Six vintage Champagnes

Six interesting vintage Champagnes from the 1995 and 1996 vintages, tasted at the Champagne Information Bureau in London. My favourites were the Bollinger and Gosset. The 1996 vintage, which is still in the marketplace, is being hailed as an exceptional vintage.

Champagne Bollinger Grande Année Brut 1995
Quite a serious savoury nose: full on with lots of bready, toasty, buiscuitty richness. The palate is rich and concentrated with rounded, full savoury character and some woody notes. Quite rich with good supporting acidity and a long finish. Excellent (Ł45.99 contact Metzendorff for stockists, 0207 840 3600)

Champagne Deutz Brut Vintage 1995
Refined yeasty, toasty nose leads to a firm, savoury palate which has firm acidity. Quite structured: a big wine. Lots of character here. Very good/excellent (Ł26.99 Berkmann Wine Cellars)

Champagne Roderer Brut Vintage 1995
Firm, slightly salty-edged nose which is elegant and perfumed, with a subtle toastiness. The palate is rich, spicy and with high acidity. Quite a lean, racy style with nice savoury character. Very good/excellent (stockist’s details from MMD Ltd, 0208 332 2223)

Champagne Lanson Gold Label Brut 1996
Slightly herby nose is a little muted. This is firm and almost austere with its high acidity. Very tight. Very good+ (Safeway, Waitrose Ł27.99)

Champagne Gosset Grand Millésimé Brut Vintage 1996
Fresh, tight nose with subtle savoury biscuitty notes. Vivid high acid palate is quite challenging at the moment with just a hint of toasty complexity. Very youthful with good acidity: this is a serious style with potential. I’d cellar this one for a few years. Very good/excellent (Ł39.95 Harrods, Selfridges)

Champagne Duval Leroy Brut Vintage 1996
Tight, savoury herbal nose. Focused palate with firm acidity and a savoury character. Very firm and slightly closed at the moment, but some potential for development. Very good+ (Ł19.99 Sainsbury)

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