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Joseph
Swan: 30 wines, 30 years of this Sonoma pioneer
Joseph Swan Vineyards, 2916 Laguna Road,
Forestville, CA 95436
Rod Berglund's e-mail (proprietor and winemaker): rod@swanwinery.com
Back in 1967 (I remember it well, it was the year of my
birth), Joseph Swan purchased a 13 acre property in Trenton, Sonoma.
At the time this consisted of rolling hills, a few acres of apple
trees, some old Zinfandel vines, a bit of pasture and a 19th century
farmhouse.
 Joe made a few barrels of wine in the cellar of the
house in 1968 and then bonded this cellar the following year as a
commercial winery. He replanted the vineyard and orchard the following
year with what is now known as the Swan clone of Pinot Noir, some
Chardonnay and a bit of Cabernet. The current winery was built in
1974. In 1987 winemaking son-in-law Rod Berglund joined Joe to help
with the harvest, and Ron later on took over the running of the
estate. Previously, Rod had been founding partner and winemaker at La
Crema.
This tasting, presented by Rod Berglund (right), was a
remarkable, once-in-a-lifetime experience to take an in-depth look at
Joseph Swan’s back catalogue, with wines stretching right back to
the very beginning. The Swan philosophy of making wines that first of
all express a sense of place and secondly take their place at the
table definitely works: I was hugely impressed by these wines, which
showed real personality, ageworthiness and quality. This isn’t a
winery that you read a lot about, and the wines don’t fetch cult
prices, but if you want to taste some serious, still affordable
Californian wines, this is a good place to come.
UK agent Richards Walford (www.r-w.co.uk);
wines also available from Raeburn Fine Wines in the UK.
Joseph Swan Trenton Estate Chardonnay 2003
Pronounced, almost exotic nose, very well balanced with rich,
spicy, toasty aromas. There’s a lovely minerality, too. The palate
is rich, seamless and really well defined with a lovely expansive
nutty character. Very good/excellent 94/100
Joseph Swan Estate Chardonnay 2000
Evolved, rich nutty nose, with a sweet mealy character. The palate
is well defined with good acidity under the nutty richness. A lovely
wine that is evolved but not overly so. Very good/excellent 93/100
Joseph Swan Estate Chardonnay 1997
Evolved cararmelly, nutty nose but still showing some freshness.
It’s very expressive: not over the hill or oxidised. The palate is
fresh and has good definition. Evolved in an interesting sort of way.
Very good/excellent 91/100
Joseph Swan Estate Chardonnay 1977
Unfortunately, this isn’t completely clean on the nose. It is
quite evolved and nutt. The palat has a flatness to it, but it’s not
dead, yet, with some fresh acidity and a lemony, nutty character. Very
good+ 86/100
Joseph Swan Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Bright, fresh fruit on the nose, with a minerally edge to the
perfumed red and black fruits. The palate is well balanced with a
slight minerally herbiness to the fruit and good structure. A classic
style. Very good/excellent 90/100
Joseph Swan Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Some ripe tarry richness to the nose, which shows focused red and
black fruits. Fresh, vibrant and nicely fruited palate with good
acidity and super balancer. Very good/excellent 92/100
Joseph Swan Estate Cabernet 1993
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Showing some
evolution, this has an open, perfumed nose with nice fruit and a tarry
edge. The palate is fresh, open and quite herby. Really nice midweight
fruit with a tarry spicy finish and good acid. Very goode/xcellent
92/100
Joseph Swan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1987
A classic nose: minerally, chalky and herby, with slightly leafy
blackcurrant fruit. Evolved and perfumed. The palate is
à point, showing soft, open, nicely minerally fruit. Drinking
perfectly now. Very good/excellent 94/100
Joseph Swan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1978
Quite evolved herby, tarry nose with a sweet, fudgey edge. High
acid palate is just a touch out of balance now but this is a lovely
evolved food wine nearing its end. Very good/excellent 90/100
 Joseph Swan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1976
Fresh, herby, spicy nose with some good ripe fruit still. A big
wine. The palate is full, broad and chalky with a tarry edge to the
assertive fruit. Good acidity. A big wine with a bright future still:
fantastic. Very good/excellent 94/100
Joseph Swan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1974
Warm, rich, open spicy nose with some fruit sweetness. The palate
is vivid with an earthy edge to the spicy, tarry fruit. Good acid. A
nicely balanced wine that’s drinking well. Very good/excellent
93/100
Joseph Swan Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2003
Not very dark in colour. Open sweet herby, expressive nose with a
sweet cherry character. (I’m not too sure about the subtle herbal
edge here.) The palate is concentrated and intense with ripe, sweet,
expressive fruit and a smooth spicy structure. There’s also a hint
of herbal character on the finish. Very good/excellent 93/100
Joseph Swan Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2001
Again, not a dark wine. Very open expressive nose of sweet ripe
cherries with nice definition and a herbal edge. Lovely acidity holds
up the open, sweet edged herbal cherryish fruit. An expressive wine.
Very good/excellent 92/100
Joseph Swan Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2000
Warm, rich, spicy nose has lovely balance and some sweet fruit.
The palate is well defined with great acidity and lovely funky,
slightly herbal character. Delicious. Very good/excellent 92/100
Joseph Swan Estate Pinot Noir 2000
Lovely freshness to the cherryish fruit on the nose: it’s quite
savoury, with a serious edge to it. The palate is spicy and savoury,
with lovely spicy structure. Really fantastic balance and good
acidity: a thought-provoking wine. Very good/excellent 94/100
Joseph Swan Estate Syrah 2001
Quite a deep colour. Slightly shy nose of tight, dark fruits. The
palate is savoury, dark and quite structured. Restrained and
tightwound with good acidity. A lot of potential here. Very
good/excellent 92/100
Joseph Swan Russian River Valley Mourvèdre 1996
Slightly green herby edge to the dark fruits nose, with some smoky
spiciness too. The palate is supple and smooth with some herby fruit
and nice structure. Not too keen on the green edge but a nice wine.
Very good+89/100
Joseph Swan Russian River Valley Mourvèdre 1994
Slightly odd stinky, spicy nose. The palate is chewy and spicy
with midweight red fruits, but is a tiny bit unclean. Not rated.
Joseph Swan Stellwagen Vineyard Zinfandel 2001
Savoury, spicy fruit on the nose. Quite tight. The palate shows
good concentration with a spicy, savoury edge. Nice savoury structure
here and good acid. Very good/excellent 91/100
Joseph Swan Lone Redwood Ranch Zinfandel 2001
Sweet, spicy, caramelly nose which is open and sweet. The palate
is structured and spicy with good acidity. Very fresh with a spicy
finish: a bright, expressive wine. Very good/excellent 92/100
Joseph Swan Zeigler Vineyard Zinfandel 2000
Inviting, open sweet edged spicy nose. Quite bright. The palate is
concentrated with a lovely sweetness to the spicy fruit. Almost
exotic, but the high acid keeps things savoury. A wonderful Zinfandel.
Very good/excellent 93/100
Joseph Swan Stellwagen Vineyard Zinfandel 1998
Very expressive, open, inviting nose of sweet spicy fruit. Still
nicely defined though: fudgey and spicy. The palate is dense with a
lovely spiciness to the rich fruit. Quite tarry, with good acid.
Delicious. Very good/excellent 94/100
Joseph Swan Anniversary Selection Zinfandel 1997
Perfumed, alluring, but well defined spicy red fruits, with a
subtle, undergrowthy edge. The palate is sweet-edged, concentrated and
appealing, with lots of expressive spicy herby fruit. Quite lovely
balance. Very good/excellent 94/100
Joseph Swan 30 year Anniversary Zinfandel 1996
Open, sweet, slightly fudgey spicy ripe fruit on the nose. The
palate is savoury, spicy and chunky with nice density and quite firm
structure. Lovely. Very good/excellent 92/100
Joseph Swan Laguna Ridge Vineyard 1995
Open sweet tea/herbal spicy, savoury nose. The palate is spicy and
herby with some evolution, and a tea-like undergrowthy edge. Great
acidity. Expressive and unusual; perhaps on a downslope. Very
good/excellent 92/100
Joseph Swan Laguna Ridge Vineyard 1993
Sweet, open, evolved nose: herby and quite exotic. The palate is
open and savoury with an expressive, evolved character. Drink up. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Joseph Swan Frati Ridge Zinfandel 1993
Quite a tight spicy nose with sweet-edged fruit. Open herb-tinged
fruit on the palate, with a lovely spicy edge. Great balance. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Joseph Swan Frati Ridge Zinfandel 1991
Open and evolved with a sweet spicy, earthy character. The palate
is balanced with a herby edge, tight acidity and lots of interest.
Still quite tight. Very good/excellent 90/100
Joseph Swan Porter-Bass Zinfandel 1991
Perfumed, savoury, spicy nose gives a restrained introduction into
some caramelly, evolved notes. The palate is spicy and smooth with
good acidity and nice balance. A bit herby. Drink up soon. A good food
wine. Very good/excellent 90/100
Joseph Swan Sonoma Coast Zinfandel 1986
Very evolved, earthy spicy nose. Savoury, spicy old wine palate.
Just hanging on. Very good+ 86/00
Joseph Swan Sonoma Zinfandel 1981
Open, herby, spicy nose with some sweet fruit. Evolved, earthy
palate is quite expressive. Still alive. Very good+ 88/100
Joseph Swan Sonoma Zinfandel Lot #1 1969
Deep coloured. Sweet fudgey, slightly funky nose. The palate is
evolved and quite ripe with bright, savoury cherry fruit and nice
freshness. Drinking well, but just a little funky with age. Very good+
86/100
Wines tasted 05/05
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