Egon Müller Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1999 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Greenish glint to the yellow colour. Stunning nose of complex minerally lemon and peach fruit. The palate is luscious, quite rich and rather sweet. It is smooth but with enough acidity to provide focus. Fatter than you might expect from a Kabinett, this is a rich, complex, sweet Riesling. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£14.85 Haynes, Hanson & Clark) 09/04

JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 1994 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Aromatic nose is minerally and petrolly. The palate has a lovely balance between the sweet lemony, spicy flavours and the focused minerality. It’s drinking really well now but will no doubt keep on going for a long time yet. Pronounced acidity. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£13.99 Waitrose) 05/04

JJ Christoffel Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese** 1999 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Lovely focused wine with good acidity. Very rich. Nice texture and some sweetness balanced by complex minerality. Very good/excellent 94/100 03/04

Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Spätlese 2001 Nahe, Germany
Forward, sweet melony nose with some fine lemony notes. The palate is rich and intense but still quite elegant with sweet melony fruit and good acidity. This needs some time to put on complexity, but it’s more like an Auslese in weight. Very good/excellent 92/100 08/04

Hermann Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2002 Nahe, Germany
Very striking, pure lemon and mineral nose with some floral perfumed notes. The palate is rich and broad with high residual sugar and also high acidity holding the melony, lemony fruit in fusion. Very good/excellent (£21.95 Berry Bros) 10/03

Markus Molitor Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1996 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
I was a bit underwhelmed by this wine from Molitor, a highly rated producer. It has a bright lifted apple and melon nose with a palate that shows lots of fruit but too-high acidity. Very good 82/100 (£14.95 Berry Bros) 10/03

Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2001 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Second of a six pack I bought a year ago, I’m going to leave the remaining four for a few years after tasting this. Melon, lemon and spice notes on the rich nose leads to a rich textured palate with ripe melon fruit and a distinct spiciness. Medium sweet and approachable now, this really needs to put some complexity on. Very good+ 89/100 12/03

JL Wolf Pinot Gris 2001 Pfalz, Germany
The Pfalz is a southern German region that makes drier, fuller bodied whites than the Mosel. This is a rich, boldly flavoured white with notes of roast nuts and honey. Very good 84/100 (£4.99 Sainsbury) 11/03

Langenbach Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Auslese Cabinet(sp) 1949 Rheingau, Germany
It’s not every day you try a German Riesling from the 1940s. This is an orange colour, with a nose of fresh apricot and marmalade with some waxy notes. The palate is rounded and ripe with some apricot fruit. It changes in the glass wuite quickly, losing its character as it fades. It’s hard to be totally objective about an old wine like this. Very good/excellent 91/100 09/03

Weingut Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett 2001 Mosel Saar Ruwer
Attractive modernist label design. Appealing pure nose is quite minerally with integrated, classy lime and grapefruit edge, with some honeyed sweetness. The palate is delicate but still rich textured, with some residual sugar apparent. Acidity provides nice balance. Good concentration. Slightly spritzy from the carbon dioxide. Very good+ 08/02

Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2001, Mosel Saar Ruwer
The restrained, smoky nose is quite minerally and spicy, but initially shows a blast of sulfur. The palate is richly textured and quite mineralic, with zingy acidity and lots of spicy character. There’s a little sweetness, which adds roundness and smoothness to the texture. A concentrated, rich wine but still very youthful, so give it a few years to start to perform properly. Very good/excellent (£7.49 Bentalls; Noel Young have it for more) 09/02

Peter Jakob Kühn Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett 2000, Rheingau, Germany
Honeyed, lemony nose is ripe, expressive and full. The rich-textured palate is quite sweet and full with tropical fruit and melon notes. Very good/excellent (£9.99 Waitrose) 10/02  

Michael der Pfarrkirche Riesling Bernkastler Lay Auslese 1976, Mosel, Germany
Quite a honeyed, slightly spicy nose. Rich, semi-sweet and honeyed on the palate. Some complexity but not as much as you’d expect from 25 years bottle age. Mature and drinking nicely now. Very good 05/02

Robert Weil Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese 2001, Rheingau, Germany
Lifted apple and lemon fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and full with a lemony twist to the sweet, fat textured apple and pear palate. Very expressive. Very good/excellent (£24 Waitrose) 10/02  

Dr Hermann Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1995 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Very forward, limey, appley nose with some honeyed notes and a touch of spice. Quite a rich, sweet palate with lovely fruity character, some melon-like richness and good acid. Appealing stuff. Very good/excellent (Majestic) 10/02

Willi Haag Estate Riesling QbA 1999, Mosel, Germany
From a small 5 ha estate run by Inge Haag and her son Markus. Attractive perfumed floral nose with a bright lemony lift. Deliciously rich balanced palate with nice balance and some tropical fruit/melon character. Impressive and pure. Very good+ (£6.95 Berry Bros) 04/02

JJ Prüm Bernkastler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 1999, Mosel, Germany
One of the leading Mosel estates, established in 1911 and since 1969 run by Manfred Prüm. 33.5 ha of vines are planted on steeply sloping schist soils. Pronounced rich mineralic high-acid nose is quite striking with a strong almost meaty savoury edge. Concentrated palate is rich, spicy and mineralic. Not particularly sweet but very rich. Quite a serious wine. Very good/excellent (£13.45 Berry Bros) 04/02

Domedechant Werner’schen Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Spätlese 1999, Rheingau, Germany
A classy, rich style of Riesling. Very rich tropical fruit and pear nose with a sweet honeyed edge. Massively concentrated tropical fruit palate with melon and spice notes. Quite sweet but the good acidity provides balance. Brilliant stuff. Very good/excellent (£12.95 Berry Bros) 04/02

Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese 1996, Rheinpfalz, Germany
One of the leading Pfalz estates, with 55 ha of vines. Very rich, slightly cabbagey sweet honeyed fruit on the nose. Rich textured, concentrated fruity palate: very sweet but with very high acidity. Unusual style, and perhaps a little disjointed. Very good (£13.95 Berry Bros) 04/02

Von Metternich-Winneburgische Schloss Johannisberger Riesling 1999 Qualitätswein, Rheingau
AP No. 26 026 022 00. The sweet, grapey nose is quite delicate with some citrussy notes. The palate is crisp and fresh, with a dry finish and good acidity. Nicely mineralic, but needs some time in the glass to open out a bit. Very good 06/01

Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 1994, Nahe
AP no. 7753 01 011 95. Rich mature Riesling nose with petrol character and some citrussy elements. Full flavoured with good acidity, and showing its age. Nice stuff. Very good+ (Justerini & Brooks £11) 07/01

Christoffel Berres Urziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1992, Mosel
A pale yellow colour, this has a sweet limey mineralic nose. The palate shows flavours of peach, apple and honey; it’s rich textures and sweet, with appropriate acidity. A pleasant, rounded wine. Very good+ (Majestic) 06/01

Fritz Haag Riesling 1996, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
AP no. 0502 97. A yellow gold colour, this emerges after a while in the glass to show an intense, minerally nose of citrus and honey. The palate is really nicely poised: it’s mineralic and a tiny bit spicy with good length and acidity. There are also some grapefruit notes. Superb for a qualitätswein, and great value. Very good/excellent (Justerini & Brooks £6.95) 07/01

Dr Hermann Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1994, Mosel saar Ruwer
AP no 2602 145 695 Where else would you get seven year old Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese for a fiver but Majestic? This is a good one, despite the low price. Lovely smoky honey-tinged nose leads to a rich palate with bracing acidity, some appley notes and a touch of spice. Expressive and tasty, this doesn’t taste overly sweet, although there’s clearly quite a bit of residual sugar here. Very good+ (£4.99 Majestic) 08/01

Michael Schäfer Riesling Auslese Burg-Layer-Rothenberg 1992, Nahe, Germany
AP no. 7763 076 11 93. Very unusual nose: petrolly, waxy and limey notes intermingle with a slight chemical edge. Weighty palate with thick-textured melon and tropical fruit nuts, a limey kick on the finish and some sweetness. A bit odd but interesting. Good/very good (£5.99 Majestic) 01/01

Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 1998, Mosel Saar Ruwer
AP no. 2 602055 00799 (Tasted blind, note as written) Lovely sweet limey and spicy nose. Palate is delicate and beautifully poised, with good acidity, a dry finish and a touch of minerality. There's some ripe, spicy appley fruit here; it's quite attractive and youthful, clearly a Mosel Riesling. Very good/excellent 08/01

Burg-Leyer Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 1991, Nahe, Germany
Lots of everything here, but spoiled by a harsh finish. Striking nose shows waxy, tropical fruit notes with smoky, petrolly overtones. Limey, high-acid palate is a bit crude. Good/very good (£3.99 Majestic) 10/01

Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium Neumagener Rosengärtchen Riesling Kabinett 1994, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Intense, high acid, limey nose leads to a full-on palate with some sweetness but tongue-curling acidity. Impressive intensity but out of balance. Good (£4.99 Majestic) 10/01

Dr Hermann Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese 1998, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Ap No. 2 602 145 5 99; 7.5% alcohol. Expressive nose shows lime, spice and a touch of melon-like richness. Good residual sugar gives nice texture on the rich palate. In balance, and worth tucking a few of these away to age? At this price it would be rude not to. Very good+ (£4.99 Majestic) 10/01

Dr Hermann Urziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 1998, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Ap No. 2 602 145 3 99; 7.5% alcohol. Textbook stuff at a giveaway price. Classic lime, honey and spice nose leading to a rich, broad, rounded palate with good balance and a sweet finish. Very good+ (£4.99 Majestic) 10/01

Dr Hermann Urziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1996, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
AP No 2 602 145 897; 8% alcohol. Incredible value for money: for the price of an industrial Chardonnay you get a serious expression of Riesling from a leading Mosel vineyard site. The complex, beautifully evolved nose shows notes of lime, honey and minerals. The palate is quite sweet, but with lovely balancing acidity. A full textured sweet wine that's perfect for sipping on its own. Very good/excellent (£5.99 Majestic Majestic) 10/01 

Burg-Layer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 1992, Nahe, Germany
Ap No. 7 763 076 11 93; 8% alcohol. A yellow/gold colour. Evolved, slightly petrolly, honeyed nose showing tropical fruit, mango and a touch of lime. Very rich on the palate with a sweet finish. Delicious stuff, and in balance still. Very good+ (£5.99 Majestic) 10/01

Lergenmüller Chardonnay Spätlese 1997, Pfalz, Germany
When this nicely packaged German Chardonnay showed up in Waitrose, my curiosity was aroused. It turned out to be a fairly complex, bond dry, savoury wine with some real interest, and a very different drink to your average new world chard. A full yellow/gold colour, this has spice and honey on the nose with some toasty, bready notes. The palate is broad and savoury with high acid and a spicy finish. There are also honey and nutty elements, a tinge of bitterness, and noticeable oak influence from barrique fermentation and ageing. Very good (£6.99 Waitrose) 05/01

Schloss Reinhartshausener 1971 Hattenheimer Hassel Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau, Germany
(AP No 32071 006 72) Lovely complex old Spätlese that is drinking perfectly now. Light gold in colour, the nose shows typical aged Riesling character of concentrated lime and what's often described as kerosene. The palate is surprisingly fresh for a 30 year old wine and shows intense, rich character and a bit of spicy botrytis. The finish is relatively dry. Excellent

Kendermans Riesling Spätlese 1998, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A step up from sugar-sweet Liebfraumilch, but still a bit mass-produced; at least this is a genuine Riesling. Nose of honey, apples and lemons, and a rich, appley, honeyed palate with fairly low acidity and some sweetness. Rounded and pleasant, but not too complex. Good/very good (Sainsbury £4.99) 05/01

Bassermann Jordan Riesling Eiswein Forster Ungeheuer 1996, Pfalz
Eiswein is made from grapes that have been left on the vine until winter night-time temperatures drop well below freezing. Then, in the early hours of the morning the frozen grapes, not affected by botrytis, are picked and crushed, resulting in a super sweet must that is then fermented. They're always expensive, but not always worth the money. This one is, though. Deeply coloured, with an incredibly rich, sweet nose of toasty caramel, honey, lime and some spiciness. It's very complex, with a slight cabbagey edge. The palate is syrupy sweet with a spicy edge and hugely rich texture. Good acidity provide balance. Sensational stuff. Excellent 4/01

Schloss Saarstein Serriger Riesling Kabinett 1999, Mosel Saar Ruwer
9% alcohol. A typical Saar style, steely and dry. This pale coloured wine has a pronounced mineralic nose, with citrus and floral notes. The palate is powerful and intense, with spicy complexity and good balance. It finishes with a touch of honey, and is quite dry, but with enough residual sugar to counter the considerable acidity. Very good/excellent (price guide: Berry Bros have the 1995 for £8.50) 4/01

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1998, Mosel Saar Ruwer
8.5% alcohol. From the Mosel, showing some richness and ripe fruit. The slightly smoky, mineral nose is currently a little closed. The palate is rich and rounded, with some spiciness, a lively acidic kick and a touch of sweetness on the finish. Very good 4/01

Lingenfelder Grosskarlbacher Osterberg Riesling Spätlese 1999, Pfalz
12% alcohol. Distinctive stuff that veers in the direction of new world Riesling in style. Rich, sweet nose shows exotic tropical fruit and citrus notes, with a smoky edge and a mineral streak. The dry palate has bold flavours and good acidity, with more of those mineral notes. Very good/excellent 4/01

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Riesling Auslese 1997, Mosel Saar Ruwer
From leading Ruwer estate Karthäuserhof, this wine has 9.5% alcohol. The nose is lively and full, with citrus notes dominating. The palate explodes with spicy citrus fruit, some sweet honey notes and high balancing acidity. Lovely stuff. Very good/excellent 4/01

Jordan & Jordan 1996 Schazhofberger Riesling Trocken, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Qualitätswein
Made by Peter Jordan, before he retired, this is a skinhead of a wine, with bags of flavour but vicious acidity. It shows a lovely, limey/citrus nose with a touch of honey and a slight urine-like edge. On the palate it is powerful and citrussy with piercing acidity. It’s extremely youthful and I suspect this will age beautifully (but slowly) if you have the patience to leave it. Very good/excellent (if you like the style) 1/01

Riechsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Auslese ‘Long gold capsule’ Piesporter Goldtropfchen 1989 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Delicious stuff. A spicy, appley nose is followed up by a rich, full palate with appley, honeyed fruit, plenty of spice and a nice mineralic, citrussy edge. Age has softened the texture and there is some sweetness (it’s medium-sweet); the overall impression is one of great balance. Excellent 1/01

Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 1986 Mosel Saar Ruwer
(Ap No 2 576 162 03 87) Pre-Ernst Loosen, this mature wine is a lovely, laid back Riesling. A fresh yellow colour, it has an appealing nose of honey, minerals and petrol, with a bit of lemon juice. It shows nice balance on the palate with moderate acidity, honey and apples, and a touch of sweetness. Very good 2/01

Christoffel-Berres 1994 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Deliciously fruity Riesling with a complex, rounded palate displaying notes of apples, lemons and pears. Nice acidity and great balance for the price; there's a bit of sweetness on the finish, but this helps. Very good+ (4.99 Majestic) 1/01

J. L. Wolf Pinot Gris 1999, Pfalz, Germany
From Ernst Loosen's 'other' estate in the Pfalz, this shows a neutral nose with a hint of spice. On the palate it is lively, fresh and dry. Overall, though, I find it lacking a great deal of character, which is a shame. OK/good (Adnams £6.50) 11/00

Trier Augenscheiner Riesling Kabinett, Jacobus 1990
How do Majestic do it? A stunning, mature Riesling at a bargain price. Quite lovely evolved citrus nose; bold and full. Fierce stuff on the palate, with piercing acidity and dry finish. Very good+ (Majestic £3.99) 10/00

Bernkastler Badstude Riesling Kabinett, Jacobus 1990
Another great mature Riesling at a bargain price. Ripe, rounded nose of apples and citrus fruit, with an appley palate and piercing acidity. Very good+ (Majestic £3.99) 10/00

Sanctus Jacobus 1990 Bernkastler Badstube Riesling Kabinett, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
A startling wine on a couple of counts. First, how do Majestic manage to sell a ten year old wine for less than £4? Second, the taste. On the nose it shows intense citrus character, with honey and apples. On the palate, there's more of the citrus fruit, coupled with nice complexity but beware the almost brutal, tooth-eroding acidity. Fresh and full flavoured, this shows how well even inexpensive German Rieslings can age. Some will hate it; others will love it. Very good (£3.99 Majestic) 1/01

Kendermans Vineyard Selection Pinot Grigio 1998, Qualitätswein, Pfalz, Germany
Bright, fresh and zesty; clean and dry with lemony fruit and high acidity. Not a great deal of varietal character, but a nice glugger, none the less. Noticeably German in style. (Sainsbury £3.99) 9/00

Lingenfelder Riesling 1998 (Bird label), Qualitätswein, Pfalz
Fruity and fresh with lively citrus flavours and a slightly honeyed edge. Bold wine; great value. Very good. (£4.99 Oddbins) 10/00