a good concentration
of grassy fruit. Nicely poised acidity. Very good/excellent (£11.99
Sainsbury) 90 04/03
Ken Forrester Scholtzenhof Petit Chenin 2002 Stellenbosch
Nicely savoury, herby nose with good intensity and straw-like notes.
The palate is dry, savoury, rich and herby. Some depth to it and real
varietal character, which is remarkable for the price. Almost profound.
Very good+ (£3.99 Oddbins) 04/03
Ken Forrester Scholtzenhof Petit Chenin 2002 Stellenbosch
Nicely savoury, herby nose with good intensity and straw-like notes.
The palate is dry, savoury, rich and herby. Some depth to it and real
varietal character, which is remarkable for the price. Almost profound.
Very good+ (£3.99 Oddbins) 04/03
Vergelegen Mill Race Red 2001 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Classic Bordeaux-style cedary, slightly leafy nose with spicy
blackcurrant fruit. The palate is spicy and firm with good definition to
the plumy berry and blackcurrant fruit. Some tannin. Nicely structured and
very classy for the price (41 Rand). Very good+ 02/03
Jordan Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Fresh gooseberry and fig flavours. Good concentration with nice
acidity. Very well made: fresh and clean with a hint of herbaceousness.
Very good+ (72 Rand in a restaurant) 02/03
L’Avenir Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Fresh ripe and crisp with lovely fruit quality. Very appealing and
well put together. Very good+ 02/03
Stellenzicht Golden Triangle Chardonnay 2000 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
Fresh lemony fruit on the nose with a toasty oak overlay. Fresh and
focused on the palate, this is light, crisp and quite woody. An attractive
commercial style. Very good (76.50 Rand, restaurant) 02/03
Thelema Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Very full flavoured and grassy with aromatic, slightly herby fruit.
Great intensity and nicely poised with good acidity. Very good/excellent
(58 Rand) 02/03
Delheim Shiraz 2001 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Deep coloured. Lovely savoury roasted nose with smoky, spicy notes.
Good concentration of rich, savoury spicy fruit on the palate with an
attractive, slightly meaty nose. Full and ripe with well judged oak: an
unabashed new world style. Very good/excellent (72 Rand) 02/03
Slayley Shiraz 1999 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Forward, sweet, almost exotic nose with ripe sweet berry fruit,
vanilla oak and a depth of meaty, smoky bacon character – it’s almost
animally. Concentrated, ripe palate with a savoury, spicy, meaty edge.
Impressive and distinctly South African; in a modern style with some
varietal character. Very good/excellent 11/02
Lanzerac Classic 2000, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Matured for 15 months in new French oak barrels, this is quite
brilliant, in a modern style. Very striking, intense nose displaying
complex licquorice and menthol notes together with vivid ripe fruit.
The palate is rich, bold and intense; dense and modern with ripe fruit
and firm tannins. Hugely satisfying and intense. Very good/excellent
(£11.99 Waitrose) 10/02
Avontuur Pinotage 2000, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Winemaker Lizelle Gerber has used 30% new oak barrels (mostly
French) on this full throttle Pinotage. Striking rich, liquoricey nose
with sweet fruit. Rich, concentrated savoury palate is quite striking
and lovely. Modern styled, sweet and dense. Difficult to spot as
Pinotage. Very good/excellent (£8.99 Waitrose) 10/02
Grangehurst Pinotage 1995, Stellenbosch
One of South Africa’s most celebrated Pinotages, with a few years
bottle age. Quite an earthy, leathery nose with some undergrowth
character. The savoury, spicy palate has a chunky texture. Attractive, and
with good concentration. Very good+ 05/02
Waterford
Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, Stellenbosch, South Africa
The first vintage of this wine, from a 120 ha estate owned by
Jeremy Ord. The winemaker is Kevin Arnold, formerly of Rust en Vrede.
Deep coloured. Very rich, seductive nose of ripe blackcurrant fruit
with a creamy edge. The palate shows a good concentration of ripe
berry fruit. A forward, modern style but with good balance.
Attractive. Very good/excellent (£11.95 Berry Bros) 04/02
Thelema Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Stellenbosch
Delicious, and quite a striking example of Sauvignon Blanc. Gorgeous
aromatic nose of gooseberries and cut grass; quite herby and full. Lovely
full flavoured palate with great balance and intensity. Highly impressive.
Very good/excellent (£11.50 La Vigneronne) 11/01
Verdun Chardonnay 1998 Stellenbosch
Superb creamy/toasty nose is very classy indeed, with mealy, bready
undertones. Delicious nutty/toasty palate. This is a full-on barrel
fermented style, but retains balance well. Very good/excellent 11/01
Thelema Merlot 1998, Stellenbosch
Quite deep coloured with a pronounced, sweet nose of creamy cassis.
The palate has a savoury, spicy edge but is dominated by sweet, ripe berry
fruit. Very forward and attractive. Very good/excellent (£12.95 La
Vigneronne) 11/01
Stellenzicht Syrah 1998, Stellenbosch
Watch out here: Stellenzicht make two wines from this grape, and
people often get them confused. The Shiraz is a good £8 wine, but it is
this, the Syrah, that has become famous, principally for once beating
Penfolds Grange in a high-profile blind tasting. This is a deep coloured,
rich, ripe, lush nose with a spicy, roasted edge. The palate is savoury
with great concentration but a slight green olive/vegetal edge that spoils
things a bit. Very modern styled wine: quite attractive, but the vegetal
hint is a slight let down. Very good+ (c. £25 where available) 11/01
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, Stellenbosch
Really delicious nose of blackcurrant fruit with a savoury mineral
edge. Beautifully poised. Palate is quite savoury with lots of spicy,
minerally chalky elements adding complexity. There’s a hint of olives on
the finish and some tannins, but ripe and drinking well now. Very
good/excellent (£16.50 La Vigneronne) 11/01
Verdun Theresa 1997, Stellenbosch
A blend of 80% Cabernet and 20% Merlot. With its deep colour this is
clearly quite an ambitious wine, but the nose is a little muted. Savoury,
spicy palate showing meaty, green olive-tinged berry fruit. Good density
but there’s a slightly vegetal edge that spoils things a bit.
Disappointing. Good/very good (£15.95 La Vigneronne) 11/01
Warwick Estate Cabernet Franc 1995 Stellenbosch
Quite deep coloured. Sweet, open nose of berry fruit leads to a chewy,
savoury palate with good balance and some earthy tannins. Drinking well;
just lacks a tiny bit of excitement. Very good+ 11/01
Warwick Estate Cabernet Franc 1990 Stellenbosch
The nose is quite evolved, dominated by caramel with support from the
sweet berry fruit and a touch of minerality. The palate is drying a little
but shows lovely chalky fruit. Great balance and may evolve some more.
Very good+ 11/01
Saxenberg ‘Private Collection’ Shiraz 1998
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Unusual, rather meaty, herbaceous nose with lots of green olive
character. Cola-edged raspberry and blackcurrant fruit on the palate.
Seems just a touch unripe, but it’s meaty and concentrated and there’s
certainly some appeal here. Very good+ 10/02
Saxenburg 'Gwendolyn' Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, Stellenbosch
A concentrated deep red/purple colour, this ambitious wine has an open
nose of berry fruit, spice, olives and cut green peppers. The palate shows
sweet rounded fruit flavours but there's a slightly green vegetal unripe
streak that spoils it a little. Good/very good (Oddbins £8.49 reduced to
£4.99) 10/01
Saxenburg Private Collection Sauvignon Blanc 1999, Stellenbosch
Full yellow/gold colour. Pronounced vegetal nose with grassy/green
pepper notes. Palate is concentrated with more of these grassy/green
pepper elements. Crisp and dry with a spicy edge to the finish.
Interesting but distinctly odd: the herbaceous, vegetal characters will be
a little off putting for some. Good (£6.49 reduced to £3.99 Oddbins)
10/01
Jordan Chardonnay 2000, Stellenbosch, South Africa
I'm generally a big fan of South African Chardonnays, and Jordan is a
winery with quite a reputation, but I wasn't overly keen on this one. It's
quite a deep colour. The nose is intense and nutty, with some spicy oak
and coffee elements. Palate is rich and butterscotch-edged with great
concentration, good acidity and some oak. Very savoury, but a tiny bit
crude. Very good (£8.50 Unwins) 11/01
Vergelegen Chardonnay Reserve 1998, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Rich nutty, toasty nose carries through to the palate. It's a rich,
classy, rounded wine. Full on, with plenty of oak, but good. Very
good/excellent (c. £10 Oddbins, Sainsbury) 10/01
Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Wonderfully expressive grassy, blackcurrant-tinged nose is ripe and
attractive. Good concentration of rounded gooseberry fruit on the palate:
it's exuberantly fruity, but with good acidity keeping things balanced.
Very impressive, and I'd be interested to see how this fared in a line-up
with some of New Zealand's leading Sauvignon Blancs. Very good/excellent
(£6.49 Sainsbury) 01/02
Delheim Shiraz 1999, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Lots of character here. A deep coloured wine, with a pronounced meaty,
stinky and heb-tinged nose. The palate is powerful and savoury, with
herby, olive-laced fruit and a slight medicinal edge. Good tannin and
acidity. Tastes like a burly Crozes Hermitage with a tiny bit of
unripeness on the finish. A striking, impressive wine, but not to
everyone's taste. Very good+ (£7.99 Wine Rack) 10/01
Morgenhof Merlot/Malbec 1999, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch
There's an attractive burnt-toast, spicy quality to the nose, which leads to
a palate displaying savoury, rich fruit and a lovely spicy character. An
interesting, rich, well-priced red wine. Very good+ (£6.99 Handford) 08/01
Forrester's Petit Chenin 'Scholtzenhof' 2001, Stellenbosch
A really attractive, rounded, inexpensive white from Chenin specialist Ken
Forrester. A fresh, fruity aromatic nose with some herby notes leads to a
full flavoured palate showing appley notes, a bit of spice (a little French
oak is used here) and a trace of sweetness on the finish. Delicious stuff to
glug young. Very good+ (£3.99 Oddbins) 09/01
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, Stellenbosch
Now one of South Africa's hottest estates, and on this form it's not
hard to see why. A deep red/purple colour, this is a powerful, youthful wine
. Rich berry fruit on the palate is joined by spicy complexity: no doubt
this will develop with a few years bottle age. Very good/excellent 05/01
Thelema Chardonnay 1999, Stellenbosch
Lovely seductive nose of toasty, nutty oak is quite breathtaking. The
palate has an attractive nutty, savoury character, and is complex and full.
You wouldn't mistake this for Burgundy, but then it's not trying to be. Very
good/excellent 05/01
Rozendal 1996 Stellenbosch, South Africa
A Bordeaux-style blend from upcoming Stellenbosch winery Rozendal, this is a superb
effort. The 80% Merlot helps make this a lush, seductive wine. The full, smoky-rich nose
leads to a dense, mouthfilling palate with lush blackcurrant fruit, a mineral core, spicy
tannins and juicy acidity to round it off. Very good/excellent (£14.95 Handford Wine)
1/01
Warwick Estate Chardonnay 1999, Stellenbosch
A powerful, ripe, full-flavoured Chardonnay with rich fruit and a nutty mineral streak.
The gorgeous fruit easily overwhelms the oak. Great power and good balance. Very
good/excellent (£6.99 Waitrose) 11/00
Warwick Estate Chardonnay 2000, Stellenbosch, South Africa
The 1999 version of this wine was a real stunner, and while this latest
release is a good wine, it's not quite in the same league. The 2000
incarnation is seamless and rounded, but very oaky (although the back label
claims light wooding). The toasty, buttery nose has notes of caramel and
coffee. The palate is full flavoured, with vanilla notes and buttery fruit.
Quite an attractive style, but owes a lot to the oak. Very good (£6.99
Waitrose) 3/01
Thelema Chardonnay 1998, Stellenbosch
One of South Africa's most famed Chardonnays, the 1998 vintage is a big but refined wine
that carries its 15% alcohol well. It has a rich nose of toasty oak with a creamy, ripe
character. It's savoury and rich on the palate, with nutty and lemon notes and great
concentration and balance. Overall it is quite soft, with good balancing oak. Very good +
(£11.99 Noel Young) 8/00
Clos Malverne Auret 1996, Stellenbosch
A Cabernet Sauvignon/Pinotage blend, this is a tasty but slightly odd wine. It has a ripe,
sweet cassis nose, with leafy, herbaceous elements. The palate follows this, with cedary,
leafy complexity and an odd bitterness on the finish, with a sort of cheesy/metallic tang.
OK. 8/00
Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 1999, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Chenin Blanc is South Africa's most common white variety, and most often goes to make
simple, inexpensive and rather plonkish wines. But this is a serious effort, made from 24
year old bush vines and barrel fermented. Gold in colour, this has a lovely toasty, smoky
and honeyed nose, with a creamy, wet wool edge. On the palate it is richly textured and
toasty, the spicy oak combining well with the concentrated, ripe fruit. Overall, nice
varietal character is combined well with careful oaking, to make a complex, attractive
wine. Very good/excellent. (£5.69 Oddbins) 8/00
Warwick Estate Chardonnay 1999, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Rich, intense, nutty and toasty Chardonnay with a dense, mineral-laced palate and high
acidity. This is a huge savoury wine that represents excellent value for money. Really
interesting, perhaps a little rough round the edges for some. Very good + (£6.99,
Waitrose) 7/00
Meerlust Rubicon 1995, Stellenbosch, South Africa
A beast of a wine, displaying a dry, herby, menthol nose that gives way to a deep and
savoury palate of blackcurrants, herbs, earthy notes and firm tannins. It is concentrated,
hugely structured and savoury, and will probably need some serious cellaring to show at
its best. Very good + (Fortnum & Mason, Oddbins, £14) 7/00
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 1994, Stellenbosch, South Africa
One of South Africa's top red wines, living up to its billing. Concentrated red/purple
colour with a lovely nose of blackcurrants, herbs, minerals and cedar wood. On the palate
this is savoury and beautifully rounded, with a dry earthiness. The firm tannins suggest
that this has a good life ahead of it. Very good + 6/00
Thelema Merlot 1994, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Initially tannic and closed, it opens out after a while in the glass to reveal
attractive backcurrant and leafy fruit with some sweetness coming through. The oak is well
integrated. Overall, quite a serious wine that needs some time to show its best. 4/99
Blaauwklippen Special Late Harvest Chenin
Blanc 1998, Stellenbosch, South Africa
On the label it says that this was botrytised, but I cant
detect much evidence of the usual noble rot characters here. Slightly viscous, with muted
nose. Smooth on palate, this is fairly simple. A bit of spice, it is an OK medium sweet
sipper. (£4.99 Oddbins) 3/99
Sentinel Shiraz 1997, Stellenbosch,
Coppoolse Finlayson, Slayley winery
Deep purple red. Ripe, rich, peppery palate with noticeble vanilla oak. Smooth,
this has immediate upfront appeal. But it is a bit tarty, made in an
international style, with a big lemon acid kick, and makes tiring drinking. Boring.
(Oddbins £5.99) 3/99
Meerlust Rubicon 1994, Stellenbosch, South
Africa
Instantly identifiable as a South African wine. This has ripe fruit, smooth but
assertive tannins and a pleasant herbal quality. An attractive package, this may improve
with some bottle age. Good. 2/99
Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 1986, Stellenbosch
Savoury, tannic and herbal, this mature red is
drinking beautfiully now. It is herby, dry, intense and complex. Good stuff. 12/99
Saxenburg Merlot 1994, Stellenbosch
Reasonably tannic with rich merlot fruit. Lemony acidity backs up this finely
concentrated wine. Not first rate but close. Good. 7/99
Pinnacle Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch,
South Africa
Concentrated green leafy notes and cassis combine effectively with a bit of smoky
oak. Good, but not fully ripe, perhaps. Purity of fruit is appealing. (Tesco £5.99) 5/99
Walker Bay Back to top
Raoul’s Old Basket Press Rustic Red Tinta
Barocca 2001 Walker Bay, South Africa
An interesting red made from a Portuguese variety, with chocolate and
spice notes complementing the sweet black fruit on the nose. Concentrated
spicy palate is nicely rustic with firm, mouth-coating tannins and a
savoury finish. Very good+ (£6.49 Oddbins) 03/03
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2000, Walker Bay, South Africa
(Tasted blind) A full golden colour this has a rich, oaky nose with
smoky, nutty, toasty vanilla notes. The powerful palate has lots of oak
evident, with savoury citrus and coffee elements. It's currently a big,
powerful wine that's a little raw and intense; I was surprised to discover
its identity. Knowing Hamilton Russell's track record, I expect this wine to
harmonise and become much more integrated with a year or two in the bottle,
when it may merit a higher rating. Very good+ 04/01
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 1998, Walker Bay, South
Africa
Sensational! Rich, mineral-laden Chardonnay with smoky oak. A lovely, complex wine with
nicely handled oak. Although I've had this wine before on a couple of occasions, I've
never really understood why people have described it as 'Burgundian'. Now I do: this
concentrated yet nicely poised effort really impresses. (£11, Oddbins Fine Wine,
Bentalls, Berry Bros)
Beaumont Jackals River Pinotage 1999 Walker Bay
Raoul and Jayne Beaumont bought this property in 1973. Today there
are nearly 50 hectares of vineyards planted with a wide range of
varieties. Sweet, lush nose with creamy vanilla and coconut edge to
the herby fruit. Quite attractive and accessible with plenty of oak,
plumy herby fruit and a savoury, spicy finish. Quite refined cool
climate fruit, but it’s a little too oaky. Very good (£10.75 Berry
Bros) 03/02
See also: the wines of
Hamilton Russell
Western Cape Back to top
Obikwa Chenin Blanc 2004 Western Cape, South Africa
Fresh, bright lemony nose with some herbs and honey. The palate is
bright and fruity with plenty of freshness – an appealing quaffer with
some refinement. Very good 83/100 (£3.99 Oddbins) 02/05
Oracle
Pinotage 2001 Western Cape, South Africa
Big, open cheesy nose with herby, medicinal characters. The palate shows
ripe berry fruit with a sweet edge and some slightly animal notes. Very
appealing and savoury: quite an unusual wine. Very good (£4.99 Oddbins)
06/03
Obikwa
Chardonnay 2002 Western Cape, South Africa
Not overblown: nice and fruity, a little simple, but enjoyable with
good balance. Good/very good (£4.99 Oddbins) 06/03
Obikwa Chenin Blanc 2002 Western Cape, South Africa
Fresh appealing, gently herby nose. Nicely balanced fresh palate is
savoury with a little herby fruit and good acidity. Plenty of flavour here
and good balance. Very good (£3.79 Oddbins) 06/03
Tesco Unwind Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa
(no vintage indicated) Distinctive gooseberry and blackcurrant nose.
Palate is crisp and grassy with a herby edge. Quite fresh, tending a
little to the herbaceous excess of Sauvignon, but still nice. Very good 84
(Tesco £4.99) 04/03
Oracle Shiraz 2001
Western Cape, South Africa
Good concentration of sweet, spicy berry fruit with a gently herbal
quality to the finish. There’s just a hint of greenness that’s not
unpleasant. A modern forward style. Very good (£4.99 Oddbins) 03/03
Flagstone Noon Gun 2002 Western Cape, South Africa
An eclectic blend of Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay and Semillon. Very fresh fruity nose with a lemony, herby edge.
Very modern. The palate is quite intense, lemony and herby. Nicely
balanced with good acidity. Pleasant stuff and good value. Very good (£4.99
Oddbins) 04/03
Long Mountain Chardonnay 2002 Western Cape
Fresh ripe nose showing clean fruit with a lemony edge. The palate is
light with herb tinged fruit. Appealing commercial style and not too
confected. Maybe a little alcoholic on the finish. Good/very good (£3.98
Asda) 02/03
African Cape Chardonnay 2002 Western Cape
Very fruity nose with a touch of boiled sweets character. Clean, ripe
and fruity palate. Chilled down this is perfectly acceptable commercial
Chardonnay. Good+ (£3.22 Asda) 02/03
Long Mountain
Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Western Cape
Appealing ripe blackcurrant and berry fruit nose with some leafy,
spicy notes. Quite savoury on the palate, this is nicely balanced and
quite stylish for the price. Very good (£4.47 Asda) 02/03
Two Oceans Shiraz 2001 Western Cape
Pure juicy raspberry and berry fruit. Clean with good acidity, showing
good ripeness. Well made commercial style. Good/very good (£4.76 Asda)
02/03
Two Oceans Chardonnay 2002 Western Cape
Fully flavoured with a herby edge to the lemony fruit. There’s a
touch of spice and vanilla from the gentle oak influence. Appealing.
Good/very good (£4.76 Asda) 02/03
Asda African Cape Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Western Cape
Fresh, modern boiled sweets nose with some lemon grassiness. The
palate is crisp and grassy with good acidity. Good varietal character and
a bargain. Very good (£3.22 Asda) 02/03
Obikwa Chenin Blanc 2002 Western Cape
Fresh fruity nose with a lemony lift. The palate is clean and crisp
with more flavour than you’d expect for the price. Good acid, herby
edge. Very good (£3.49 Oddbins) 01/03
Fairview Goats du Roam 2002 Western Cape, South Africa
A lightly oaked blend of Grenache, Pinotage, Carignan, Shiraz,
Cinsault and Zinfandel. Vivid berry fruit nose with a savoury, herby
twist. Bright raspberry fruit dominates the palate, with a lovely
juicy, medicinal edge adding complexity. Dense and satisfying. Very
good+ (£4.99 Waitrose) 10/02
Fairview Goats do Roam 2001 Western Cape, South Africa
I’ve previously recommended the 2000 vintage of this brilliantly
successful blend of several different red grape varieties, and the 2001 is
equally good. A vivid red/purple colour, attractive ripe, sweet raspberry
fruit dominates, but there’s also some savoury, meaty complexity. Good
acidity and not at all confected, this has to be one of the very best reds
at this price point. (£4.99 Tesco, Majestic, Oddbins and others) 09/02
KWV Sauvignon Blanc 2000, Western Cape, South Africa
Bright, fresh wine with a crisp, green nose. Quite typical of South African Sauvignon
Blanc (don't expect the gooseberries and elderflowers typical of New Zealand Sauvignon),
but while its tasty enough, there's a slight greenness to this is a bit off-putting. Good
(Widely available, £4.99) 2/01
Winds of Change Chardonnay 1998, Western Cape,
South Africa
Made by a 'communal property association' at Sonop wine farm, this is an import by the
innovative Western Wines. It shows lemony fruit with a bitter finish. Lean and a little
bit dirty on the nose. Crisp acidity. Disappointing. (£4.99 Tesco) 8/00
Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 1998, Western Cape, South Africa
From Anthony Hamilton Russells new Walker Bay venture comes this attractive but full
bodied Sauvignon. Its quite alcoholic (13.5%), with a cut grass nose and a rounded,
full-textured palate. There are smoky, mineralic notes, followed up with an acidic kick.
Attractive and refined, very much in the South African style. Its a cute gimmick to
donate some of the proceeds from each sale to saving the Southern Right whale. Good/very
good. (£5.99, Oddbins) 8/00
Kumala Chardonnay 2000, Western Cape, South Africa
A fresh, lemony Chardonnay with a touch of buttery, oaky fatness on the palate. Nicely
made, inexpensive Chardonnay that could have come from just about anywhere. Modern but
good. (£3.99 Sainsbury) 7/00
KWV Roodeberg 1997, Western Cape
Pleasant, savoury red with attractive
berry-fruit nose, some leafy herbaceousness and a dry, spicy palate. Medium concentration;
not sweetly oaky or confected like many modern-styled reds. A good food wine. (£5.49,
Fullers) 12/99
Other regions Back to top
Mont de Toit Hawequas 2002 Coastal Region, South Africa
Ripe, sweet fruit dominates this deep coloured red, which displays
black fruits with a savoury meaty character, together with some sweet
herby notes. Very approachable and with good concentration, although the
alcohol is perhaps a little high. Very good+ 88/100 (Corney & Barrow)
12/03
Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Coastal
Region, South Africa
I’m very impressed with the Porcupine Ridge cheapies from star
Franschoek winery Boekenhoutskloof, with my favourite being the lively,
meaty Syrah (recommended last month). This Sauvignon isn’t as showy as
some examples, but it shows class. Tight, limey nose with some grassy,
spicy notes. The palate shows a good concentration of grassy fruit with
good acidity. Very youthful tasting but high quality. Very good+ 88/100 (£5.99
Oddbins) 02/04
Porcupine Ridge Shiraz 2002 South
Africa
This is quite brilliant, and one of my favourite wines at this price
bracket in a while. It's from Boekenhoutskloof, a winery making a name for
its premium Shiraz, and is unashamedly forward in its style, offering
masses of sweet, rich, meaty fruit. There's a hint of the Rhône here,
although the richness and sweetness of the fruit is very new world. A full
flavoured meaty red of wide appeal. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£6.99
Waitrose) 12/03
Goats du Roam in Villages 2003 Coastal Region,
South Africa
This is a real bruiser. Unsubtle and great fun. Ripe, meaty, roasted
toasty edge to the nose: dark and spicy. The palate is intense and
concentrated with dark, sweet fruit backed up with a slightly rustic,
meaty, spicy savouriness. Just a hint of bitter plumminess to the fruit. A
very satisfying winter warmer with some medicinal hints, a touch of
roasted toasty new oak, and lots of very ripe, dense fruit. Very good+
89/100 (Majestic £6.99) 10/04
Diemersfontein Pinotage 2004 Wellington, South
Africa
Winemaker Bertus Fourie has fashioned a remarkably forward, modern,
classy Pinotage that totally succeeds in taming the funkier aspects of
this grape. It’s dark coloured and has an alluring nose of smoky,
roasted dark fruits. Sweet ripe and meaty. The palate is savoury, spicy
and quite rich with a nice stucture and more of that roasted character.
Chocolatey richness, too. A crowd pleaser. Very good+ 89/100 (£6.99
Asda, Waitrose) 04/05
Swartland Winery Pinotage 2003 Swartland, South
Africa
Deep colour. Lovely rich plum and blackcurrant nose is very fruity
with a dark spicy element in the background. The palate is ripe, juicy and
fruity with really vibrant berry and blackcurrant fruit. Quite delicious
as an easy drinking, yet substantial wine. Hardly any funk. Very good+
87/100 (£3.99 Majestic) 02/05
Eben Sadie Palladius 2002 Swartland, South Africa
£30 for a South African white? Am I out of my mind? Perhaps, but this
is a very good wine indeed. Made from bush vine Viognier, Chardonnay and
old vin Chenin, fermented for 14 months with wild yeasts followed by 12
months on lees with a small proportion of new oak. The nose is bright and
intense, showing pure, rich, herby fruit. Very classy. The palate has a
lovely, rich, fat rounded structure with softness and intensity at the
same time. It’s a thrilling, unusual wine. Very good/excellent 94/100 (£30
Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com)
01/05
Goats
du Roam in Villages 2003 Coastal Region, South Africa
A
big bold monster of a red wine; it isn’t subtle, but if you’re in the
mood for it, this is delicious. A rich, ripe chocolatey spicy nose leads
to a dense rich palate with lots of sweet fruit. There’s some oak here
too. Boldly rustic, this is a wine with the volume knob turned up to 11,
and traditionalists will hate it. Very good+ 89/100 (Tesco £5.99) 06/05
Excelsior
Viognier 2004 Robertson, South Africa
Viognier
is fast becoming the new Chardonnay. It used to be a niche grape – a
curiosity – resticted to the northern Rhône, but now people have woken
up to its unique capabilities. And of late, even inexpensive Viogniers are
tasting like the real deal. This is a brilliant example, showing peachy,
rich fruit with a lemony edge. Perfumed and open. It has a rich, broad,
fruity palate with more of that peach character; flat without being
flabby, and absolutely delicious. Very good+ 88/100 (Waitrose £5.99)
06/05
Robertson Winery Chenin Blanc 2004 Robertson, South
Africa
Lovely fresh modern white with a herby, straw-like edge I often find
in good Chenin. The palate is fresh with good acidity and some nice
savouriness. A versatile white wine with lots of interest. Very good+
87/100 (£4.99 Majestic) 02/05
Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Coastal Region, South Africa
I’m very impressed with the Porcupine Ridge cheapies from star
Franschoek winery Boekenhoutskloof, with my favourite being the lively,
meaty Syrah (recommended last month). This Sauvignon isn’t as showy as
some examples, but it shows class. Tight, limey nose with some grassy,
spicy notes. The palate shows a good concentration of grassy fruit with
good acidity. Very youthful tasting but high quality. Very good+ 88/100 (£5.99
Oddbins) 02/04
De Wetshof Lesca
Chardonnay 2002 Robertson, South Africa
Tight minerally lemony nose with a light, toasty, nutty veneer. The
palate is fresh and nutty with well integrated oak and some richness to
the lemony fruit. Good acidity. Fresh and very classy. Very good/excellent
(Majestic) 03/03
Goat d’Afrique ‘Indigenous Red’ 2002 South Africa
The latest addition to the Goats du Roam range is a dark, brooding Shiraz
with a smoky, spicy nose and restrained black fruits. The palate is dense
and concentrated with well judged spicy fruit and some firm tannins. Firm
and quite rich but not overblown or confected. Very good+ 89 (£6.99
Oddbins) 05/03
Raats Family Wines Chenin Blanc Unwooded ‘Original’
2002 Coastal Region, South Africa
Intense nose of rich, herb-tinged fruit with some lemony floral notes.
Concentrated ripe fruit on the palate which is very herby and intense.
Almost sweetly fruited, but the overall impression is dry. A bold style
that would suit spicy fruit. Very good+ (£6.99 Oddbins) 04/03
Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Coastal Region
An intense, rich expression of Sauvignon Blanc boasting rich grassy
fruit with a figgy edge. Quite aromatic. The palate is broad and fruity
with tropical fruit notes and a slightly herby edge. Fresh, crisp and
rich, this is impeccable commercial winemaking. Very good/excellent (£7.49
Sainsbury) 04/03
Carpe Diem Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Wellington, South
Africa
Opaque red/black colour. The nose shows ripe blackcurrant fruit,
leading to a lush palate with taut, herby fruit. A tiny bit too sweet,
but great concentration. Very modern styled. Very good+
(£9.99 Waitrose) 10/02
Diemersfontein Pinotage 2000, Wellington, South Africa
This wine is matured in tanks which have French oak barrel staves
bolted in to them. Very deep purple black. Striking roasted, toasty
lift to the nose: very forward. The palate is herbal and toasty.
It’s very appealing, but it does seem over-oaked, with a toasty,
roasted almost burnt character. Very good (£6.99 Waitrose) 10/02
Fairview Goats du Roam 2000, South Africa
A real hotchpotch blend (33% Pinotage, 22% Shiraz, 13% Cinsault, 13%
Grenache, 5% Gamay, 10% Carignan, 4% Mourvedre), but it works really well.
Brilliant commercial winemaking. Tarry, herby fruit on the nose with a
slightly funky, animal edge. Good concentration on the palate with some
chewy, herby, berry fruit and a savoury, rustic edge. There's a slight
sweetness to the fruit that makes it very accessible. Very good+ (£4.99
Sainsbury, Oddbins) 12/01
Fairview Pinotage 1999, Coastal Region
A sweet herby and savoury wine showing ripe caramel and cheesy notes:
it's a well made commercial interpretation of the Pinotage grape that is
full of interest. Very good 05/01
The Pinotage Company 1999 Pinotage, Coastal Region, South Africa
A stinky, herby old-fashioned style Pinotage with a rustic, cheesy
character. Quite light textured and a little bit volatile, this is bizarre
stuff, but good if you are a fan of the 'traditional' style. I'll pass.
Good+ 04/01
Deetlefs Estate Semillon 1999, WO Breede River
Valley, South Africa
Fresh and tart with cut grass, asparagus and green herbaceous favours. The excessive green
character suggests that the grapes failed to attain full ripeness. If you don't mind this,
it would make a useful food wine. OK. (Tesco £5.49) 8/00
Spice Route Pinotage 1998, Malmesbury, WO Swartland, South Africa
Deep purple coloured: a concentrated wine with a huge, sweet nose of raspberry
jam. On the palate it is savoury, herby and quite complex, with a slightly 'green' edge,
which seems to be a distinctive flavour profile of many of the Spice Route reds. Very
interesting, but not particularly varietally true: a heavy winemaking imprint. (£7.99
Oddbins) 3/00
Fairview Chardonnay 1998, Coastal Region, South Africa
Very attractive, concentrated Chardonnay with plenty of fresh fruit character combined
with the richness of new oak. Buttery and toasty . Bright, attractive and savoury wine
with a full-on flavour. Very good in its genre. (£5.99 Fullers, on sale at £3.99) 3/00
KWV Cathedral Cellars 1995 Cabernet
Sauvignon, Coastal Region, South Africa
Despite the terrible label and the huge size of the KWV operation, this is a
deeply impressive wine at a great price. Opaque red/purple colour. Concentrated stuff,
with pure cassis and a touch of mint on the nose, a leafy herbaceous edge and big tannic
structure on the palate. A powerful, flavour packed Cabernet, the only slight criticism is
the touch of greenness on the palate; otherwise it is a serious, complex wine at a great
price. (Fuller's, £7.99) 12/99
Neetlingshof Weisser Riesling 1997 Noble Late Harvest
Deep amber brown, with an intense, caramelized nose and rich apricot and
marmalade palate. Perhaps a little oxidized, but intense and interesting. 12/99
Nitida Shiraz 1997, Coastal region
Barnyardy, earthy stink, and plenty of rich fruit. Some herby elements, a
moderate tannic structur and good concentration. This is good stuff, but don't expect it
to taste like it comes from the Northern Rhone. 7/99
Swartland Shiraz 1997, Swartland
This is in a more fruit-forward style than other SA shiraz I've encountered. It
has some odd medicinal notes, but also varietally typical smoky bacon fat flavours and
aromas, with lemony acidity. Medium concentration. Good. 7/99
Spice Route 'Long Walk' Sauvignon blanc 1998,
Malmesbury, South Africa
Lovely, fresh Sauvignon with all the aromatics associated with this grape (gooseberry,
eldeflowers, cut green peppers), together with a rich texture and some residual sugar.
Really nicely put together in a modern style. Nicely poised. (£5.99, Tesco) 2/00
Mulderbosch Steen op Hout 1998
Wooded chenin blanc with esteric, clean, technology driven flavours. It is well
put together, only moderately oaked, but is ultimately a forgettable example of what is,
when grown outside the Loire valley, usually a forgettable grape. 7/99
Diemersdal Shiraz 1998, South Arica
Medium bodied with some pepper spice. Herby, earthy nose of soft fruit (mainly
cherries and plums). Light but quite complex, with a warm finish. Not new world in style,
but neither is it French-style. A slight rustic edge, herby and pleasant in a light style.
(£5.99 Tesco) 5/99
Vergelegen Sauvignon blanc 1997, Coastal Region,
South Africa
Crisp, fresh, intense sauvignon with elderflower and herbaceous notes. Assertive
with good concentration, but a slightly bitter finish. Good. (Tesco £6.49) 5/99
Spice Route Sauvignon blanc 1998 (Inaugural vintage)
Spice Route Wine Company
(Charles Back, John Platter, Jabulani Ntshangase, Gyles Webb)
A new-world style Sauvignon blanc backed by some of the leading names in South African
wine, this is quite a hard one to call. It is fresh and grassy, with esteric (boiled
sweets) components and a medium-weight palate. Fresh and modern, it is pretty good, but
this may have more to do with the winery than the vineyard. (£5.99 Tesco) 4/99
Graham Beck 1998 Old Road Pinotage, Coastal Region, South Africa
A spicy, herbal, tannic wine, deep in colour and with plenty of new oak. This is Pinotage
in its modern incarnation, without any of the funk or cheesy feet aromas that are often
associated with the variety. In fact, I find this too modern and too oaky, lacking in real
personality. A very good wine, none the less. 1/01
Neil Ellis Pinotage 1999, Coastal Region, South Africa
Lovely ripe nose with a green, herby, vegetal edge. The palate is full,
concentrated and rich, with some sweet fruit and firm acidity, along with
a minty edge. However, it's slightly spoiled by a pungent green vegetal
note. Firm tannins under the fruit. Good/very good 07/01
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