wines of Meridiana, Malta
Reviewing the wines from Malta's leading producer
Meridiana is a wine estate in Malta with
18 hectares of vines planted in limestone-rich loamy soils in Taí
Quali. The project began in 1987; until then, almost all Maltese
grapes were made from imported grapes or table grapes, and the
vision here was to produce genuine Maltese wines. The vines were
planted in 1995 and 1996.
This was my first experience of Maltese
wines; these bottles were kindly given to me by a buddy who is
currently working there. The quality is high: while the Cabernet
Sauvignon seems a bit chunky and old fashioned, the Chardonnay is
good and the Syrah particularly impressive.
Meridiana Isis Chardonnay 2010
12% alcohol. Mealy, rich and bready with a hint of malt on the nose.
The palate is broad, quite pure, and nutty with richness, yet itís
still in balance. Just a little short, but good quality. 86/100
Meridiana Bel Syrah 2008
13% alcohol. Savoury, spicy and mineral with taut cherry and
plum fruit backed up by spicy, earthy notes. Surprisingly fresh and
savoury for a warm-climate wine. Nice fresh fruit with interesting
spiy Mediterranean character. Grippy, drying tannins on the finish.
Slightly old fashioned, but delicious, with some Musar-like
Meridiana Celsius Reserve Cabernet
12.5% alcohol. Slightly stinky, savoury, medicinal, gravelly,
mineral nose. The palate is savoury, earthy and spicy, with notes of
blood and tar as well as blackberry fruit. Itís quite firm and
gravelly. An old fashioned savoury style with good concentration and
distinctive, powerful flavours. 84/100
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