Altogether I recommended 51 wines in this category, and with these
more expensive wines the old world:new world split was a little more
even than with the sub £8 category, with 30 old world wines and 21
from the new. France came out on top again (17), but Australia (10)
did better than I'd have expected, and there were strong-ish showings
from New Zealand and Italy, with 5 each. The USA managed 3 entries (I
didn't recommend any sub £8 wines from the States), but there were
none from South America or Germany. Spain, Austria and the Lebanon
managed a couple each; Portugal and the UK just one.
It's worth remembering that these are not the absolute 'best' wines
I tasted this year. Many excellent wines didn't make the
recommendations pages simply because they are not (or no longer)
available in the UK marketplace, or are simply so expensive that the
value for money just isn't there. As an example, I've tasted better
wines this year from Albert Mann (Alsace) than his Tokay Pinot Gris
Vieilles Vignes 1999, but it makes the list because it's readily
available from Oddbins, whereas his excellent Riesling Grand Cru
Schlossberg 1999 will extremely difficult for readers to track down
(I've just noticed that Lay and Wheeler stock the 1998, so presumably
they will have this soon).
And the wonderful 1999 Côte Rotie from Jamet doesn't appear here
because unless you ordered some en primeur, then there'll be none left
for you. Still, having said this, it's an impressive list of wines,
and I've chosen six to include in my
mixed case of 12 wines of the year.
France (17)
Domaine La Courtade 1998, Côtes du Provence
From an ambitious domaine on the island of Porqourelles, this is a
really attractive Mourvèdre-based wine in a modern mould. Lovely,
exotic nose of deep, smoky fruit with liquorice and menthol. On the
palate it is tannic and dense -- although it is oaky, there's a nice
balance between this and the fruit. Very good/excellent (£13.95 La
Vigneronne)
Albert Mann Tokay Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes 1999, Alsace
From a tricky vintage a lovely expression of Pinot Gris. This
isn't big and fat like some examples of this grape can be, but instead
shows good balance. It displays rounded, ripe grapey/spicy flavours,
and notes of honey, toffee apples and smoke, with a long spicy finish.
Just a touch of residual sugar: the overall impression is quite dry. A
rich, full flavoured food wine. Very good+ (£10.49 Oddbins)
Mas de Daumas Gassac 1996, Vin de Pays de l'Herault
Possibly the most famous wine from the south of France, this
almost lives up to its huge reputation, but there's a touch of
greenness that stops it being really great. Deep red/black colour.
Intense nose of complex cassis with a leafy mineral streak. Good
concentration and complexity, with ripe fruit, firm tannins and a
slightly green streak (although this isn't unpleasant). Almost
claret-like in its balance. Very good/excellent (£12.99 Tesco)
Domaine de la Casa Blanca, Banyuls Tradition 1998
A fortified wine from the Roussillon region of France (near the
Mediterranean border with Spain) this is made mainly from the Grenache
Gris grape. Ripe, sweet, herbal nose -- slightly caramelized. Full,
dense and rich on the palate, with great balance and sweet herbiness.
This has plenty of what is known as 'rancio' character. Very good/
excellent (£10.95 La Vigneronne)
Rabasse-Charavin Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne Cuvée
d'Estevenas 1998
The name is a bit of a mouthful, but this is a breathtaking
expression of Grenache from ancient vines and low yields. I was blown
away by the full-on, attractive, fragrant and peppery nose. This leads
to a palate displaying concentrated, ripe spicy fruit with a touch of
sweetness to it. Very good/excellent (£10.67, A&B Vintners)
Bergerie de L’Hortus Classique 1999, Pic St Loup, Coteaux du
Languedoc
Refreshingly, this new-wave southern French red is not some
overoaked 14° alcohol monster, but instead is a classic example of
why Pic St Loup is one of the most impressive communes in the
Languedoc. The nose is deliciously meaty, herby, smoky and earthy,
with some raspberry/damson fruit. The palate shows meaty, olive-laced
fruit with quite high acidity and a lovely savoury character. Good
balance. Very good/excellent (£8.50 Lea & Sandeman, Handford)
Domaine La Rocalière Lirac Cuvée Prestige 1998
This large domaine makes two special Cuvées (in addition to their
regular cuvée which is stocked by Majestic): one is a varietal Syrah,
and this one is a varietal Mourvédre. It is impressive stuff for the
price (I've previously enjoyed the 1995, which was superb). Deep
red/black colour with an arresting nose of meaty fruit. Firm, tannic
palate with some peppery fruit and chunky, full-on flavours. Nicely
balanced. Impressive wine with nice ageing potential. Very
good/excellent (£8.95 La Vigneronne)
Domaine de la Marfée, Les Champs Murmurés 1998, Coteaux du
Languedoc
A 'garage wine' from the Languedoc: Thierry Hasard apparently
vinifies this wine in the basement of his house in the centre of
Montpellier, and first vintage was in 1997. This is a blend of Syrah,
Grenache and Cinsault A deep red/black colour, with a forward, smoky,
liquorice nose. Complex and full, this has a lovely, rich palate with
firm, spicy tannins and a nice mineral streak. With great balance,
this is modern and delicious; for the long haul. Excellent (£18.75 La
Vigneronne)
Guigal Condrieu 1999, Northern Rhône
I have mixed feelings about Guigal's wines. Although the single
vineyard Côte Rôties are cult wines, the rest of the range seems to
hitch a ride on the back of their fame: I've been pretty unimpressed
by most of the large negociant range. But one wine that's almost
always one of the best examples of its type is the Condrieu. A rich,
peachy, spicy nose leads to a lovely full, fat-textured palate with
some floral notes. It’s a lovely, balanced, full flavoured example
of Condrieu. It isn’t cheap, but Condrieu never is. Very
good/excellent (Sainsbury £19.99)
Domaine Gros' Noré Bandol Rouge 1999, Provence
Alain Pascal's Domaine Gros' Noré is one of the leading Bandol
estates and has catapulted to fame since releasing its first wines
just two years ago. I was impressed by the 1998, but if anything the
1999 is even better. A deep purple/red colour. I'm very taken with the
intense nose, currently dominated by ripe, liquoricey fruit. The
palate is tannic and powerful; savoury and dry. There's a great
density of herby, olive-laced fruit. It's quite clean, but still
packed with character. Excellent (£15 La Vigneronne)
Ogier Côte Rôtie 1996
A profound wine from the Northern Rhône. Stunning nose: meaty,
herby, pungent, medicinal but at the same time delicate and with a
floral edge. On the mid-weight palate the firm tannins and high
acidity balance beautifully with the dense, earthy fruit. It's savoury
and delicious: the antithesis to the new oak, high alcohol, overripe
fruit international style that's so prevalent these days. Excellent
(Berry Bros £14.95)
Domaine Bertagna 1997 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Plantes
This is a lovely red Burgundy. A full red/black colour, it shows a
complex, deep, rounded nose of cherries with some spicy notes and a
touch of caramel. On the palate there's still plenty of lush primary
fruit, but underneath this there's an undercurrent of complex earthy,
herby notes that suggest that this one still has some development
ahead of it. Excellent (Berry Bros £26.95)
Domaine Les Aurelles 'Aurel' 1998, Coteaux du Langeudoc
From a domaine located near Pezenas started a few years ago by
Karl Mauguin and Basile Saint-Germain. This is a Grenache, Syrah,
Mourvèdre blend from low-yielding old vines. A red/black colour, this
has a ripe, herby, sweetly fruited nose. Soft spicy fruit is backed by
firm tannins. It's chunky and savoury, and a bit like a very good
Châteauneuf du Pape. Very good/excellent, but needs time. (£15.95 La
Vigneronne)
Elian Daros Chante Coucou 1998 Côtes du Marmandais
A big chunky red from the South West of France, showing massive
concentration and extraction. An opaque purple/red colour, the nose
shows ripe blackcurrant fruit, with minerals, spice and smoky notes.
The juicy palate has dense, firm tannins, ripe fruit and good acidity.
Herb and olive notes add some southern complexity. This dense wine is
a bit chewy at the moment and really needs a few years to develop some
class to add to its power. Very good/excellent (£8.50 la Vigneronne)
Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg Turkheim 1993, Alsace
A deep yellow/gold colour, this expressive Riesling has a lovely
rich nose with a citrus edge and some spicy notes. The full, fat
palate has bags of ripe citrussy fruit and tangy acidity. It's quite
complex and with a little bit of residual sugar there's nice balance
here, and it's not too sweet and fat to pair well with food. Drinking
beautifully now, and quite profound in a ripe style. Excellent (Wine
Rack discounted to £9.99) [Note: you may have to hunt around a bit in
various Wine Rack and Bottoms Up stores to find this. They used to
carry an excellent and well priced Alsace range, which they seem to be
reducing drastically. There are some bargains to be had, but watch out
for poor storage conditions.]
Château Fleur Cardinale 1995, Saint Emilion
It's rare to find anything serious from Bordeaux at less than a
tenner, but this St Emilion is super stuff with real class. Nice
softly perfumed nose with herby, smoky and cedary notes leads to a
well balanced palate, showing some minerality and smooth tannins. A
great interpretation of a classic style. Very good/excellent (£8.99
Bentalls)
Jean Heywang Klevener de Heiligenstein 1998, Alsace
Apparently, the rare variety of Klevener (not the same as Klevner,
which is used a synonym for Pinot Blanc in Alsace), has been a
speciality of Heiligenstein since 1742. This is a rich yellow/gold
colour, and shows a rich, ripe nose with a spicy edge and some
botrytis-like notes. There’s a touch of sulphur and some
mineral-like elements too. It is soft, honeyed and mineralic on the
palate with lovely texture and length. There’s just a touch of
residual sugar: it is not bone dry but it’s not all that sweet,
either. A complex wine, best with food. Very good/excellent (£10 La
Vigneronne)
UK (1)
Ridgeview Cuvée Merret Belgravia NV, England
Along with Nyetimber, Ridgeview are making the UKs best
Champagne-style wines. A blend of the three main Champagne varieties,
this is a stunning effort from fizz specialists Ridgeview. It has a
grapey, yeasty nose which is followed up on the palate with a lovely
bready character, fine bubbles and great balance. The overall
impression is of a sophisticated, polished product. Very
good/excellent (Available direct from the producer, 01444 241441)
Australia (10)
Rymill Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 Coonawarra, Australia
Beautifully perfumed nose showing leafy blackcurrant with cedar
notes and a mineralic core. The palate is full, with lovely fruit and
some real complexity: no new oak apparent. A delicious drop. Very
good/excellent (£8.99 Majestic)
Lost Lake Shiraz 1999, Pemberton, Western Australia
Deep red/black colour. Very interesting nose of mint and herbs
(thyme and rosemary). Powerful, odd-but-fascinating herbal palate:
tastes like a Provencal hillside. Firm tannins. Lovely stuff. Very
good/excellent (£10.52 Domaine Direct)
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 1998, South Australia
Often dubbed the 'poor man's Grange', Bin 389 is normally an
excellent, ageworthy wine in its own right. Like most of the other Bin
series, this is a multi region South Australian blend, and the 1998 is
57% Cabernet/43% Shiraz. Aged for 14 months in new (22%) and used
American oak. It has a huge ripe, spicy nose with complex menthol
notes and herb and berry fruit elements. The palate is dense, rich and
full: this is a classically styled, complex wine of great weight and
power, that will presumably age very nicely. Although the price has
crept up in recent years to £15, comparatively this is still good
value for a wine with a track record for ageing like this. Excellent
(£14.99, widely available)
D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz 1998, McLaren Vale, Australia
Surprisingly, still available on the UK market at opening price,
despite being awarded 96 Parker points a while back. Rich, exotic nose
is quite striking, showing complex notes of tarry, liquoricey fruit
and menthol-edged new oak. The palate is rich and dense with lush
fruit, hiding a whack of tannin. It's a substantial wine, potentially
very good indeed in time. I'd buy a few bottles of this and tuck it
away for a few years. Remember, in the USA this sells for at least
twice the UK price. Very good/excellent (£17.50 Bibendum)
De Bortoli 1996 Rare Dry Botrytis Semillon, South Eastern
Australia
De Bortoli are famous for their sweet botrytised 'Noble One', but
they also make this oddity, a dry white wine made with a proportion of
botrytised grapes. It's a full golden colour, with a remarkable nose
of honey, citrus fruit, spice and marmalade. The palate is spicy and
bone dry, with more of the distinctive marmalade/apricot botrytis
character. A very unusual wine, but one with real appeal -- so
unusual, it is likely to make just as many enemies as friends.
Personally, I love it. Very good/excellent (£8.95 Berry Bros)
Green Point Brut 1996, Domaine Chandon, Yarra Valley, Australia
Australia's classiest fizz? The rear label discloses that this is
55% Pinot Noir, 44% Chardonnay (I wonder what the missing 1% is?),
aged for 30 months on the yeast lees. A full golden colour, this has a
rich, yeasty, bready nose. The intense, creamy palate shows lovely
balance and good acidity, with attractive butterscotch undertones. One
of my favourite new world sparkling wines. Very good/excellent
(£11.99 Oddbins)
Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 1998, South Australia
Providing you like the house style (and I do), the Penfolds 1998
reds are a spectacular bunch of wines. It's a shame that they've seen
some price hikes over recent years, but the Bin 28 still offers some
value for money. Sourced from the Barossa and Clare Valleys and aged
for 14 months in American oak. A deep red/purple colour this has a
full, spicy nose with attractive minty notes and bags of ripe berry
fruit. The full, dense palate shows great intensity and lovely spicy
oak notes. A full throttle, ripe wine that should age nicely. Very
good/excellent (£9.99 Oddbins)
Pirramimma Premium Shiraz 1998, McLaren Vale, Australia
I've probably been a little 'old world-centric' in my
recommendations over the last few months, so I'll try to counter this
with my next three recommendations. This splendid, well priced wine
from the McLaren Vale is the ultimate winter warmer. An opaque
red/purple colour, this has an exotic, ripe, lush nose with some
new-oak-derived menthol notes. The thick, inky palate shows ripe,
liquoricey, almost Port-like fruit. It's quite delicious in the
full-throttled McLaren Vale style: very oaky, but the fruit can just
about handle it. Very good/excellent (£9.99 Majestic, but buy 2 save
£3 from Nov 5th)
Cullen Estate Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 1998, Margaret River,
Australia
Organically produced and barrel fermented with natural yeasts.
Classy white with a sophisticated toasty nose and seamless palate,
with ripe, complex fruit. Really impressive stuff, but not cheap. Very
good/excellent (Adnams £11.95)
Yellowglen Vintage 1998 (Victoria, Adelaide Hills, McLaren
Vale), Australia
This is an impressive Aussie sparkling wine, made from two-thirds
Pinot Noir and a third Chardonnay, grown in various high-quality
vineyard areas in South Australia and Victoria. A pale yellow colour
with a fine mousse, the nose shows classy yeasty and bready notes. The
palate is subtle and balanced, with good acidity. Very good/excellent
(£9.99 Oddbins)
New Zealand (5)
Millton Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 1998, Gisborne
From a New Zealand's best known biodynamic producer, this is quite
restrained on the nose, but it has a great impact on the palate,
showing flavours of rich, nutty, bready flavours. Complex and
seamless, this is a very classy Chardonnay: subtle and restrained.
Very good/excellent (£8.99 Tesco)
Montana Reserve Chardonnay 2000, Marlborough, New Zealand
Tried twice recently with consistent notes; I'm not afraid to
recommend large production, branded wines when they are this good.
Lovely nose shows ripe peach and tropical fruit, combined well with
toasty, nutty oak. The palate is deep, rich and nutty, with lots of
fruit and quite a dash of oak influence. There's also a herbal edge
and a bit of spice and coconut in the background. Great concentration
of flavour. Very good/excellent (£8.99 Tesco)
Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir 1999, Martinborough, New
Zealand
No longer playing second fiddle to the whites, New Zealand reds
have steadily been building their reputation over the last five years
or so, and at the forefront of this quality revolution are the Pinot
Noirs from the Martinborough region (also known as Wairapa). The
eponymous Martinborough Estate is one of the top producers here, and I
actually preferred this, their regular Pinot Noir, to the far more
ambitious (and expensive) reserve bottling. It's a deep red/purple
colour, with a pungent, medicinal edge to the sweet berry fruit on the
nose. The palate is lovely, rich and savoury, with quite firm tannins
and good complexity. Very good/excellent (c. £14, Oddbins, Wine Rack)
Montana Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc 1999, Marlborough, New
Zealand
A single vineyard Sauvignon, some of which is fermented and aged
in oak to add complexity. The nose is intense and refined with
restrained herby, gooseberry notes. The palate is crisp and classy,
with spicy, savoury fruit. This isn't an in-yer-face style of
Sauvignon; instead it oozes a taut, restrained, classy aura. Very
good/excellent (Oddbins c. £10)
Montana Fairhall Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 1997,
Marlborough, New Zealand
I think this is the first New Zealand red that I've recommended on
these pages, and it's a stunning effort. The rich, classy, complex
nose shows sweet blackcurrant and red berry fruit. On the palate a
lovely mineral character underlies the rich, spicy berry fruit.
Full-on but still well balanced. Excellent (£11.99, some Oddbins
stores)
USA (3)
Yorkville Cellars Petit Verdot 1997, Rennie Vineyard, Mendocino,
California
It's rare to find varietally bottled Petit Verdot, so I was keen
to try this example from Californian organic producers Yorkville. It's
a fairly serious wine, with an opaque purple colour and deep
extraction. There's an exotic nose of herbs and olives, which is
followed up with a firmly tannic palate showing liquoricey fruit and a
dusty, chalky texture. It’s a very attractive, powerful red which
wears its new world origins on its sleeves. Tasty stuff. Very good+ (Waitrose
£8.99)
Saintsbury 'Garnet' Carneros Pinot Noir 1999, Carneros,
California
It's rare that Californian wines make my recommended list. It's
not that they aren't tasty enough, it is just that they rarely offer
good value for money. 25% new oak is used to produce this 'entry
level' Pinot Noir. It may be the lesser of the Pinots that Carneros
superstars Saintsbury produce in terms of price, but it is a classy
wine in its own right. The lovely cherry/herby nose is attractive and
savoury, with a slight medicinal edge. There's lovely balance on the
palate, with cherry fruit and nice complexity. A real treat. Very
good/excellent (£11.90 Justerini & Brooks, although they are
currently selling the 1998 vintage)
Ridge York Creek Petite Sirah 1998, Santa Cruz Mountains,
California
The least expensive of Ridge's wines, giving a good example of the
house style that has made this Californian winery so successful. It's
a really impressive example of Petite Sirah, often considered to be a
lesser variety. The attractive herby/spicy nose leads to a powerful,
tannic palate. This is a huge, dense, chunky wine -- it's almost
impenetrable at the moment. Still balanced despite its size. Very
good/excellent (c. £15, La Vigneronne, Handford and other independent
wine merchants)
Italy (5)
Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani 'Vigna Tecc' 1999, Piedmont,
Italy
Dolcetto is a grape that's had to live in the shadow of its big
brother in Piedmont, Nebbiolo (the grape of Barolo), but Einaudi take
this supposedly 'lesser' grape pretty seriously. A single vineyard
wine from the Dogliani commune made only from the oldest vines. It's a
beautiful deep purple colour and displays ripe, sweet, black cherry
fruit on the nose. The palate is soft, sweet and fruity, and shows
great concentration. Gorgeous. Very good/excellent (£10.95 Lea &
Sandeman)
Marchesi de Frescobaldi Nippozano Reserva 1997 Chianti Rufina
A serious Chianti with some structure, this has a savoury nose of
herbs and olives. On the palate there are savoury, spicy, herby notes,
good fruit (damsons and cherries) with great balance and some
complexity. It has a spicy edge and dry tannins that are firm enough
to suggest that this wine will age nicely. Very good+ (£8.99 Oddbins)
Anselmi San Vicenzo 1999 IGT Veneto
Nice minimalist packaging conceals a lovely full flavoured Italian
white wine from overachieving producer Anselmi. There's an attractive
smokiness to the nose, and the fresh, creamy, herby palate shows
savoury, grapey fruit. Nicely balanced and with a beguiling complexity
that makes me want to try his more serious single vineyard bottling.
Very good/excellent (£8.50 Fortnum and Mason)
Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 1997, Tuscany, Italy
The first vintage of this, the new flagship wine of the estate,
made from Sangiovese and aged for 18 months in barrique. A
concentrated red/purple colour, this delicious wine shows a herby,
slightly medicinal nose with tar and leather notes. The palate is firm
and tannic, with lots of structure and dense red berry fruit. There's
a lovely savoury character and the finish is bone dry. Very
good/excellent (£18 Noel Young, £20 Chandos Deli)
Saint Jurosa 1998, Lis Neris - Alvaro Pecorari, Friuli Isonzo,
Italy
I've enjoyed other less expensive bottlings of Chardonnay from
Pecorari, and this is his highly impressive top effort with this
grape. A yellow/golden colour, it has an almost breathtaking nose of
toasty, nutty new oak and ripe, savoury fruit. The palate is classy,
with good concentration, lean-but-full fruit and plenty of oak.
However, although you'd certainly classify this wine as oak-driven,
the oaking is very sophisticated and is brilliantly integrated. Very
good/excellent (Berry Bros £13.95)
South Africa (3)
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 1999, Walker Bay, South Africa
I'm a big fan of this wine, which is nicely poised between the new
and old world styles, as are many of the best Chardonnays from the
cape. Wonderful toasty nose: complex, nutty and full. Rich and
balanced on the palate with a rich, savoury edge. Lovely stuff.
Excellent. (Around £12, stockists usually include Bentalls, Fortnum
& Mason, Oddbins Fine Wine)
De Wetshof Estate Bateleur Chardonnay 1998, Robertson, South
Africa
Geisenheim-trained Danie De Wet is a Chardonnay specialist, and this
is his top wine -- in my book this is a real winner. It has a
stunning, complex, nutty nose; not overblown, but quite restrained,
with hints of butterscotch, minerals and toast. On the palate the wine
shows a spicy complexity: it's mineralic, has good lemony acidity and
is concentrated yet lean. Thoroughly enjoyable, and not at all the
typical new world style, despite the relatively prominent oak
influence. Excellent (£12 Fortnum & Mason)
Vergelegen 'The Vergelegen' 1998, Stellenbosch, South Africa
The flagship wine is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot
and 5% Cabernet Franc, that is aged for 22 months in new oak. It's a
classy red, showing a lovely density of rich fruit with a nice leafy
edge to it. With well integrated oak, it's well integrated despite the
great concentration, and there's a minerally complexity. Very
good/excellent (£17.99 Oddbins, Sainsbury)
Portugal (1)
Gouvyas Reserva 1997 Bago de Touriga, Douro, Portugal
The Bago de Touriga winery was set up in 1995 by João Roseira and
oenologist Luis Soares Duarte, and this reserva wine is made from a
blend of Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Francesca. Aged in new
Portuguese oak for 10 months, just 5000 bottles were produced. A
bright red/purple colour, this wine is full of personality. It has a
complex nose of ripe cherries, spice, herbs and tar, with some
high-toned floral elements. The palate is full, spicy and mouthfilling,
with high acidity and firm tannins. The Portuguese oak is evident:
there's no doubt about where this wine came from. This is lovely stuff
that will probably age well for many years. Very good/excellent (£10
Reserva y Cata, Spanish internet shop that delivers to the UK)
Spain (2)
Finca Allende Rioja 1996, Spain
A new-wave wine from Rioja, made from 100% Tempranillo aged in
French oak barrels (as opposed to the American oak normally used in
this region). It's a lovely rich olive- and herb-laced wine with ripe,
concentrated sweet fruit and a soft texture. Tasted blind, I'd
probably have put this in the southern Rhône; it is full of herby
interest but avoids the trap of being too rustic or overoaked. If you
like thin, fruitless, vanilla-laced Riojas, this wine won't be for
you. Very good/excellent 05/01 (£13.49 Handford Holland Park, also at
Everywine and Virgin wines)
Marques de Grinon Dominio de Valdepusa Petit Verdot 1999 La
Mancha, Spain
The Dominio de Valdepusa range is stronger than ever in the 1999
vintage, and I'd happily recommend all their wines. I've chosen to
single out this one, though, because it's rare to find varietal Petit
Verdot wines. This is a superb example of what this grape is capable
of. A dense wine showing an nose of liquorice and raspberry fruit,
with a nice smoky edge. The palate displays lush, raspberry laced
fruit and chunky tannins. Hugely concentrated and needs time, but a
lovely wine. Very good/excellent (Quite hard to find; Noel Young have
stocked previous vintages of this wine, so they could be worth trying:
price around £13. The Cabernet and Syrah are more widely stocked; try
Tesco and Unwins, but steer clear of 96/97 vintages which aren't as
good).
Austria (2)
Heidler Gruner Veltliner Spiegel 2000, Kamptal, Austria
A pale yellow colour, this has a subtle, rounded lemony nose with
a touch of spice. The palate shows good balance, with a nice mineral
character and some lemony notes, together with a peppery edge. Good
extract and concentration. Pretty classy stuff, and will probably
improve with short term cellaring. Finished dry and spicy. Very good+
(£8.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben 1998,
Langenlois, Kamptal, Austria
A sensationally bold interpretation of Riesling. Pretty alcoholic
at 14%, but not unbalanced. Beautifully enticing smoky, spicy nose
(some botrytis here?). The concentrated, rich palate shows complex
notes of lime, spice and honey, with a bone dry finish. Quite
delicious. Excellent (Bibendum £18)
Lebanon (2)
Château Musar 1994, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
A very attractive, forward example of Musar, one of the most
individual wines on the market. Light in colour with a browning rim.
Full, bold, dangerous nose (high volatile acidity that just stops
short of being faulty) with sweet, exotic herbal notes and hints of
old leather and tea. Spicy, rich palate is warm and sweetly fruited,
with high acidity, very little tannin, ripe cherry and strawberry
fruit. Overall, beautifully balanced and complete. Very good/excellent
(Sainsbury, Majestic and elsewhere, about £11)
Château Musar 1996, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
The latest release of this unusual, characterful wine. 1996 is
described by Musar as a more elegant year for them; it's interesting
to compare it with the equally good but different 1994 and 1995
versions. A deep red colour with a bricking rim. Appealing and
expressive 'southern' nose with a pronounced edge. It's only a touch
volatile; otherwise it's remarkably clean. The palate is firm and
tannic, with some warm, spicy character. Complex and elegant, this is
delicious stuff, with potentially a long life ahead of it. It reminds
me of a solid Châteauneuf du Pape in character. Very good/excellent
(£12.50 La Vigneronne, Handford)