Reliable, independent buying advice from the wine anorak
October 2002

Wines under £8 | Wines over £8

Previous months' recommendations:  September 2001 | October 2001 | November 2001 | December 2001 | January 2002 | February 2002 | March 2002 | April 2002 | May 2002 | June 2002 | July 2002 | August 2002 | September 2002

My rating system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com to locate a stockist in your area. 

Bargain picks

Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2001, Mosel Saar Ruwer
I’m sneaking this lovely Mosel Riesling into the bargain picks section, even though it’s usually a more expensive wine, because Bentalls are selling it for the excellent price of £7.49. The restrained, smoky nose is quite minerally and spicy, but initially shows a blast of sulfur. The palate is richly textured and quite mineralic, with zingy acidity and lots of spicy character. There’s a little sweetness, which adds roundness and smoothness to the texture. A concentrated, rich wine but still very youthful, so give it a few years to start to perform properly. Very good/excellent (£7.49 Bentalls; Noel Young also stock this)

Fairview Goats do Roam 2001, South Africa
I’ve previously recommended the 2000 vintage of this brilliantly successful red blend, and the 2001 is equally good. A vivid red/purple colour, attractive ripe, sweet raspberry fruit dominates, but there’s also some savoury, meaty complexity. Good acidity and not at all confected, this has to be one of the very best reds available at this price point. Very good+ (£4.99 Tesco, Majestic, Oddbins and others)

Firestone Chardonnay 2000 Santa Barbara County, California
This is remarkably cheap for an estate-bottled  Chardonnay from one of California's most interesting wine regions. Savoury, classy nose showing grapefruit, pineapple and mango with a savoury leanness to it. The palate shows good concentration and is nicely restrained with smoky notes backing up taut lemony fruit. Really nice weight and structure, and good acidity too. Avoids being fat or blowsy. Very good+ (£4.99 Waitrose)

Wines over £8

Fairview Goat Roti 2001 Paarl, South Africa
If you like Fairview's Goats do Roam, then you'll love this supercharged sibling, with an equally witty pun of a name. Delicious savoury, medicinal edge to the nose which displays warm herbal flavours. Lovely savoury palate is nicely dense with complex berry fruit flavours and an attractive hebal savouriness. Spicy finish. Very good/excellent (£8.99 Oddbins, Western Wine Co.)

Warwick Estate Three Cape Ladies 1998, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Continuing the rather South African theme to this month's recommendations, this is a blend of Pinotage (25%), Merlot (35%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), first made by Warwick in 1997. 1200 cases produced. The nose shows lovely chalky-edged berry fruit with a slightly spicy, meaty edge. Lovely tight spicy palate with juicy berry fruit: quite structured but tasty. Extremely appealing. Very good/excellent (check availability with UK agents Louis Jadot)

Morgenhof Merlot 1999, Stellenbosch, South Africa
I'm a fan of the Morgenhof wines (if you can't find this Merlot the Cabernet Sauvignon is equally impressive). Very deep coloured, with a stunning nose of savoury, leafy fruit showing a mineralic, cedar-like edge. The concentrated herby palate is nicely savoury. Very good/excellent (£11.99 Handford; £10.99 Noel Young)

Macrostie Chardonnay 1999 Carneros, California
Nicely packaged, this classy Californian Chardonnay has a seductive, powerful nose of sweet peach and mango fruit. It’s intense, and the new French oak is very much in the background. The palate is very rich and tropical fruit-driven with some spicy complexity. Highly concentrated but quite elegant. Sophisticated. Very good/excellent (£17.50 Wannop Wines, tel. 01356 647318)

Barbeito ‘Single Harvest’ Madeira Tinta Negra Mole 1995
Tinta Negra Mole is traditionally a bulk Madeira grape variety, but Barbeito are trying to show that it’s possible to produce interesting wines from it. This example is cask matured and displays a wonderfully complex nose with spice, vanilla and caramel notes. The palate is medium sweet with a lovely texture and huge spicy, rich complexity. Quite wonderful, and a great introduction to the charms of decent Madeira. Excellent (£13.95 for 50 cl; new to the UK market, so contact agents Raymond Reynolds for stockists)  

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk