Reliable, independent buying advice from the wine anorak
February 2003

Wines under £8 | Wines over £8

Previous months' recommendations: January 2002 | February 2002 | March 2002 | April 2002 | May 2002 | June 2002 | July 2002 | August 2002 | September 2002 | October 2002 | November 2002 | December 2002 | January 2003

My rating system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com to locate a stockist in your area. 

Bargain picks

Château de la Fessadière Muscadet 2001, Loire
Tired of taste-alike Chardonnays and one-dimensional Sauvignons?  Try this organic Loire white for something completely different. Supermarket Muscadet has a (mostly deserved) reputation for being thin and tart, but this example packs a good concentration of limey, herby, minerally flavour. With high acidity, this is a little challenging but ultimately very rewarding. Great value for money. Very good/excellent (Sainsbury £4.99)

Budai Sauvignon Blanc 2001, Hungary
With a forward, rounded grassy nose, this well made Sauvignon Blanc packs a fair punch of gooseberry fruit and would give many higher priced examples from New Zealand a good run for their money. Well made, this fresh dry white is much better than you’d expect for the price. Very good+ (Sainsbury £3.99)

Domaine Plantade Syrah Merlot 2001 Vin de Pays d’Oc
A brilliant cheapie. Very appealing with good definition to the spicy edged berry fruit, together with some chalky leafy structure. Very good+ (Majestic £4.49, but currently only £3.82 if you buy any six Languedoc wines)

Anubis Malbec 2001, Mendoza, Argentina
From old vines with an average age of 60 years, this Malbec is aged in new French and American oak barrels. The nose is appealing and modern, with forward spicy, berry fruit. The palate shows a good concentration of vivid, herb-tinged fruit with rich oak and good acidity. Quite a bit of interest here. Very good/excellent (Waitrose £5.99)  

Dourosa 2001, Douro, Portugal
Developed by Waitrose and Sophia Bergqvist at Quinta de la Rosa, part of this blend is aged in barrel, but most sees no wood. Really appealing nose with ripe, inky, liquoricey fruit. The palate shows lovely herbal fruit characters with plenty of Douro personality. Ripe and tasty. Very good+ (Waitrose £6.99, on offer this month for £5.99)

Wines over £8

Château La Roque Cuvée les Vieilles Vignes de Mourvèdre 2000 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St Loup
Deeply impressive varietal Mourvèdre from leading Languedoc commune Pic St Loup. Open, almost stern nose is savoury and intensely spicy with a meaty edge that makes me think of the Northern Rhône. The palate is firm, tannic and spicy with huge structure and nice acidity. It avoids being austere: there’s enough ripeness to prevent this. The spiciness and structure is typical of Mourvèdre, together with a slight meaty character that is very appealing. Brilliant but quite challenging; needs food. Very good/excellent (Tanners £8.95)  

Lanzerac Classic 2000, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Matured for 15 months in new French oak barrels, this is quite brilliant, in a modern style. Very striking, intense nose displaying complex liquorice and menthol notes together with vivid ripe fruit. The palate is rich, bold and intense; dense and modern with ripe fruit and firm tannins. Hugely satisfying and intense. Very good/excellent (Waitrose £11.99)  

Domaine Denuziller Pouilly Fuissé ‘Le Clos’ 2000, Burgundy
Up until 2 years ago, all the wine from the Denuziller's vines had been sold in cask to local negociants. Since then Gilles and Joël have been bottling some themselves, and the results are impressive. Quite a refined nutty nose with bright lemony, appley and herbal fruit. Creamy and quite classy. Taut, savoury palate is clean, crisp and minerally with good balance. Nice nutty texture. An impressive, classically styled white Burgundy. Very good/excellent (Berry Bros & Rudd £12.75)

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk