Giving
people what they want…or what’s best for them?
One of the tensions at the heart of modern society is
the choice by those who provide a service (and we’re talking in the
broadest terms here) between giving people what they want versus
giving them what they need, or what is best for them. The latter
position sounds horribly outmoded and patrician, but before we dismiss
it altogether, let’s look at some examples, and then apply this
thinking to wine.
First of all, education. Here’s a clear example where
things have got a bit screwy because the desires of the ‘consumer’
have been placed first. You end up with a system that strives to
entertain rather than inform, and loads of graduates in Media Studies
and few in the difficult but useful subjects that aren’t so
glamorous.
Then there’s the curse of news as entertainment. Give
the people the stories they want to read. Keep them entertained. The
idea that stories should be ranked by
importance—‘newsworthiness’—seems outmoded: in the age of
internet-based news sites it’s relatively easy to see what people
are clicking on and the sorts of themes likely to appeal. We get fed a
diet of celebrities and titillation. It’s what we want. But is it
best for us? We get fed on a diet of fast food information; it’s no
wonder our brains, and judgement, are out of shape.
What about politics? A trend in recent years has been
policy by opinion poll. Test two or three ideas on a representative
population sample and then opt for the most popular. You’re giving
the people the policies they want – a sure fire way of staying in
office. But it’s a bit disturbing to see governments behave in such
a rudderless and cynical manner: the idea behind a parliamentary
democracy is that we elect MPs who then set about the serious business
of running the country. Giving us what opinion polls say we want
isn’t the best way of doing this.
So we turn to wine. One of the successes of the new
world wine countries is that they have offered us wines we like to
drink. This is to be welcomed. Certainly, I remember the general
standard of supermarket wine in the early 1990s without a great deal
of fondness. Fifteen years later prices haven’t risen much (which
means a reduction in real terms) and the wines are much more
consistent.
But the danger lurking round the corner is that if
people are given what they want to drink all the time, and what they
want is slightly sweet, smooth, overtly fruity wine without any edges,
they’ll never learn to appreciate more complex and intellectually
engaging bottles. Is that such a bad thing? It is if it leads to the extinction
of more complex, individual and (dare I say it) more natural wine
styles, or a loss of wine diversity.
The truth is, you need to learn
how to appreciate fine wine; this necessitates serving people more
challenging wines that they don’t immediately like. It means giving
them something that’s best for them rather than something that they
want. It’s like encouraging your kids to try some proper French food
rather than sticking with a hamburger and fries. Patrician and old
fashioned? Perhaps. But that doesn’t automatically make it wrong.
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