Jas d'Esclans
Part 2, in Selling Pleasure: the incredible success story of Provence rosé, with visits to some key producers

Website: www.jasdesclans.com

There are five domaines with the Esclans name in Provence, and Jas d'Esclans is one of them. It's a vineyard that has been here a long time – it is found on 18th century maps - and in the past the property also produced olives, sheep and silk.

Gwenaëlle and Matthieu de Wulf
 

In the 1939 a Nice-based medical doctor purchased the estate and dedicated it solely to viticulture. Before this, all the grapes had gone to the Cave co-operative. Since this time, no chemicals have been used on this domaine, so it was an early adopter of organics. It gained cru classe status in 1955.

The current owners, the De Wulf family, bought the property in 2002. They'd been farming corn and potatoes just south of Bordeaux, and so coming here fulfilled a life dream. The current cellar was built in 2007/8, and then in 2010 bought a separate 23 hectare domaine 15 km away called Chateau de Vaucouleurs.

Production is 300 000 bottles per year at Jas d'Eclans, plus 50 000 more at Valcouleurs, and they sell half of this to the 50 000 cellar door visitors they receive each year. 15% is exported. 'We try to be modern in the cellar,' says Gwenaëlle De Wulf (who runs the domaine with her husband Matthieu), 'but keep the idea of organic.' Both domaines are certified organic.

THE WINES

Jas d'Esclans Blanc 2013 Côtes de Provence, France
This is a blend of Rolle (Vermentino) and Ugni Blanc. Lively, fresh and aromatic with floral pear notes. The palate is bright and pithy with a hint of fennel. Nice freshness and acidity. 88/100

Jas d'Esclans Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence, France
A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren. Pale in colour. Rounded, smooth textured, easy and soft. Quite creamy. 88/100

Jas d'Esclans Rosé Cuvée de Loup 2013 Côtes de Provence, France
Orange/pink in colour. Powerful and a bit spicy with bld cherry and plum fruit. Rich and rounded. 89/100

Jas d'Esclans Rosé Coeur du Loup 2013 Côtes de Provence, France
Grenache and Syrah, aged in wood. Creamy, broad, spicy nose with some oak. The palate is bold and a bit herby with some creaminess. 87/100

Jas d'Esclans Blanc Cuvée du Loup 2012 Côtes de Provence, France
Vermentino and Clairette, barrel fermented. Fennel, herb and spice with some creamy oak notes. Nicely textured with good fruit. 90/100

Jas d'Esclans Rouge 2012 Côtes de Provence, France
An unoaked blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Floral nose of black cherries and plums. Lovely supple red fruit palate with nice definition and a hint of chocolate. Bright and quite pretty. 89/100

Jas d'Esclans Rouge Coup de Foudres 2010 Côtes de Provence, France
Spicy, peppry, vivid nose. The palate is fresh with a lovely peppery, savoury edge to the fruit. A little meaty with a spicy southern personality and good definition. Hint of animal. 90/100

Jas d'Esclans Rouge Cuvée du Loup 2011 Côtes de Provence, France
Aged in small oak. Hint of mint and spice on the nose with nice definition, and sweet chery and blackberry fruit. There's a spicu, savoury twist to the palate. 89/100

PROVENCE ROSÉ:
Introduction
Jas d'Esclans
Domaine de Fontlade
Mirabeau
Château Pigoudet
Château Gassier
Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Côtes de Provence Vidaubannaise
Minuty
Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu'île de Saint Tropez