South
African Chardonnay: nine award winners
Nine
wines, one theme -- they've all won an award of one sort or another.
I'm quite a fan of South African Chardonnays in general. They
tend to combine new world depth of flavour with some old world
elegance and restraint. These particular wines were tasted at a Wines
of South Africa event, and while it was a solid line-up, it would be
unfair to suggest that they represent the best examples of this genre.
Notable absentees, which I would expect to do a little better than
most of these here, include Thelema, Hamilton Russell, Rustenberg,
Warwick Estate....the list goes on.
Rock Ridge Chardonnay 2001, Stellenbosch
There’s a modern, crisp, lemony character to this wine, together
with a boiled sweets edge. Modern commercial style. Very good (Marks
& Spencer £4.99)
Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2000, Paarl
Lovely, classy nose displays brilliantly integrated lemony fruit and
nutty oak, with a complex smoky edge. The palate is fresh and bright
with focused, creamy fruit and some complexity. Very good/excellent (£7.99
Unwins, Morrisons)
Fairview Akkerbos Chardonnay 2000, Paarl
Slightly shy creamy, nutty nose. The palate shows restrained nutty
fruit with good acidity. Classy and well balanced. Very good+ (£8.99
Oddbins, Great Western Wines)
Paul Cluver Chardonnay 2000, Elgin (Walker Bay), South Africa
Savoury, tight-knit nose displays lemony, spicy fruit. Minerally
palate has great balance and lovely lemony fruit. Good concentration:
the oak is in the background and it’s fresh in character with good
acidity. Very restrained and quite brilliant. Excellent (£8.99
Christopher Piper Wines, Buy Great Wines, Victor Hugo Wines)
De Wetshof D’Honneur Chardonnay 1999, Robertson
Deep yellow. Quite a full, nutty nose with a complex, evolved
butterscotch character. Rich, full palate is nutty and intense. Quite
evolved (too much so?). Very good+ (£9.99 Welshpool Wine Co)
Longridge Chardonnay 1999, Stellenbosch
Quite a full, nutty, butterscotchy nose with lifted acidity.
Concentrated, full flavoured nutty palate. Savoury, and in a rich
style, but perhaps a little crude round the edges. Very good+ (£8.99
Oddbins, The Wine Society)
Plaisir de Merle Chardonnay 1999, Simondium (Franschoek)
Rich, meaty, bready nutty nose with a rounded creamy edge. Nicely
savoury on the palate with well-integrated but still-prominent oak.
Very good+ (£9.99 Majestic, Safeway)
Siedelberg Chardonnay 1999, Paarl
Expressive nose shows lifted acidity, creamy/ toasty oak and lemony
fruit. Chunky, savoury palate shows good balance. Very good+ (not in
UK)
Slayley Chardonnay 1999, Stellenbosch
Rather sad label (a picture of a ship), but the wine is good. Quite a
deep yellow/gold colour. Creamy, nutty toasty oak dominates the nose
which shows good complexity and a bready edge. Distinctive, powerful
oaky palate is concentrated. Impressive in an old-fashioned style.
Very good/excellent (£8.39 Wrightson & Co)
see
wineanorak's guide to South African
wines
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wines tasted June
2002
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