This quality minded estate was established in 1989 by cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith. They currently have 28 ha of vineyards in the cool-climate Adelaide Hills (South Australia) and their goal is to make 'contemporary, high-quality wines that stand amongst the best of their type'. A sparkling new winery was constructed for the 2000 vintage, and is very stylish and hi-tech. While for the first 10 years they focused exclusively on Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay (wisely, I feel, given the excellence of their wines from these grapes), they have now begun working with Merlot, and their intention is to produce Riesling and Pinot Noir in the future. I'm very enthusiastic about these wines, and especially the whites. They have a lot of class and restraint, and I've yet to taste a better Australian Sauvignon than their worthy example of this grape. Prices are fair considering the quality of the wines.

Sauvignon Blanc 2001, Adelaide Hills
Hand picked, principally from the Woodside Vineyard. Really attractive full-yet-delicate nose is grassy and intense, but classy with it. The palate is rich and crisp with a good intensity and balance. It is quite light in character despite the depth of flavour. Impressive stuff designed to be drunk young and fresh. Very good/excellent (£9.95 Andrew Chapman, Tesco, Fortnum & Mason, Noel Young, Selfridges)

Unoaked Chardonnay 2001, Adelaide Hills
The restrained, classy nose is delicate but with some honeyed, smoky complexity. The palate displays high-quality lemony fruit with good balance and acidity. Not too confected like some Australian unoaked Chardonnays. Restrained and classy. Very good/excellent (£9.95 Tesco, Connolly's, Harrods, Hedley Wright, Noel Young, Tanners)

M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2000, Adelaide Hills
This replaces the Reserve Chardonnay of previous vintages, and the grapes come entirely from the M3 vineyard at Woodside. Hand picked grapes. Fermented in stainless steel, with malalactic fermentation in barrique and ageing for a year in new and 1 year-old barrels. Delicious rounded, smoky, nutty nose is quite full. The palate shows good balance and acidity, with nutty, toasty notes. Nice stuff. Very good+ (Liberty Wines £15.95)