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The
wines of Jean-François Ganevat
Serious wines from France's Jura region
Based
in the hamlet of La
Combe, Jean-François is making some incredible Jura wines from
recently-certified (Demeter) biodynamic vineyards. In 1998 he
returned to the family domaine after a period spent working in
Burgundy, with Jean-Marc Morey. These wines are naturally made, with
the reds receiving no sulfur dioxide additions, and the whites only
a tiny amount. These are true terroir wines, and they are thrilling
– especially the remarkable Savagnin. Not tasted here is a very
well regarded Pinot Noir.
Jean-François
Ganevat Savagnin Cuvée Prestige 2004
This is a multifaceted chameleon of a wine, and I really like
it. It has a remarkably lively salty, minerally, tangy nose that's
complex and sherried, but very fresh. The palate is lemony, herby,
tangy and intense. So
fresh and bright with some appley, nutty depth. Warm, long, rich
finish. 95/100
Jean-François
Ganevat Chardonnay 'Grusse en Billat' 2007
Fresh, pure, taut and intense with some herby, lemony notes.
Fresh and minerally. Real power and purity here with good acidity.
92/100
Jean-François
Ganevat Trousseau Plein Sud 2008
Subtly spicy cherry fruit nose. The palate is fresh and quite
elegant with nice acidity and lovely tannins. Light and cherryish,
but structured. 91/100
Jean-François
Ganevat Poulsard Vieilles Vignes 'L'Enfant Terrible' 2008
Orange/red colour. Sweet, warm, spicy nose with some roasted
notes. The palate is fresh and pure with some cherry fruit backed up
by complex minerally notes and high acidity. An elegant wine. 92/100
UK agent: Les Caves de Pyrene
Wines tasted: 04/10
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
Older report,
from May 2007:
The
Jura is one of those wine regions I can’t help but be drawn to.
The mountain scenery; the fact that the wines are a bit different;
the unfashionable nature of some of the wine styles; the sense of
place the wines possess – all these factors contribute to its
appeal.
Domaine
Ganevat is one of the leading producers. They have 85 year old vines
and are in conversion to biodynamics. The wines are great, and they
are affordable. The labels have a sort of minimalist, old fashioned
chic. What more could you want?
These
wines are available in the UK from Les Caves de Pyrene (www.lescaves.co.uk)
Domaine
Ganevat Trousseau 2004 Côtes du Jura
A
very supple, bright style of red wine. Fresh bright cherry and berry
fruit nose with a bit of greenness. The palate is elegant with some
fruit sweetness and a bit of tannic structure. 90/100
Domaine
Ganevat Pinot Noir 2004 Côtes du Jura
Light
coloured. Smooth, bright fruit here with a hint of greenness and
some cherry and red berry fruit. Light and expressive; a really
attractive Pinot. 89/100
Domaine Ganevat Chardonnay Grands Teppes 2002 Côtes du Jura
Rich, full bold nose is ripe, sweet, nutty and spicy. The palate
is sweetly fruited with a lovely spicy, minerally character. Long,
complex and lovely. 92/100
Domaine
Ganevat Chardonnay Florine 2004 Côtes du Jura
Fresh,
bright and full on the nose. The palate is nutty and fresh with
pure, rounded fruit that has a lemony edge. Long, complex finish.
90/100
Wines
tasted 05/07
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