|
Reyneke
Biodynamic producer now making some of South Africa's best wines,
Stellenbosch revisited part 3
Johan
Reyneke
Reyneke was one of my best experiences in
Stellenbosch – and this was on a trip filled with good visits.
I’d read quite a bit about Johan Reyneke and tasted some of the
wines before, but I’d never met him, so there was some
anticipation.
The Reyneke estate is famous for being
South Africa’s only certified biodynamic wine farm. Sometimes,
though, the attention that this brings can sometimes take people’s
focus off the wines themselves. While I’m very interested in
biodynamics, I didn’t want this way of farming to be the story of
the visit. I wanted to understand the vineyard, the people behind
the wines, and of course the wines themselves.
Reyneke is part of the Vinimark group,
and winemaking is overseen by Rudiger Gretschel. ‘A good
fermentation and a clean malolactic fermentation are crucial to
making good wine,’ says Rudiger. He
uses only natural fermentations, with no enzymes, but does add some
vitamins/nutrients to help the yeasts. The fermentations all take
place in older casks.
Rudiger
Gretschel
With his natural ferments, Rudiger says
that he doesn’t just sit still, but actively works to make sure
that the right yeasts carry out the fermentation. ‘I keep
everything reductive, which means that you don’t get Kloeckera,
which makes the fermentation start with acetone,’ he says. ‘Candida
does this too. The problem is that they chow away most of your must
nutrients, so for the ferment we work reductively and hope that we
get a clean start with Saccharomyces
cerevisiae.’
‘Fermentation dynamics are very
important,’ he adds. ‘If you have a good ferment you are 80%
there. That’s why I have started working with vitamins and
nutrients, such as magnesium.’
The impression I had here is of an
authentic producer, beginning to make some really compelling wines.
There’s a sense of energy at Reyneke, and this is now being
transmitted to the wines.
‘By changing the soil life and
structure we are starting to change the grape composition,’ says
Rudiger. ‘It is something South Africans should be looking into
more, rather than mean temperatures.’
THE
WINES
Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Stellenbosch, South Africa
This spent 6 months in the cask, and then the lees started to
turn, so it was taken out of the cask and bottled shortly after. 12%
alcohol, 6 g acid, partial malolactic. Taut and focused with lovely
fresh citrus, pear and apple notes, as well as some complex herby
characters. Textured, mineral and stylish. 91/100
Reyneke Chenin Blanc 2010 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
‘I love the Chenin thing in South Africa at the moment,’
says Rudiger Gretschel. ‘Our take is a bit more traditional than
some.’ Wonderful fresh apple and pear character with good acidity.
Crisp, with nice appley character. So distinctive. A bit of white
peach, too. Restraint and power here. 93/100
Reyneke Reserve White 2010
Stellenbosch, South Africa
This is a varietal Sauvignon Blanc, which spends 18 months in
oak, 80% of which is new. Taut, mineral and expressive nose. The
palate has high acidity and minerals, with lovely precision and
intensity. There’s a hint of matchstick alongside the grapefruit
and tangerine fruit. Some savouriness, too. 94/100
Reyneke Reserve White 2009
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Some richer, nutty, toasty notes here but it is still
super-fresh and mineral. Tingly, lively. Brilliantly mineral and
complex with some richness but also vibrancy and warm oak and
matchstick characters. Mandarin, tangerine and grapefruit flavours.
Will age beautifully. 94/100
Reyneke Syrah 2010 Stellenbosch, South
Africa
First release of Syrah: this used to end up in the Cornerstone.
Made with a combination of submerged cap and whole bunch. Typically
they will have 35% whole bunch, foot trodden and then crushed fruit
over this. Meaty, fresh and perfumed with violet, pepper and meaty
notes. The palate is fresh and peppery with good acid and generous,
fleshy black cherry fruit. Just brilliant. 94/100
Reyneke Cornerstone 2010 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 12% Cabernet
Franc. Very fresh and bright with lovely blackcurrant fruit. Grippy
structure with lovely precision and real purity of fruit. Lively,
pure and structured. 93/100
Reyneke Reserve Red 2008 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
This was a poor vintage in South Africa so they bought more oak
and turned up the toasting level. 90% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Intense, meaty, spicy nose wth some roasted notes. Rich, intense and
meaty. The palate is rich, dense and spicy with some noticeable oak.
Real power and structure and delicious black fruit, as well as a bit
of olive. 93/100
Reyneke Reserve Red 2009 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
Lovely meaty, structured wine with good acidity. Fresh, lively
and peppery with intense fruit. Real purity and elegance as well as
power. Brilliantly complex, this has high acidity and lovely
structure. An incredible effort. 96/100
Reyneke Reserve Red 2001 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
A bit of a blast from the past, made with a broom that was
purchased at a coop and then had its bristles cut off. Bovril and
furniture polish notes on the nose with some volatile notes. Savoury,
earthy, spicy palate is much fresher than the nose suggests. Nice
structure. 88/100
STELLENBOSCH
REVISITED
 Part
1, Waterkloof
Part
2, Waterford
part
3, Reyneke
Part
4, Kanonkop
Part 5, Rustenberg
Part
6, Meerlust
Part
7, Delheim
Part
8, Neil Ellis
Wines
tasted 03/12
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
Back
to top
|
