Dow's
and Quinta Senhora da Ribeira
Visiting the Symingtons in Portugal's Douro Valley, part 5
One of the
leading Port houses, Dow is part of the Symington family’s
portfolio. Three quintas contribute to Dow’s Ports. The most
important is Quinta do Bomfim, which has 49 hectares of well
situated south-facing vineyards, and is located in the heart of the
Cima Corgo just upstream of Pinhão. We visited just briefly, for a
look at the cellars and winemaking facilities.
The
view across to Vesuvio
Then there’s
Quinta da Senhora de Ribeira, with 21 hectares of vines, and two
Quintas privately owned by the Symington family (Quinta do Santinho
and Quinta da Cerdeira, totalling 18 hectares).
Dow’s is one of
the top Vintage Ports, made in a slightly drier style than some,
with real fruit focus and firm structure. When it isn’t made,
single Quinta Ports from Bomfim and Senhora de Ribeira may be
released.
Senhora de
Ribeira is a property that was in the Symington family until the
1950s, when it was sold during tough times. It was bought back in
1998. It’s a south-facing property some 600 metres away from
Quinta do Vesuvio, just over the river, with 24 hectares of vines.
We visited early evening, and watched some of the mechanical
(robotic) lagares in action. Robotic treading is an impressive,
rather serene sight. The pistons move across the lagar slowly, and
descend slowly and rhythmically, punching down the viscous mass of
skins, pips and juice.
There’s a small
chapel here where people would pray to Senhora da Ribeira (Lady of
the River) before using the river crossing at this point in the
Douro.
THE
WINES
Dow’s Quinta
de Bomfim 1999
Sweet, rounded, supple and textured with some signs of
evolution. Nice density and notes of earth and chocolate in the
background. Not too sweet with supple tannins and good balance.
93/100
Dow’s
Crusted Port 2004
Mellow, sweet and textured with rich fruit and notes of earth
and spice, as well as a touch of mint. A supple, textured wine
that’s quite delicious. 91/100
Dow’s Quinta
Senhora da Ribeira 1998
This was the first wine the Symingtons made after they got the
property back. Rich, bold, concentrated and rounded, with some
elegant black cherry and blackberry fruit. Intense and harmonious.
Rich, meaty and quite spicy. There’s great concentration here.
94/100
Dow’s Quinta
Senhora da Ribeira 2006
So aromatic with floral and black cherry aromatics. Lovely
fruit. The palate is intense and sweet with black cherry and
blackberry, showing real intensity and a nice finish. Brilliantly
expressive. 95/100
Dow’s Quinta
Senhora da Ribeira 2009
300 cases made. Very sweet, open berryish nose is ripe and
alluring. Fruity, lively and aromatic with some violet and black
cherry notes. Elegant, smooth and stylish on the palate with hints
of mint, some meat, and dense blackberry fruit supported by nice
structure. Supple style with no rough edges. 94/100
VISITING
THE SYMINGTONS
Part
1, introduction
Part 2, Warre's
and Quinta da Cavadinha
Part 3, Graham's
and Malvedos
Part 4,
Cockburn's and Quinta dos Canais
Part
5, Dow's and
Senhora de Ribeira
Part 6, Vesuvio,
foot-treading and mechanical lagares
Part 7, Quinta de
Roriz and the table wines
Part
8, Photographs
Wines
tasted 09/11
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