The wines of Brokenwood, Hunter Valley, Australia

I’ve got some history with this winery. When I was first getting into wine, a good friend who was acting as my unofficial wine mentor poured me some Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hermitage. I was taken (the Graveyard vineyard is pictured right). It was being sold by our local independent, the Wine House in Wallington, and the vintage being sold was the 1991. At £13.49 a bottle, this was my first serious splurge, and I bought three bottles. Alas, they are all now gone, and Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz (Hermitage has long since been dropped from the label) is now £40 a bottle. Interestingly, another regular purchase at the time, the Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay, is still the same price as it was back then in 1993.

Since their beginnings in 1970 - established by a consortium including James Halliday - Brokenwood have expanded their production well beyond their Hunter homeland. Grapes are now sourced from all around South eastern Australia, with emphasis on McLaren Vale, Padthaway and even the Yarra in Victoria.

Cricket Pitch Sauvignon Semillon 2002
Comes fom Cowra, McLaren Vale and King Valley. Ripe, fruity, fresh and correct. Nice weight and balance. Very good+ 85/100

Hunter Valley Semillon 2003
21st vintage of this classic. Really nice lemony fresh white. It’s a little simple and fruity at the moment. Light and zesty. Very good+ 86/100

ILR Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 1998
Nice nutty and honeyed fruit with a fresh lemony twist. Soft, rounded, nutty palate is evolved but still displaying plenty of freshness. Very good+ 88/100

Forest Edge Vineyard Chardonnay 2002 Orange, New South Wales
Barrel fermented with wild yeasts. Rounded, rich toasty nose is very full and classy. Lovely savoury rich nutty palate with rich texture. Lots of complex ripe fruit here. Delicious and integrated. Very good/excellent 91/100

Cricket Pitch Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2001
Also has a bit of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc in it; origins are McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Yarra Valley. Rich chocolatey fruit. Ripe and rounded. The palate shows ripe chocolatey black fruits – a tasty wine. Very good+ 86/100

Shiraz 2000
A multi-tegion blend with contributions from McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Hunter Valley, Yarra Valley and King Valley; aged in a mix of American and French oak. Tasty ripe and smooth, this is showing some evolution. Rich, ripe chocolatey nose dominated by sweet berry fruits. The palate displays smooth, rich spicy fruit. Quite soft. Very good+ 88/100

Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2000 McLaren Vale
From a single 2 acre vineyard. Lovely ripe, intense nose is bold and full with a spicy undercurrent. The palate is very ripe, spicy and concentrated with smooth rich fruit. Great concentration, lots of fruit and some evolution already. Very good/excellent 90/100

Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2001 Hunter Valley
Aged mostly in new French oak after fermentation in two ton open fermentors. Nicely defined spicy nose is intense and rich. The palate shows a good concentration of well-defined rich fruit with a rich spiciness and some earthy elements under the fruit. Good acidity. Very good/excellent 92/100

availability: many of these wines are stocked by Oddbins and Noel Young wines (see directory of wine merchants)

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UK agent: Liberty Wines (info@libertywine.co.uk)
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