Part 5: Tenuta di
is midway between Florence and Siena, in Castellina. It's a 220
hectare estate with 25 hectares of vines. Half of these were planted
in the late 1950s, while the remainder was planted between 2000 and
the landscape is different. It's a smoother panorama, with many
fields that you don't really see in the higher parts of Chianti, and
enjoys a dry, warm climate.
a family property that's been in the same hands since 1865. For
almost 60 years from 1943 the winemaking was in the hands of the
same enologist, Julio Gambelli, who still tastes the wines every
year, but since 2001 Stefano Porcinai, a consultant who works with a
number of properties, and who had previously worked for the
Consorzio for 15 years.
has Stefano changed things? 'The main difference is in the care of
the vineyard', explains owner Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi (above).
'Julio Gambelli (his predecessor) is a great taster and skilled in
the winery, but didn't have any particular interest in the vineyard.
Stefano was an agronomist before he was an oenologist, so he changed
the way the vines are cultivated and opted for lower yields'.
of the features of Bibbiano is that they work with Colorino, a
lesser known grape variety of Chianti. It's a teinturier
(red-fleshed) variety, and in Autumn the leaves of the vines turn
dark red. It's a very old grape typical of this area of Chianti
Classico, but while it adds colour to the wines, its otherwise quite
neutral in flavour.
the winery, Stefano opts for long fermentations in cement tanks and
does post-ferment maceration on the skins. After malolactic the
wines go to 25 hl barrels for a few months for the Classico, and
French oak for the Riserva.
Chianti Classico 2006
100% Sangiovese. savoury, spicy,
earthy nose with some leathery notes. The palate is bright, fresh
and savoury with good acid. A traditional style. 87/100
Montornello Chianti Classico 2005
Nice aromatic nose showing bright
cherry fruit with some lovely fresh herby raspberry notes. The
palate is fresh with lovely acidity and bright berry fruits with
some grippiness. 90/100
Montornello Chianti Classico 1999
Aromatic, spicy, leathery nose is
quite complex and evolved, but has some elegance. The palate is
beautifully elegant with smooth structure and evolved fruit.
Delicious, showing lovely evolution, in a traditional style. 92/100
Montornello Chianti Classico 1997
Open evolved nose is aromatic but
light with notes of herbs and tea. Some stewed fruit notes, as well
as forest floor character. The palate is old and fading. 82/100
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino 2005
Sweet, slightly caramelized stewed red
fruits on the nose with a confected edge. The palate has nice
structure and density with berry fruit and red fruit character, as
well as a liqueur-like edge. 86/100
Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino 2005
There's a spicy, earthy edge to the attractive raspberry and
plum fruit nose, as well as some leathery notes. The palate has
lovely density and structure with good acid and some tannin, with a
gravelly edge. A lovely, well balanced, savoury style. 90/100
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino 1995
Very open, sweet, evolved spicy nose
with sweet dried herbs and subtle earthy notes. The palate is
concentrated but very evolved with warm spiciness and firm tannins.
Quite sweet, but the fruit has faded a bit. 86/100
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino 1993
Lovely aromatics: sweet cherries,
earth and spice. Well balanced and evooved, but nice. The palate
shows lovely focused earthy, spicy notes with good structure. A bit
astringent on the finish, though. 89/100
3: Castello di Querceto
4: Castello della Paneretta
6: Fattoria di Felsina
7: Castell'in Villa
9: Barone Ricasoli
10: Colle Lungo
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com