The
wines of Vadio
A new producer in Portugal's Bairrada region
Website: www.vadio.pt
Luís Patrão (above) is a young winemaker
who works alongside David Bavestock at Herdade de Esporão in the
Alentejo. He also makes his own wines from just
over 3 hectares of family vineyards
in the Bairrada region, under the name Vadio. These are interesting
wines.
There are two
vineyard blocks. The first, Rexarte, is on a west-facing hillside
with sandy loam soils, and here he's planted Encruzado, Arinto and
Verdelho, as well as the more traditional white varieties of the
region, Cercial and Bical. He also bought a 0.5 hectare contiguous
block which has Baga and Cercial, bringing this plot up to 1.3
hectares.
Most of the reds
come from the second block, which is called Barrio. This is on
chalky clay soils, and consists of 0.5 hectares of older Baga vines,
as well as 1.5 hectares planted in 2007 on the Barrio do Forno,
named after the seven limestone kilns that were previously here,
used to make whitewash for painting walls.
The wines are made
in a small winery in a converted warehouse. The notes below are from
three separate tastings, with the date indicated in month/year
format. This is a winery to watch.
THE WINES
Vadio Brut Espumante 2009 Bairrada,
Portugal
80% Bical and 20% Sercial. Herbs and apples, with a bit of baked
apple richness and zippy acidity. Lively and fruity with great
acidity, and quite dry (6 g/litre dosage).
90/100 04/13
Vadio Brut
Espumante NV Bairrada, Portugal
Lively, precise and herby with nice apple notes and great
acidity and freshness. Lovely precision and real personality. 90/100
03/14
Vadia Branco 2013 Bairrada, Portugal
Lovely texture here: some apples, herbs and lemons with lovely
precision and nice taut fruit. Good depth with a stylish finish, and
subtle notes of wax and pith. 92/100 03/14
Vadio Tinto 2009 Bairrada, Portugal
100% Baga. Brooding with sweet, fresh berry and black fruits.
Nice smooth texture here with some chalky minerality. Very fine with
nice structure. 93/100 04/13
Vadio Tinto 2009 Bairrada, Portugal
Supple ripe berry fruits with nice textured and a chalky mineral
edge. Nice precision and freshness: quite serious. 92/100 03/14
Vadio Tinto 2010 Bairrada, Portugal
Fresh, supple and berryish with pure smooth yet precise ripe
berry fruits with some black cherry. Good acidity and supple, chalky
minerality. Lovely weight to this. 94/100 04/13
Vadio Tinto 2011 Bairrada, Portugal
Lovely floral cherry and berry fruits nose with a hint of stewed
plum. The palate is supple and really elegant with lovely
expressive, pure, minerally cherry and plum fruit. 94/100
Vadio Grande Vadio 2010 Bairrada,
Portugal
Supple, sweet and bright with lovely raspberry and black cherry
fruit, as well as some minerality. Just lovely mineral focus with
good weight. So fresh with really fine structure and great
potential. 94/100
Vadio Grande Vadio 2011 Bairrada,
Portugal
Textured, fresh and fine with lovely mineral undercurrent to the
sweet cherry and plum fruit. Nice concentration here, but elegance
and poise too, with lovely structure. Such precision. Tannic and
potentially long lived, but not austere. 95/100
Vadio Tinto 2006 Bairrada
Made in an open fermenter with foot treading, and then aged in
old barrels from Esporão. Supple, fresh and cherryish with good
acidity and some minerality. Really authentic and precise with no
rough edges and beautiful fruit expression. Evolving really nicely.
91/100
03/11
Vadio Branco 2009 Barraida
A blend of Cercial (80%) and Arinto d’Anadia. Supple and
lemony with attractive pure fruit. Crisp and light textured. Really
appealing. 89/100 03/11
See
also:
Visiting
Bairrada
Tasting
notes of Portuguese wines
The
new Douro (series)
Wines
tasted
as indicated
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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