The wines of Fattoria San Lorenzo, Ancona, Italy
Remarkable Verdicchios and perfumed reds from Italy's Marche

From Ancona in Italy’s Marche, come these remarkable wines. Natalino Crognaletti (above) runs this long-established family business and looks after some 35 hectares of vines, both owned and rented, in the communes of  Montecarotto, Ostra, Ostra Vetere and Corinaldo. Vineyards are worked biodynamically and organically, and winemaking is minimal intervention with lots of time on yeast lees for the whites.

These wines are thrillingly good. I was especially taken by the hauntingly perfumed Vigna Paradiso, but the main reason to come here is for the single-vineyard Verdicchios, with the Marche Bianco showing real character and poise.

UK agent is Les Caves de Pyrene

San Lorenzo Verdiccion dei Castelli de Jesi ‘Gino’ 2012 Marche, Italy
Complex, lively and nutty with pear and apple fruit. Textured, rich but expressive with a lovely mineral finish. 89/100

San Lorenzo Verdicchio dei Castelli de Jesi Superiore ‘Vigna delle Oche’ 2010 Marche, Italy
Really distinctive textured pear fruit with lovely richness and some nutty notes. Long mineral finish. 91/100

San Lorenzo Verdicchio dei Castelli de Jesi Classico Riserva ‘Vigna delle Oche’ 2008 Marche, Italy
Deep colour. Complex nutty, appley nose with some waxy, herby notes. The palate is bold, rich and powerful, appley and intense, and has a rich texture with some waxy notes. 93/100

San Lorenzo Marche Bianco 2002 Marche, Italy
Yellow colour. Lovely complex, savoury, taut, nutty palate. Real complexity here. Smooth but edgy with notes of pear, peach, wax and herbs. 93/100

San Lorenzo Marche Bianco 1998 Marche, Italy
Full yellow colour. Lovely complex nutty, matchstick edge to the rich textured pear fruit. Dense, lively, mineral and fresh, with lots of complexity. Brilliant wine. 95/100

San Lorenzo Rosso Conero ‘Artu’ 2007 Marche, Italy
Ripe, full and fresh with nice texture, and a grippy, mineral finish to the smooth black fruits. Showing a bit of savoury evolution. 90/100

San Lorenzo Lacrima di Morra d’Alba ‘Vigna Paradiso’ 2007 Marche, Italy
Very deep colour. Wonderful perfumed, aromatic nose of floral (violet) cherry fruit. The palate is fruity, pure and expressive showing black cherries, blackberry, spice, mineral and some tar. Enthralling. 95/100

San Lorenzo Montepulciano ‘Vigneto delle Solleone’ 2005 Marche, Italy
Faded colour. Minty, nutty edge to the cherry fruit nose. The palate has an earthy, mineral quality with faded but smooth textured fruit. 91/100

See also:

Visiting Chianti Classico (series)
Josko Gravner and his wines

Wines tasted 05/12  
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