Madeira update: 12 more wines tasted

Regular readers will probably be aware of my love for the rather quirky wines of Madeira. Quirky is probably an unkind word to use: what I mean is that Madeira wines are very different - in a class of their own. For those unfamiliar with them, I recommend reading my introduction to Madeira; here I'm adding notes of 12 more wines roughly in order of sweetness.

Henriques & Henriques 10 year old Sercial
Very intense spicy, high-toned lemony nose leads to a rich, caramelly palate that is dry and lemony at the same time as being rich. Good acidity. Nice stuff. Very good+ 89/100

D’Oliveras Sercial 1989 Colheita
Lovely complex lime and orange peel nose with some candied fruits. Very lively and appealing. The palate is complex, rounded and slightly waxy. Smooth with a long nutty finish. Lovely thought-provoking wine with great nutty length. Very good/excellent 93/100

Cossart Gordon Verdelho 1990 Colheita
Treacle and tar notes to the spicy assertive nose. Some freshness too. There is a caramel and spice richness balanced superbly by the assertive acidity on the palate. Delicious long lemony finish. Very good/excellent 91/100

Barbeito Single Harvest 1996
Fresh lemon fruit on the nose. The palate is open and spicy with fresh bright fruit and good acidity. There’s some sweetness. Lovely freshness and great balance. Very good/excellent 91/100

D’Oliveras Verdelho 1981 Colheita
Lovely forward spicy, intense nose, with tarry caramel richness but also lively lemony acidity. The palate is rich and rounded with some sweetness and lovely acidity. Very exciting and spicy with great balance, complexity and length. Medium sweet. Very good/excellent 94/100

Cossart Gordon Bual 1990 Colheita
Rich, raisiny spicy nose with caramel and orange peel complexity. The palate is rounded, sweet and very rich, with sweet caramelly fruit and raisins, backed up by lovely fresh acidity. Good balance and length. Quite open. Very good/excellent 92/100

Henriques & Henriques 10 year old Bual
Quite a deep colour. Tarry, rich, spicy raisiny nose. The palate is lovely and rich; quite sweet, with open herby, raisiny character and a candied fruit finish. A bold, forward style with lots of appeal and good balance. Sweet. Very good/excellent 90/100

D’Oliveras Boal 1983 Colheita
Deep brown colour. Intense, dark, tarry nose with spicy, raisiny Christmas cake aromas. The palate is lively with high acidity. Deep and tarry with explosive acidity. Bold, with lots of flavours and complexity; sweet, but great balance here. Very good/excellent 93/100

HM Borges Reserve Sweet 5 year old
Ripe, sweet, slightly crude Christmas cake aromas with a treacly edge. The palate is rich, ripe and sweet with lots of raisiny flavours. Very good+ 86/100

Barbeito Malvasia Old Reserve 10 year old
Rounded, sweet nutty nose with a tarry, raisiny edge. The palate is quite open, fresh and fruity with lively acidity and an appealing nutty finish. Smooth and long. Very good/excellent 91/100

Blandys 15 year old Rich Malmsey
Smooth raisiny nose is sweet and full. The palate is open and fruity with raisins and nice fresh acidity. Lots of flavour and good balance: it’s not too sweet because of the balancing acidity. Very good/excellent 90/100

D’Oliveras Malvazia 1987 Colheita
Tarry firm spicy, raisiny nose: rich and appealing with some nice lifted acidity. The palate is really appealing with lovely acidity and sweet raisiny, waxy fruit. Lots of richness but brilliant lemony, candied fruit and waxy complexity too. Very good/excellent 93/100

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