The
wines of Somló, a special terroir
A tasting of 33 wines from the remarkable Hungarian region of Somló
Somló (pronounced ‘shomlo’) is a
special wine region in Hungary. It’s a volcanic hill, sticking out
of the northwestern Hungarian plane, 431 metres high. It was
originally a sea bed volcano, and the basalt cap has resisted
erosion, while the surrounding land hasn’t, so the hill of Somló
stands proud.
There are 830 hectares of vines in this
small appellation, on the slopes of the hill. The basalt soils here
are unique, and give a distinctive character to the wines. As well
as basalt, the lower reaches of the hill have soils that are more
loamy/alluvial.
This was a chance to taste an extensive
line up (33 wines) from Somló, to get an idea of what this
remarkable, almost exclusively white wine region is all about. I
really enjoyed the wines, and this is definitely a region that I
will be keeping an eye out for in the future. It’s one of the
world’s great wine growing terroirs, in my opinion, and deserves
better recognition.
Juhfark
There are only 100 hectares of Juhfark in
the world, and 80 of these are in Somló. It’s a very high acid
variety, and is the most distinctive expression of Somló.
Royal Somló Juhfark 2009 Somló,
Hungary
Wonderfully exotic nose of pear, peach, spice and apricot. The
palate is fresh, dry and nutty with citrus fruit and some mineral
notes. Lively finish is so long. Dry with spiciness. 93/100
Szabo Juhfark 2004 Somló, Hungary
Traditionally made in large oak casks, and aged for at least 18
months in cask. Complex, waxy, nutty nose with pear, peach and
minerals. The palate is nutty and developed with fresh, complex
pear, almond and spice characters. 92/100
Bálint Pince Juhfark 2009 Somló, Hungary
Taut, fine, citrussy nose. Palate is refined, nutty and mineral.
Quite textured with waxy notes and lovely depth of flavour.
Persistent spicy finish. 91/100
Istvan Matyas Juhfark 2007 Somló,
Hungary
Very old fashioned packaging, but the wine is great. Wonderfully
expressive nose of minerals, spice and peach. The palate is waxy,
stony and mineral with citrus, apricots and spice. Great acidity,
texture and concentration. 93/100
Csordá-Fodor Juhfark 2011 Somló,
Hungary
Taut, reductive, mineral nose. Lively fresh palate with citrus
and pear fruit. Very bright, fresh and acidic, with lively
minerality. 90/100
Bela Fekete Juhfark 2009 Somló,
Hungary
Taut, waxy and nutty. Quite mineral. Bright with good acidity
and notes of apples, pear and minerals. A lovely expressive wine.
91/100
Kolonics Juhfark 2011 Somló, Hungary
Tight, fresh and lemony with nice pear and apricot richness, but
the main theme is pure, mineral fruit. Lovely texture and precision.
93/100
Barcza Bálint Juhfark 2011 Somló,
Hungary
Tight, lively, mineral and fresh with herbs, wax and nuts.
Bright pithy lemony finish. 89/100
Tornai Juhfark (premium range) 2011
Somló, Hungary
One of the largest producers in the appellation, this has half
new oak. Rich, full and bold with toasty, nutty character. Nice
depth of flavour with some texture. Noticeable oak, but stylish
despite it. 91/100
Royal Somló Juhfark 2011 Somló,
Hungary
A very fresh style. Minerally citrus and pear fruit. Textured
but bright, with good acidity and lovely mouthfeel with some
spiciness. 92/100
Kreinbacher Juhfark (second label)
2011 Somló, Hungary
Another of the larger producers in the appellation. Nutty and
fine; fresh and precise. Some apple and pear notes, as well as pithy
citrus fruit. 89/100
Tornai Juhfark (second label) Somló,
Hungary
Taut, pithy and waxy with some herby notes. Nice texture and
precision with lovely weight. Fresh with some minerals. 90/100
Furmint
The famous grape of Tokaj does very well
indeed in Somló.
Szabo Furmint 2011 Somló, Hungary
Lively, nutty and precise with fresh , minerally fruit. Very dry
and spicy with amazing length. 92/100
Bálint Pince Furmint 2009 Somló, Hungary
Precise nutty nose leads to a palate that is intense and lively
with some waxy notes. Lovely depth of flavour here, with peach, pear
and spice notes. A brilliant wine. 93/100
Bela Fekete Furmint 2006 Somló,
Hungary
Very richly aromatic with apricot, pear and wax notes, as well
as spice and honey. Just beautiful. The palate is lively and intense
with notes of citrus and minerals, as well as apricot richness and
some spiciness. Brilliantly textured. 94/100
Somlói Apátsági Furmint 2011 Somló,
Hungary
Rich, bold and textured with sweet pear and peach as well as
some lovely richness, and a hint of sweetness. Bold, pure and
deliciously spicy and rounded. 92/100
Kreinbacher '1 Somlo' Furmint 2011
Somló, Hungary
Second label of Kreinbacher. Tight and nutty with some citrus
and pear notes. Textured and fresh with good acidity and hints of
herbs. 88/100
Hárslevelű
This is a great variety, and it does
really well here.
Bela Fekete Hárslevelű 2008 Somló,
Hungary
Taut citrus fruit. Open, pure, quite waxy and a bit nutty.
Lively and mineral, this is bone dry with some complexity. 92/100
Somlói Apátsági Hárslevelű 2011 Somló,
Hungary
Lovely bright lemony nose is fine and fresh. Off-dry palate with
sweet, vivid, spicy melony fruit as well as some appley notes. Zippy
and mineral. 92/100
Tornai Hárslevelű 2011 Somló,
Hungary
Half fermented in new oak. Richly textured, bold and rounded
with lovely sweet oak influence meshing well with the bold, nutty,
rounded fruit. Very modern and fine. 93/100
Kolonics Hárslevelű 2011 Somló,
Hungary
Aromatic and fine. Floral with lovely mineral, wax and lanolin
notes on the palate. Stylish, taut and textured. 91/100
Szabo Hárslevelű 2009 Somló,
Hungary
Appley, oxidative nose. Notes of apple pie. Textured but a bit
too oxidative. 85/100
Olaszrizling
Also known as Welschriesling, this
isn’t highly regarded as a grape variety, but in Hungary it can be
pretty good.
Kreinbacher St Hona Olaszrizling 2011
Somló, Hungary
Nutty, waxy and a bit spicy with notes of pear and apricot.
Lively and quite mineral with nice presence. 90/100
Polgar Matyasfalvi Olaszrizling 2009
Somló, Hungary
Lovely aromatics of apricot, spice and ripe apples. The palate
is off-dry with sweet melon and apricot fruit, as well as
some pear. Long finish. Stylish and rich. 93/100
Istvan Mtyas Olaszrizling 2002 Somló,
Hungary
Complex nose shows wax, nuts, apricots, spice and a hint of
mushroom. The palate is dry with nuts, spice and nicely textured
fruit. Nicely mature. 92/100
Kolonics Olaszrizling 2010 Somló,
Hungary
Waxy, nutty, citrus nose with some pear and herbs. Fresh, vivid
palate with lovely precision and purity, showing citrus fruit and
hints of apricot. Amazing precision here. 93/100
Bálint Pince 2009 Olaszrizling Somló,
Hungary
Fresh, pure citrus, pear, apple and spice nose. Good precision
with nice acidity and some mineral notes. 90/100
Bela Fekete Olaszrizling 2007 Somló,
Hungary
Lively and precise with amazing acidity. Very mineral and bone
dry with intense citrus fruit and a pronounced spiciness. Subtle
nutty undercurrents and a long finish. 93/100
Blends
Vándor 2011 Somló, Hungary
Textured and lively with great acidity and minerally citrus
fruits. Amazing mineral dimension here with great intensity. Complex
and broad. 93/100
Zsirai 2009 Somló, Hungary
Complex, waxy, nutty nose with some creamy notes. Rounded and
ripe on the palate with ripe apple notes and a soft texture.
Unusual. 88/100
Kreinbacher Somló Cuvee 2009 Somló,
Hungary
Very fresh, nutty and lively with precise lemony fruit. Fresh,
dry and quite mineral with subtle nuttiness. 89/100
Polgar Matyasfalvar Réka Cuvée 2009
Somló, Hungary
Lively with some sweetness. Lovely open pear, apple and herb
notes. Soft texture with good acidity. Lively and mineral. 90/100
Kreinbacher Palakos Erjestesu NV Somló,
Hungary
Lovely intense, mineral, spicy nose of apricots and pears.
Zippy, powerful palate with amazing rich, fruity flavours. Powerful
and bold. 90/100
See
also:
The
wines of Bela Fekete, Somlo, Hungary
Wines
tasted 03/13
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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