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The
new Douro: part 4
Poeira
Jorge Moriera: making a name for himself with Poeira, a new Douro
star
Perhaps the pick of the crop of the new band of
Portuguese winemakers is
Jorge Moreira, who's been winemaker at Quinta de la Rosa for a year
and a bit. Poeira, his own project, is now in the second vintage
(2002), and although this is early days still, I’ll stick my neck
out and say that this looks destined to become a classic, not just in
Portugal, but with an international reputation.
I've met Jorge a few times and tried his wines on
several occasions, but I haven't yet seen his vineyard. I have it on
good authority, though, that it consists of 2.5 hectares of old vines
and 1.5 hectares that have been newly planted.
Jorge spent seven years as winemaker with Real
Compania Velha, but felt slightly frustrated by the fact that he had
to spend so much time in Vila Nova, away from the vines. Then he had
the opportunity to buy a vineyard, Quinta da Terra Feita de Cima, in
the Pinhão valley of the
Douro
’s Cima Corgo. In this warm climate, the fact that the vineyard was
north facing was key to Jorge’s plans, because he didn’t want to
make a wine with lots of colour and heavy tannins, but rather one with
freshness, acidity and aromatic potential. Jorge was initially worried
about how his wines would be received; with their emphasis on acidity
and elegance, they go against the grain of the super-ripe
international-style that has proved so successful. He needn’t have
been concerned; with some help from his mentor
Dirk Niepoort
, whose distribution company carries the wine in
Portugal
, the 2001 sold out quickly.
While 2002 was a difficult vintage in the
Douro
, if anything his 2002 has surpassed the superb 2001 in terms of
quality. There's none for the UK, as yet - let's hope this changes.
Poeira
2002
Initially quite shy, savoury and taut on the nose, but opens out
to reveal spicy, liquoricey edged dark fruits with a lovely earthy
complexity. The palate is concentrated and dense with more dark fruits
and a profound structure: spicy, earthy tannins with good acidity.
Very refined and intense. It's not as aromatic and forward as the
2001, but there's perhaps better structure and longevity to this. A
tiny bit stern at the moment, but will likely be singing in a decade's
time, and may evolve positively for even longer. Very good/excellent
94/100
see
also: a previous report
on Poeira, and a tasting
note on the 2001
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