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Burn Cottage, Central Otago
A south Island New
Zealand road trip, part 3
With its Goethe-derived labels and biodynamic viticulture, Burn
Cottage is an interesting project. Since its debut in 2009, the Burn
Cottage Pinot Noir has become one of Central Otago's most talked
about and sought after wines.
Burn Cottage is the project of American Marquis (pronounced Marcus)
Sauvage (above). He hired a stellar team of Ted Lemon (consultant)
and Claire Mulholland (winemaker) to oversee it. It's a 27 hectare
property with 10.2 hectares of vines, on the border of Lowburn,
towards Bannockburn. The soils are predominantly sandy loams, with
some gravel, and also some fluvial and alluvial outwash.
Ted Lemon and Claire Mulholland
Marquis Sauvage's family have a history in agriculture, initially in
Kansas, and later in Australia. In the 1990s they entered the wine
distribution business. They also own a winery in the Pfalz, Germany.
The land for Burn Cottage was previously sheep farming country, and
they bought it at auction in 2002.
Ted explained that how they'd underestimated the influence of the
wind here: it's almost always negative (they don't agree that it has
any benefit in reducing vigour), and so they have spent a lot of
time and money establishing shelter belts. We also met with Shane
Livingstone, the vineyard manager. From the outset, this site has
been managed biodynamically. 'We were ridiculed by a lot of people
in Central Otago at the time,' says Ted. But now Burn Cottage has a
great reputation for its Pinot Noir. Consultancy help has come from
Peter Proctor, who is a Kiwi who works widely, including projects in
India. 'The way Peter teaches biodynamics is very different from
other consultants,' says Ted.
The vineyard is in a north-east facing amphitheatre with the Pisa
mountains behind. Most (93%) is planted to Pinot Noir, with the Abel
clone in the majority at 23% (the full set of clones:
Abel, 10/5, UCD5, 777, 667, 115, 114, MV6, 943, 828). When the
grapes are pea size, they go through and remove the shoulders and
the shattered grapes to get more even ripening. First plantings were
2003, although they had quite a bit of trouble getting good planting
material at that time. As a result, most of the vineyard was planted
in this and subsequent years, although half a hectare was added
after that every year until 2009.
We tried a range of the wines that have been released so far. The
2014 Moonlight Race is a new regional blend from three different
vineyards, and it's direct and delicious. Of the Burn Cottage
Pinots, 2014 had a slight edge over 2013 and 2012, both of which
were very good.
There's a new wine: the Riesling/Gruner Veltliner, first produced in
2014. This is quite an impressive textured white with some peppery
notes alongside the pear fruit, and it's lovely.
THE
WINES
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2015 Central Otago, New Zealand
Sweet with lush, floral cherry fruit. Sweet, warmly spicy and grippy
with freshy red cherries and spice. Textural and very fine. 95/100
(02/17)
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2014 Central Otago, New Zealand
17% whole cluster, 29% new oak. This has concentration and
freshness with black cherries, plums and spice. Lovely texture:
fine-grained tannins with really sweet cherry fruit. Very stylish,
fresh and fine. Not acidified. 94/100 (01/16)
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2013 Central Otago, New Zealand
24% whole bunch, 22% new oak. Fine with slightly peppery,
spicy nose on the nose. Ripe, sweet black cherry and blackberry
fruit on the palate, showing lovely freshness and definition. Fine,
spicy notes, too, with lovely fruit quality and texture. 94/100
(01/16)
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2012 Central Otago, New Zealand
There’s a lovely autumnal character to the nose with a sappy green
edge to the black cherry and blackberry fruit. The palate has lovely
texture and freshness with richness combined. Fine grained tannins
and sweet liqueur-like black fruits. Served slightly cooler, this
has lovely focus. 95/100 (03/17)
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2012 Central Otago, New Zealand
10% whole bunch, 25% new oak. Fine, spicy herby nose with
an intriguing pepper and ginger quality. Fresh, juicy, vivid palate
has brightness and also some structure. Nice acidity here: quite
textural with a savoury twist. 93/100 (01/16)
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2011 Central Otago, New Zealand
Fruity, vivid and juicy with subtle green notes on the nose. Lovely
precise palate has a bit more detail than the 2010 and shows
wonderful purity of fruit. Real elegance here. 95/100 (02/14)
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2010 Central Otago, New Zealand
Beautifully focused nose: fine, expressive with lovely perfume of
floral black cherry fruit. The palate is supple and ripe with sweet
fruit. Fine with nice weight, but elegant despite the concentration
of flavour. Beautifully put together. 95/100 (02/14)
Burn Cottage Moonlight Race Pinot Noir 2014 Central Otago,
New Zealand
This is a regional blend from Burn Cottage vineyard, Northburn
vineyard (organic) and Cox Family vineyard (in Gibbston,
sustainable). 15% whole cluster and 19% new oak. Aromatic with fresh
black cherries and some raspberries, as well as hints of tar and
spice. The palate has a hint of spicy oak and direct, fresh, sweet
black cherries. Lovely wine. 93/100 (01/16)
Burn Cottage Riesling/Gruner Veltliner 2014 Central Otago,
New Zealand
Roughly half/half of each variety. Grapey
sweetness with some white pepper, melon and pear notes. Textural,
with a fresh, slightly pithy finish and a hint of sweetness. 92/100
(01/16)
NEW ZEALAND ROAD TRIP 2016
 Mount
Maude, Central Otago
Rippon,
Central Otago
Burn
Cottage
Prophet's
Rock
CENTRAL
OTAGO PINOT NOIR 2014
Central Otago masterclass
Burgundy masterclass
24 fine wines tasted at the Grand Dinner
VISITING CENTRAL OTAGO (2014)
Gibbston
Valley
Chard
Farm
Wooing
Tree
Folding
Hill
Mount
Difficulty
Lowburn
Ferry
Grasshopper
Rock
Doctors
Flat
Visiting
Central Otago, New Zealand (2010) (series)
Visiting
Martinborough, New Zealand (series)
Wines
tasted as indicated
month/year
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