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2002 Bordeaux: a snapshot of the vintage

So how has the 2002 vintage in Bordeaux turned out? The answer is much better than people were predicting in last July and August, when two months of dreadful weather looked set to scupper hopes of a decent year. Then came brilliantly warm sunny weather in September, just when it was most needed. Left bank Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were apparently very good indeed, with the earlier ripening Merlot doing a little less well. Courtesy of UK merchant Charles Taylor Wines/Montrachet Wine Merchants (same company trading under two different names for trade and private customers) I had the chance to try 40 wines from this vintage at a range of price points, providing a snapshot of the year.

Caveat: these were all cask samples. They’re supposed to be the final blend of each wine, but there’s no guaranteeing that Châteaux didn’t select, say, four of their best barrels for blending a rather special sample. And while these should have been freshly bottled, some may be as much as 4 weeks old: they’ll show slightly differently to a freshly bottled sample. Finally, it’s hard to assess wines so early on in their life. Some might be engineered by winemaking tricks to show particularly well at this stage. I’ve tried to concentrate on the palate in my assessments: while the nose will show something, for very young wines the quality of the palate is paramount – how structured is it? Is it harmonious? How are the tannins? Does it finish well? Don’t take the scores too seriously…   

Prices indicated are those from Charles Taylor/Montrachet and are ex duty and VAT. Contact details: Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants, 59 Kennington Road, Waterloo, London SE1 7PZ (Telephone 020 7928 1990 Fax 020 7928 3415)

Another useful source of ratings of Bordeaux en primeur 2002 is Decanter's website (www.decanter.com).

Points /100

Wine

Tasting note

Cost in bond per dozen

93

Château Léoville Barton 2eme Cru Classé Saint-Julien 2002

Very deep colour. Elegant, taut black fruits with subtle, tarry, roasted influence and a liquoricey depth. Firm, ripe palate is concentrated and intense with good structure and pure, ripe fruit.

£220

91

Château Angludet Margaux 2002

Very deep red purple colour. Lovely elegance to the fruity, multilayered liquorice-edged nose. The palate shows elegant fruit with firm tannins and some structure. Really nice, and a great bargain.

£112

90

Château Quinault d’Enclos Saint Emilion Grand Cru

Rich, ripe nose of roast coffee, spice and chocolatey black fruits. Palate is structured, spicy and harmonious with vivid fruit and great concentration.

£265

 90

Château Poujeaux Moulis-en-Médoc 2002

Really appealing elegant liquoricey, herby, intense fruit on the nose. Very pure. Nicely weighted structured palate with a spicy edge and some woodiness. Quite elegant.

£120

 90

Château Lascombes 2eme Cru Classé Margaux

Very rich, ripe, toasty, roast coffee, tarry nose, displaying sweet fruit. Appealing rich, vividly fruited palate with spicy oak. New modern style.

£190 (estimate)

89

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2002

Vivid deep purple/black. Lovely forward black fruit and spice nose. The palate displays intense, vivid fruit. Spicy and firm with nice structure and some elegance. 

£98 (estimate)

89 

Château Faugères Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2002

Intense colour. Lovely sweet ripe raspberry and black fruits nose. Good concentration on the palate with some tannic structure underneath the vivid fruit. Appealing. Very good+

£130 (estimate)

89

Château Moulin-Riche Saint Julien 2002

Lovely vivid black fruits on the nose with a spicy, woody edge. Classy concentrated palate shows intense fruit together with firm tannins and woodiness.

£95

89

Château Kirwan 3eme Cru Classé Margaux 2002

Ripe fruity nose with some sweet caramel notes. Quite lush, berry fruit palate with some firm tannic structure.

£130

89

Château Léoville Poyferré 2eme Cru Classé 2002

Very deep coloured. A little closed on the nose. Good intensity of firm, spicy woody fruit on the palate. Full, intense and very structured.

£190 (estimate)

88

Heritage de Thieuley Bordeaux Supérieur 2002

Ripe, sweet, spicy nose with herby, chocolatey richness. Firm spicy palate is structured and appealing.

£105

88 

Château Belgrave 5eme Cru Classé Haut-Médoc 2002

Very deep colour. Rich ripe fruits on the nose with some tarry complexity. The palate shows good concentration of juicy fruit, firm tannins and some woodiness.  

£100

88 

Château La Tour Carnet 4eme Cru Classé Haut-Médoc 2002

Nice depth of roast coffee-edged tarry fruit on the nose. The palate is ripe and full with minerally, spicy fruit. Good intensity here.

£112

88 

Château Dauzac 5eme Cru Classé Margaux 2002

Intense colour. Tight, spicy, firm berry fruit nose has a roast coffee edge. Good concentration of rich spicy fruit on the palate. Tight.

£130

88 

Château de Fieuzal Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan 2002

Open, fruity, slightly caramelly nose. Palate shows some elegance. Midweight with good structure. 

£158

88 

Château Langoa Barton 3eme Cru Classé Saint Julien 2002

Firm, classy intense fruit on the nose. Nicely structured concentrated berry fruit palate with a mineral edge. Quite firm.

£165

88 

Château Haut Bailly Cru Classé Pessac Léognan 2002

Rich nose with berry and black fruits, and a spicy herby edge. Elegant palate with firm tannins. Good intensity and nice acidity.

£205

87

Château Marsau Côtes de Francs 2002

Quite rich, slightly caramelly edge to the sweet nose. Palate is elegant with good concentration. Currently showing some woodiness.

£68

87

Lafleur de Quinault Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2002

Taut, spicy red fruits on the nose. Vividly fruited, firm, structured palate with a spicy finish.

£120 (estimate)

87

Château La Tour de Pin Figeac Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2002

Elegant spicy berry fruit nose. Palate shows minerally berry fruits, good acidity and some spicy woodiness.

£145

87

Château Lacombe Noaillac Médoc 2002

Lovely minerally edge to the nose. Pure, juicy ripe fruit on the palate with a touch of minerality. Great value.

£44

87

 

Château Le Crock Saint Estèphe 2002

Firm, closed spicy nose. Good concentration on the palate which is very structured, minerally, tannic and austere. Potential here but very tough now.

£85 (estimate)

87

Château Dufort-Vivens 2eme Cru Classé Margaux 2002

Firm, spicy berry fruit; structured and quite woody.

£128

86

Clos Ste Anne 1eres Côtes de Bordeaux 2002

Juicy edged spicy berry and black fruits, with some woodiness. Fruity, structured and vibrant

£60 (estimate)

86

Lafleur de Laussac Côtes de Castillon 2002

Lifted, spicy, mineralic edge to the chalky black fruits nose. Structured, savoury, spicy palate.

£60 (estimate)

86

Château Ste Colombe Côtes de Castillon 2002

Quite perfumed spicy berry fruit nose. Chewy, fruity palate with spicy tannins.

£62 (estimate)

86

Château Thieuley Réserve Courselle Bordeaux Supérieur 2002

Tarry, spicy edge to the vividly fruited nose. Savoury palate with spicy, woody, structured edge. 

£66

86

Clos Beauregard Pomerol 2002

Perfumed, spicy, earthy edge to the fruity nose. Midweight spicy palate with a subtle leafy edge. Some elegance; perhaps lacks intensity

£120 (estimate)

86

Clos Toulifaut Pomerol 2002

Forward, fruity, spicy nose with a herb-tinged edge. Savoury, spicy palate is quite elegant. Some woodiness.

£120 (estimate)

86 

Vieux Château Gaubert Rouge Graves 2002

Intense, caramelly, blackcurrant nose. Savoury, medicinal tinged palate. Tight.

£69

86

Château Tour de Haut Moulin Haut-Médoc 2002

Deep coloured. Taut, minerally, structured and spicy with good acidity. Backward.

£75 (estimate)

86

Château Charmail, Haut-Médoc 2002

Very deep colour. Closed on the nose. The palate is midweight, firmly structured and youthful.

£89

86

Château La Fleur Milon, Pauillac 2002

Taut nose with some spiciness. Firm, structured and spicy palate with good acid. Tight and tannic.

£89

85

Château Cap de Faugères Côtes de Castillon 2002

Liquoricey sweetness to the caramel-edged nose. Juicily fruited palate. Appealing.

£64 (estimate)

85

Château Thieuley Bordeaux Rouge 2002

Bright, vivid blackcurrant fruit. Pure and clean with good concentration.

£40

85

Château Teyssier Montagne St Emilion 2002

Juicy berry and black fruits. Pure fruit with some spicy woodiness on palate.

£58

85

Château Patache d’Aux Médoc 2002

Very appealing spicy edge to the pure fruit on the nose. Structured and firm – tending to austere – on the palate.

£55

85

Château Fourcas- Dupré Listrac-Médoc 2002

Tarry, roasted edge to the fruity nose. Firm, spicy, structured palate with savoury character and firm tannins.

£60 (estimate)

84

La Fleur Figeac Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2002

Structured, ripe and spicy. Savoury and firm on the palate. Chewy.

£78

84

Château de Laussac Côtes de Castillon 2002

Bright raspberryish fruit on the nose leads to a firm, savoury palate that is currently quite woody

£95 (estimate)

84

Château Liversan Haut Médoc 2002

Primary juicy fruit with firm tannins and minerality.

£55

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