Editor's note: for a more recent (December 2004) review of
Rainer Lingenfelder's wines, see here
The Pfalz is Germany's warmest wine region, and although it makes a
lot of very undistinguished wine (about half the total production of
Liebfraumilch comes from here), there are a few estates who really
excel. Lingenfelder, a family owned 15 ha estate, is one of these.
Rainer Lingenfelder, who explained these wines to me, is an
entertaining chap who speaks very good English and comes across as an
intelligent and slightly eccentric wine producer, committed to
achieving the best quality. Overall, I
found the three Rieslings full of interest and complexity: they are
fuller bodied than most of their Mosel counterparts, with higher
alcohol and a pronounced citrus fruit character, although they still
retain a lovely delicacy. Those unfamiliar with German reds will find
the two examples here surprisingly full bodied. They are both very
good wines. But the star of the show was the sparkling Satyr, which
really is an unusual beast: an experimental wine that I hope will see
a commercial release soon.
Facts for the anorak
15 ha estate, with four vineyard sites: Freinsheimer Goldberg
(South-facing slope, partly terraced, very light sand soil);
Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel (South facing slope, sandy soil partly
gravel); Grosskarlbacher Osterberg (slight slope, loess, sandy
subsoil); and Grosskarlbacher Burgweg (sandy calcareous soil over
limestone rock). Grape varieties grown: 40% Riesling, 20%
Spätburgunder, 10% Scheurebe, 10% Muller Thurgau, 8% Dornfelder, 5%
Sylvaner, 5% Kerner and 2% Portugeiser. Average production is 13 000
cases.
The wines
1999 Bird Label Riesling, Pfalz
Made specifically for the UK and US markets, the bird label
Riesling has been a great success. First made in the 1998 vintage,
Rainer Lingenfelder's intention was to produce a serious wine in a
friendly, easy-to-understand package, targeted at non-German-wine
buffs. It is a blend of Kabinett and Spätlese wines, with some estate
grapes but mostly fruit bought from growers in the neighbourhood, and
sells for £4.99 at Oddbins. The nice, open citrussy nose has some
honey and apple notes. There's a lovely fruity character on the
palate, with some sweetness on the finish. Very good, and an
accessible introduction to good German Riesling in the Pfalz style.
1999 Riesling Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Pflaz
The nice lemony, herby, honeyed nose has a delicate
character to it. The palate is medium dry with citrus and apples
dominating, good acidity and quite a light, delicate texture. Very
good+
1999 Riesling Spätlese Grosskarlbacher Osterberg, Pfalz
Delicate and aromatic on the nose with lemon, spice and mineral
notes. There's a nice herby, waxy character to the palate, with lemon
and grapefruit flavours. Finishes with some residual sugar and high
acidity. Quite a light wine, but with good concentration at the same
time. Very good/excellent
1998 Onyx (barrique-aged Dornfelder from the Osterberg
vineyard in Grosskarlbach; a Qualitatswein)
Apparently 1998 was a leaner year, and this Dornfelder was aged for 12
months in barriques, 50% of which were new. Bright purple/pink colour
(striking and youthful) with a slightly shy nose showing some sweet
strawberry and cherry fruit. The palate displays pungent cherry fruit
with a nice sourness from the acidity and soft spicy notes from the
oak. Full but savoury. Very good
1999 Ganymed Spätburgunder
(cask sample)
A premium Pinot Noir named after the sommelier to the Gods, this
has an unusual label with a cartoon of Ganymed and Bacchus on it. It
comes from the Grosskarlbach Burgweg vineyard, but this isn't on the
label because the wine is classified as a humble Tafelwein. 1999 was a
ripe year and this wine is unchaptalised, weighing in at 13.5%
alcohol. A bright red purple colour, the nose is ripe with pronounced
sour cherry and herb notes. The full, ripe, concentrated palate has
savoury berry fruit backed up with spicy oak. Quite tight at the
moment (as you might expect for a cask sample), there's plenty going
on here and it may develop in interesting ways. Good acidity. Very
good+, possibly better
Satyr
This is Rainer's experimental sparkling wine, which he reckons is
unique because at no point is any sugar added, unlike Champagne. He
took a 1994 Riesling Kabinett as his base wine, and then added yeast
and some freshly pressed Riesling juice in 1995. This was left in the
bottle for five years, and he used 2000 juice as the dosage. The
result? It's a fizz with a fine mousse and a heady nose of citrus
fruits and apples, with a touch of honey. The palate is very lively,
with high acidity and lovely pure mineral and fruit flavours. It
finishes with a touch of sweetness. Noticeably Riesling and quite
different to Champagne, this hasn't yet been released commercially,
but I really like it. Very good/excellent