The
wines of Domaines Ott
Route du Fort de Brégançon, F-83250 La Monde Les Maures,
France
Phone: +33 (0)4 94 01 53 53 Fax:
+33 (0)4 94 01 53 54
Website: www.domaines-ott.com
E-mail: domaines.ott@wanadoo.fr
UK agent: Champagne & Chateaux (ph. 0207 498 4488)
Unlike the Languedoc, which now has several dozen top-flight
producers leading a quality revolution, Provence has lagged a bit
behind. Why? Perhaps it’s because of the strong local demand for
easy-drinking rosé, and the relatively low quality expectations this
brings: it’s possible for producers to make a good living here by
making unexceptional wine and peddling it to the affluent tourists.
The one exception is Bandol, which is the most successful Provencale
appellation by a long way, known for its superb Mourvèdre-based reds.
Founded by Marcel Ott at the end of the 19th century,
Domaines Ott is a family owned operation involving three estates, Château
de Selle (Taradeau), Clos Mireille (La Londe Les Maures) and Château
Romassan (La Castellet). These three estates produce an extensive
portfolio of Provencale wines in three colours, and although the
bottle shapes will scare most geeks away (see their website; they
really are very ugly), they are quite serious wines. It’s quite a
large operation, with over 170 ha of vines spread among the three
estates. Quality is solid, but nothing here really turned my head.
Blanc de Blancs Clos Mireille 1999 AOC Côtes de Provence
Clos Mireille has 50 ha of vines, with a mixture of shale and clay
soils, located near the sea. This wine is a blend of Semillon and Ugni
Blanc. Fairly neutral nose leads to a palate with a good concentration
of crisp, lemony, herbal fruit. Nice savoury wine. Very good
Clos Mireille Blanc de Côte 1998, AOC Côtes de Provence
A blend of Semillon and Ugni Blanc. Nice herby, lemony nose.
Lovely lemony palate with a waxy, citrussy character and high-acid
finish. Interesting. Very good
Château de Selle Rosé Couer de Grain 2000 AOC Côtes de
Provence
De Selle is an inland estate with 64 ha of vines on chalky-soiled
hillsides. This rosé is a blend of Cabernet, Grenache, Cinsault and
Syrah. Very pale orange/pink colour. Lots of soft herby flavours here
with a crisp finsh. Attractive for a rosé. Very good
Château de Selle Rouge Longue Garde 1998 AOC Côtes de
Provence
A blend of Cabernet, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Quite a rich,
sweetly fruited nose with a rouch of caramel. Tasty herby palate with
some caramel-edged herby fruit. Not a blockbuster, but nice balance.
Very good+
Château Rotiassan 1999 Bandol
Ott have 60 ha of vines in Bandol, 40 of which are leased. This
wine is mainly Mourvèdre, with Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah too. Good
colour. Southern, slightly herby nose. Chewy, spicy, well balanced
palate. Good intensity, but lacks excitement. May age well. Very good
Rosé Domaniers Puits Mouret 2000 AOC Côtes de Provence
This isn’t an estate wine. It’s a pale, nicely balanced, fresh
rosé. Good/very good
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wines tasted
November 2001
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