south
african wine, part 14
Glen Carlou, Paarl
Next visit was Glen Carlou, a well-respected winery
that’s now part of the Hess Group (along with the Hess Collection
in Napa, Peter Lehmann in Australia’s Barossa and Bodega Colomé
in Argentina’s Salta region). The 125 hectare farm is located in
the northern foothills of the Simonsberg, and has 70 hectares of
vineyards.
I met with viticulturalist Marius Cloete (left),
who gave me a tour of the vineyards and explained how technology
helps him do his job better. They use in-vineyard environmental data
gathering, which is linked up to a computer in the winery running
Plant-PLUS (here).
This is a decision support system that is used to predict the
incidence of pests and diseases, allowing control only where it is
needed.
The system uses data collected from the various parts
of the vineyard and combines these with weather forecast data,
indicating when control might be needed. Further data on the growth
phase of the vines can be added manually by the viticulturalist. As
a result, minimal chemical inputs are used, and they
system paid for itself from these savings in just one season.
Glen
Carlou have some very nice looking vineyards, but like many South
African producers have suffered from leaf roll virus in recent
years. The solution is fairly drastic: replanting with virus-free
vines. But even then, new plantings can be reinfected via infection
with mealybugs, which act as a vector for the virus.
The tasting notes below should be taken with a grain of
salt. I tasted from bottles at the cellar door most of which, I
reckon, had been open for some time. Slightly daft to treat
journalists this way, but then it was a Saturday morning I suppose.
Glen Carlou Tortoise Hill White 2005
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier. Very fresh,
clean and fruity with a nice balance between the crispness and
weight. Very good+ 87/100
Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2004
Quite a rich style with lots of nutty, savoury, spicy oak, hints
of coffee and creamy vanilla notes. The palate has nice bright fruit
and strong vanilla oak, finishing creamy. Still manages to stay
light, even though it’s a bit oaky. Very good+ 89/100
Glen Carlou Pinot Noir 2004
Aged in 700 litre French oak barrels. Tight, spicy berry fruit
here with some savoury, oaky notes. Nice weight of fruit on the
palate with some savoury, spicy structure. Not big but still bigger
than you’d expect from a Pinot Noir. Just out of the fridge. Very
good+ 88/100
Glen Carlou Grand Classique 2002
A blend of five Bordeaux varieties that’s been made since
1989. Quite rich, intense liqueur-like nose of sweet berry and black
fruits. Soft, rich and slightly flabby on the palate with some
evolution and ripe, soft red fruits. Lacks focus: a bit mushy. Very
good+ 87/100
Glen Carlou Syrah 2004
Striking nose: dark and intense with ripe, meaty black fruits,
together with some spice and roasted oak character. The palate shows
some unusual woody fruit with spicy dark fruits and an odd dusty
edge. Savoury stuff. Very good+ 88/100
Wines tasted 12/05
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