Established in 1974 by financier Denis Horgan, Leeuwin
Estate is a premium-level Margaret River winery that is famous for
producing what most critics rate as Australia’s leading Chardonnay.
However, while the focus is on the Chardonnay, don't overlook the
brilliant Cabernet Sauvignon. It's classy, restrained and a great
example of the Margaret River style. Two ranges are produced: the Art
series wines are the more expensive, but the Prelude wines are pretty
impressive, although this is technically the second label. Altogether
there are just over 90 ha of vines here and annual production is in
the range of 60 000 cases. Prices
given are those from Domaine Direct, the UK importers.
Art Series Riesling 2001
Attractive, crisp lemony/floral nose is very rounded, with some
citrus notes. Good concentration on the palate with a sherbet-like
edge. Tasty stuff. Very good (£8.87)
Art Series Chardonnay 1999
On the basis of its track record over the last couple of decades
this is widely regarded as Australia’s leading expression of this
grape. Intense, nutty creamy nose is very refined and harmonious. The
concentrated palate shows soft fruit and some savoury complexity. Very
rich, well integrated but prominent oak. Full, ripe and balanced. Very
good/excellent (£27.60)
Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 1996
Deep coloured with a slightly fading rim. Ripe berry and
blackcurrant fruit on the nose with a creamy, mineral edge. The palate
shows ripe berry fruit with some herby, spicy complexity. Quite
restrained and in balance, this is very classy stuff. Noticeably
Western Australian in style with an almost lush, silky texture. Very
good/excellent (£17.62)
Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 1995
There’s a lovely chalky, mineral edge to the expressive nose.
It’s in perfect balance, with lush berry fruit and a lovely, chunky
savouriness on the palate. There’s some tannic structure, minerality,
and the fruit is beginning to fade just a little. Delicious stuff
drinking well now, this is a little more complex than the 1996, but
still restrained. Excellent (£17.62)
Prelude Chardonnay 2000
Lovely herby fruit and a touch of nuttiness on the nose; very
refined. Good concentration and balance on the restrained palate with
some classy oaking evident. Very good/excellent (£11.50)
Prelude Cabernet Merlot 1998
Slightly fading at the rim, with an attractive leafy edge to the
blackcurrant fruit. The palate shows restrained, Bordeaux-like berry
fruit on the palate, with a leafy character. Quite a classy,
mid-weight wine with a savoury finish. Very good+ (£11.50)
UK Importer Domaine Direct (www.domainedirect.co.uk)