The
wines of Torbreck, Barossa Valley, South Australia
Torbreck Vintners,
Roennfeldt Road, Marananga, Barossa Valley, PO Box 583, Tanunda SA
5352
Phone: (08) 8562 4155 Fax: (08) 8562 4195
Website: http://www.torbreck.com
Editor's
note: see
a more recent review of Torbreck's wines, based on a visit in
September 2004, here
Torbreck is one of the new-style cult ‘boutique’ wineries
in the Barossa. It was founded by Dave Powell in 1994, with the first
wines made in 1995. Powell’s philosophy has been to secure grapes
from small parcels of old-vine Barossa vineyards, and then to make
hand-crafted wines in a traditional style that reflect their Barossa
origins. Yields are invariably low, and the resulting wines are deeply
impressive. However, prices have long since left the plane of reality,
driven upwards by the collectable nature of these wines and the fact
that demand has massively outstripped supply. I liked them very much,
though I’m not sure they’re all good value for money. Rather
perversely, I preferred the Juveniles to some of its more expensive
siblings, and at about £11 a pop this one is definitely worth a try.
Juveniles 2001
I was bowled over by this
unoaked blend of Grenache (60%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Shiraz (20%). Lovely
meaty savoury nose with an attractive animal-like complexity and some
earthy notes. Delicious soft fruit on the palate but with an
intriguing herby/earthy edge. Although this is one of Torbreck’s
cheaper offerings, it’s a brilliant wine: expressive and reminiscent
of a very good, ripe Crozes Hermitage. Excellent
The Steading 2000
A blend of
old vine Grenache, Mourvèdre and Shiraz from some of our oldest
vineyards. Single vineyard components are fermented and matured
separately. Mid-coloured. Delicious
spicy complexity to the nose, which is really attractive. There’s a
good concentration of spicy, savoury fruit on the palate. Brilliant
balance here and plenty of complexity. Very good/excellent
Defendant 2000
This is a
Shiraz-based wine from a single vineyard planted with cuttings off the
old RunRig vineyards (RunRig is Powell’s top wine, not tasted here).
The Shiraz is crushed straight on top of the Viognier from the same
vineyard, which had been lightly pressed for RunRig, and the wine is
aged for 18 months in barrels that had been previously used for RunRig.
Ultra-low yields of 16hl/ha; tiny quantities made. Very
deep coloured. Sensational spicy, liqouricey, herby nose: very full
and complex. The palate is lush but still balanced, showing a sweet
herby edge and a good concentration of spicy fruit. Great
concentration and good potential here. Excellent
The Factor 1999
100%
Shiraz from low-yielding, unirrigated old-vine vineyards, matured in
predominantly old French oak barriques for thirty months. Lots of sweet fruit evident on the
nose, which has a liqouricey, spicy edge. Great concentration, but not
quite as balanced as the other wines with some awkward alcohol poking
through. Meant for ageing. Very good+
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wines tasted
January 2002
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