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tasting
notes
Languedoc-Roussillon
(Prices and stockists in the UK are listed in brackets;
as a rough guide £1 = US$1.50. Date of tasting is indicated by month/year at the end of
the note.)
See also featured producers:
- Alquier, Faugeres
- Terre
Inconnue, Languedoc
- Mas l'Ecriture,
Languedoc
- Mas
Bruguière, Pic St Loup
- Domaine de
l'Hortus, Pic St Loup
- Gerard Bertrand,
Languedoc
- Château La Roque,
Pic St Loup
- Mas de Daumas
Gassac, Languedoc
- Domaine
Du Baruel, Cevennes
- Clot de l'Oum,
Roussillon
- Domaine
de Saumarez
- Chateau
Coupe-Roses, Minervois
- Moulin
de Ciffre, Faugeres
- Domaine de la
Marfée (Thierry Hasard), Languedoc
-
Domaine Font Caude, Languedoc
- Val d'Orbieu, Midi
- Skalli, Languedoc
and Corsica
- Leading
Languedoc wines: 36 of the best tasted and rated
- 2001 in the
Languedoc-Roussillon, tasting 30 of the top wines
See
my blog entries on Languedoc
and Roussillon
Laurent
Miquel Cazal Viel Cuvée des Fées 2007 Languedoc, France
13% alcohol. Lovely aromatics here: sweet, ripe and full with a hint
of meatiness. Lovely aromatics and a hint of floral character, as well
as red berries and plum. The palate is juicy and bright with nicely
poised ripe meaty red fruits. Deliciously drinkable with real
personality, and not at all forced. 89/100 (£8.99 Majestic) 09/09
Matassa
Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes, France
13% alcohol. 70% Grenache Gris, 30% Maccabeu. This is a serious,
complex, backward wine that’s a bit of an acquired taste, but which I
think is brilliant. It has a smoky, minerally, almost salty nose with
some nuttiness and a bit of burnt match reduction. The palate is dry,
savoury and intensely mineral with a long, nutty, broad finish. There’s
real focus and intensity to this wine: it’s not at all fat. Just
delicious, and all set for an interesting evolution over the next 5–10
years. 93/100 (Les Caves de Pyrene) 07/09
Cave de Roquebrun
Roches Noires 2006 Saint Chinian
Varietal breakdown: 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre.
This has a nose of ripe red fruits with a pronounced roast
coffee and cured meat character. The palate shows good concentration and
a bit of spiciness, with some grippy tannic structure under the plum and
cherry fruit. A solid effort. 85/100 (£7.95 Tesco; 13% alcohol) 02/09
Domaine
de la Grange des Pères 1996 Vin de Pays de l’Herault, France
Probably
the top wine from the South of France, and it’s great to get a chance
to see how this ages. The answer is, pretty well. This has a complex,
aromatic, spicy nose with lovely sweet, dusty aromatics. The palate is
super-elegant with lovely earthy spiciness and nice acidity. Expressive,
spicy and bright. 93/100 (£55 The Sampler) 12/08
Michel
& Pomplia Guiraud ‘Terre Promise’ 2005 AOC St Chinian Roquebrun,
Languedoc, France
Two-thirds Syrah, and one-third 80 year old Carignan. This is quite
serious stuff. The nose is fresh and well defined with elegant raspberry
and sweet plummy fruit, together with some well integrated spicy oak.
The is savoury and focused with a peppery, spicy edge to the taut dark
fruit character. There’s a hint of the northern Rhône here, and it
finishes with some tannic grip. A really solid effort that will repay a
few more years in the cellar. 90/100 (The Real Wine Company, www.therealwineco.co.uk
£13) 11/08
Gerard
Bertrand Aigle Noir Chardonnay 2006 Sud de France
Rich, fat, toasty and buttery with a distinct nuttiness. Tasty in
its style, but drink up. 82/100 (£7.99 M&S; 13%) 01/09
Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Viognier 2006 South of France
Fat, melony and peachy with lovely sweet, pure fruit and a soft texture.
A broady, generous wine. 85/100 (13.5% alcohol; Tesco) 01/09
Les Foulards
Rouges 'La Soif du Mal' Vin de Table de France (NV)
No vintage declared (although the code 'L06' on the label
indicates one), this light coloured red is utterly delicious and very
drinkable. It has aromas of sweet cherry fruit with a sappy edge and
lively purity, countered by an earthy, spicy note. The palate is bright
and supple with a spicy, herby character that I often get in natural
wines, as well as fresh, rather savoury cherry fruit. Think somewhere
between new Zealand Pinot Noir and a deliciously fresh Gamay from the
Beaujolais, and you've got something of the character of this wine. It's
light, fragrant and aromatic. 13.5% alcohol, but it tastes lighter than
this. This is remarkable, considering that this wine is a 70/30
Syrah/Grenache blend from the Roussillon. 'Soif du Mal' translates, I
guess, as a wicked thirst, and this is the sort of wine that will
certainly satisfy a thirst. 91/100 (UK agent: Les Caves de Pyrene) 12/08
Gerard Bertrand
Cigalus 2007 Vin de Pays d'Oc, France
75% Chardonnay, 20% Viognier and 5% Sauvignon Blanc,
two-thirds of which is fermented and aged in new oak. It's a really
refined wine that shows great balance between the lush, rounded, opulent
Viognier and Chardonnay characters, and an innate sort of fruity
freshness, which keeps it from being at all heavy. It's even a bit
floral. The oak is really well integrated, just supplying a little
vanilla spice and subtle breadiness. Overall, it's a really refined,
modern wine of real poise, and the Viognier is adding something
distinctive to it. 91/100 (Oddbins) 01/09
Domaine La Combe Blanche 'Le Blanc' 2000 Vin de Pays
des Cotes de Brian, France
A blend of Roussanne and Viognier aged in barrel for 12 months. Yellow/gold
in colour this is very smooth, with a fruity sweet pear nose that also
has complex notes of mandarin, fennel and apricot. The palate shows
warm, sweet fruit with a crystalline fruits richness and some hints of
nuts and peach. Broad, smooth and quite complex, with freshness as well
as richness. Just lovely. 92/100 (£9.75 Leon Stolarski) 10/08
Grand Lauze Ledogar Vin de Table Francais
The Roman 'IV' on the label indicates this is from the 2004 vintage. This is
one of those wines that ended up being rejected by the local Appellation
authorization committee (in this case for Corbieres) for being
'atypical', hence the Vin de Table status. It's actually pretty serious:
a blend of 12 barrels, 8 of which are 100-year old Carignan, 2 Mourvedre,
1 Grenache and 1 Syrah. All organically grown, with some biodynamic
practices. Deep coloured, this has a tight, dense, slightly reductive
nose showing spicy dark fruits. The palate is intense and concentrated
with fresh, savoury, spicy dark fruits with firm tannins and attractive,
minerally complexity. It's a pure, focused, youthful wine of real impact
that needs time to show its best. Old vine Carignan at its best - not
the easiest wine to 'get', but pretty serious. 91/100 (£15 http://www.therealwineco.co.uk/)
10/08
Domaine des
Foulards Rouge Cuvee Octobre [2008] Vin de Table
A young wine from the Roussillon, this is amazingly fresh
and bright, with sweet, pure, sappy cherry and berry fruit. Vibrant and
joyful this is superbly drinkable with lovely purity and freshness.
89/100 (£6 glass; £23.50 bottle)
Monty's French Red 2007 Vin de Pays des Cotes
Catalanes, France
Lovely spicy, earthy edge to the fruit on the nose - quite savoury with some
tarry notes. The palate is savoury and has an earthy undercurrent to the
fruit, which is bright and expressive. A lovely wine, made in a style I
really love. 90/100 (£7.99 Adnams)
09/08
La Baume 'La Grande Olivette' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Vin de Pays d'Oc, France
Beautifully packaged in a deeply punted bottle, this is a serious Sauvignon
Blanc. The nose shows lots of rich, almost pungent gooseberry and
passion fruit (technically, this is a thiol-rich style, and it's almost
sweaty), together with some green pepper notes. The palate is
concentrated and intense with richness combining nicely with grassy
freshness. Stylish stuff. 90/100 (£6.99 Waitrose) 05/08
Domaine Treloar Three Peaks 2006 Cotes du Roussillon,
France
This attractive southern French red is the inaugural vintage from this producer,
a Kiwi-English collaboration farming just 10 hectares in the Roussillon.
It's a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. A concentrated wine with
sweet-yet-focused red and black fruits with a spicy lift. There's a
distinctly savoury, spicy quality to this wine which has enough tannin
and acidity to keep it quite fresh. Finishes distinctly savoury and
quite grippy. A food-friendly style that may develop nicely over the
next few years. 90/100 (£10.25 Leon
Stolarski) 07/08
Mont Tauch 'Retro' Fitou 2006 Languedoc, France
Light, with savoury, spicy, slightly earthy cherry and berry fruit, as well
as just a hint of that wild herb complexity known as 'garrigue'. A
versatile, drinkable red with a sense of place to it. 83/100 (£5.99
Tesco) 07/08
Clos
Fantine Faugères 2004 Languedoc, France
From schistose vineyards, in which no chemicals were used except for
a bit of sulfur for the Carignan. SO2
just used a little at bottling. Elegant, fine red fruits nose with some
spice and earth notes. The palate is smooth with lovely texture and
earthy, spicy notes under the bright fruits. Lovely.
90/100 05/08
Domaine des Marquises Lou Carignan 2007 Vin de Pays de
l’Herault, France
Pure red fruits nose with forward cherry fruit. The palate is pure with lovely vibrant vfruit and nice
freshness. A joyful wine. 89/100 05/08
Cuvée Cariña Coste Longue Vin de Table NV France
Made by Pierrette and Claude Navare from St Chinian terroir, by
maceration carbonique. Very
aromatic open, perfumed nose with floral red fruits and a bit of
meatiness. The palate is quite dense with an open, fruity, meaty
character and an earthy, spicy finish. Quite elegant in an oxidative
style. 90/100 05/08
La Chasse du Pape Chardonnay 'Unoaked' 2007 Vin de
Pays d'Oc, France
Attractive broad, fruity nose. It's quite rich with melon, apple and
pear. The palate is fresh and nicely fruity, with a really approachable
sort of personality. What it lacks in depth, it makes up for in charm.
Impressive commercial winemaking. 86/100 07/08
Domaine Mas Viel Pinot Noir 2006 Vin de Pays d'Oc,
France
Sealed with ProCork, a natural cork with a special membrane attached to each
chamfered end, to prevent any risk of TCA transmission from the cork to
the wine: I haven't seen many of these around. It has a ripe, forward
sweet berry fruit nose that's richer than you'd expect from Pinot. Quite
dense on the palate with some firm tannins, ripe fruit and a herby tang,
together with some sweet vanilla oak notes. It's attractive, in a flirty
sort of way, but this doesn't really taste like Pinot. Still, it's quite
cheap, and I suspect that if it was from Chile or California, it would
have its fans. 81/100 (£6.95 http://www.therealwineco.co.uk/)
03/08
Vendanges d'Automne Muscat de Saint Jean de
Minervois NV, France
Golden colour with some brown hints. Rich and quite viscous with notes of
baked apple, dried apricot and organge peel, as well as some tea-like
complexity. Very sweet, with a bit of spice on the finish. A satisfying,
thought-provoking wine. 89/100 (Co-op £11.99/50 cl) 07/08
Chateau Paul Mas 'Les Dons' Vinus 2005 Coteaux du
Languedoc, France
A Shiraz/Grenache blend from 40 year old vines on clay and lime soils, with
a bit of maritime influence, this is sleek and sophisticated.
Harmonious, smooth red and black fruits combine with fine-grained
tannins and fresh acidity to make a very stylish, modern red wine of
real appeal. Warm climate elegance here. 89/100
07/08
Domaine Treloar ‘Tahi’ 2006 Côtes du Roussillon
The top wine from this domaine, who advocate the use of sustainable
viticulture. It’s a big old wine, made with a fair dollop of new oak,
but there’s more than enough fruit to deal with it. Tight, dark,
concentrated and quite tannic, this could do with a few years to become
more approachable and is potentially very long-lived. Ripe dark fruits
dominate, with a subtly roasted coffee oak edge and a bit of plummy
bitterness on the finish. There’s a lot going for this wine, but it’s
pretty tannic and full-on at the moment, and the tannins overpower the
finish. I’d be fascinated to see how this wine will taste in a decade:
I reckon it will be pretty serious. 93/100 (£16.50 Leon Stolarski here)
04/08
Domaine
Treloar One Block Grenache 2006 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
This is quite a big wine, with sweet, lush, almost jammy blackberry
and raspberry fruit, coupled with some spicy tannic structure. Good depth
of flavour and ample fruit expression here: a satisfying, warm, food
friendly wine. 89/100 (Leo Stolarski) 04/08
Domaine
Treloar 'Tahi' 2006 Côtes du Roussillon, France
The top wine from this domaine, who advocate the use of sustainable
viticulture. It's a big old wine, made with a fair dollop of new oak,
but there's more than enough fruit to deal with it. Tight, dark,
concentrated and quite tannic, this could do with a few years to become
more approachable and is potentially very long-lived. Ripe dark fruits
dominate, with a subtly roasted coffee oak edge and a bit of plummy
bitterness on the finish. There's a lot going for this wine, but it's pretty tannic and full-on at the moment, and the tannins overpower the
finish. I'd be fascinated to see how this wine will taste in a decade:
I reckon it will be pretty serious. 93/100 (£16.50 Leon Stolarski)
04/08
Domaine
la Terrasse d’Elise ‘Le Pradel’ 2004 Coteaux du Languedoc, France
This varietal
Cinsault, made in a non-interventionist style, is wonderful stuff. The
nose has that purity and focus that I find in many ‘natural’ wines:
there’s brooding, sweet, pure red berry and cherry fruit, with cedary,
subtly fudgey, tarry warmth and a bit of sweet spice. The palate is
elegant and smooth with lovely rich texture and pure, spicy red fruits.
There’s just a hint of undergrowth, which adds complexity but never
threatens to obscure the pure, sweet fruit. Complex, understated and
balanced, this is a really assured wine. Beautiful stuff. 93/100 (Les
Caves de Pyrene) 04/08
Duo
Mythique Syrah Grenache 2006 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
This is what the South of France does so well. It’s a bright, rather
peppery red with sweet fruit bolstered by some pleasantly grippy tannins.
Generous and spicy, with a nice savouriness. Good value for money. 84/100
(£4.99 Co-op) 04/08
Marks
& Spencer Old Vines Grenache Noir 2006 Vin de Pays des Côtes
Catalanes, France
This Roussillon
Grenache weighs in at 14.5% alcohol, but this is a variety that handles
high alcohol pretty well. There’s some sweetness to the blackberry and
red berry fruit palate, but there’s also some firm, savoury tannin.
Finishes with a bit of chocolatey richness. Attractive but not
‘obvious’. 84/100 (£5.49 Marks & Spencer) 04/08
Christophe Barbier Les Terres Salées 2005
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Perpignan, France
An old vine Bourboulenc, this is a real treat. There’s apple crumble
and honey character, coupled with a touch of vanilla oak, but also some
waxy savouriness and a lovely minerally, burnt match reductive note.
Indeed, it’s the distinctive reductive character that really frames this
wine, and suggests to me that this could age very nicely for five years to
a decade. With its savoury complexity, it is not for everyone, but I
really like it. 91/100 (£10.99 Averys – the 2004 is £15 in Waitrose)
10/07
Domaine Saparale 2006 Corse Sartene, France
From the island of Corsica, this is a varietal Vermentino from Philippe
Farinelli's 100 acre estate. It's vibrant, floral and minerally, but with
a rounded weighty depth to the palate. I like the contrast between the
steely, lemony notes and the richer, peachy, almost nutty characters in
the background. Mineralic, full flavoured and quite pure: a lovely wine.
91/100 (Yapp £8.95) 10/07
Chateau Guiot 2006 Costieres de Nimes, France
From the south of France, and more specifically a 75 hectare property south
of Nimes planted mainly to Grenache and Syrah. This is really good. It's a
boisterous young red with lovely fresh peppery, slightly meaty dark fruits
on the nose. In the mouth the peppery, spicy fruit dominates, and is
complemented by firm, grippy tannins and good acidity, making this a
vibrant, savoury sort of red that's really versatile at the table. Lovely
purity and focus, and the concentration and vibrancy to put many £10
wines to shame. 88/100 (£5.99 Majestic) 10/07
Le Moulin des Nonnes Cuvee Ines Blanc 2003 Minervois, Languedoc, France
A blend of 50% Roussanne,
40% Grenache Blanc and 10% Muscat a Petits Grains; organically grown
grapes. A deep colour, this has a beguiling minerality to the ripe, melony
fruit. It's from a hot year, but it combines ripeness with a lovely
mineralic freshness, with the result that it's a fat wine walking the line
of overripeness but just staying on the right side. You've got to be in
the mood for this sort of white, which with its declared 14% alcohol packs
a bit of a punch, but it does it very well - creditably, the oak is barely
noticeable, which allows the fruit the spotlight. It's the beatifully
perfumed nose that wins it for me. Very good/excellent 90/100 (Les Caves
de Pyrene) 01/07
La Difference Carignan 2005 Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, France
A brilliant cheapie, with lots of personality, from the oft-maligned
Carignan grape - which these days is being treated a bit more seriously by
some winemakers. It's quite robust and structured, yet at the same time is
made in a modern fruity style. There's some dense, spicy fruit with a
fresh peppery character and a bit of cured meat richness. It's finished
off with fresh acidity. It's not a wine that demands to be taken
seriously, but along with the joyful fruit, there's far more seriousness
than the price tag would suggest. It's a cheap wine that would satisfy
people who understand and like wine. Very good+ 85/100 (Sainsbury £4.99)
01/07
Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Syrah Grenache Rosé 2006 Vin
de Pays d’Oc, France
A crisp, dry style of rosé that’s a pleasant light
pink colour and has herb-tinged berryish fruit. Good balance and quite
food friendly – it’s not at all heavy or forced. 84/100 (£6.99 Tesco)
01/08
La Cuvée Mythique 2005 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
A blended red made from the selected produce of 55
different growers, including grape varities such as Carignan, Syrah,
Grenache and Mourvèdre. It has a dark, savoury, spicy nose with some
richness to the fruit. The palate is earthy and spicy, with dark fruits
and some well integrated oak. The result is a very drinkable, warm spicy
red that’s highly food compatible. 87/100 (£6.99 Co-op, but on offer at
£4.99 18 Feb–4 Mar 2008) 01/08
Domaine
Rizière Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
Very bright and lean
with crisp green apple fruit and a taut herbiness. It’s a bit short and
ungenerous, but the high acid, fresh style might make it a useful food
match. 80/100 (£5.49 Averys) 02/08
Domaine
Pouderoux Maury Hors d’Age NV, Roussillon, France
Lovely sweet open, herb-tinged, sweetly spiced nose, which is a bit
Port-like. The palate is quite concentrated and spicy, with powerful,
sweet, rich flavours and a casky edge. Lovely vivid fruit showing nice
definition, good acid and spicy tannins. Very good/excellent 93/100 02/06
Château Saint-Jacques d’Albas 2002 Minervois, France
Lovely savoury, spicy nose: quite fresh and distinctive with a
pungent, almost medicinal edge to it and some earthy undertones. There’s
a hint of menthol. The palate is savoury and full with fresh spicy fruit.
Lots of flavour here and a nice savoury character. Very good+ 88/100 (£8.35
Goedhuis) 08/06
Laroche Rosé de la Chevalière 2005 Vin de Pays d’Oc,
France
Nice light pink colour. It’s a delicious fruity rosé with a grippy savoury
twist to the focused bright fruit. There’s a hint of herbiness.
Brilliantly balanced. Very good 84/100 (Bibendum) 08/06
La
Côtes des Pins 2004 Faugères, Languedoc, France
Good colour with a meaty spicy edge to the dark fruits nose. Good
density of savoury black fruits on the palate with a bit of grippy tannin.
Spicy finish – a nice drinkable fruit forward wine that offers great
value. Very good+ 86/100 (£6.24 Majestic) 07/06
Vaquer
Post Scriptum 1995 Rivesaltes Vin Doux Naturel
From a half bottle. Slightly cloudy red/brown colour. Warm, sweet ripe
spicy nose with vanilla, spice, nuttiness and some raisins. The palate is
soft, rich, spicy and sweet with nice casky complexity. A nicely balanced
sweet wine. Very good/excellent 90/100 (Grand Cru Wines) 12/05
Abbe
Rous Banyuls Rimage 2003 Roussillon, France
Made from Grenache Noir grown in schist soils. This has a lovely
complex, sweet, spicy, earthy minerally nose with wonderful Grenache fruit
and spicy complexity. The palate shows good spicy structure and red
fruits. Lots of personality, and quite Port-like. Very good/excellent
91/100 12/05
Domaine
Piétri-Geraud Banyuls Cuvée Joseph Geraud 1997 Roussillon, France
Smooth, sweet, dark casky nose with a nice earthy spiciness. The
palate is very smooth and rounded with sweet red fruits and a savoury,
spicy bit. This combines the warmth of old wood with sweet fruit very
effectively: it’s like a youthful tawny Port. A thoughtful, late-evening
sort of wine. Very good+ 89/100 (UK importer Fields Morris Verdin) 01/06
Mas Amiel Carerades 2003 Côtes du Roussillon Villages,
France
A bruiser of a wine. Concentrated
purple colour. It has a perfumed nose of savoury dark fruits with a
liqueur-like edge and some spiciness. The palate shows concentrated sweet
dark fruits with a chocolatey edge. Lovely pure fruit, and then almost
brutal tannic structure. Finishes quite earth: wild, but enjoyable. Very
good/excellent 90/100 12/05
Le Freak Shiraz
Viognier 2005 Vin de Pays d’Oc
One of the new wave of commercially astute brands from France, this red is
a blend of Shiraz with 15% white grape Viognier. The nose shows gently
perfumed smooth, sweet blackberry and raspberry fruit, which leads to a
palate that has a spicy, savoury kick to the otherwise restrained and
quite classy fruit. There’s a bit of subtle meaty warmth, too. The
overall result is a rich but refined wine that punches above its weight.
Very good+ 87/100 (£5.99
Co-op, Thresher) 09/06
La
Jasse Castel ‘La Jasse’ 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux, France
Bright earthy spicy nose with a distinctive peppery edge. The palate
shows some sweet red berry fruit with earthy tannins providing the
structure. Not a bad effort for the vintage: savoury and very earthy.
Needs food. Very good+ 88/100 08/06
Mas
de Daumas Gassac 1996 Languedoc, France
Herby, spicy, earthy, evolved nose with a touch of Cabernet greenness
to the fruit. The palate is spicy and quite earthy, but nicely expressive.
Drinking nicely. Very good+ 88/100 02/06
Paul
Mas Estate Syrah 2004 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
Really
nicely packaged in a grand bottle. This is a lovely savoury, peppery red
with a hint of seriousness. Above all, it’s an honest wine. Smooth,
sweet red and black fruits dominate, and on the palate there’s an earthy
undercurrent to the fruit with some fresh pepperiness. Shouts ‘terroir’.
Very good+ 88/100 (£6.99 Somerfield) 12/05
Paul
Mas Estate Viognier Chardonnay 2004 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
Deep
yellow/gold colour. A rich, honeyed, nutty, apricotty wine with some fresh
fruitiness ofsetting the depth. A big, interesting white in a rich style.
Very good+ 86/100 (£6.99 Somerfield)
12/05
Château
Belles Eaux Fûts de Chêne 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc, France
Not big, sweet and ripe like many Languedoc reds, but rather savoury
and earthy, with gently tannic, quite fresh fruit. Satisfying and earthy
with a distinctive peppery kick to the fruit. Very good+ 88/100 12/05
Château Saint-Jacques d’Albas
2002 Minervois, France
Vintages add a nice layer of complexity to wine. Even less-good
vintages are to be enjoyed because they offer something different. This
has a lovely savoury, spicy nose that is quite fresh and distinctive with
a pungent, almost medicinal edge, earthy undertones and hints of mint and
menthol. The palate is savoury and full with nice fresh spicy fruit. I
enjoy this: lots of flavour and savoury character. Very good+ 88/100 (£8.95
Goedhuis & Co) 08/06
Domaine du Baruel 1995 Vin de Pays des Cevennes,
France
Fresh, bright, spicy, earthy nose with some nice red fruits. The palate is
tannic and spicy, with good acid hemming in the red fruits very
effectively. It has evolved nicely, but it's still fresh, and there's a
lovely earthy complexity emerging. Still pretty tannic, I reckon this is
drinking almost as well as it is going to now, while there's still fruit
to balance the structure. But no need to hurry. Remarkable for a 11 year
old wine from the Languedoc. I'm enjoying this a lot. Very good/excellent
92/100 07/06
Le
Freak Shiraz Viognier 2004 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
A very attractive new wave wine from the south of France, offering
spicy-framed, almost dusty vivid red fruits. A savoury food style with
lots of extraction and nice grippy tannins. Great for the price. Very
good+ 86/100 (£5.99 Coop) 03/06
Château
des Erles Fitou 2003 France
From J&F Lurton. Distinctive savoury, spicy nose is well defined
and fresh, with peppery, meaty red fruits. The palate is midweight with
dry, peppery fruit and some grippy but reasonably elegant tannins.
Finishes dry. An expressive wine that is quite complex, and shows good
restraint. Rather grandly packaged. Very good/excellent 91/100 (rrp £15.95)
03/06
La Flamme Noire des Chandelles Carignan Vieilles Vignes
2001 Vin de Pays de L’Aude
Attractively packaged.
Deep red/purple
colour. Smooth,
rather seamless nose with a liqueur-like edge to the damson, red berry
and blackberry fruit. Hints of garrigue and spice in the background.
The palate shows chewy, spicy fruit with some herbiness but
underpinned by an earthy, spicy character. The plummy bitterness on
the finish isn’t without appeal. Oak influence is cloaked by the
fruit and the tannins are also disguised this way. Very distinctive
and varietally true, this is a thought-provoking wine. Very
good/excellent 91/100 (£9 Purple Wines) 02/05
Chais Suzanne Corbières 1999 Languedoc
Savoury, dusty, earthy nose of spicy, sun-baked rocks. The palate
is earthy and spicy with an evolved savoury character and good
acidity. A mature Languedoc wine with a good sense of place. Great
with a range of foods; drink soon-ish. Very good+ 88/100 (£7 Purple
Wines) 02/05
Chardonnay 2003 Vin de Pays des Côtes de Prouilhe
Quite an interesting fruity, slightly herby nose with a touch of
minerality. Forward fruity palate with subtle nutty, waxy notes and
good acid. Savoury style with some nice freshness. Very good+ 88/100 (£7
Purple Wines) 02/05
La Forge Estate Merlot Vin de Pays d’Oc 2004
France
This comes in a big heavy, show-off sort of bottle, but it’s still
an honest wine. Really rich, vivid, curranty red fruits dominate the nose.
The palate is juicy and vividly fruity with a nice freshness and savoury
quality. Pure fruit is the key here. Very good+ 89/100 (Thresher £7.99,
buy three for the price of two) 11/05
Les Collines du Paradis Minervois 2004 Languedoc,
France
This is another honest, rather earthy wine that in a strange way
tastes of where it comes from. There’s a spicy red fruits perfume,
coupled with smooth, spicy elegance. Sip it, and suddenly you are in the
South of France on a warm summer’s evening. A perfect dinner wine. (£6.99
Tesco) 11/05
Gerard Bertrand La Forge 2001 Corbières, France
The Languedoc used to specialize in making megalitres of wine-lake
plonk, but it’s woken up in recent years and now produces some very fine
wines. This delicious red from ex-Rugby player Gerard Bertrand is a good
example: it’s ripe, with almost Aussie-like sweet fruit, but there’s a
more serious savoury streak, too. (£19.99 Majestic, but £15.99 until the
end of January 2006) 12/05
Matassa Blanc 2003 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes,
France
This is the white partner to the new Roussillon superstar Matassa red,
made by Tom Lubbe and Sam Harrop from old vines (mainly Grenache Gris) on
limestone soil. It has a fantastic nose: smoky, minerally and quite
complex with generous fruit. The palate is broad and dense with a smoky,
minerally edge, good acid and hints of toastiness. Sophisticated and
classy. Very good/excellent 94/100 (Adnams, c £25) 11/04
Les Coteaux des Hautes Garrigues ‘Hameau des Biranques’
Eleve en Futs du Chene 2000 Pic St Loup Coteaux du Languedoc
Lovely open meaty nose with a roasted oaky edge and some bloody meat
notes. The palate is savoury and spicy with good acidity. Complex and full
of interest. Very good/excellent 91/100 (purchased at cellar door, c. £6)
01/04
Le Catalan Grenache Noir 2002 Vin
de Pays des Côtes Catalans, France
Brilliant value, this robust Grenache. Slightly peppery nose shows rich
berry fruits with an earthy edge. The palate is broad, slightly sweet and
has a nicely savoury edge. High alcohol, but Grenache seems to take this
better than most grape varieties. A warm, southern wine. Very good+ 86/100
(£4.99 Thresher) 12/03
Domaine Marcevol Côtes
du Roussillon 2001
From an
organic 12 ha Roussillon domaine, this is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40%
Carignan and 20% Syrah. Smoky, meaty, roasted red fruits on the nose,
which is savoury and intense. The palate is chunky and dense with good
concentration of savoury, spicy fruit with a slightly bitter twist at the
end. Structured and firm, this is quite delicious in a rather stern way.
Very good+ 89/100 03/04
La Cuvée Mythique Blanc 2002 Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
This is a delicious complex white wine from the south of France with
aromas of peach, apricot, vanilla and almonds. The palate is fruity and
nutty with good acidity. Full flavoured and delicious, this even outshines
the very good Cuvée Mythique red that we know and love. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (£6.99 Waitrose) 04/04
Domaine
de Gravillas ‘Vous Voulez En Voilà’ 2003 Vin de Pays des
Côtes de Brian,
Languedoc,
France
This elegantly packaged wine is a blend of Carignan, Syrah and
Cabernet from Nicole and
John Bojanowski in the Languedoc’s Minervois region. It’s a fairly serious, brooding red that needs
some time to show it’s best. The tight, deep nose shows hints of ripe
raspberry and blackberry fruit, with a liquoricey, mineral edge. The
palate is savoury and dense with lots of ripe red fruits cloaked in a
rather minerally, taut structure. It’s got lots of appeal but not in a
forward, showy style: it’s more guarded and beguiling. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (£7.50 Les Caves de Pyrene, www.lescaves.co.uk)
12/04
Château
Cazal Viel Cuvée des Fées 2003
Saint Chinian, Languedoc,
France
Fantastic stuff. A perfumed, open ripe nose shows beguiling notes of
earth, herbs, spice and meat with real savoury warmth. The palate is ripe
and rounded with minerally, spicy fruit. A brilliantly expressive wine for
current drinking and just begging for a steak, roast lamb or even meaty
sausages to accompany it. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£6.79 Waitrose)
10/04
Château
des Cres Ricards Les Hauts de Milesi 2002 Coteaux de Languedoc
Indigo wines
are a new outfit offering an interesting selection of quality southern
French wines to both the trade and private customers. Ch des Cres Ricards
is also new to the UK, and this is a wine showing that the 2002 vintage
wasn't a complete write-off in southern France. It is beautifully
balanced, showing a nicely defined nose of spicy, meaty fruit. The palate
is spicy with good acidity and more of that delicious bloody, meaty fruit.
Very good/excellent 90/100 (£8.75 Indigo Wine, www.indigowine.com)
04/04
Domaine Tourtourel Pic St Loup 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc,
France
Perfumed red fruit nose with some spicy character. The palate shows a
meaty, spicy edge to the red fruits with a savoury finish. It’s quite an
elegant, supple red that manages to capture some of that Pic St Loup
typicity. Very good+ 89/100 (£7.99 Majestic) 02/04
Château de la Negly La Côte 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc,
France
Wonderful stuff: natural winemaking at its best. Slightly hazy in
appearance. Powerful perfumed nose of roast meat, herbs and ripe spicy
fruit. The palate is rich and ripe with a lovely meatiness to the fruit
and lots of garrigue and black olive notes. Nice savoury stuff with good
acidity. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£7.95 Moriarty Vintners, www.moriarty-vintners.com)
02/04
Château Massamier La Mignarde ‘Domus Maximus’ 2000
Minervois La Livinière
Deep coloured, this immediately makes an impression with its nose of ripe,
sweet forest fruits with a spicy, liqueur-like character. The palate is
fruity and ripe with a lovely spicy, liquoricey complexity together with
some chocolatey richness. Great concentration and some elegance too.
There’s an earthiness underpinning all the ripe fruit. An up-front wine
that nicely straddles the old and new world styles, full of appeal. Very
good/excellent 91/100 (£9.95 Berry Bros & Rudd) 02/04
Domaine de Canteperdix Viognier
2001 Vin de Pays de Cassan, France
This is an unusual, characterful white. Deep coloured, it has a striking
perfumed nose with a rich herby depth to it. There's a lovely soft texture
on the concentrated palate, which is nicely poised. Quite brilliant in a
full-flavoured style. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£7.99 Sainsburys.co.uk/wine)
10/03
Domaine des Pensées Sauvages 2000 Corbières, France
Made by English couple Nick and Clare Bradford, this is a wild, dangerous
wine. It has a lovely perfumed nose of smoky, roasted red fruits with
notes of garrigue and a minerally edge. The palate is concentrated and
intensely savoury with a lovely, slightly bitter cherry edge to the herby
fruit. Good acid and a spicy, earthy finish. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£6.95
Berry Bros & Rudd) 02/04
Château Pech Redon La Clape 1999 Coteaux du Langeudoc,
France
Continuing with a Languedoc theme, this red from the thriving La Clape
sub region has a savoury, spicy, herby, slightly animally nose. The palate
is firm and spicy with nice richness of earthy fruit. It’s an attractive
spicy wine. Very good+ 89/100 (£6.49 Majestic) 02/04
Château
des Cres Ricards Les Hauts de Milesi 2002 Coteaux de Languedoc
Indigo wines
are a new outfit offering an interesting selection of quality southern
French wines to both the trade and private customers. Ch des Cres Ricards
is also new to the UK, and this is a wine showing that the 2002 vintage
wasn't a complete write-off in southern France. It is beautifully
balanced, showing a nicely defined nose of spicy, meaty fruit. The palate
is spicy with good acidity and more of that delicious bloody, meaty fruit.
Very good/excellent 90/100 (£8.75 Indigo Wine, www.indigowine.com)
04/04
Domaine Gauby La Soula Blanc 2001 Coteaux des Fenouillèdes,
Roussillon
Gauby is best known for his sought-after, expensive reds,
but this white wine, a blend of Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne,
Rolle and Chenin Blanc grown at altitude, is quite special. The
distinctive nose shows pronounced toasty notes with a herby edge.
Distinctive, powerful palate with toasty oak and rich, herby fruit,
with pronounced acidity. An extreme style, but enjoyable and full of
interest. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£12 Raeburn)
10/03
Domaine Monpertuis
Vignoble de la Ramière Cuvée Counoise 2000 Vin de Pays du Gard, France
The Counoise is a red grape that's often used as a blending component
in Châtrauneuf du Pape but which is rarely seen on its own. I am very
excited by this wine, which shows wonderful personality. It has a slightly
cheesy, meaty, savoury edge on the nose. The palate is dense, spicy, meaty
and savoury with good acidity, and a bold spicy aftertaste. With its firm,
tannic structure it's quite challenging: it's a big, firm wine. (£5.95
Lay & Wheeler) 11/03
Château
Massamier La Mignarde ‘Domus Maximus’ 2000 Minervois La Livinière,
Languedoc, France
Deep
coloured, this immediately makes an impression with its nose of ripe,
sweet forest fruits with a spicy, liqueur-like character. The palate is
fruity and ripe with a lovely spicy, liquoricey complexity together with
some chocolatey richness. Great concentration and some elegance too.
There’s an earthiness underpinning all the ripe fruit. An up-front wine
that nicely straddles the old and new world styles, full of appeal. Very
good/excellent 91 (Berry Bros & Rudd) 02/04
Château de la Negly La Côte 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc,
France
Wonderful stuff: natural winemaking at its best. Slightly hazy in
appearance. Powerful perfumed nose of roast meat, herbs and ripe spicy
fruit. The palate is rich and ripe with a lovely meatiness to the fruit
and lots of garrigue and black olive notes. Nice savoury stuff with good
acidity. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£7.95 Moriarty) 02/04
Banyuls Malterre Vin Doux Naturel, Caves des Producteurs,
Rousillon, France
This co-op Banyuls isn’t bad, and represents a great bargain at
€6. Soft, spicy, slightly earthy nose with some sweetness. The palate is
spicy and sweet and quite balanced, with some tannins and lots of southern
warmth. Very good+ 86/100 08/03
Domaine Tourtourel Pic St Loup 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc,
France
Perfumed red fruit nose with some spicy character. The palate shows a
meaty, spicy edge to the red fruits with a savoury finish. It’s quite an
elegant, supple red that manages to capture some of that Pic St Loup
typicity. Very good+ 89/100 (£7.99 Majestic) 02/04
Domaine des Courtilles 2000 Corbières, France
From a 12.4 ha estate with an average vine age of 40 years. Modern
liquoricey fruit on the nose with some nice vanilla oak notes. Lovely
intensity of savoury fruit on the palate. Very good+ 87/100 (£7.99
Waitrose) 04/03
Les Vieilles Vignes de Château Maris 2001 Minervois,
France
100% old vine Carignan from Bertie Eden’s biodynamic vineyards. Inky
black colour. Rich, spicy, satisfying nose. The palate is dense and chunky
with a mineralic spiciness. A satisfying savoury wine. Very good+ 89/100
04/03
Domaine La Colombette Lledoner Pelut 2000 Vin de Pays de
Coteaux du Libron
This is made from a rare old variant of Grenache and is foot trodden.
Lovely liquoricey, caramelly spicy nose which is soft and intense. The
palate is herby with earthy undertones. Expressive stuff and very
appealing in a southern style. Very good+ 89/100 (£10.99 Waitrose) 04/03
Mas
des Chimères Oeillade 2000 Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Salagou, France
Striking
savoury, cheesy red with pronounced meaty, farmyardy, animally notes
dominating the palate. Good acid, but the stinky, savoury character means
it needs food. Bold and bretty. Very good+ 87/100 (Adnams £6.50) 02/04
Domaine
les Terrasses d’Eole 2001 Côtes du Ventoux, France
A
midweight, simple-yet-pleasant red showing soft, slightly herby, spicy
fruit. Savoury in character. Very good 84/100 (Adnams £5.25) 02/04
Pic St Loup Réserve
2001 Coteaux du Languedoc
Ignore the rather unassuming packaging: from Les Coteaux du Pic, this
is a good introduction to the wines of the Languedoc commune of Pic St
Loup. There are hints of meats and spice to the savoury dark fruit nose.
The palate is smooth and savoury with earthy, spicy fruit. Lots of
typicity in this rather terroir-driven wine. Very good+ 87/100 (£5.99
Thresher) 11/03
Domaine Puydeval 2001
Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
Elegant packaging. Intriguing herby, minerally nose with a waxy edge.
The palate has some interesting herby fruit with a savoury slightly
minerally streak. Sophisticated and appealing. Very good+ (£4.99 Oddbins)
03/03
Domaine
de Lavabre Coteaux du Languedoc 2000 Languedoc, France
Ripe, savoury and spicy with smooth tannic structure. Appealing
southern, warm climate wine. Some minerality. Taut, with some development
ahead of it. Very good+ 87/100 07/03
Domaine du Mas Blanc Collioure ‘Cosprons Levant’ 1995
Roussillon, France
Very distinctive herbal, undergrowthy nose with leathery, slightly
gamey notes. Savoury palate shows dry savoury, herby characters with
drying tannins. Some minerality. Quite a challenging wine with an evolved
character and some complexity. Really needs food. Very good+ 87 06/03
Primo Palatum ‘Classica’ 1999 Vin de Pays d’Oc
A cut-price introduction to the wines of Xavier Copel. Very dark
coloured. Deep, tight herby nose with some smoky, brambly fruit and a hint
of green leafiness. Good concentration on the tight, rather herbal, tannic
palate. A structured, robust wine of savoury appeal. Chewy and tannic this
needs time. It is substantial rather than elegant, but still full of
interest. Very good+ (£5.95 Fortnum & Mason) 09/02
Mas Foulaquier l’Orphée 2001 Pic St Loup Coteaux du
Languedoc
A lovely expressive Pic St Loup, showing a well defined spicy,
leathery berry fruit nose with an appealing earthy, slightly meaty edge.
The palate is savoury with a subtle herby edge to the fruit. Firm tannins
and good acidity. Nicely judged in a more fruit driven style. Very
good/excellent (£8.95 Bentalls) 01/03
Château La Roque Cuvée les Vieilles Vignes de Mourvèdre
2000 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St Loup
Deeply impressive varietal Mourvèdre from leading Languedoc commune Pic
St Loup. Open, almost stern nose is savoury and intensely spicy with a
meaty edge that makes me think of the Northern Rhône. The palate is firm,
tannic and spicy with huge structure and nice acidity. It avoids being
austere: there’s enough ripeness to prevent this. The spiciness and
structure is typical of Mourvèdre, together with a slight meaty character
that is very appealing. Brilliant but quite challenging; needs food. Very
good/excellent (£8.95 Tanners) 08/02
Mas Bruguière L’Arbouse 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St
Loup
Showing its alcohol a little, the nose displays rich, slightly sweet
berry fruit with a meaty, savoury edge. There’s some tannic structure on
the palate, but overall this is a slightly lush, vivid rich wine that
exhibits some of the Pic St Loup regional character. Very good+ 08/02
(purchased directly from the domaine)
Laurent Miquel Syrah Mourvèdre 2000, Vin de Pays d’Oc
Distinctive savoury nose of ripe fruit with a pronounced roasted,
toasty character. The palate has a charred meaty edge to it, with savoury
berry fruit and pleasingly tart acidity. A lovely effort for the money
with plenty of character. Very good+ (£4.99 Sainsbury) 12/02
Herrick Syrah 2001, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France
Fermented in stainless steel with no wood. Deep coloured. Vivid, juicy
savoury berry and liquorice fruit on the nose. The palate is quite
rich with a nice savoury edge to the dense berry fruit. Very
attractive and not at all confected, with good concentration. Very
good+ (£4.99 Waitrose) 10/02
Domaine d’Aupilhac ‘Lou Maset’ 2001 Vin de Pays du
Mont Baudile
Attractive, smoky, slightly roasted edge to the nose with some
peppery, almost meaty fruit. Palate is quite fruity with sweet ripe red
berry fruits but with an attractive grown-up savoury pepper-spice edge.
The texture is quite rich and chocolatey. It will be interesting to follow
its progress. Very good+ (£7.99 Wannop Wines) 08/02
Château Pech-Latt 2001 Corbières, France
From an estate fully converted to organic viticulture since 1991,
this is 70% Carignan, with the balance being Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Deep coloured. Lovely savoury, herby, liquoricey edge to the nose. The
palate has a deliciously savoury character with bright, earthy edged
fruit, inky juiciness and quite a bit of substance. Very good+ (£5.99
Waitrose) 10/02
Ermitage du Pic St Loup Cuvée Saint-Agnes 2001, Pic St
Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc, France
Mainly Syrah, with some Grenache and Mourvèdre, aged in a mix of
new and used barrels. Smoky, earthy, slightly meaty edge to the nose,
which displays quite vivid berry fruit. The palate is fruity and juicy
with a lovely savoury, earthy complexity. Midweight and quite nicely
poised in quite a modern fruit-forward style, but still shows some
‘terroir’ character. Very good+ (£7.99
Waitrose) 10/02
Roc d’Anglade 1999 Coteaux du Languedoc
Made by Remy Pédréno and Réné Rostaing, this Languedoc ‘superwine’
has a simple, classic label. It’s a deep coloured wine with a forward,
smoky herby nose with a dominant roast coffee bean character: it’s meaty
and fruity. Lovely rich, meaty palate shows great concentration of spicy,
smoky fruit with good structure from the tannins and acidity. A striking,
unusual savoury wine. It will be fascinating to trace its evolution over
the next few years. Very good/excellent (£25 La Vigneronne) 05/02
Michel Laroche Pinot Noir 2001 Vin de Pays d’Ile de
Beauté
Deep coloured. Sweet spicy cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is
quite rich with soft berry fruit. Unusual for a Pinot Noir but
attractive. Very good (£4.99 Majestic) 10/02
Domaine Plantade Syrah Merlot 2001 Vin de Pays d’Oc
A brilliant cheapie. Very appealing with good definition to the
spicy edged berry fruit, together with some chalky leafy structure.
Very good+ (£4.49 Majestic) 10/02
Mas de Guiot Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Vin de Pays du Gard
Deep coloured. Some liquoricey herby complexity to the nose.
Lovely lushness to the sweet ripe fruit on the palate with some spicy
vanillin oak poking through on the finish, which adds an extra
dimension. Very good+ (£5.99 Majestic) 10/02
Domaine Madelon Corbières 2001
There’s some spicy earthiness on the nose, which displays sweet
ripe fruit. Lovely savoury, minerally complexity on the palate, with
the ripe fruit balanced quite well by the acidity. Lots of character
and very good value. Very good+ (£4.99 Majestic) 10/02
Terra Vitis Corbières 2001
Quite a rich savoury wine with chewy, chunky fruit. Satisfying and
authentic. Modern styled and fruit driven but not fake. (£4.99
Majestic) 10/02
Domaine Des Aires Hautes Minervois La Livinière 2001
This expressive wine has a lovely sweet lift to the nose with some
spicy-edged tarry fruit. Vivid, taut palate with spicy, savoury
intensity to the sweet fruit and some earthy structure hiding
underneath. Very good+ (£6.99 Majestic) 10/02
Mont Tauch Fitou l’Exception 2000
Assertive forward nose shows vivid damson and berry fruit with
some tarry medicinal complexity. The palate is bold, savoury and
tannic with lots going on. A modern structured style with lots of
character. Very good/excellent (£9.99 Majestic) 10/02
Domaine Capion ‘Le Sorbier’ 1999 Vin de Pays de l’Hérault
Neighbouring Mas de Daumas Gassac, this property is now owned by
South Africa’s Saxenberg Estate. From a Languedoc area better known
for its red wines, this is an ambitious, striking white wine. Powerful
nose of lemony, floral fruit with lots of vanilla-edged new oak.
Savoury, intense palate with coffee and vanilla notes, a rich spicy
texture and some of that soapy, soft texture often found in southern
French whites. The oak is quite dominant but it works well. Complex
stuff. Very good+ (£10.95 Berry Bros) 03/02
Domaine des Aires Hautes Minervois La Livinière 1998,
Languedoc
Deep red/black colour. Lovely rich savoury nose of smoky, liquoricey
fruit with a slightly roasted cinnamon-spice edge. Taut, chunky fruit on
the palate. Good acidity and tannins: a rich, concentrated wine.
Interesting and good value – worth keeping for a few years? Very good+
03/02
Domaine Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet 2000, Languedoc, France
Picpoul is an old-fashioned southern French grape that can produce
lovely crisp white wines. Rich, smoky, nutty nose is very fresh and
bracing. Lovely rich, savoury palate with a nutty texture and a touch
of lemony, pear-tinged fruit. Good concentration and some minerality.
Brilliant Picpoul. Very good/excellent (£5.95 Berry Bros) 04/02
Château
Cesseras Cuvée Olric 1999, Minervois, France
100% Syrah. Rich, liquoricey fruit on the nose with a slightly
roasted edge. Good concentration of chunky fruit on the palate. Rich,
satisfying stuff. Very good+ (£5.95 Berry Bros) 04/02
Mas
de Daumas Gassac Rouge 1999, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault, France
A famous Cabernet Sauvignon based blend from the Languedoc. Quite
closed nose. Good concentration of savoury, chunky fruit on the
palate, this is currently a tight tannic wine but has potential. Very
good+ (£19.95 Berry Bros) 04/02
Château L’Hospitalet Cuvée Beatrice 1999 La Clape,
Coteaux du Languedoc
An ambitious, modern-styled Languedoc white, packaged in a suitably
aspiring bottle. It’s a blend of 60% Bourboulenc, 30% Roussanne, 10%
Rolle. Very intriguing lemony herbal nose with a floral twist and some
toasty new oak. The palate is rich and rounded, with a liquoricey, spicy
edge and low acidity. Good concentration and intensity. It’s an
interesting wine, but for me there are two problems. First, the oak is a
little too dominant, and there’s a bit of a hole in the mid palate:
something seems to be missing. It comes across as a bit soft and soapy.
Perhaps it’s the low acidity? Very good+ (£11.99 Oddbins) 02/02
Camplazens l'Ermitage 1998 Élevé en fûts de chêne, Vin de Pays
d'Oc, France
Striking stuff. Inky dark red/black colour, showing some intense, herby,
spicy fruit on the nose, with a sweet sheen of vanilla oak. Chunky,
concentrated palate with some rounded, roasted oaky notes ad savoury
tannins. Ripe stuff with porty, caramel like notes: elegance is not the
strong point here, but you do get a lot of raw power and concentration for
the money. Impressive. Very good/excellent (£6.99 Oddbins) 12/01
La Baume Sauvignon Blanc 2000, Vin de Pays d’Oc
Crisp, grassy nose with some ripe tropical fruit notes. Good flavour
and concentration on the palate. Grassy and varietally true, with just a
trace of bitterness on the finish. They’ve just about got it right here.
Good/very good (£4.99, widely available) 03/02
Domaine Perdiguier Cuvée d'en Auger 1999, Vin de Pays des
Coteaux d'Ensérune
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, made by Jérome
Ferracci from his vineyards just north of Beziers. Super nose: complex
liquorice and spice notes with some southern herbal character and
toasty edge. Palate is rich with a spicy edge and good balance.
Savoury in style, with good density. Very good/excellent (£9.69
A&B Vintners) 11/01
Domaine de Lavabre Les Desmoiselles de Lavabre 1998, Pic St
Loup, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc
Olivier Bridel makes three different cuvées; this is his middle
one. This is a blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache, 10% Carignan and 10%
Cinsault. It has an attractive juicy nose with meaty, plummy fruit.
Elegant, full flavoured meaty/earthy palate with good acidity and
balance. Impressive. Very good+ (£8.22 A&B Vintners) 11/01
Domaine du Poujol 'Podio Alto' 1999 Coteaux du Languedoc
Very elegantly packaged, this is clearly a wine with some
ambition. It's a mid weight red, with a ripe, spicy, leathery nose
that's still quite tight and youthful. The dry, spicy palate has some
chunky southern character. It's an authentic southern French style,
but needs time to develop some real personality. Very good (€7.50;
£4.90 Mille Vignes) 1/02
Domaine de Montpezat Merlot 2000 Vin de Pays d'Oc
Deep red/black colour. The nose shows ripe, liquorice-tinged fruit
with a slightly smoky, toasty edge. Good density of savoury berry
fruit with a spicy, dusty edge and some tannin. Quite chunky and
satisfying in a southern style, with a lush sheen to the fruit. Good
value here. Very good+ (€3.80; £2.50 Mille Vignes) 01/02
Domaine Montrose Chardonnay 2000, Vin de Pays d'Oc
Quite a full yellow/gold colour, this a ripe nose of tropical
fruit, which carries through to the buttery palate, with a slightly
coconutty edge. It is a well made commercial Chardonnay, but it could
have come from virtually anywhere. Very good (€4.9; £3.20 Mille
Vignes) 1/02
Domaine Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet 2000 Coteaux du
Languedoc
A yellow/gold colour, this has a lovely subtle nose displaying
notes of lime, honey, spice and candle wax. Very expressive. The
palate is quite full flavoured and has an attractive texture, with a
herby edge and a minerally, acid finish. An impressive yet restrained
white wine that would make a versatile food companion. Very good+
(€5.40; £3.50 Mille Vignes) 1/02
Mas Champart Saint Chinian 'Tradition' 1998, Languedoc
Deep coloured wine with a slightly muted, spicy, herby nose.
Palate is dense with tight structure and a spicy, tannic finish. A
dense wine; currently a bit firm but very good value. Very good
(£7.25 A&B Vintners) 11/01
Domaine de la Prose Cuvée Prestige 1999, AOC Coteaux du
Languedoc
Bertrand de Mortillet is a young vigneron who is fanatical about
wine, and grew up in the area (apparently he also has wealthy
parents). He's passionate: pruning short he goes for low yields and
attains good physiological ripeness. This wine, a blend of Grenache
and Syrah, has a nice nose with a herby cherry fruit and an attractive
meatiness. The palate is rich, savoury and quite delicious, with spicy
tannins and good acidity on the finish. A really nice wine. Very
good/excellent (£7.25 A&B Vintners) 11/01
Fox Wood Old Bush Vine Syrah 2000, Vin de Pays d'Oc
This isn't as good as previous vintages of this wine, which were
pretty impressive. It has a ripe, chocolatey nose, and the palate shows
sweet fruit and some oak with savoury tannins and a touch of spice. It's
well judged commercial winemaking. Easy drinking stuff with quite good
concentration. A bit bland though. Good/very good (£4.99 Majestic) 11/01
Château Pech Redon Sélection La Clape 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc
This deep-coloured red has an intriguing, spicy nose with a lifted, meaty
edge. Palate is rich and savoury with a really attractive slightly bitter
edge to the fruit, making it a good food wine. Very good+ (£6.99
Majestic) 12/01
Château L'Euzière Cuvée Les Escarboucles 1998, Pic St Loup,
Coteaux du Languedoc
There's a sweet caramel edge to the expressive herbal nose, with a bit of
cinnamon spice. The palate is medium bodied with spicy tannins and a hint
of 'garrigue'. Not as meaty or earthy as many of the wines from Pic St
Loup, and showing perhaps just a little too much oak influence. It's also
a little alcoholic. I find it a bit disappointing, but it may just be that
it needs a couple of years to come round and express itself. Very good
(£8.99 Unwins) 12/01
L'Esprit de Fonte Caude 1997, Coteaux de Languedoc
One of the superstar new-wave wines emerging from the Languedoc, this is a
dense red with real character. The rich, spicy, meaty nose shows some old
leather notes, and leads to a full, complex palate with meaty, liquoricey
fruit. There's a herby, garrigue-like edge that adds interest and stops
this falling into the 'international' wine category. Very good/excellent
(£14.95 La Vigneronne) 09/01
Château le Thou 1999 AOC Coteaux du Languedoc
Very unusual nose of herbs and caramel with a plasticene-like
edge. The rich palate is quite ripe and full. Unusual stuff; I'm not
sure about this one, but I can see it's appeal. Good value. Very good
(£6.76 A&B Vintners) 11/01
Domaine D'Auphilac Montpeyroux 1998, AOC Coteaux du Langudeoc
Sylvain Fadat's wines have established a huge reputation from this
promising Languedoc commune. Deep coloured, this wine has a rich,
slightly herbal edge to the nose. The palate is attractively meaty and
spicy. It's currently quite firm, but showing plenty of potential. A
very solid wine with the potential to be serious in a few years' time.
Very good+ (£10.70 A&B Vintners) 11/01
Domaine de Coudoulet Muscat 2000 Vin de Pays d'Oc
A family owned Domaine in the South of France that's well known for its
Viognier, but this dry Muscat is no slouchit's probably one of the
best examples that I've tried. It kicks off with a beautifully aromatic,
herby, grapey nose, which leads to a full flavoured, spicy palate.
Impressive stuff, and finishes dry. Very good+ (£5.95 Berry Bros &
Rudd) 09/01
Syrache 1998, Comte Cathare, Corbières
A premium Languedoc wine (but with a corny name), made with hand picked
Grenache and Syrah, cultivated biodynamically and bottled unfiltered. 12 200
bottles produced. A deep red/purple colour, this has a nice savoury,
spicy/herby nose with a meaty edge and touches of undergrowth. The palate
shows rich, spicy fruit, firm fine-grained tannins and a lovely herby, spicy
southern character. After a while in the glass, herby, leathery and tea-leaf
notes emerge. Nicely combines ripe fruit with old world restraint. Very
good/excellent 06/01
Bergerie de l'Hortus Classique Blanc 1999, Vin de Pays de Val de Montferrand
Surprising this Languedoc white, from a region best known for reds. It’s
an impressive, boldly flavoured white wine, made from a blend of Chardonnay
and Viognier. The aromatic, floral, herbal nose has a touch of citrus, spicy
notes and some honey. The palate is full textured, minerally with some lime
notes, good acidity and good concentration. Very good+ 06/01
Mont Tauch Fitou L'Exception 1998, Langudeoc
This is an ambitious effort from the well-regarded Mont Tauch
cooperative. It's a deep coloured wine with a striking smoky, new oak
influenced nose. The palate is concentrated and savoury, showing
herbal fruit, firm tannins and lots of oak. Dense, chunky stuff. Very
good+ (£8.99 Majestic) 10/01
Domaine de Coudoulet Muscat 2000 Vin de Pays d'Oc
A family owned Domaine in the South of France that's well known
for its Viognier, but this dry Muscat is no slouch—it's probably one
of the best examples that I've tried. It kicks off with a beautifully
aromatic, herby, grapey nose, which leads to a full flavoured, spicy
palate. Impressive stuff, and finishes dry. Very good+ (£5.95 Berry
Bros & Rudd) 09/01
Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères La Closeraie 2000, Languedoc
Nicely packaged with an elegant label design, this is a tasty,
authentic wine from the South of France. A concentrated red/purple
colour it has a stunning smoky, meaty, 'roasted' nose, with a herby,
complex palate that's finished off with dry, spicy tannins. A
delicious savoury southern-style wine with bags of character. Very
good+ (£6.99 Majestic) 10/01
Château Cazal Viel St Chinian Vieilles Vignes 1999
Deep red purple colour, with a nose of spicy dark fruits with an
attractive smoky edge. Chewy palate with a leathery, chewy character, dry
tannins, good acidity and nice minerality. Tasty stuff, showing real
typicity. Very good+ (no UK listing at present) 11/01
Château Cazal Viel Saint-Chinian Cuvée des Fees 1999
From calcareous clay soils, this is mostly Syrah with a dash of press
Viognier, and doesn't see any oak. Deep red/purple coloured with a
satisfying earthy, spicy, mineralic nose. The palate shows a good
concentration of juicy, mineral edged fruit with smooth supple tannins and
good acidity. Not a blockbuster, but a satisfying wine showing lots of
southern character and really nice balance. Very good+ (£6.99 Waitrose;
£6.49 Somerfield) 11/01
Cazal Viel Viognier Grande Réserve 2000, Vin de Pays d'Oc
(Clay soil, yield 35 hl/ha, matured in a mixture of steel tanks and
new oak barrels.) An attractive wine from trendy grape Viognier: it's
varietally true, with that authentic aromatic peach , apricot and slightly
burnt rubber nose. Rich, soft-textured palate has a touch of spice on the
finish and relatively low acidity. Tiny bit 'hot', but an interesting and
tasty example of this grape. Very good+ (£6.99 First Quench) 11/01
Laurent Miquel Syrah/Mourvèdre 2000 Vin de Pays d'Oc
Quite deep coloured, this wine has an enticing smoky/earthy nose with a
touch of cinnamon. Palate has plenty of savoury, slightly meaty fruit with a
deft touch of tannin. Satisfying stuff, this is quite impressive for the
price. (£4.49 Sainsbury) Very good 11/01
Bergerie de L’Hortus Classique 1999, Pic St Loup, Coteaux du
Languedoc
Refreshingly, this new-wave southern French red is not some overoaked
14° alcohol monster, but instead is a classic example of why Pic St Loup is
one of the most impressive communes in the Languedoc. The nose is
deliciously meaty, herby, smoky and earthy, with some raspberry/damson
fruit. The palate shows meaty, olive-laced fruit with quite high acidity and
a lovely savoury character. Good balance. Very good/excellent (£8.50 Lea
& Sandeman, Handford) 08/01
Domaine L'Aigueliere Grenat 1997, Vin de Pays du Mont Baudile
This is a wonderfully expressive, peppery Grenache that outperforms most
Châteuneuf du Pape. Sweet fruit, herbs and spice (especially cinnamon)
dominate the nose, leading to a deep savoury palate with a peppery edge and
dusty tannins. The next day the wine has opened out a bit to display meaty,
chocolatey fruit with some smoky notes. Very good/excellent (£7.99 Oddbins,
currently reduced to £5.99) 07/01
Fortant de France Syrah 1999, Vin de Pays d'Oc
With a smoky, roasted nose this chunky Syrah shows impressive concentration
and dry, dusty tannins on the finish. Not subtle, but impressive for the
price. Very good (£3.99 Budgens) 09/01
Fortant de France Sauvignon Blanc 2000, Vin de Pays d'Oc
Varietally true aromatic nose with grapefruit and grassy notes. The palate
is rounded and shows good concentration. Modern and full flavoured, this is
quite impressive for the price. Very good (£3.99 Widely Available) 09/01
Domaine des Aires Hautes Minervois La Livinière 1998, Gilles Chabbert
La Livinière is acknowledged to be the best sub-appellation of
Minervois, and this is a delightful blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan in
which the grapes have been allowed to express their origin by some
unintrusive winemaking. The nose mixes 'garrigue' herbal notes with sweet
fruit. On the palate there is earthy, minerally, liquorice-laced fruit with
good concentration and a herby character. Very good+ (Majestic £6.99) 03/01
Domaine Fonte Caude Montpeyroux 1997 AOC Coteaux du Languedoc
Satisfying and authentic southern red from a promising commune in the
Languedoc. It's a chunky, savoury, earthy wine with some nice barnyardy
complexity (but it is not a stinky wine). There is deep savoury,
cassis-laden fruit and good structure. Very good+ (About £10?, La
Vigneronne) 2/01
Les Fontanelles Viognier 1999, Vin de Pays d'Oc
Quite full coloured, this is a dry, crisp white with a bit of fatness of
texture, a touch of spiciness and melon and mango notes. Lacks some of the
exotic, floral, peachy notes normally associated with this variety, but
still a nice drop. Good/very good (£4.99 Majestic)
Picpoul de Pinet 'Carte Noire' 1999 Cave L'Ormarine
A full yellow colour, this distinctive Languedoc white has a nice herby/waxy
nose and a fresh, savoury, citrus-tinged palate. Bone dry and fresh, it's a
good inexpensive food wine. Good/very good (about £4, worldmarechal) 05/01
Mas de Quiot 2000, Vin de Pays du Gard
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon/40% Shiraz. Very deep red/purple colour.
The warm, spicy nose has an attractive earthiness to it, and leads to a
chunky palate showing red berry fruit and dusty, dry tannins. With good
concentration, this is a solid if slightly unexciting wine. Very good
(£5.99 Majestic) 10/01
Château de Lascours Pic St Loup Cuvée Classique 1999, AOC Coteaux
du Languedoc
Nice savoury, smoky/herby nose with a savoury, medicinal pungency on
the palate. Lively acidity. Tasty stuff and a good effort from this tricky
vintage. Very good+ 04/01
Château de Lascours Pic St Loup Cuvée Fût l'Ambroisie 1998, AOC
Coteaux du Languedoc
Attractive smoky/herby nose with a savoury pungency. Lively palate with
rich fruit, high acidity and a nice savoury character. Very good/excellent
04/01
Domaine Mas de la Garrigue Cuvée C'line 1996 Côtes du Roussillon
A faulty wine? On opening it is slightly cloudy, and there's obviously been some rather
odd microbial activity taking place here. It is extremely stinky with an animal-like nose
and a savoury, meaty, cheesy, poopy palate. There's also a metallic tang on the palate. I
don't mind a bit of stink in my wines, but this has crossed over and is almost
undrinkable. Mind you, I'd rather suffer the odd faulty bottle than end up with sterile,
over-filtered, techno wines. (La Vigneronne, around £7) 2/01
Corbières d'Embres 1998, Tardieu Laurent
From low-yielding old vine Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, this is an opulent, sexy wine,
but not instantly recognizable as Corbières. Deep red/black colour with an attrcative,
full, licqouricey, smoky, herby nose. There is classy oak on the palate, together with
soft, exotic fruit, lots of alcohol and a rich texture. With lots of everything, this is
seductive in a modern style. Very good/excellent (£14.95 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Corbières Roquefort 1998, Tardieu Laurent
From 80 year-old Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan at heroically low yields of 15 hl/ha.
Concentrated, deep red/black colour with an exotic, ripe nose of fruit, licqourice and
alcohol. Very ripe and sweetly fruited on the palate hides consiberable tannic structure.
Acoholic and quite port-like, with a slightly 'chemical' edge. Very good+ (£14.95 La
Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine Les Aurelles 'Aurel' 1998, Coteaux du Langeudoc
From a domaine located near Pezenas started a few years ago by Karl Mauguin and Basile
Saint-Germain. This is a Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend from low-yielding old vines. A
red/black colour, this has a ripe, herby, sweetly fruited nose. Soft spicy fruit is backed
by firm tannins. It's chunky and savoury, and a bit like a very good Châteauneuf du Pape.
Very good/excellent, but needs time. (£15.95 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine de la Marfée, Les Champs Murmurés 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc
Thierry Hasard apparently vinifies this wine in the basement of his house in the centre of
Montpellier, and first vintage was in 1997. This is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and
Cinsault A deep red/black colour, with a forward, smoky, licqourice nose. Complex and
full, this has a lovely, rich palate with firm, spicy tannins and a nice mineral streak.
With great balance, this is modern and delicious; for the long haul. Excellent (£18.75 La
Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine de Creisses 'Les Brunes' 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc
A blend of Cabernet, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Rich, exotic nose of ripe fruit and licqourice.
Complex and full, this has a dense, rich palate with firm tannins and quite high alcohol.
Nice, but expensive. Very good + (£22.50 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine de la Casa Blanca, Banyuls Tradition 1998
Mainly Grenache Gris. Ripe, sweet, herbal nose -- slightly caramelized. Full, dense and
rich on the palate, with great balance and sweet herbiness. This has plenty of what is
known as 'rancio' character. Very good/ excellent (£10.95 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine de la Casa Blanca, Banyuls Vintage 1998
Mainly Grenache Noir, matured in small oak barrels. This is darker coloured, with a less
open nose than the Banyuls tradition, and less sweetness too. Dark coloured, this has a
complex, herby palate with some tannins. It's quite port-like, without much 'rancio'
character. Super balance. Excellent (£11.50 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine de Ravanès Merlot 1998, Vin de Pays
From an ambitious producer from the South of France, this is a mid-weight red with an
attractive leafy/herby nose. Soft, balanced and spicy on the palate, perhaps lacking a bit
of concentration, with leafy, tobaccoey undertoned. Good/very good. (£7.50 La Vigneronne)
11/00
Domaine de Ravanès Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, Vin de Pays
A mide-weight red showing a refined blackcurrant and herb-laced nose. Nice balanced palate
with a bit of spice and some herby notes. Unremarkable. Good/ very good. (£8.50 La
Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine de Comberousse 1998 'Roucaillat', Coteaux du Languedoc
A tasty white wine (a blend of the varieties Grenache Blanc, Rolle and Roussanne), this
has an attractive mineralic nose with bright, smoky note. It has a lovely rich palate:
rounded, soft and full with nutty, herbal character. Quite fat textured; full flavoured
and delicious. Very good+ (£6.95 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine Terre Mégère Merlot 1998, Vin de Pays
A great bargain from the South of France. Deep purple/black, with a lovely blast of sweet
leafy/herbal fruit on the nose, underlain by a touch of smoky complexity. On the palate
this shows great concentration and lovely, ripe, mineralic fruit. All you'd want in an
inexpensive red. Very good/ excellent (£5.50 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine Terre Mégère Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, Vin de Pays
Deep red colour with an attractive smoky/herbal nose with some ripe fruit. On the palate
there is lots of fruit, but overall it is savoury and quite austere. Good concentration; a
nice wine. Very good + (£5.75 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine Terre Mégère 'Les Dolomies' 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc
Mostly Syrah, this is a wonderful, rustic, meaty wine of great character. Deep, rich,
smoky nose with a meaty depth to it. Concentrated, earthy, rich palate: this is impressive
stuff with a slightly wild, animal-like edge. Very good/excellent (£6.95 La Vigneronne)
11/00
Domaine Vaquer 'L'Exception' 1998, Vin de Pays Catalan
A blend of Carignan and Grenache. Dep red/black colour with a herby/peppery nose that has
a touch of caramel about it. Ripe, full and porty palate with good density and rich,
slightly sweet fruit. Warming and southern. Very good (£9.95 La Vigneronne) 11/00
Domaine de la Casa Blanca Collioure 1998
Alain Soufflet uses more Syrah than is usual for this Grenache-dominated appellation. This
wine is a full red colour with a lighter rim. Warm Southern nose gives way to a ripe
palate dominated by rich, spicy/peppery fruit. There's a bit of tannin there, too. Very
good (£8.95 La Vigneronne) 11/00
La Cuvée Mythique 1998, Vin de Pays d'Oc, France
A blend of Val d'Orbieu's best parcels of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan, this
is a superb, dense, fruit-packed red at a very good price. Deep coloured, it has a lovely
nose of ripe fruit, herbs and well-judged oak. On the concentrated palate there is sweet
fruit and oak, underpinned by firm tannins. In style, this sits somewhere in between other
new wave Languedoc reds (which tend to be more terroir-driven) and Aussie Shiraz. It's a
wine to buy by the case for drinking over the next few years. Very good/excellent (£6.49
Majestic, Waitrose) 1/01
Domaine des Chênes 1997 Tautavel, Côtes du
Roussillon Villages
A deep red/purple colour, this is a medium bodied southern red with an attractive nose of
herbs and olives, but with a slight green or vegetal edge. There's good concentration on
the palate, together with herby, slightly cheesy fruit and noticeable tannins: this is
currently still quite youthful, and it will be interesting to see how it develops, and
whether the greenness dissipates with time. (£9.50 La Vigneronne) 1/01
Domaine du Baruel Cuvée Fontanilles 1996, Vin du
Pays de Cevennes
From a 12 Ha domaine in the picturesque Cevennes in the South of France, planted with
Cabernet and Syrah; the average vine age is 20 years, and yields are very low at 20 hl/Ha.
This is the Syrah-only wine, and it is a dark red/black with an attractive smoky nose,
showing real Syrah character. The palate is dominated by firm tannins, dark fruits and a
dry, dusty character, finished off with lemony acidity. Tasted blind, I might even mistake
this for an Italian wine; it clearly needs some more time to show its best. Very good+
(£11 La Vigneronne) 1/01
Mas de Daumas Gassac 1996, Vin de Pays de l'Herault
Possibly the most famous wine from the south of France, this almost lives up to its huge
reputation, but there's a touch of greenness that stops it being really great. Deep
red/black colour. Intense nose of complex cassis with a leafy mineral streak. Good
concentration and complexity, with ripe fruit, firm tannins and a slightly green streak
(although this isn't unpleasant). Almost claret-like in its balance. Very good/excellent
(£12.99 Tesco) 11/00
Château Grande Cassagne Blanc 1999 Costières de
Nîmes
A nice southern French white with good balance and real character, made mainly from
Grenache Blanc with a touch of Roussanne. Attractive perfumed floral nose with a musky
edge, followed up by a broad, full flavoured palate. Very good + (£6.99 La Vigneronne)
10/00
Faugères Abbaye de Sylva Plana 1999, La Closeraie
First vintage from new winemaker, handpicked grapes and low yields of 30 hl/ha. Full
red/black colour. Slightly muted nose but full, dense palate of soft, ripe, chalky fruit.
Nice concentration: needs time to show its best? Very good. (£6.49 Majestic) 10/00
Minervois Domaine des Aires Hautes La Livinière 1998
Soft, forward, slightly sweet nose that seems to be typical of new-wave Minervois. Exotic
herby, rich fruit on the palate, with nice balance. Very good+ (Majestic £6.99) 10/00
Château Coupes Roses Les Plôts 1999, Minervois
Deep red purple with a delicious nose: pungent, meaty and exotic. Tannic and full on the
palate this is super stuff, with lovely herby complexity. Very good/excellent. (£6.99
Majestic) 10/00
Corbières 1999, Domaine Madelon
Red/black colour, with good concentration. It's a bright, fruity wine with a nice smoky
edge. Good/very good, and a good value. (£3.99, Majestic) 10/00
L'Excellence du Château Capendu 1999, Corbières
Impressive red/black colour and good concentration to this nicely packaged wine. Quite
muted on the nose, with a modern, fruit-forward palate. A little disappointing. Good+
(£5.99 Majestic) 10/00
Château de Lastours 1993 Elévé en Fûts
de Chêne, Corbières AOC
An evolved, mid-weight Carignan-dominated wine. Deep purple/red, this has a full nose of
sweet tea, leather and exotic feral/animal notes, with Bordeaux-like cedar notes. On the
palate it has begun to dry out a little, but there are still firm, spicy tannins and good
acidity, and this is followed up with a mineral-like stoniness. A delicate, complex and
well poised wine, probably peaking now. On the second night the wine is over the hill.
Very good+ 10/00
Fox Wood Old Bush Vine Syrah 1998, Vin de Pays d'Oc
Made from 45 year old bush vines and aged in American oak. This concentrated
southern red is full of character, with a stony/earthy nose and ripe, earthy fruit, firm
tannins and some spiciness from the unobtrusive oaking. Very good+, and a bargain. (£4.99
Majestic) 9/00
Collioure Cuvée 'Cosprons Levants' 1995 Domaine du
Mas Blanc
Impressive southern red from an estate more famou for its Banyuls, made of
Mourvèdre,
Syrah and some Counoise; 4400 bottles produced. Red/black colour with a muted, stony nose.
Brooding, concentrated, earthy and stony on palate. Deep, savoury and a little bit
leathery; attractive but not showy, this wine may well evolve some more. Very good+
(£5.99 Majestic) 9/00
La Cuvée Mythique 1998, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Val
d'Orbieu
This attractively packaged wine is the top cuvée from the large negociant firm of Val
d'Orbieu in the Languedoc. This chewy, structured wine is a real winner. Dense red/black,
with a nose of smoky, meaty red fruits. Chunky and with earthy tannins on the palate, the
noticeable oak adds depth and spice to what is a satisfying and balanced wine. There's
also a minerally, stony edge to the fruit. Very good (£6.49 Waitrose, Majestic) 9/00
Mas Bruguiere La Grenadière 1998, Pic Saint-Loup,
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc
Attractive medium bodied wine displaying a nose of smoky and spicy notes. On the palate it
is ripe and soft, with soft, peppery fruit and dusty, drying tannins. There is some
chocolatey richness to the fruit, too. It's an attractive wine that is nicely poised
between the old and new worlds in style, and which has a promising evolution ahead of it.
Very good. 4/00
Borie du Maurel Cuvée Sylla 1998 Minervois
Perfumed, exotic nose of sweet fruit. Astonishingly intense. Rich and licqouricey with
dense fruit, olives and firm tannins. Despite the concentration, this is a soft, intense
wine. Very good, but a bit soft, lacking balance. Perhaps the grapes were just a bit too
ripe? (£12.99 Oddbins) 7/00
Borie du Maurel Belle de Nuit 1999, Minervois
This is an odd wine. It has rich, soft, concentrated flavours of chocolatey fruit and
liquorice, with an exotic nose of sweet herbs, but it lacks the acidity and/or tannins
necessary to structure the wine properly. It's certainly attractive in an upfront sort of
way -- a bit like an overripe Zinfandel -- but I'm not sure they've got it right. I
suspect that with the high alcohol (14%), they harvested these grapes when they were
slightly overripe, resulting in an unbalanced wine. (Oddbins £7.49) 8/00
Grande Cassagne Hippolyte 1998, Costières de Nimes
Another dense southern French superwine. Slightly muted, bready nose with masses of sweet,
ripe fruit on the palate. There are firm tannins and good acidity balancing the ripe
fruit. Very good, but lacks a tiny bit of excitement. 7/00
Barrel-matured Merlot Vin de Pays du Torgan 1998, Mount Tauch, Languedoc
From the well-reputed Mount Tauch cooperative comes this concentrated, oaky, modern-styled
red. It is well structured with firm tannins and red berry fruit. Good, without being
really interesting, the varietal character of Merlot is underlaid by earthy, dusty,
regional character. (£7.99 Tesco) 7/00
Chateau Reig 1991 Coillioure
Soft, dusty mature red with firm tannins. A lovely southern wine with firm acidity and
mature character. Good. 7/00
Château de Lancyre Grande Cuvée 1997, Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc
AOC
From a 73 Ha estate, this is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre matured for 12
months in barriques. A red/purple colour, this is wonderful stuff. A smoky nose is
followed by a smoky, meaty, herby palate with medium body and quite high acidity. There
are hints of tea and tobacco, firm tannins and some cherry fruit. Complex and refined,
this is archetypal Pic Saint-Loup with quite a life ahead of it. Very good/ excellent.
(£7.19, Tesco) 6/00
Domaine Haut Lirou 1998, Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc
A herby, meaty, chocolatey wine of medium concentration. Quite pleasant, with real
regional character, but why is there no vintage date on the label? (£5.30, Languedoc
Select [winesoc.co.uk]) 7/00
Domaine Ollier Taillefer Faugères 1998, Castel Fossibus
Concentrated deep purple colour. Herby nose with some smoky oak. Ripe, complex
and with noticeable new oak and plenty of red berry fruit. Savoury and intense with a good
tannic structure; a serious, full flavoured wine. Very good + (Languedoc Select
[winesoc.co.uk]) 6/00
Mas des Costes Pic Saint-Loup 1997, Coteaux du Languedoc
A satisfying Southern French red with plenty of regional character. 70% Syrah,
30% Grenache. Deep coloured with a nose of smoky bacon and herbs. On the palate it is
chunky, deep and herby, with a touch of pepper and chalky tannins. There are red fruits
present, and there's also some balancing acidity. Good complexity, and noticeable oak.
Good/very good. (£6.65, Languedoc Select [winesoc.co.uk]) 7/00
Château des Peyregrandes 1998, Faugères
35% Syrah, 30% Carignan, 25% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre. Yields of 35 hl/ha.
Deep purple/black colour. Muted stony nose. Firm palate with intense, earthy fruit and
strong tannins. A structured, brooding wine; serious, but restrained. May develop nicely.
Opens out nicely after a while in the glass to reveal smoky, herby elements. Very good
(£6.20 Languedoc Select [winesoc.co.uk]) 6/00
Domaine Begude Chardonnay 1999, Comte Cathare, Vin de Pays d'Oc
A light, fresh, lemony Chardonnay. Its appealing, but quite simple. Medium
bodied. Good. (£4.99 Oddbins) 7/00
Domaine Begude Marsanne/Viognier 1999, Comte Cathare, Vin de Pays d'Oc
A 50/50 blend. Gently aromatic wine with a rich, full palate of nutty, floral and melon
flavours. Modern in style, but attractive and fresh. A good food match. Good. (Oddbins
£4.99) 7/00
1999 Les Clos de Paulilles Rose, Colliure AOC
Syrah-based, this is quite deep coloured for a rose, with sweet cherry and pepper
flavours. Deep, fruity and dry, it is a good food wine with a nice texture, but is
probably pushing the limit a bit on value for money. (£5.99, Oddbins). 6/00
Chateau Valcyre 1998 Robert Graffinet, Pic Saint Loup, AOC Coteaux du
Languedoc, Elevé en fût de Chêne
Youthful red/purple colour. Bright raspberry fruit combines with peppery notes
and firm tannins to produce a clean, modern-styled wine with well judged oak. It probably
needs some time to show its best; the South of France meets the Hunter Valley. Very good.
(£5.45, Languedoc Select [winesoc.co.uk]) 7/00
Château de Jau, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 1997
Full, herby, barnyardy (bretty), peppery wine with high acid, medum body and cherry and
red fruits. A typically Southern French red. Good. (Nicolas £6.99) 6/00
Domaine de la Grangenon 1998 Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardeche
A varietal Syrah in a modern, fruit-driven style: quite unusual for a Southern French
wine. Inviting nose of ripe chocolatey fruit with bacon-fat varietal character. Soft and
meaty on palate with sweet herby fruit. Youthful and soft, this is a delicious, new-world
styled wine. Soft and expressive. Very good, but avoid if you are looking for a
traditional styled wine. (£7.50 La Vigneronne) 5/00
Mortiès Grande Cuvée 1996, Mas de Mortiès, Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du
Languedoc
Deep red/purple, with an open nose of earthy, meaty cherry fruit and a big dose of
farmyardy aromas. On the palate there is meaty, chocolatey fruit with a tongue-tingling
finish. Tasty southern wine if you don't mind the strong brettanomyces (brett) character.
(£9.99 Harrods) 5/00
Domaine de La Motte Chardonnay 1998, James Herrick, Vin de Pays d'Oc
10% barrel fermented; 50% malolactic. Concentrated but tight. Light lemon and mineral
laden Chardonnay with some nice smoky/appley notes. Nicely balanced and savoury; quite
delicate. Good. (£6.49 Oddbins) 5/00
Domine Les Garrigues de Truilhas 1998, James Herrick, Vin de Pays d'Oc
The name comes from the stony soil of the vineyards. Lean on the nose with smoky,
mineral-like characters. Some ripe fruit on the palate, but overall still quite lean, with
more smoky, mineralic notes. Slightly bitter finish. Quite good. (£5.49 Oddbins) 5/00
Domaine Capion Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, Vin de Pays de L'Herault
A really impressive domain-bottled Cabernet Sauvignon from the South of France, but with a
dreadfully dull label. Concentrated purple/black with a creamy, herbal, chocolatey
texture. Leafy, rich blackcurrant fruit with firm tannins and good structure. A nice, new
wave Southern French wine. (Berry Brothers & Rudd, £6.95) 5/00
La Gravette 1999 Rosé, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc
A delicious rosé in a modern style: fresh, crisp and dry with strawberry laced sweet
fruits and good acidity. Delicate and nicely made. (£4.10 Languedoc Select
[winesoc.co.uk]) 6/00
Château de Lascours 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup, Rosé
Rosé wines are relatively neglected in the UK, but are drunk by the pitcher-full
in the South of France. Attractive Amber/pink colour. Lovely fresh, fruity wine with good
acidity, full flavour and a peppery edge. Clean and delicious well chilled. On a warm
summer's evening, this is the ideal wine, good with food. (£4.45, Languedoc Select
[winesoc.co.uk]) 6/00
Château de Lascours 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup
Lovely stuff. Youthful red/purple colour. A savoury, peppery, herby wine with good
concentration and meaty undertones. Firm tannins underlying the fruit; lovely balance and
good complexity. Has the distinctive regional character commonly found in many Pic
Saint-Loup wines. Despite the meat/earthy character, it is not at all barnyardy or bretty.
Very good + (£4.65, Languedoc Select [winesoc.co.uk]) 6/00
Ermitage du Pic St Loup 1998, Pic-St-Loup, AOC
Coteaux du Languedoc
Youthful red/black colour. This is a soft-textured, medium-bodied wine
with a nice smoky nose of southern herbs and wet stones. On the palate the smoky, herby
fruit is joined by olives and dry tannins. Not as richly structured as some from this
region can be, but a substantial and authentic southern wine. Pretty good. (Waitrose,
price unknown but should be around £6). 2/00
La Gravette Marsanne/Rousanne 1999, Vin de Pays
d'Oc blanc
A good value, clean white wine from a progressive co-op in the South of France. Aromatic
nose of flowers and honey. On the palate, clean soft fruit flavours predominate. Dry and
modern-styled, with some mineral notes. Good value -- shame about the horrible composite
cork they use, and there is no vintage date on the bottle. (£3.95,
winesoc.co.uk) 6/00
Domaine des Courtilles 1998, Corbières AOC
Bernard Schürr, vigneron. Unfiltered, 14.5% alcohol
A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. It is a vibrant red/purple colour. Intense nose
of herbs and liquorice. Ripe and concentrated with flavours of pepper, cherries, vanilla,
cinnamon (from the Grenache?) and wet stones (from the Carignan?). With soft tannins, this
is distinctively a Corbières wine, yet it has the softness and fruit of a new world wine.
Very good, but unusual. (£8.99, Waitrose) 5/00
Mas de Gebre 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc
The Southern French revolution continues. This is an interesting concept: it is a
single estate wine made by the local co-op, with 100% low yielding old vine Syrah grapes,
fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks for five months before bottling. The wine
is a concentrated purple/black. The nose is typical Syrah: smoky bacon fat and violets. On
the palate it is savoury and tannic, spicy and peppery and with a mouth-coating texture.
Very attractive stuff, and may develop well in the bottle. (£6.99 Oddbins) 11/99
Mas Bruguiere LArbouse 1998, Coteaux du
Languedoc Pic St Loup
My first crack at the supposedly excellent 1998 vintage in the
Languedoc. This
wine is deep coloured with an enticing nose of smoky, earthy red fruits. It is medium
bodied, with deep, almost mystical flavours that are predominantly herby, meaty and earthy
than fruit-derived. There is a touch of chocolate-like richness and no detectable oak.
Tannic and savoury, this is an ideal food wine. Interesting and very good. (£6.79, Noel
Young Wine) 11/99
Chateau LEuzière Cuvée Les Escarboucles 1997
Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St Loup
This is matured in new oak, but it is hard to detect. Delightful structure
provided by a combination of tannins and acidity. Characteristic Pic St Loup profile of
herby, smoky, earthy red fruit, with raspberry and black cherry notes. Quite aromatic --
not as lush as the Ch de Cazenueve Roc des Mates, but pretty good still. Soft and
approachable now, but will evolve. Recommended. (£7.99, Fullers) 7/99
Domaine Forca Real 1996, Cotes du Roussillon Villages
Distinctive smoky, herby wine with real class and good concentration. 60%
grenache/20% syrah/15% Mourvedre/5% Carignan. The nose has some really interesting notes
of meaty, smoky bacon. It is rich and complex, but not noticeably bretty. Soft textured.
Really good and a great bargain for current drinking. (£4.99 Fullers) 8/99
Chateau de Lastours Blanc de Blancs 1997, Corbieres
Full bodied Southern French white with delicious floral and peach bouquet and a
concentrated, fruity, slightly spicy palate. Soft textured and impressive. It is mainly
Malvoisie, apparently. This is a real find from a region and producer better known for its
reds. (35 ff from domaine) 9/99
Château de Cazeneuve Pic-St-Loup 1997 Le Roc des
Mates
A £7 wine that tastes like a £15 wine. Deep red/purple colour. Rich, herby and earthy
with meaty fruit -- there is also some pepper spice character. Authentic wine with good
complexity (there may be some new oak here) with a deep, brooding character that appears
to owe more to the vineyard than to the winery. (Fuller's £6.99) 5/00
Chateau de Jau 1997, Cotes du Roussillon
Villages
Bright red purple with medium concentration. Lovely big bretty nose: herby,
fecal, cheesy and meaty notes dominate. Very savoury with balancing acid and tannins. This
wine is certainly bretty, but for me it is still at a level that is attractive and adds
complexity. Good but not a stunner. Price around 35ff from the domaine, in the UK this
translates to about £7. 8/99
Mas Llaro Grande Reserve 1998, Cotes du Roussillon
Beautiful stuff and great value. This is a deep, smoky wine with a youthful
purple colour. The nose is distinctly herby and smoky. Quite a clean wine (it's not
bretty), but plenty of secondary complexity. Good concentration, ripe fruit. I don't know
the cepage, but I'd suspect there is a strong Mourvedre component in here as well as some
Grenache. Real interest here. (£4.99, Oddbins) 8/99
Domaine de la Grande Olivette 'La Jasse' 1996 Vin du
Pays Cevennes
Intense purple/black in the glass. Delightful nose of creamy blackberries and
blackcurrants. On the palate, firm tannins, a chalky earthiness and a touch of new oak.
Good concentration, enticing complexity -- this could really use a few more years in the
bottle, but already it is an exciting prospect. Excellent. It is a tragedy that I only
have one left. (Bought a couple of years ago from Oddbins for £6.99) 8/99
James Herrick Chardonnay 1999, Vin de Pays d'Oc
Lovely fresh nose of bright fruit. Ripe and full flavoured with a lovely, full creamy
texture. Despite the roundedness of the palate, this is not at all fat, with the bright
lemony acidity holding everything in balance. With no oak exposure, the depth and
complexity comes from lees stirring. Previously I've been unconvinced by Languedoc
Chardonnays, but this really gives other Chards at this price a good run for their money.
Avoids being technological or synthetic. (£4.99, widely available) 5/00
Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls, Hors
D'Age, Ambre
My first brush with a Banyuls. Orange pink with honeyed nose of sweet
strawberries. Hard to describe the flavours, but combining sherry-like and tawny-port like
flavours with a some orangey, sweet, grapey fruit. Very delicious and a bargain. Much more
interesting than Muscat de Rivesaltes, and a great dessert wine for a bargian price.
(£8.99 Oddbins) 8/99
Les Terres Rouges 1996, Chateau de
Cazeneuve, Coteaux
du Languedoc Pic St Loup
Lighter Cuvee from this quality minded producer. Rich nose and palate of smoky,
barnyardy, earthy red fruit. With no oak and a smooth structure, this is an excellent wine
for the money, showing real regional typicity. (Fullers £4.99) 7/99
Chateau La Voulte Gasparets 1996 Cuvee Reserve,
Corbieres
Attractive cherry red colour. Bretty nose gives way to blackcurrant fruit and
hints of olives and herbs. It is beginning to soften and is beginning to soften nicely.
Good acidity and tannins. This is one of the better Corbieres Ive tried and is
definately a food wine. I think it is really tasty, but avoid if you cant tolerate a
reasonable degree of brett. (46 ff purchased direct) 5/99
Chateau de Cazeneuve Pic St Loup 1996, Grande Cuvee,
Coteaux de Languedoc
Deep purple/back with a smoky, earthy nose. Gushing ripe fruit, vibrant acidity
and firm tannins fuse to make this a very good wine. Another winner from Pic St Loup.
(£6.99 Fullers) 4/99
James Herrick Cuvée Simone 1997, Vin de pays
dOc (Narbonne)
Attractive smoky herb-scented fruit. Medium bodied, this syrah-based wine relies
on the flavour of the grapes rather than oak, and makes an interesting table wine with
plenty of earthy character. (Oddbins £4.99) 2/99
Abbots Cumulus Shiraz 1996, Minervois
Thick, purple colour. When coaxed yields a full nose of bacon fat and stones.
Minerally, chocolatey palate, with rich fruit. Better than Australian Shiraz at this
price. (£4.99 Sainsbury) 2/99
Mas des Costes 1995 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St-Loup
Jeanne Paul Rambier
Wonderful combination of red fruits, minerals and herby/meaty/earthy notes that
typify Pic St-Loup wines. Tannic and concentrated, there is a spicy smokiness that may
have come from some new oak. Very good. (£6.49 Fullers) 2/99
Chateau de Lancyre Vieilles Vignes 1996, Pic St Loup
Another superb, individual and well priced wine from the South of France. 65%
Syrah, 35% Grenache, this has good concentration and is a beautifully stinky, smoky,
brambly red with smoked bacon and blackberry fruit left to run free without the
encumberance of new oak. Bold and characterful, I'm now keen to try their Grand
Cuvee.(Tesco £5.99) 1/99
Château de Lastours Cuvée Simone Descamps 1994,
Corbières AOC
Lovely smoky nose with hints of earth and berry fruits. On the palate,
medium bodied, smooth and nicely balanced, with the structure provided by both the acidity
and tannins, and spicy, herbal red berry fruits. Good authentic stuff, this
Carignan-dominated wine is savoury, oak-free and 'terroir' based. Pretty good. (40 ff,
from domain) 1/00
L'Hospitalène vin de Liqueur, Languedoc
A wine about which I know nothing other than what is on the label (apparently
this is made from fresh grapes and grape spirit). It is soft, red and
spirity, with
licqourice notes -- rather like a young inexpensive port. OK, but a bit simple. 1/00
Le Pigeoulet des Brunier, 1998 Vin de Pays de Vacluse
This is a really super Southern French wine for a knockdown price (around
£6/US$10). Made by the company that produces Vieux Telegraphe and Domaine La Roquette in
Châteauneuf du Pape. It is deep red/purple with a good concentration. Lovely, meaty
stinky nose (but I don't think this is brettanomyces this time, rather I suspect the
grapes: does this have Mourvedre in it?). On the palate, well balanced and
savoury, with
dry tannins. More substantial and serious wine than you would normally expect at this
price. Very good.
Domaine D'Aupilhac 1997, Montpeyroux, Coteaux du
Languedoc
Medium bodied wine of cherry red colour. Big nose of barnyard indicates
some brettanomyces in this old vine Carignan-based wine. Lovely, savoury palate with
moderate tannins and plenty of Southern character. Herby notes, and slighly cheesy edge
make this a great food wine. Good value, too. (£7.95, Justerini and Brooks) 1/00
Viognier 2000, Vignerons Ardechois, Vin de Pays Coteaux de l'Ardeche
This is a nice varietal Viognier that's quite impressive considering the
price. The nicely perfumed nose leads to a very soft, rounded, low acid
palate. There's a bit of peachy fruit and some minerality. Very nicely
textured without being confected. A Condrieu taste-alike? Very good (£4.60
World Marechal) 03/01
Cuvée Prestige Cépage Syrah 1999, Vignerons Ardechois, Vin de Pays
Coteaux de l'Ardeche
A brilliantly chunky wine for the price, this is an inky, angular red
showing admirable concentration and some nice varietal character. Its
solidity means that it's best with food, though. Very good (£3.60 World
Marechal) 3/01
Château Puech-Haut 1998 Saint Drézéry, Coteaux de Languedoc
A modern styled wine from this ambitious Languedoc producer. Nose shows
forward bright fruit and spicy vanilla oak with a creamy edge. Good
concentration and ripe fruit on the palate, with firm tannins and lots of
new oak (contributing spicy vanilla and cinnamon notes). Attractive stuff
but currently the oak is quite dominant. I suspect and hope that it will
integrate much better after a year or two in the bottle. Very good+ (World
Marechal, about £8) 3/01
Chateau Grande Cassagne Blanc 1999, Costières de Nîmes
This was delicious when I first tried it, back in summer 2000, but it
has lost the lovely floral, aromatic freshness since then -- southern French
whites often are best as young as possible. A deep yellow colour, the shy
nose is beginning to show the first signs of oxidation. Nice, fresh palate
with good balance, firm acidity and a crisp character. Two bottles opened
were both very similar. Good/very good (La Vigneronne £6.50) 3/01
Mas Llaro Muscat de Rivesaltes 1998,
Roussillon,
France
From a 75 Ha estate, the grapes were hand picked. Yellow gld colour. Full
nose of table grapes, honey, spice and peaches. On palate, smooth and sweet, with nice
balancing acidity. It is not terribly exciting, but it is a useful dessert wine. As good
as Muscat de Baumes et Venise, but cheaper. Serve well chilled. (£4.99
Oddbins) 1/00
Mas Bruguière 'L'Abouse' Pic St Loup 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc
Lovely, expressive Southern French red with a savoury, meaty nose that's
actually rather Northern-Rhône-like, showing raspberries, blackcurrants and
herbs. The palate is dominated by ripe, meaty fruit, some tannins and nice
balancing acidity. It's a wine that doesn't rely on power, but beguiling
complexity. Very good/excellent (£6.99 Noel Young) 03/01
Maury 1928 Solera (50 cl)
This is a fortified wine made from red grapes (Grenache Gris, Grenache
Noir, Carignan) but aged in a Sherry-like solera style: 600 litre barrels
are used and each year a bit of wine is taken off and replaced with new
wine. The original solera here at the Maury co-op was started in 1928, so
each bottle may contain a few molecules from the 1928 mother wine. It's a
deep red/brown colour with a delicious christmas cake and raisin nose,
together with some caramel notes. The palate is dense and raisined, with
coffee and treacle notes. Complex, sweet and not too sickly; a real treat.
Only 840 bottles in stock, so be quick. Very good/excellent. (£14.99
Majestic) 10/01
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