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The
New Barossa
Part 2:
Rockford
Krondorf Road,
Tanunda, South Australia, 5352
Phone: (08) 8563 2720 Fax: (08) 8563 3787
The
courtyard of the Rockford winery, in winter
 My
investigation of the new Barossa actually began with a bit of a recap.
Still feeling a little tired from my flight and a bit distraught about
the low temperature (I’d just come from Singapore, and I was
freezing in the September chill), I lunched and then made my way to
Rockfords. This was one of the wineries I visited on my previous trip,
back in March 1996, but this time I was coming as a
‘professional’. I was received by Travis O’Callaghan (right), son of the
founder, Rocky.
 Travis is a dude. He’s the sort of person you
describe as a ‘character’, and he has a dangerous glint in his
eye. Chippy (left), who also works at Rockford is another dude, but quite
different to Travis – he plays Aussie rules. We had a look round the
winery – there’s a lot of interesting, traditional-looking
equipment (most is old stuff salvaged from other wineries as they
modernized), together with two new
custom build basket presses. The
basket press is a traditional device for pressing red wines, more labo ur intensive than modern alternatives, but generally giving a
better result because of the gentler effect it has, and it's a device
automatically associated with Rockford because their flagship wine is
named after it - the basket press Shiraz.
Then we tasted some wines together.
Tradition is important here: this winery is almost
museum-like. In the early 70s O’Callaghan bought an 1850s cottage,
and he’s built the winery around a courtyard out of the same
materials. He’d already served his apprenticeship at Seppelts in
Rutherglen; his parents were growers before him. There’s a sense of
permanence about this place that is reassurring.
| Rockford is still thought of as a new, boutique winery,
but they’ve been going a while now and poduction has built up to the
point where they are crushing 400–500 tons annually. I guess I
wouldn’t call Rockford ‘new Barossa’. Along with the likes of
Charles Melton and St Hallett (now under Lion Nathan ownership),
Rockford is now one of the Barossa establishment, making solid and
sometimes exciting wines in what I’d call the traditional Barossa
style.
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The
old basket press
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Like many other Barossa producers, Rockford rely
heavily on growers. They have a network of 35 growers spread around
the various Barossa subregions, although Travis says that they don’t
source much from down the south. He’s proud to point out that in 20
years they’ve only lost one grower. I have a feeling this is a good
place to start in my journey to see how the Barossa is evolving.
 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling 2001
Lovely limey nose is delicate yet full, and quite crisp. Very rounded
on the palate with a softness in the middle. The fuller, rounded fruit
comes from older vines: it’s a traditional, older style of Riesling,
but with no residual sugar. Very good+ 88/100
Rockford Barossa Semillon 2001
Made in large, old French oak vats. This has a distinctive lemony,
herby nose which is quite complex, with full, rounded fruit. Lovely
and fresh. Very good/excellent 90/100
Rockford Alicante Bouschet 2004 Barossa Valley
Deep coloured, as you’d expect from this variety. Distinctive
powerful, rich style with lots of ripe berry and cherry fruit. Sweet,
fresh and yet quite soft, too. A fun wine. Very good+ 87/100
Rockford Moppa Springs 2000
A blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Quite sweet and spicy –
almost Porty – with a touch of tarriness. Very soft and spicy; quite
woody and traditional in style. Very nice. Very good+ 89/100
Rockford Rod and Spur 2001
The third vintage of this Cabernet/Shiraz blend. Distinctive minty,
herbaceous edge to the nose. The palate is spicy and rich with a nice
herby character. Good structure. Very good+ 88/100
Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 2001
From 30 different old vine vineyards in the region, a wine with a
loyal following. Spicy, rich nose: this is classic Barossa Shiraz.
Structured, full palate with lovely balance and rich, soft tannins.
Lots of structure. Elegant, almost, with good acidity. Very
good/excellent 92/100
1998 Shiraz Vintage Port
Lovely purity of fruit on the nose, which is silky and rich with some
woody, herby complexity. The palate is soft, smooth and rich with some
tannic structure. Very good/excellent 92/100
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