The wines
of Chateau
Palmer, Margaux: a vertical tasting
Presented by Bernard de Laage (Marketing and Communication
Director) and Thomas Duroux (Manager)
Margaux star Château Palmer needs little introduction. It’s ranked second in Margaux, just a
notch behind Château Margaux itself, although
in the 1855 classification it’s actually a third growth. Despite
this, Palmer is one of the Château people talk about in
discussions about which properties could be elevated to first growth
status, along with the likes of Leoville Les Cases.
Palmer has 52 hectares of vines,
with a larger proportion of Merlot than is usual for a left-bank
estate. Typical make up of the grand vin is equal proportions of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with 5% Petit Verdot, but this changes
with each vintage. [For more information on Palmer, there’s an
excellent website: www.chateau-palmer.com.]
We began this tasting with a look at Alter Ego de
Palmer. ‘Alter Ego is an interesting and important concept for
us’, says Bernard de Laage. ‘As with many growths we produced a
second wine, but since 1998 we have made a second wine plus Alter
Ego’. So it’s not a second wine as such, made from barrels that
fail to make the cut. Rather, in the vineyards they make a decision
about which grapes are growing where and then use different
techniques, such as different extractions, specifically for this wine.
As an example, Alter Ego is fermented at lower temperatures to
preserve fruitiness. No specific blocks are dedicated to Alter Ego or
Palmer: the selection is year by year. This means there is no
difference in yield. In recent years the yield at Palmer has been 50
hl/hectare in 2004 (this is high), 32 hl/ha in 2005 (low) and 36 hl/ha
in 2006. The target yield is 45 hl/ha.
There’s no winemaking recipe here. In general, they
don’t do delestage. They try to do pump-overs early on when
there’s less alcohol (more gentle extraction). They don’t macerate
for a long time. Fermentation typically lasts two weeks for Alter Ego
and three for Palmer.
The Alter Ego flight was poured sighted. All four wines
are fruit driven with nice freshness. My impression was that this is a
consistent wine across vintages, with fresh fruit and a bit of
minerality, made in a savoury style.
Alter Ego de Palmer 2004
’A great year where we were able to select special blocks for
Alter Ego’, says Bernard. Half Cabernet, half Merlot. Ripe, bright
red fruit dominated nose with nice purity and some minerality.
There’s a bit of chocolatey richness. Nice pure fruit on the palate
with good acidity keeping things fresh. Smooth but firm tannins.
90/100
Alter Ego de Palmer 2003
A hot year, and during the growing season the heat made everything
stop. pH and acidity is normal: what is unusual is the aromas, claims
Bernard. ‘When you smell the wine you don’t know where you are,
but the taste is Bordeaux’. Bright fruity nose with a slightly
leathery edge. Quite fresh and forward with a bit of minerality.
There’s some approachable, ripe, open fruit here, which leads to a
grippy, savoury tannic finish. A nice open wine that’s drinking
well. 89/100
Alter Ego de Palmer 2002
A low yielding year because of coulure. The fruit was very
concentrated and they couldn’t make the Alter Ego like they wanted.
Deep coloured. Firm nose of bright dark, blackcurranty fruits with
some classic minerality. Lovely concentration of forward fruit on the
palate backed by smooth tannins and good acidity, together with a bit
of earthiness. Savoury and minerally, with some potential. 89/100
Alter Ego de Palmer 2001
Two-thirds Merlot in this vintage. Nice open blackcurranty nose
with some minerality. The palate shows good concentration of savoury,
minerally fruit with good acidity. Quite fruity. With its savoury,
mineral character it’s a bit on the lean side, but there’s promise
for the future. 88/100
Next up, the Palmer vertical. While Alter Ego
underwhelms a little, Palmer is the real deal. These are stunning
wines. The first four vintages, 2004–2001, were served sighted.
Bernard commented that, ‘a lot of us in Bordeaux considered 2004 as
a great vintage: in the coming years it will be rediscovered.’
Then the final batch of wines were served blind in
pairs, which we soon realized consisted of adjacent vintages. 2004 and
2003; 2000 and 1999; 1983 and 1982; and 1971 and 1970.
Château Palmer 2004 Margaux
47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot: a classic
Palmer blend, harvested 27 September–12 October. Quite smooth with
some chocolatey richness on the nose, and some sweet red fruits. The
palate is bold, rich and concentrated with the ripe, sweet fruit well
supported by firm, smooth, spicy tannic structure. Brilliant acidity,
resulting in a powerful, intense, ripe, yet well balanced wine with a
long future ahead of it. Mineralic, spicy and quite exciting. 95/100
Château Palmer 2003 Margaux
The blend is a bit different: 20% Merlot, 68% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 12% Petit Verdot. Harvested 8–20 September. Forward, exotic,
sweet red and black fruits nose with a gravelly, minerally edge. Sweet
and focused. The palate is open and approachable with nice sweet
fruits, but it clamps down firmlt on the finish with a bit of plummy
bitterness and firm tannins. Not perfect, but still pretty impressive.
93/100
Château Palmer 2002 Margaux
40% Merlot, 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, harvested 26
September–7 October. Smooth, sweet blackcurranty nose with nice
purity and some chocolatey richness. Very expressive and intense. The
palate shows good concentration of pure, supple dark fruits with good
acid, tannins and a minerally finish. A very satisfying, pure wine
that is quite dense and has real appeal. Lots of potential for
development here. 93/100
Château Palmer 2001 Margaux
44% Merlot, 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, harvested
from 26 September–11 October. Deep coloured. Classic nose with some
blackcurrant fruit, a bit of earthiness, and subtle minerality. Still
quite primary. The palate is supple and fruity with a nice, spicy
tannic structure under the smooth black fruits. Finishes fairly
savoury and tannic. Good acid and freshness. More time is called for
here, because this is slightly austere at the moment. 91/100
The blind wines
Château Palmer 2000 Margaux
Deep coloured. Smooth, quite pure nose shows intense red/black
fruits. Perfumed, appealing and quite open. The palate is broad and
concentrated with great intensity of pure, sweet fruit. Great tannic
structure. Youthful but a near-complete wine of great power and good
balance. Thrilling, even. Reckon this is 2000, but my neighbour, a
Bordeaux expert, thinks 1997. 96/100 (the blend this year was 47%
Merlot, 53% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Château Palmer 1999 Margaux
Sweet, tarry, almost fudge-like edge to the fruit on the nose,
which is showing some evolution. Ripe and full with lovely richness.
Opening out beautifully. The palate shows wonderfully pure fruit
that’s developing some earthy, spicy complexity. Intense with
impeccable balance. Lovely stuff. 95/100 (Blend: 46% Merlot, 48%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot)
Château Palmer 1990 Margaux
Sweet, open nose with some evolution and a subtle herbiness.
Perfumed and very soft. Classic, sweet, seamless and earthy. The
palate is open, smooth, complex and evolved with a lovely sweet
earthiness. This is just drinking perfectly now, with weight and
subtlety. Thrilling wine of great precision and poise. 96/100 (Blend:
37% Merlot, 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot)
Château Palmer 1989 Margaux
Delicious sweet, tarry, fudgey nose is quite open, with a smooth
intoxicating perfume and a bit of meatiness. Alluring palate has a
complex blend of fruit with spice, tar, some minerality and a bit of
earthiness. Still quite some tannic structure. A beefy wine, showing
evolution, that is quite savoury in character. 94/100 (Blend: 41%
Merlot, 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot)
Château Palmer 1983 Margaux
Dark, spicy palate is quite earthy and full with some tight red
fruits, lots of earthiness and firm tannic structure. A firm,
substantial wine that is a bit closed at the moment, but which shows
potential for further development, even though it is already clearly
quite old. 93/100 (Blend: 41% Merlot, 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4%
Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot)
Château Palmer 1982 Margaux
Corked
Château Palmer 1971 Margaux
Sweet open nose is evolved but still quite pure, showing fruit.
Beautifully perfumed. The palate is exciting and expressive with high
acid and a lovely freshness, along with earthy, spicy complexity.
Fresh, pure and vibrant despite the evident age. Earthy and spicy,
too. A really expressive, delicious wine that’s drinking well now,
with good acidity the dominant feature. 95/100
Château Palmer 1970 Margaux
Sweet fudgey edge to the deliciously evolved earthy nose. Very
full, complex and earthy—thought provoking. The palate is bright and
fresh, with good acid and a savoury, quite tannic structure. Bold. A
bit square and angular, but otherwise delicious and fresh. 93/100
see
also: Bordeaux wines
Wines tasted 10/06
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