Part
6
The modern retailing environment
Wine, in its traditional guise, doesn’t sit well with the
modern retail environment. At its heart, wine is an agricultural
product, not a manufactured one. And with wine, small is usually
better. To the big retailer, this is a bad thing. The way the modern
multi-outlet branded/franchised shop is configured, continuity of
supply and economies of scale are hugely important. You don’t get
this with wine: vintage variation – at times a frustrating reality,
but one which adds an extra level of interest – and typically the
limited production of each producer mean that wine is not an easy
product to deal with. It usually comes in small parcels, and the
production level changes each year.
Modern retailing is big business. There is no longer any room
for small players, unless they can find some niche too small to
interest the multiples. To survive in the modern retailing environment
you need to be big, highly visible, and with lots of outlets.
Effective marketing in this modern environment is an expensive
business and you can only really make use of it if you are a big
player. This automatically rules out almost all estate wines, leaving
the floor open to the brands.
Consider the lot of a wine producer looking to break into the
UK market. With 75% of wine sales in the UK going through
supermarkets, you might want to target them first. So you approach the
supermarket buyers. If you are from a relatively unfashionable country
like Portugal, you’ll probably be talking to a 22 year old junior
buyer fresh out of college who has, perhaps, two slots to fill at a £3.99–4.99
price point. They want serious volumes, a fresh, fruity style, and the
cheaper the better. If you are from Australia, you may have better
luck, but the volumes required will be huge and the price points will
be very keen. Even at the higher price points, the continuity of
supply and volume issues favour the branders very heavily. If you are
selling wine from recognized appellations such as Chablis or St
Emilion, then the buyers will be looking for the best Chablis at the
entry-level price point for this wine, effectively ruling out the
estate wines here also. A supermarket would much rather have a vaguely
palatable Chablis at £5.99 – which will fly out of the door –
than a really good one at £8.99. That’s life.
If you are producing an estate wine, then these
considerations mean you’ll probably be restricted to the specialist
wine merchants and high street chains. The commercial pressure towards
the creation of more branded wines, even from the classical wine
producing countries, is therefore huge. The tragedy is that there is
little room left in the market for the genuine article: wines made by
small, family-owned producers. Big companies rarely make interesting
wine, because they are dealing with large volumes and they have to
pitch their style to appeal to the average drinker. They can’t
afford to take risks by making wines with ‘edges’. The result? All
widely commercially available wines are beginning to taste the same.
The illusion of choice
Supermarkets and other multiple outlets don’t like dealing with
the diversity and complexity of wine, but they are quite attached to
the ‘idea’ of diversity. So typically they will stock hundreds of
different lines, giving the shopper the impression of a broad
portfolio of wines. The problem here is that this diversity is
actually an illusory one. The wines are almost always industrially
produced, in large quantities, and to a formula. It makes life a
little easier for the supermarket critics, because they can
effectively do their job just by picking wines more-or-less at random.
But while customers now experience far less risk of picking a bad
bottle, they also have far less chance of picking a wine that is at
all interesting. The buyers are convinced that all the punters want
are modern, clean, fruity wines without too much acid or tannin, but
will they grow bored with the homogeneity of style? Encouragingly,
I’ve had non-wine-geek friends confide in me that they are troubled
by the way that wines all seem to taste the same these days.
My hope is that the buyers and the wine drinking public will
come to their senses and see that while uniform (high) quality is
desirable, a uniformity of style is disastrous. Branded wines, with
their manufactured, processed character and lack of connection with
the soil can’t be the way forward. Worst of all, their growing
dominance of the marketplace threatens the very existence of the
genuine article, estate wines.
See also
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November 2002
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