The
wines of Villa Victoria
Part 4, Visiting
Russia's Vineyards on the Black Sea Coast
The
view from the top of the property
This is a new venture, in the foothills
of the main Caucasian mountain range, on gently inclined
limestone-rich slopes. The vineyards were planted 2 years ago, and
consist mainly of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but also include
Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. There are plans to plant
some Gruner Veltliner at the top of the property. It’s a cool spot
(in temperature terms), with very interesting soils and the
potential to make quite serious wines.
The sea is near on three sides, and we
are just 15 km from the seaside resort town of Anapa. The property
is 80 hectares in all, and so far 36 have been planted. The first
crop was five tons of Sauvignon Blanc in 2011, from two year old
vines.
There are two ranges of wines currently
made. The first is Bell Tree, which at the moment is made from
brought-in grapes purchased from neighbouring vineyards. Then there
is the first label, Villa Victoria, which will be launched when the
first grapes from the estate vineyard are available.
John
Worontschak (consultant winemaker) and owner Sergei Janov
Villa Victoria is owned by Sergei Janov,
general director of Myskhako vineyard, and Victoria is his wife’s
name.
THE
WINES
Bell Tree Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Distinctive stuff with aslightly
reductive nose and a subtle herbal edge to the fresh fruit. There
are some mineral notes here and it shows good freshness. The core of
the wine is sound but the reductive notes are a little problematic.
85/100
Bell Tree Pinot Noir 2009 From four year old vines. 70% of the blend spends one year in
French oak. Very attractive cherry and plum flavours with subtle
green notes. Very supple. It really tastes like Pinot Noir, in an
elegant style that reminds me a bit of Pinot from Marlborough in New
Zealand. 88/100
Bell Tree Pinot Gris 2010 Made from Myskako grapes, which come from a warmer site. 14%
alcohol. Deep yellow colour with a hint of pink. Green herbal edge
to the nose. Fruity, rounded and fresh. This has a bit of grip and
some herbal notes. 83/100
Bell Tree Chardonnay 2010 Lots of character here. Fruity and rounded with some nuttiness,
and bright pear, apple and white peach fruit. Ripe fruit characters
to the fore. Stylish and not at all oaky. 88/100