The wines of Emilio Hidalgo, Sherry, Spain

The wines of Emilio Hidalgo, Jerez/Sherry, Spain
Superb Sherries from this family producer

These are remarkable wines. Complex, beguiling, beautiful. They are all aged at least 15 years (they come from soleras, so accurate dating is impossible – you can only give the average age of the wine), and are produced in relatively small quantities (around 10 000 bottles of each are released each year).

Emilio Hidalgo is a family-owned company established back in 1874. The bodega was started with wines from a family member, and they still have some 1860 and 1861 wines in their cellar. A relatively neutral grape variety, Palomino Fino, is used for the bulk of sherry production, so the complexity and character of the wines comes from the art of blending and guiding the wine through the solera system.

[There’s a potential confusion here: Emilio Hidalgo is not the same company as Hidalgo La Gitana.]

UK agent is Les Caves de Pyrene

Emilio Hidalgo La Panesa Fino NV Jerez, Spain
Wonderfully salty, intense nose with amazing nut and lemon aromatics. The palate is pure and mineral, with nuts, citrus and waxy notes. So pure, complex and intense. 94/100

Emilio Hidalgo Villapanes Oloroso NV Jerez, Spain
Complex, warm spicy nose, with toffee, nuts and orange peel. The palate is intense, concentrated and spicy with nutty notes and a powerful, expressive personality. The finish is eternal. 96/100

Emilio Hidalgo El Tresillo Amontillado Fino NV Jerez, Spain
Yellow/gold colour. Complex, broad nutty nose with citrus peel and almond notes. The palate is warm and concentrated with sweet nuts and a subtle saltiness, leading to a very long finish. 96/100

Emilio Hidalgo 1874 Amontillado Viejo NV Jerez, Spain
This is truly remarkable. Orange/gold in colour, it has an ultra complex nutty, citrus peel nose. There are just so many flavours here: tangy citrus, nuts, cedar, old furniture, exotic spices. It has a lovely creamy texture, too. 97/100