The wines of Mac Forbes, Yarra, Australia

Website: www.macforbes.com

Australian Pinot Noir used to be a bit of a joke: dark, jammy, a bit baked and offering none of the elegance that people revere this superstar variety for. Things are changing, though, and each year I’m pleased to see better and better wines being made from regions such as Mornington Peninsula, the Yarra Valley and Adelaide Hills. Mac Forbes is now making some of Australia’s best Pinot Noir.

Forbes made his name as winemaker with John Middleton at Mount Mary in the Yarra Valley—wines that I’ve admired, and which have stood out from the crowd. He left in 2002 and became winemaker for Southcorp in Europe and did stints in Portugal and Austria before returning to the Yarra to make his own wines.

On his website, Forbes says the following: ‘We are continuing to push the envelope by picking fruit early. This is because we firmly believe that the most vivid, expressive wines are made when the fruit is fresh and crunchy and not overripe. I love making the comparison to another fruit, apples. Just like grapes, I like my apples crisp and fresh, not flowery. And crisp apples have better shelf life. This is due to good acidity which you get with earlier picking. Hence, my wines are fresh when young and will slowly evolve into a complex generous creature over time.’ 

This enlightened approach could help explain why these wines are so good: I reckon they are some of Australia’s most impressive Pinot Noirs, and while they aren’t cheap, they offer value for money. The Chardonnay is pretty smart, too.

UK agent is Clark Foyster, and guide retail prices are given in brackets.

Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Chardonnay 2005 Yarra Valley, Australia
Quite fresh, with a full, complex nose. The palate is smooth and concentrated with nice expressive fruits. Tasty stuff that’s rich but balanced. 90/100 (£11.80)

Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley, Australia
Light coloured. Smooth, sweetly fruited nose of perfumed cherry fruit and some spice. There’s just a hint of ginger. The palate is soft and elegant with rounded, spicy-edged fruit. Complex, full and yet not too rich. 93/100 (£16.40)

Mac Forbes Coldstream Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley, Australia
Wonderful open, spicy nose. It’s complex, warm and rich with just a hint of herby freshness. The palate is soft and spicy with real complexity and elegance. This is utterly delicious. 94/100 (£19.30)

Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley, Australia
Another pale coloured Pinot. There’s some sweet spicy warmth to the nose. The palate is soft, spicy and full, showing real elegance and nice density. Smooth and soft. 93/100

Wines tasted 02/07
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com

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